Veg (T5) to Flower (HPS) - How to avoid transplant shock?

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Doc50holliday

Member
Hey guys,

So my girl and I both had the same issue a few harvests back in regards to transplanting from the veg room to the flower room.

It seems like the change from t5's to 1000W Gavitas was just too much, and hurt the crop fairly bad.

Now, I feel my girl is over compensating and slowly raising the wattage week by week, maxing out at 750 Watts for only the last week and a half of flower.

My intuition is telling me that we're missing out on significant growth if we're slowly raising the wattage like that.. I mean we're probably at 500 watts 6 weeks into flower and then maxing out at 750 in the final weeks...

Thoughts?
 
B

Bookush34

Well-Known Member
Need more light in veg I think. So they don’t get light shocked when you hit them with the 1000s.
How far away are you Gavitas?
 
Wattzzup

Wattzzup

Well-Known Member
Doc50holliday said:
Hey guys,

So my girl and I both had the same issue a few harvests back in regards to transplanting from the veg room to the flower room.

It seems like the change from t5's to 1000W Gavitas was just too much, and hurt the crop fairly bad.

Now, I feel my girl is over compensating and slowly raising the wattage week by week, maxing out at 750 Watts for only the last week and a half of flower.

My intuition is telling me that we're missing out on significant growth if we're slowly raising the wattage like that.. I mean we're probably at 500 watts 6 weeks into flower and then maxing out at 750 in the final weeks...

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
This happens when I switch from my MH to my HPS. I start my HPS higher than my goal. So if my goal is 20”. I may start at 32” and every couple of days slide it down a little. Watch your plant and you will see when to stop.

I just saw you’re using 1000w. Maybe start at like 40” for a week and then start working your way down.
 
J

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
photoacclimation is a thing... i remember i think fluence has a cananbis cultivation guide with ppfd reccomendations for light increasing. but i push a lot harder than they reccomend.

im of the mind they acclimate to spetrum aswell. so i run 1 light the whole time. vegging w some blue light makes some sence in theory but knowing what we know now about light efficiency and the amount cannabis can handel t5s should be switched out immediatly after the clone phase. my meter has t5s pushing 300ppfd from 1 inch away from the lights... way too low to veg under... if u got blue spec leds then go w the blue spec but if u have to choose between T5s for the blue spec or HPS for the eficency... choose the HID every time

if were talking yield... light (photons) is the driving factor. all things being eqiul a decrease in light will equal a decrease in yield. dont do this

my advice would be... if u can keep the canopy a specific distance from the light... lets say 3 ft above canopy at all times. veg under ur HPS at 50% for 2 weeks... then 75% 2 weeks.. then up to 100 for the rest..

the other option is set the hps at 100% and use distance from canopy to adjust the amoiunt of light they are getting. for instance if im running a HLG 550 lets say from 1 ft away ur going to be at like 1000ppfd... from 2ft away ur going to be at 750ppfd.. at 3 ft 500ppfd... its essentialy saying from ur plants perspective theres no differnce between HPS 1000w at 3 ft away and HPS at 500w from 1 ft away... its about how many photons get to the leaf... not how many watts come from the wall.. so using distance from canopy can work also

but in general just give them more light in veg

attached i posted a graph from fluences cannabis cultivation guide i mentioed above (not my favorite just saying)

the graph details the daily light integral... that is the sum of the light the plants recieved durring the course of the day... as you can see in the graph there is a large drop in the middle... this is the jump from 18 hours to 12 hours veg to flower... its basically as if they run their lights up to say 750w durring veg. then flip to flower and maintan that 750w... the drop in the sum of the lights is based on the new 12 hours interval as opposed to the previous 18 hours... hope this helps GL
 

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D

Doc50holliday

Member
JonCreighton said:
photoacclimation is a thing... i remember i think fluence has a cananbis cultivation guide with ppfd reccomendations for light increasing. but i push a lot harder than they reccomend.

im of the mind they acclimate to spetrum aswell. so i run 1 light the whole time. vegging w some blue light makes some sence in theory but knowing what we know now about light efficiency and the amount cannabis can handel t5s should be switched out immediatly after the clone phase. my meter has t5s pushing 300ppfd from 1 inch away from the lights... way too low to veg under... if u got blue spec leds then go w the blue spec but if u have to choose between T5s for the blue spec or HPS for the eficency... choose the HID every time

if were talking yield... light (photons) is the driving factor. all things being eqiul a decrease in light will equal a decrease in yield. dont do this

my advice would be... if u can keep the canopy a specific distance from the light... lets say 3 ft above canopy at all times. veg under ur HPS at 50% for 2 weeks... then 75% 2 weeks.. then up to 100 for the rest..

the other option is set the hps at 100% and use distance from canopy to adjust the amoiunt of light they are getting. for instance if im running a HLG 550 lets say from 1 ft away ur going to be at like 1000ppfd... from 2ft away ur going to be at 750ppfd.. at 3 ft 500ppfd... its essentialy saying from ur plants perspective theres no differnce between HPS 1000w at 3 ft away and HPS at 500w from 1 ft away... its about how many photons get to the leaf... not how many watts come from the wall.. so using distance from canopy can work also

but in general just give them more light in veg

attached i posted a graph from fluences cannabis cultivation guide i mentioed above (not my favorite just saying)

the graph details the daily light integral... that is the sum of the light the plants recieved durring the course of the day... as you can see in the graph there is a large drop in the middle... this is the jump from 18 hours to 12 hours veg to flower... its basically as if they run their lights up to say 750w durring veg. then flip to flower and maintan that 750w... the drop in the sum of the lights is based on the new 12 hours interval as opposed to the previous 18 hours... hope this helps GL
Click to expand...
Dude, I've been vigorously looking for a light schedule for a minute.. Thank you so so so much..

This is definitely an area in which we're lacking. Very glad I reached out.
 
S

SpaceJesus

Member
JonCreighton said:
iv been trying to figure this one below out for months... this guys all over the place... if u got any theories lemme know..
Click to expand...
Well it looks to me like they dropped the intensity of the lights as well as the interval. They go from 47 down to 25 DLI which is daily light interval a measure of ppfd and time. It would be 31.3 if only accounting for the duration of lighting. So they drop the lights 6.1DLI when going 12/12 and then slowly ramp em back up in intensity through flower.
Did that provide and insight?
 
J

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
SpaceJesus said:
Well it looks to me like they dropped the intensity of the lights as well as the interval. They go from 47 down to 25 DLI which is daily light interval a measure of ppfd and time. It would be 31.3 if only accounting for the duration of lighting. So they drop the lights 6.1DLI when going 12/12 and then slowly ramp em back up in intensity through flower.
Did that provide and insight?
Click to expand...
there is a reduction in light between like weeks 5-6 in flower. why would this be done?

also a reduction in light after about week 7... this one makes a little more sence

the question is why is he bouncing around his DLI in flower.... the fluence chart is steadily increasing DLI (logical) this graph is not.

it comes from ana rticle titled something like "what to know about lighting from a former greenhouse cannabis cultivar"... but the article doesnt explain the ups and down not related to photoperiod
 
J

JonCreighton

Well-Known Member
oill said:
Where did they start?... they should be about 1.5 meters away
Click to expand...
i would think that 4 ft is too far for most applications

in ambient co2 ur looking for DLI around to over 40... u want a roughly 1000ppfd. in the graph attached below you can see some testing fo a 1000w HPS in a 4x4 area... this is a par report but it will highlight the point

the graph onb the left shows a 1000w hps from 18" away from canopy.... the graph on the left shows the scores from 24" away. you can see how the light drops off significantly from just a 6" difference. like i said above photons (light) is what directly drives yield. its not a linear graph its more of a bell curve but the difference between the grpah on the left and the graph on the right would be significant in terms of yield. from the perspecive of a plant... 1000w hps from 4 ft away is no diffrent than 1000w HPS running at 50% from 1-2 ft away.

in ambient co2 u want to be pushing 1000ppfd.
if co2 enriched u can go up to 1500ppfd..

this graph is probbale a decent representation of all 1000hps... i would work off their numbers if u dont have a meter.

these are the numbers we should be targeting. theres plently of papers out there from bruce bugbee from utah state if u want to look into it more... hes the guy.... GL
 

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