Ttystikk's vertical goodness

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
good to see u still rockin' the silo TTy. missed your postings elsewhere and followed you here so im enjoying the information once again. I was curious what your regimen is these days. as soon as my posting ct is up ill im you for some details. peace bro!

PnL
Hey don't slip away... how's things going with you?
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
OK so that took me a bit to get through.
BUT DWAMN. lol
I may have missed it, but how long do you give them to veg once you move them to the silo?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
OK so that took me a bit to get through.
BUT DWAMN. lol
I may have missed it, but how long do you give them to veg once you move them to the silo?
Used to give them two weeks. Today's update is that we are trashing the veg in trellis plan in favor of bigger plants coming from a bigger veg area, and the bloom room is always in bloom. This requires a much larger veg, but it's worth it.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
Have you thought about simplifiying the veg room, that seems like a lot of pots to be jumping around too. ie: more work lol.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
ahh so it was the pic that made it seem complicated. lol
I really like how you utilize so much of the heat waste.
Have you considered insulating the buckets to make the cooling process more efficient?
Also with the water heat, if you were to run say the same size line from your big rez to the top of the control bucket with a ball/flow valve in between, could you then pump back to the rez over the controller?
And maybe you are, ill admit i didnt read every post, i did skim between pages 7-14 lol.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty lost about the water heat and ball valve thing.

Currently, the only way I can reuse my waste heat is by running my chiller in the office and using the same room as the whole house fresh air intake. This way, cold (8.3f right now!) air comes in, absorbs the heat being rejected from the chiller and then goes down the hallway and then downstairs, heating the rest of my house along the way.

The compressorless chiller is a big time money saving device but I can't use it to bring waste heat anywhere as the cooling system water runs at about 50f, give or take. As such it would be fine for keeping a garage from freezing or an enclosed patio a bit warmer than outdoors.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
My RDWC system doesn't really have a separate reservoir, it's just large capacity due to the number of big tubs involved.

The control bucket actually pulls water from the tubs via gravity feed- they all sit on the ground at the same level- and that water passes across a cooling coil in the control bucket before being pumped into a manifold. That manifold delivers chilled nutrient water to a fitting in the lid of every tubsite, thus aerating and mixing the water right at the plant's roots.
 

m4s73r

Well-Known Member
I'm pretty lost about the water heat and ball valve thing.

Currently, the only way I can reuse my waste heat is by running my chiller in the office and using the same room as the whole house fresh air intake. This way, cold (8.3f right now!) air comes in, absorbs the heat being rejected from the chiller and then goes down the hallway and then downstairs, heating the rest of my house along the way.

The compressorless chiller is a big time money saving device but I can't use it to bring waste heat anywhere as the cooling system water runs at about 50f, give or take. As such it would be fine for keeping a garage from freezing or an enclosed patio a bit warmer than outdoors.
Ok so i just read more into it then i should have. lol

I was talking about adding the rez into the water circulation by using the pump to T off and pump part back to the rez and the rez slowly replacing the water in the controller. Think of it like a water lung. 55 gallons of water + the water in the system, would take a lot longer to heat up. If you also insulated each of the grow sites and water lines, less heat from the room warming the water.
less need for water cooling.

I have been really inspired by what you got going on. Where as i like hempy, the mess of it (perlite) makes me want to change. I am also not impressed with the veg growth in my hempys. A lot of lag time getting clones going.

I am basing the following on the need for a chiller due to the room heat slowly heating the water.
If you were able to isolate all the water from the grow room itself, would the chiller still be needed if your ambient room was 68-70ish.
Thinking i could build the buckets under a table then cut 3 holes in the table top for the net pots. Place a grow tent on top of the table. Keeping the buckets themselves out of the room. Buddy of mine did something similar but with a drain table. He said that the water was never in the room long enough for water temp to be a concern.

Based on my time table, i should be out there around july. With a nov, jan, mar, harvets ill let the sweet sweet cold mountain night air be my chiller.

I will not be taking my current op with me in the move. I have been commissioned with shrinking it down for 2 people before i go. (mom and stepdad) So i have to teach mom how to do all this between now and then.

Straight Perlite Hempy/flora nova bloom. 6 site aerocloner. Ph test kit. Mom has no green thumb. lol
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Simplicity is more complicated than it looks sometimes.

I think the new veg room will speed things up to the point where we can pull six crops a year in the bloom room, instead of the four and a half with the current plan. That pays for the increased veg space right there.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I know a lot of people looking through this thread will wonder why all the emphasis on staging and phases, but those who run dispensary operations know they live or die by those schedules.

I'm building a system so productive it will become the new standard. It will drive flatlander grows out of business, except for the occasional boutique op.

It's not arrogance, it's engineering and economics; if you can grow more weed in less space with less power and less manhours- and maintain top quality- then you'd be silly not to. After all, my next sales call will be to their competitor... and they won't say no.
 

NugHunter

Well-Known Member
I know a lot of people looking through this thread will wonder why all the emphasis on staging and phases, but those who run dispensary operations know they live or die by those schedules.

I'm building a system so productive it will become the new standard. It will drive flatlander grows out of business, except for the occasional boutique op.

It's not arrogance, it's engineering and economics; if you can grow more weed in less space with less power and less manhours- and maintain top quality- then you'd be silly not to. After all, my next sales call will be to their competitor... and they won't say no.
I think you have a great system that has the potential to be huge in todays market. Why approach anyone..why not just manufacture and distribute them yourself? Hit me up if you would like to chat more about it.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
...and things are gradually dissolving into routine, and we can start looking at the bits and pieces left over, because the big picture is getting dialed in.

Bigger room is easier to control, once adequate capacity is in place. Now I can separate the jobs of cooling and dehuey and keep the overall levels more stable.

I have given up on maintaining high RH for now; since I don't have the dependable cooling capacity I can't risk losing control to the high side and thus I can't risk sealing the room. Soooo, I save money on CO², lol
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
The big change this cycle was a call down to Hydrogardens to track down the cause of mysterious nutrient issues. The upshot of the conversation was that their salts are meant to be mixed into a stock solution, or liquid concentrate in a large batch first, BEFORE meting out the small amounts needed for individual batches. This is clearly labeled on the bag for agricultural equipment, but since I wasn't using it that way I ignored the whole thing.

It's like this; a twenty five pound bag of nutrient salts, no matter how well mixed, will settle over time, travel and handling. To avoid hitting pockets of high concentrations of whatnot on a random basis, the solution is to put the entire bag into solution all at once. Sooooo, I put all twenty five pounds into fifty five gallons of hot water in a barrel. A few adventures later, I'm all set up to draw one gallon of concentrate per hundred gallons of reservoir capacity.

I'm hopeful- if I'm right then I am about to get a raise!
 

a senile fungus

Well-Known Member
Been waiting for updates, how's it been going?

1419321735934.jpg

1419321749920.jpg


So far so good.

I'm not gonna be able to veg them for as long as I'd hoped, so I put them on buckets to raise them up to my trellis. I'll be flipping to 12/12 soon.

They are all healthy, slight cal and mag issues being sorted out, but I'm new to organics and thus far have only watered them. The two lighter green ones are runts and are being left in the small pots, they can live near the entrance so I'll fit in nicely.

My next run in this tent I'll be able to veg them out to full size like I wanted and fill the tent to the max. This round is more like tester of the lights I guess, which BTW they love.

I've had leaves within 6 inches of the bulb with no ill effect.

Any questions please ask.




You can see here that I have them in two groups, one around each light. I know that once I move the pots to the walls my light intensity will diminish drastically from where it is now and I wonder how that will effect them? They will each be moving about a foot outwards towards the walls of the tent. Let me know what you think about this... They love being close and I'm wondering if being a foot farther away will slow them down or encourage them to speed up and get closer to the light...


Also, I'm honestly having trouble keeping temps up I'm there with these lights running so cool.

It stays 64-70F in that tent constantly. I'm wondering if I need a heat source or another light lol, could those low temps contribute to slow growth? Maybe I'm just not used to soil...
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3318191

View attachment 3318192


So far so good.

I'm not gonna be able to veg them for as long as I'd hoped, so I put them on buckets to raise them up to my trellis. I'll be flipping to 12/12 soon.

They are all healthy, slight cal and mag issues being sorted out, but I'm new to organics and thus far have only watered them. The two lighter green ones are runts and are being left in the small pots, they can live near the entrance so I'll fit in nicely.

My next run in this tent I'll be able to veg them out to full size like I wanted and fill the tent to the max. This round is more like tester of the lights I guess, which BTW they love.

I've had leaves within 6 inches of the bulb with no ill effect.

Any questions please ask.




You can see here that I have them in two groups, one around each light. I know that once I move the pots to the walls my light intensity will diminish drastically from where it is now and I wonder how that will effect them? They will each be moving about a foot outwards towards the walls of the tent. Let me know what you think about this... They love being close and I'm wondering if being a foot farther away will slow them down or encourage them to speed up and get closer to the light...


Also, I'm honestly having trouble keeping temps up I'm there with these lights running so cool.

It stays 64-70F in that tent constantly. I'm wondering if I need a heat source or another light lol, could those low temps contribute to slow growth? Maybe I'm just not used to soil...
What kind of lights?

Seal up any cracks, vents or openings to retain heat.

Maybe you do need a space heater, it happens. Keep your nighttime temps up in the sixties, too.

I think the plants are doing well where they are and I can't speak to their lighting without a better idea of the lamp.
 
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