machinegreenkelly
Well-Known Member
I take no credit for this. Just sharing The Rev's recipe out of Skunk mag.
-Master Soil Mix Recipe-
Base Soil Mix
(All U.S. Dry Volume Measurements)
2 gallons Quality Organic Soil Mix (or good organic, recycled soil mix)
2 gallons Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gallons Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gallons Castings (earthworm castings, or fresh compost works too)
DRY AMENDMENTS
11/2 cup All-Purpose or Bloom (Organic Pure)/ or 1 Cup Happy Frog 5-5-5
1/2 cup Greensand
3/4 cup Ground Oyster Shells
2 cup Crushed Oyster Shells **optional**
1/2 cup Powdered Dolomite Lime
11/4 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast-Acting Dolomite Lime
1/4 cup Blood Meal (and/ or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 NPK, if flowering)
1/4 cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup Un-Steamed (granular) Bone Meal
1/2 cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 is one good NPK example)
1/4 cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
1/2 cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
1/2 cup Kelp Meal
1/2 cup Zeolite (granular) **optional**
1/2 cup Azomite (granular) **optional**
1/2 cup Humate (granular) **optional**
1/2 cup Alfalfa Mea l/ or 1 cup Pellets (make sure pellets are all organic, no additives)
1 cup Rock Phosphate Granular **optional**
1 cup Organic Rice
This mix should be moistened (but do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine/chloramine-free water and turned over every few days for about 10-14 days before use. This is what I call "cooking" your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before is fine. The nutrients don't evaporate or anything, so no worries there. If this turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demand. If you do use a soil mix that is fairly moist, be extra careful not to compact it all when transplanting, as fairly moist soil mix will become over compacted really easily and that's never good for a living soil mix.
-Master Soil Mix Recipe-
Base Soil Mix
(All U.S. Dry Volume Measurements)
2 gallons Quality Organic Soil Mix (or good organic, recycled soil mix)
2 gallons Coir (coconut fiber)
2 gallons Perlite (small nugget size)
2 gallons Castings (earthworm castings, or fresh compost works too)
DRY AMENDMENTS
11/2 cup All-Purpose or Bloom (Organic Pure)/ or 1 Cup Happy Frog 5-5-5
1/2 cup Greensand
3/4 cup Ground Oyster Shells
2 cup Crushed Oyster Shells **optional**
1/2 cup Powdered Dolomite Lime
11/4 cup Prilled (pelletized) Fast-Acting Dolomite Lime
1/4 cup Blood Meal (and/ or High N Bird/Bat Guano 12-8-2 NPK, if flowering)
1/4 cup (heaping) Feather Meal
1 cup Un-Steamed (granular) Bone Meal
1/2 cup Bulb Food (3-8-8 is one good NPK example)
1/4 cup Soft Rock Phosphate (powdered)
1/2 cup (heaping) Gypsum (powdered)
1/2 cup Kelp Meal
1/2 cup Zeolite (granular) **optional**
1/2 cup Azomite (granular) **optional**
1/2 cup Humate (granular) **optional**
1/2 cup Alfalfa Mea l/ or 1 cup Pellets (make sure pellets are all organic, no additives)
1 cup Rock Phosphate Granular **optional**
1 cup Organic Rice
This mix should be moistened (but do not get it soaking wet!) with chlorine/chloramine-free water and turned over every few days for about 10-14 days before use. This is what I call "cooking" your soil, and letting it get pretty dry before is fine. The nutrients don't evaporate or anything, so no worries there. If this turns out to be too hot (powerful) for some reason, just cut it with good bagged organic soil until you get the strength your environment and genetics demand. If you do use a soil mix that is fairly moist, be extra careful not to compact it all when transplanting, as fairly moist soil mix will become over compacted really easily and that's never good for a living soil mix.
