Venting and Grow Room efficiency ( get your Ducts in a row)

Discussion in 'Subcool's Old School Organics' started by subcool, Feb 15, 2008.

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  1.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    People that haven’t been trained simply don’t understand Air and Cooling so I am going to attempt to help out.
    First some things I see commonly done wrong by growers.

    A window unit goes into a window. It is not designed to be ducted with cardboard or vented into a garage. These things work marginally at high temps and without proper air flow all they do is use energy. I was at a grow this weekend that’s improperly vented and the power bill is 600 where it should be 300. That’s 3600 a year wasted that could go to making it work properly there fore saving money every year.

    That will pay for a mini split that uses ½ the electricity as a window unit.

    Think Green in your grow room!

    Moving Air is a lot cheaper than chilling it so if your hoods are hot then your venting system sucks. You should be able to hold your hands on your hoods and glass and not have to move them. If they are generating heat then your now paying to Chill the room and that cost a lot more.

    A 1200 CFM vortex uses like 1 amp a 10,000 btu ac uses like 8

    Air is a Fluid! Think of it as water. Everyone go look at there venting flex if water was running through it would it cavitate and restrict and all those bends without elbo’s? So does air you just cant see it. Air has friction and just like any fluid just less but its still a huge factor in venting.

    Lets look at the proper way to vent a closed system.



    Lets explore


    WE want to install a hard pipe system as our main trunk line this will prevent friction flex is used only as short connecting tubes.

    Ok I cut a 8" Dryer Vent in and tore off the flapper and cover.

    We then attach a 8" elbo and a 7 foot section of pipe to go from down low to up high.


    At the top of the cieling below the plate we come through with the 8" duct using an elbo 8"

    As this duct passes through MzJill's hydro room we chop in a 4" hole to provide fresh air for her hood. Being close to the intake it will get lots of good clean fresh air and stay cool even with the smaller duct.

    Attached Files:

    daydrops, bossman88188, vh13 and 2 others like this.
  2.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    We now enter the main bud room with the 8" pipe all joints are sealed and taped as were using co2.



    Using a factory 8x6x6 Wye fitting I terminate the fresh air intake feeding each hood with a very short piece of 6" flex but I use elbos at the fittings to reduce friction and turbulence.

    I properly vented movable hood using 6" flex and an elbo and a long sweep. No short hard turns to restrict air flow.


    The new hood straight through these hoods are cool to the touch.

    Attached Files:

  3.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    This side of the trunk is powered by a 1200 cfm Vortex tied in with 10" hard pipe and elbos. It feeds a 12" phat filter mounted in the attic above this room.

    You can see the new hood tieing in up high with no restrictions.

    Now you can see a few connections on the exhaust trunk one goes over head to a vent that pulls any dank smelling air out of the common room and through the filter.

    Another 6" tap travels into the veg room to vent the 1000 MH hood notice I used hard rigid flex to reduce friction I am a good ways from the main trunk at the end of the run its always good to go big on the last run.

    Attached Files:

  4.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    Finally Jills new hood tied in but without elbos I will pick some up in the morning.

    Dont cut corners venting you rooms it will cost you on your power bill. Multiply energy waste by 12 thats what it cost you per year.

    Dont try and convert a 125$ window unit into something it wasn't designed for.

    I hope this helps guys.

    Sub

    Attached Files:

    SupraSPL likes this.
  5.  
    squishdoggydog

    squishdoggydog Well-Known Member

    I have a decent intake and venting scheme, but damn. You need to get your ass to my house and get to fuckin' work!!!:mrgreen: I take it your in the HVAC trade?
  6.  
    LoudBlunts

    LoudBlunts Well-Known Member

    subcool.... what if im trying to give my plants plenty of fresh air.... and i decided to run some ducting to my plants under the canopy while poking holes to deliver the air to the canopy...


    if i did that....would it be okay to have a higher cfm fan for my intake? since it will be loosing alot of pressure?

    or would that still be bad because regardless the exhaust will still pull air thru those ducts under the canopy if you understand my question?
  7.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    Before I answer how would you filter this air of pest and spores??

    What is the source of the air?

    Sub
  8.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    Yeah I am third generation HVAC good call

    Sub
  9.  
    squishdoggydog

    squishdoggydog Well-Known Member

    it shows. that's some quality work you have.
  10.  
    LoudBlunts

    LoudBlunts Well-Known Member


    i have a hepa air filter on my intake. source of air? um air? it comes from the outside, but not like you would think. it still lingers in the room...... but i put a window fan in the window to create air exhanges in the room. that is independant from the cab's ventilation as i dont want to be exhausting and intaking the same air...so i thought the window fan would work

    i grow in a cab. about 71.5" h 59" w and 20" d

    the cab is broken down into different areas. i have supreme ventilation (so i think) but i want to increase the airflow to make sure there wont be any possibility of mold due to the fact that im sog'n and place anywhere from 8-16 small single cola plants in a 40" x 20" space (flower chamber).

    i have a 6" exhaust fan in the flowering room. the exhaust and the scrubber also hooks to the mother and daughter chamber.

    i want to get a bigger fan (my intake is currently a 4") and possibly route more air under the canopy.... will my bigger intake create smell problems and other problems for my exhaust fan?
  11.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member


    I dig it and I think you will be ok but I am not a cab expert by no means.
  12.  
    LoudBlunts

    LoudBlunts Well-Known Member

    lol....okay well let me get your hvac expertise...lol picture it outside the cab

    http://www.rollitup.org/539343-post3.html

    this is something like what im talking about.


    would the fan on the intake being bigger have a bad effect on the exhaust?

    or you do think i should ALWAYS have a bigger, more powerful exhaust than my intake?
  13.  
    CALIGROWN

    CALIGROWN **4*****:****2*******0***

    I hate to ask you questions since so many people blow you up....But just wanted to see what you think about using an inline fan to draw air from the room, through the hood and out of the room? In stead of running air from outside of the room, through the hood, and then back outside the room.....I have 1 fan pulling air through the hood from the other end of the hood...Im adding a second light and Im going to run both lights off the same fan using a y splitter and hooking up a 6 inch booster fan at the exit of the y splitter.....so 2 lights, 2 pieces of 6 inch ducting, 1 for each light, a y splitter that connects the 2 6 inch to 1 6 inch, a 6 inch booster fan hooked to the y splitter, then hooked to my fan...do you recommend sucking the air out of the room through the hoods?
  14.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    If you do not pull cool outside air the temps will rise dramatically and you will have lots of problems UNLESS you have a huge A/C and that would cost more than doing it properly.

    So fresh air into the hoods and hot air out through fan into a filter.



    Sub
    Picasso345 likes this.
  15.  
    LoudBlunts

    LoudBlunts Well-Known Member


    i wonder how big his fan is on the pvc pipes...
  16.  
    Lacy

    Lacy New Member

    Yes I have to agree that this is awesome and thank you so very much.:mrgreen:
    I don't understand it all but hubby is good with this kinda stuff.:blsmoke:

    Thanks so much for this thread.

    Repeated rep forever!!!!!!!!!:clap:

  17.  
    UserFriendly

    UserFriendly New Member

    Great thread Subcool. Very practical knowledge you're laying down. RIU is lucky to have you. On that note................

    Do you ever have issues with all the heat going through that one fan? Also, is there any way to make sure that the air flows evenly through all the hoods. I am wondering if the hoods on the shortest circuit would get most of the air, leaving the hood in the farthest reaches (the veg room in Jills case) to heat up.

    Is it a bad idea to run 2k+ in series? I would just hate to have 1 side of a y-splitter get more air than the other; would pushing vs. pulling affect the ability of the splitter to evenly vent both hoods? Hmmmm, that last one seems oddly worded; you know what i mean?
  18.  
    subcool

    subcool Well-Known Member

    You cant run the heat of one bulb across another one and yes its important to do this correctly so static or back pressure is the same. This is done my using ducts the same size and legth so back pressure remains constant.

    Sub
    10mm fan boy likes this.
  19.  
    UserFriendly

    UserFriendly New Member

    Ah...hell yeah! :mrgreen: Thanks Subcool. Big ups to you my friend. K+
    I have to spread some rep around before giving you more. :peace:
  20.  
    UserFriendly

    UserFriendly New Member

    Yo Sub. I need a source for 8" flanges, vents, and ducts to keep my system tight. Lowes, Home Depot, and Google searches are all crapping out. Do you know where I can source these without a business number?
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