VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
use a relay or a relay controlled outlet to turn the fixture on/off on schedule info is on the on/off meanwell thread
UV led?. should I or just add more cob?
- Thread starter HolyGhost23
- Start date
knight mare
Well-Known Member
I think you will also find,with adding uv that the terpines will express better like an outdoor grown plant.
linky
Well-Known Member
How many bulbs per sqf of canopy?
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
I can't say who gets it right or wrong only that uvb is sunburn and a narrow band of uva is great for development of thc without burning plants. Another color spectrum useful is the IR or infrared range as well hard to keep up with who said what I am just offering up what I have gathered together
MadButcher
Well-Known Member
And it's much appreciated by all those interested
I read up on the reptisun 10.0 lightbulb. It emits 10% uvb and 30% uva. So I'll give that a try
Think you misunderstood what i asked or i may be misunderstanding your response... i already have a relay & arduino to turn my cobs on and FULLY off without a timer because HLG line is 1-10v not 0-10v like the ELG drivers. A t5 fixture i would want to add with just a 2-prong plug doesnt have a driver to connect to the arduino to control its on/off time to only 15mins on every hour, which is totally a different timing cycle my lights at 12/12 would be on. So waiting for it to shut off via the relay when its time for the WHOLE fixture to turn off is not what i want. It will need to be on its own time schedule... trying to accomplish this independent time schedule without having to use another external timer and not having to wait for the relay shutting off the whole fixture to shut off the UV T5's. isnt the relay just because the driver cant dim down to 0? ...
Los Reefersaurus
Well-Known Member
call your local electron shop and ask for the latest version of the omron h3cr-f8, they don't make the omrons anymore but they have a nice digital replacement that should be better, I have a bunch on order. I would give you a part number and a link but my local guy gets his stuff out the back door and has only store numbers and not part numbers to discourage guys from shopping around. But the omron lead is all you really need. It is an on off timer you can adjust the on and the off times, that goes to a 5 amp relay. I got mine feeding off my big light timer that is set to 12 12, I set mine to 11 hours off 2 hours on. it stays off for the first 11 hours of day then comes on with what ever is left of the day
mauricem00
Well-Known Member
UV leds have an efficiency of 7% and are very expensive. a UV bulb will give UVA and UVB and is as effiecient as conventional T5s (29%)
@Los Reefersaurus thanks bro!
VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
If you have arduino, which I thought, you can use another relay to control the t5 fixture, or you can get one of these https://www.adafruit.com/products/2935 and plug the pwm signal into the outlet controller and you can control all lights with one outlet. Just setup a cycle timer in your code with cycleon as #define cycleon FALSE 3define MAXTIME 15 cycfletime= oldtime oldtime = rtc.get();, get time, save it to a variable test for period to lapse, when period has lapsed set cycleon toTRUE and it will cycle until you set cycleon to FALSE with a if loop to test for cycleon (IF (cycleon){, Set pwm pin HIGH,add time to cycletime until cycletime = MAXTIME which will turn on pin connected to relay. voila cycle timer every cycle. set a variable for the cycletime = 15minutes or whatever you decide, and when cycletime = 0, tests for cycleon = true and you have a cycle time routine. If you need a more formal one let me know and I will look and wsee if I can find my cycle timer code, but it works just like I described here.
HolyGhost23
Well-Known Member
op here. ive made my choice as to what im going to try. the results from not having vs having a t5 actinic with a 10K.. is fairly significant. in thc as well as total plant size. i think the actinic bulbs are near uv 415nm and the 10K are a far blue.
the plants seem to reach for the 10K t5s more than my 3000K Cxa's.. as far as the 415nm light. i did see more trics with it. so I think im going to get a t5 ho lamp and a 10% uvb reptile light with a 10K mixed in. ill get a 4 foot and have it 2 feet above everything else. or as a back light.
of course at some point ill add more cobs but ill wait on that for a bit.
the plants seem to reach for the 10K t5s more than my 3000K Cxa's.. as far as the 415nm light. i did see more trics with it. so I think im going to get a t5 ho lamp and a 10% uvb reptile light with a 10K mixed in. ill get a 4 foot and have it 2 feet above everything else. or as a back light.
of course at some point ill add more cobs but ill wait on that for a bit.
MacNugget
Member
ATM I use Osram Oslon SSL 80 @385 nm to start then add UV B later in small increments with reptile CLF on timer the main set up is CLW with side lighting and cxb 3590 3500k.
Cirrus reflex UVB is a diode high cri with UV B and UV A they recommend it is used 15-30 minutes a day.
CMH has the longest CRI and prob best balanced with plenty of UV A they are nearly as good as HPS but more efficient cooler and better cri.
Super HPS Hortilux have UV A but you cannot use glass if you use air cooled hood as glass filters UV A. Cool the room not the light.
Super HPS Hortilux is the king of fat buds but why not mix it with cmh Phillips some cobs some LEDs to target the cri index.
LED is fantastic at targeting spectrum and combined it brings all the best element's.
CMH HPS have digital ballast and could mix with an integrated digital system like a CLW the HID and LED could be interesting mix.
A cmh running at 315w is around the same as a HPS 600w and great UV A and 630-700+ nm range a long cri they run cool and integrate with cobs and LEDs well
The most efficient HPS is a 600w and digital ballast can reduce to 400w or less. They are the default bud king but could integrate with digital systems
With CLW California Light Works you can build up a system with controller UV B option a far red for Emerson effect waterproof and Osram SSL 80 diodes side light supps veg bloom boost. They are the shit. I use em with cxb
Careful with UV B you only need small amounts and gtfo away wear glasses etc. Use it right at the end when you flush or last few days switch LEDs to veg go blue maybe get a 7000k cob or a 10k cmh or mh for finishing to get the frosty flowers but the cri drops heavy to the bottom end with UV B added as well for finishing. Some only add UV B later after growth to get resin frosty etc It will destroy flowers if over used
UV A is not as hazardous and easier to manage plants grown under it are adapted don't burn just don't over do it the cirrus reflex uvb is new but osram have UV B diodes in R and D should drop around 2020
Photon flux from various sources compresses and photonic flux density is focussed into a core. Colas in the dense high par compressed photon flux core with CO2 and cri management are an option
Cirrus reflex UVB is a diode high cri with UV B and UV A they recommend it is used 15-30 minutes a day.
CMH has the longest CRI and prob best balanced with plenty of UV A they are nearly as good as HPS but more efficient cooler and better cri.
Super HPS Hortilux have UV A but you cannot use glass if you use air cooled hood as glass filters UV A. Cool the room not the light.
Super HPS Hortilux is the king of fat buds but why not mix it with cmh Phillips some cobs some LEDs to target the cri index.
LED is fantastic at targeting spectrum and combined it brings all the best element's.
CMH HPS have digital ballast and could mix with an integrated digital system like a CLW the HID and LED could be interesting mix.
A cmh running at 315w is around the same as a HPS 600w and great UV A and 630-700+ nm range a long cri they run cool and integrate with cobs and LEDs well
The most efficient HPS is a 600w and digital ballast can reduce to 400w or less. They are the default bud king but could integrate with digital systems
With CLW California Light Works you can build up a system with controller UV B option a far red for Emerson effect waterproof and Osram SSL 80 diodes side light supps veg bloom boost. They are the shit. I use em with cxb
Careful with UV B you only need small amounts and gtfo away wear glasses etc. Use it right at the end when you flush or last few days switch LEDs to veg go blue maybe get a 7000k cob or a 10k cmh or mh for finishing to get the frosty flowers but the cri drops heavy to the bottom end with UV B added as well for finishing. Some only add UV B later after growth to get resin frosty etc It will destroy flowers if over used
UV A is not as hazardous and easier to manage plants grown under it are adapted don't burn just don't over do it the cirrus reflex uvb is new but osram have UV B diodes in R and D should drop around 2020
Photon flux from various sources compresses and photonic flux density is focussed into a core. Colas in the dense high par compressed photon flux core with CO2 and cri management are an option
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