Vero 29 gen 7 efficiency
- Thread starter KonopCh
- Start date
Bpeace
Well-Known Member
I have a question along these lines, I myself just bought 8 Vero SE29 C 3000k 90 CRI (found them over at the TASTY LED going out of business sale for 15 couldn't pass that up!) Now choosing a driver? The Vero spec sheet only give numbers for nominal current 1710, which gives amazing numbers, should I run it that high or the 1400 or 1050mA lots of people use. Any suggestions?
CobKits
Well-Known Member
you dont need IR. 90 cri has plenty.
UV LEDs arent ready for prime time. id just roll with the cobs for now if you need UV add a reptile bulb or agromax and use sparingly
dont forget the ELG need 240V to get full output
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
Nice answer after 6 months. Thanks anyway.
What driver would you use for this?I have Vero29 gen7 "30E10K0C726QK05600121652" According to the QR code.
I got them from jerry en he said is the Type C SE Version 3000K.
What is the difference between the SE version and the normal one? Can be CRI?
I need to know the efficiency of this COB at 1400mA, who helps me please.
I plan to run 2 of these COB at 1400mA, as timber does, to make the 400W whit 4 of them.
Is the wiring in serial or parallel?
Rahz
Well-Known Member
It takes a large sink to cool at 1.71 amps. Some people run them at 1400 using 150-160mm round pin fin sinks or the 125mm square pin fin. I found 1050ma on the 150mm sinks to provide temps well below max, and efficiency is over 50% at that current.
But it just depends on what size space you're using them in and how intense you want the light to be in that space. If you were lighting a 4x4 with 8 of them I would suggest using a 1050ma current. PPFD would be around 950 and output efficiency over 50%.
Bpeace
Well-Known Member
Thanks Rahz I am planning a 4 x 4 tent and have 8 150mm splayed fin heat sinks, also from the tastyled fire sale, so 1050 it is. This is my first indoor setup, and its in a pool house where heat and humidity will be an issue in the summer (live in southeast US) even with the 5000btu ac I just installed, so I need to manage the heat properly. Thanks again for your help Can't wait to get this going but this Christmas holiday family duties is really slowing me down
klx
Well-Known Member
1050 is good but if you get 1400 you can add a dimmer and have best of both worlds. Just sayin. I have 1400 drivers and love having the ability to crank em to about 95W each in winter. Those 150mm sinks will be fine to run them passively in winter, no problems at all. I run mine at 1400 in winter on 140 x 80mm sinks and its just fine. Warm to touch but not hot. The drivers get hotter. In summer I just dim them.
Use the heat and humidity to your advantage. Search for a VPD chart and you will see that when you have 30C temps, it is actually beneficial to have your space humid af, like 70% or so. Save yourself some money on power and your plants will love it. Just keep up the air flow to avoid mould and you are good to go!
Good luck!
Bpeace
Well-Known Member
That looks awesome, any brand or supplier you like in particular? Possibly a link? I already have 8 150 mm splayed fin heatsinks,do you think it would be better to go with these instead or wait until the next build to crank up the watts to use these? I have a 12 x 12 space but planned on using multiple tents (in the future) for veg and flower spaces ?Would definitely help me in the summer, since I am setting up in an out building. Thanks for the helpone each
ANC
Well-Known Member
Just hit ebay or amazon for the cheapest 4 pipe heatsink. We printed clips to grip the cobs to the bottom. I think it should be easy to drill and tap two M3 holes on each side use a 2.5mm drill and M3 tap and pull the COBS tight with a strip of aluminium.
the heatsinks come with a little separate plastic base you can screw into your fixture and then the heatsink just clips onto it.
the heatsinks come with a little separate plastic base you can screw into your fixture and then the heatsink just clips onto it.