The aeroponic vegetator, increase your yield/year now!

Tone5500

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3380261

BUMP!

Been a while dude, any progress, got anything to show/share?


Could it be that simple... If I were to put fabric pots in tubes/trays it would get soaked for sure but the flow of nutrient solution would largely go around it, take the route of least resistance. A steel mesh cup would work but seems a little pricey for so many holes.
When I first seen this when he posted this I could think of a few way fabric pits was one or induvdle tubing 4" with cap and own sprayer but it all sounds like a lot I found that just pulling roots apart has become my standard but I only house at most 16 plants to a tote at a time
 

hondagrower420

Well-Known Member
He has a solo cup in there look at the roots. Looks just like it was in a solo cup. Thats how he "invented" this. Prolly cut the bottom out and just pressed up against the tray.
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
What you're saying is totally legit bro! A 3-step grow process is by far the best way to pull off a perpetual harvest. Nine weeks is perfect, 3-weeks cloner, 3-weeks veg then 9-weeks flower. With 3 separate flower systems you could harvest every three weeks.

You're right about keeping the plants separate during veg, it makes it easy to transfer them to the rails. Did you know you could actually flower them in the same system? The plants would need more room but what works for veg, works for flower.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
I've always wanted to build something similar using 6"-8" dia pvc cut to around 12"-16" long or so stood on end..something like this:

But make each "pod" modular,with spray nozzles going in the sides, with a cap and net pot on one end, and a cap and drain on the other that could be plugged into an existing irrigation system. >side thought, i need to find my design program so i can draw up this stuff< Disconnect the spray feed lines, pop it out of the drain fitting, plug it into the next systems drain fitting and hook up the spray feed lines. You could easily make a single 5 gal bucket that a pod would plug into..or a 100 site aero..and it would all interchange and be modular. Only issue I see is a high cost for materials, but I think it would be worth the versatility.
 

Alaric

Well-Known Member
insidetube.JPG vegxx.jpg panelsopen.jpg
This:

Roots getting entangled is an issue for me because I want to grow more plants and be able to select out more of them. From reg seed, so remove males and the lesser females. The roots getting entangled by the time they are sexed, requires me to sex regular seed before moving them to my tubes setup.
Sup S,

Tangled roots in hydro "containers" -----especially running large plants (3'+ in veg) led me to the tube panels design------for easy root access, plant portability, and tube cleanup.

kills my soul to buy weed,

A~~~
 
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Alaric

Well-Known Member
I like the design, what medium are the plants supported in, rockwool, just net pots, etc??
Rockwool, hydroton, net pots------OH MY!

Too lazy for that stuff.

The naked roots sit in the 6" tubes------mediumless aero always----except for vermiculite cups for starting seed.

The plants are supported by the trellis attached to each tube (that 1/2" conduit running parallel to the tube.

A~~~plroot.jpg
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
When I first seen this when he posted this I could think of a few way fabric pits was one or induvdle tubing 4" with cap and own sprayer but it all sounds like a lot I found that just pulling roots apart has become my standard but I only house at most 16 plants to a tote at a time
I considered something like that with interconnecting pvc T pieces. I need to move back from 36 (or 30) plants in/during veg, till sexing at least, to roughly 20-24 and then eventually to 9 or 12. Has to be mediumless, and the 9-12 plants need to have sufficient root space as if I vegged and flowered only those from the start.

I noticed I can pull the roots apart with 3 plants in a 3+ feet tube but barely, so not going to work with 5-6 plants in the same tube.

I've always wanted to build something similar using 6"-8" dia pvc cut to around 12"-16" long or so stood on end..something like this:

But make each "pod" modular,with spray nozzles going in the sides, with a cap and net pot on one end, and a cap and drain on the other that could be plugged into an existing irrigation system. >side thought, i need to find my design program so i can draw up this stuff< Disconnect the spray feed lines, pop it out of the drain fitting, plug it into the next systems drain fitting and hook up the spray feed lines. You could easily make a single 5 gal bucket that a pod would plug into..or a 100 site aero..and it would all interchange and be modular. Only issue I see is a high cost for materials, but I think it would be worth the versatility.
Nice. That's somewhat similar to what I had in mind with the pvc T pieces but more elegant. (although the return end going upwards wouldn't work. Single res and modular is what's important. And then indeed an issue is high material cost, although I don't mind investing hundreds of dollars in PVC as long as I use it for a while.
 

WeedFreak78

Well-Known Member
I considered something like that with interconnecting pvc T pieces. I need to move back from 36 (or 30) plants in/during veg, till sexing at least, to roughly 20-24 and then eventually to 9 or 12. Has to be mediumless, and the 9-12 plants need to have sufficient root space as if I vegged and flowered only those from the start.

I noticed I can pull the roots apart with 3 plants in a 3+ feet tube but barely, so not going to work with 5-6 plants in the same tube.


Nice. That's somewhat similar to what I had in mind with the pvc T pieces but more elegant. (although the return end going upwards wouldn't work. Single res and modular is what's important. And then indeed an issue is high material cost, although I don't mind investing hundreds of dollars in PVC as long as I use it for a while.
I'm pretty sure that's a ebb and flow setup, which is why the drain is like that..i was using the pic for the pods more than anything. The PVC actually wouldn't be the cost..whats a 6" dia, 10' length cost? You'll get what 8-10 pods per length, it's all the fittings, hoses, sprayers..multiples upon multiples of all the little crap that would add up.

Steal my idea..


I tried rotating it..Idk..
 

Alaric

Well-Known Member
I noticed I can pull the roots apart with 3 plants in a 3+ feet tube but barely, so not going to work with 5-6 plants in the same tube.
What dia tubes?

I've found that separating the roots once every week or so (depending on plant size)-----no more grunts pulling them apart (plenty of experience grunting).

course, you need easy access to the entire root zone.

A~~~
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
.The PVC actually wouldn't be the cost..whats a 6" dia, 10' length cost? You'll get what 8-10 pods per length, it's all the fittings, hoses, sprayers..multiples upon multiples of all the little crap that would add up.

Steal my idea..

Yeah I'm including all the connectors and small stuff in the pvc cost. Can order almost everything from the same supplier (Pond supplies wholesaler).

I wouldn't have to steal it because that image is pretty much what I had in mind with the T pieces except for the smaller 'matching hole'. :D That adds up quickly though, especially at 6", and even without the end caps and pods. I can buy pvc cheap as in cheap for me, I don't know how it compares to the US. I also wouldn't be able to fit the initial desired amount of plants in there, maybe 20. For the total cost, I would be better off having a custom HDPE system made. I will need to fire up my "design tool" to show what that looks like*.

upload_2015-3-26_17-43-32.pngupload_2015-3-26_17-43-39.pngupload_2015-3-26_17-44-10.png<screw cap.
Also consider going with my regular tube setup but add more plant sites with each a separate return pipe:
upload_2015-3-26_17-47-12.png

But plumbing 30-36 pipes back into a rez... no.
 
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Sativied

Well-Known Member
View attachment 3380971 View attachment 3380972 View attachment 3380973
Sup S,

Tangled roots in hydro "containers" -----especially running large plants (3'+ in veg) led me to the tube panels design------for easy root access, plant portability, and tube cleanup.

kills my soul to buy weed,

A~~~
Hey A~~~, thanks for chiming in. "Plant portability", that's what I'm talking about. I need to be able to make a selection from 30-36 plants, remove most males and some females, and be able to rearrange the plants while reducing that to 12 (of which 3 are males which have to be removed later too). Yet have the flexibility to keep a few plants more and run 13 or 15.

I've had similar thoughts over the past few days, referring to it as a gutter instead of a tube. I don't see how it keeps the roots apart though, unless I separate and rotate them every day or so. I considered using half closed cylinders (imagine piece of pvc tube but capped, hole drilled in the center of the end caps, then cut in half over the length) of 5" length and diameter same as inside of the gutter. Both ends would be dammed, but with half a circle opening to overflow.

I used 5" so far. Surely 6" would give them some extra space but won't make 'the' difference especially when I place more plants over the same length of tube (nearly 4 feet, currently x 2).

I do like your setup, I do like the easy access. It's been a downside of my setup I overlooked from the start; can't check roots ones they got entirely entangled into a single mass not allowing me to lift plants. Do you still use velcro tape?

Easy root access could be the key though, at least to not spending tons on individual pieces. Easy access allows for more control, which you essentially do manually. I could perhaps add something to it, at least for those initial 4-5 weeks from seed (of which they are in dwc the first 2-3 weeks). So it's only for a few weeks really...

*from wiki hydroponics page. I used the same image before them to show what nasa uses for reflection (that ain't no white paint)
View attachment 3381070

Not exactly what I had in mind, the box would be roughly 3x3 instead and what seems to be the drain in the pic would be the supply, but would have multiple, and then drain at the other end. Similar to OPs setup but without all the supply spaghetti. The inside would have compartments that overflow near the side of the supply line, pushing/flowing the roots in the direction away from where the walls between compartments are low enough to overflow. Simply put, gutters in a box. The gutters hold the roots, the box is recirculated.
 

Alaric

Well-Known Member
I've had similar thoughts over the past few days, referring to it as a gutter instead of a tube. I don't see how it keeps the roots apart though, unless I separate and rotate them every day or so. I considered using half closed cylinders (imagine piece of pvc tube but capped, hole drilled in the center of the end caps, then cut in half over the length) of 5" length and diameter same as inside of the gutter. Both ends would be dammed, but with half a circle opening to overflow.

I used 5" so far. Surely 6" would give them some extra space but won't make 'the' difference especially when I place more plants over the same length of tube (nearly 4 feet, currently x 2).

I do like your setup, I do like the easy access. It's been a downside of my setup I overlooked from the start; can't check roots ones they got entirely entangled into a single mass not allowing me to lift plants. Do you still use velcro tape?

Easy root access could be the key though, at least to not spending tons on individual pieces. Easy access allows for more control, which you essentially do manually. I could perhaps add something to it, at least for those initial 4-5 weeks from seed (of which they are in dwc the first 2-3 weeks). So it's only for a few weeks really...

*from wiki hydroponics page. I used the same image before them to show what nasa uses for reflection (that ain't no white paint)
View attachment 3381070

Not exactly what I had in mind, the box would be roughly 3x3 instead and what seems to be the drain in the pic would be the supply, but would have multiple, and then drain at the other end. Similar to OPs setup but without all the supply spaghetti. The inside would have compartments that overflow near the side of the supply line, pushing/flowing the roots in the direction away from where the walls between compartments are low enough to overflow. Simply put, gutters in a box. The gutters hold the roots, the box is recirculated.
That attachment didn't open:-(.

I've had to move a plant 6 weeks into flowering (one died and moved an end one in its place. Not fun----but successful.

Not every day for root separation-----once a week for 3-4" tall plants. Once moved into flowering-----I don't pay much attention.

Yea, could be called a gutter. Yes--- I like the velcro sewed onto the vinyl panels (1"wide black mating hook&loop)-----what keeps trash out and nutes in. I tap into the bottom for supply and drain lines.

I have a love/hate relationship with pvc schedule 40 tubes:

Love:
rigid, easy to chop up, drill and tap, cheap $50 us for 6"x10'.

Hate:
Wrong aspect ratio!!!!!!!! Wish it could be rectangular instead of round (6" wide x 12-18" deep).

Stay safe,

A~~~
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
That attachment didn't open:-(.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hydroponics on the right, second image from above.

Wrong aspect ratio!!!!!!!! Wish it could be rectangular instead of round (6" wide x 12-18" deep).
I'd already be happy with square, but rectangular, yes that would be nice.

cheap $50 us for 6"x10'.
I get 6"x16' for $30, 5" even cheaper. That's 5 x 3-feet tubes, and although I don't have a budget in mind that would leave plenty for other parts. If I interconnect 4 pvc T pieces to make a single tube it will cost more more 'per' tube on those T pieces alone.

I also like your supply line, I don't want to mess with spaghetti lines anymore. I can't get those ez cloner sprayers here, been a problem for years now, so I pay $1+ per (more advanced, iron ball to prevent clogging) microsprayer. I didn't use the sprayers last hydro round and haven't noticed a difference either. Probably going to flood the tubes again (nft instead of lp aero).

Actually, that last thing is probably part of the issue isn't it... The roots flow into the roots of the next plant instead of just laying there and being sprayed.
 

Alaric

Well-Known Member
I also like your supply line, I don't want to mess with spaghetti lines anymore.
Yes-----I have to pay attention to where I'm stepping on that end.

However; those spaghetti lines allows me the flexibility of spreading the tubes apart for canopy and light maintenance.

If u ever want any of those power cloner sprayers and have a safe addy-----u got em. Have both 180 and 360 degrees spray pattern.

Good point about the floating roots in flooded tubes. I can train/fold the roots in the "gutters".

A~~~
 

Sativied

Well-Known Member
Thanks man, I appreciate the offer. I just checked amazon again to verify and it looks like EZ clone does ship to NL by now, hadn't checked for at least 6 months. 20 cents a piece instead of 110... nice.

With the spaghetti I was referring to the 1/4" tubing I use (and the OP). You have the sprayers attached to a pvc line (1/2"?) on the inside, which I want to do to so I no longer have to mess around with lines on the outside - if I'm going to use sprayers.

Did you also use velcro tape to attach the covers to the tubes or only to each other?
 

Alaric

Well-Known Member
Thanks man, I appreciate the offer. I just checked amazon again to verify and it looks like EZ clone does ship to NL by now, hadn't checked for at least 6 months. 20 cents a piece instead of 110... nice.

With the spaghetti I was referring to the 1/4" tubing I use (and the OP). You have the sprayers attached to a pvc line (1/2"?) on the inside, which I want to do to so I no longer have to mess around with lines on the outside - if I'm going to use sprayers.

Did you also use velcro tape to attach the covers to the tubes or only to each other?
Yes 1/2" schedule 40 pvc (drilled and taped for the sprayers). stay away from that thin wall schedule 20.

Two key parts for the spray line transition:

1) brass fitting 3/4" male water hose to 3/4" male pipe thread, the inside is 1/2" female pipe thread.

2) 1/2" x 6" cobra line with male 1/2" fittings on each end--------this flex line connects from brass fitting to spray line.

The panels are attached to the tube gullies using aluminum L brackets and stainless steel self drilling screws 3/4" long-----not fun----but done once.

A~~~
 

Alaric

Well-Known Member
100_1035.JPG
Yes 1/2" schedule 40 pvc (drilled and taped for the sprayers). stay away from that thin wall schedule 20.

Two key parts for the spray line transition:

1) brass fitting 3/4" male water hose to 3/4" male pipe thread, the inside is 1/2" female pipe thread.

2) 1/2" x 6" cobra line with male 1/2" fittings on each end--------this flex line connects from brass fitting to spray line.

The panels are attached to the tube gullies using aluminum L brackets and stainless steel self drilling screws 3/4" long-----not fun----but done once.

A~~~
This pic might explain better-------having the cobra line in front helps with drain stoppage.
 

StinkBud

Well-Known Member
Hate:
Wrong aspect ratio!!!!!!!! Wish it could be rectangular instead of round (6" wide x 12-18" deep).
A~~~
I'm sure you guys all know about square PVC fence posts right? You can get 5" X 8' fence post for about $25 at Home DePot. Square is stable. Square gives you more cubic space. It's hip to be square.

My first system from 2006 used round PVC pipe and external hoses. Round things like to roll so the pipes all had to be strapped down like a gimp. I'd put on some buttless leather chaps and tie those fucking pipes down and they still gave me some back talk so I beat them. Round is great for shit like wheels though so don't go fuck up your car or anything.

All that hose was a pain in the ass. Even with cable ties the hose fittings would eventually leak. Now granted it was usually just a small drip but left for a couple of days it flooded the whole fucking grow room and then when me and the wife got home she freaks out because there's water on the downstairs living room floor and my grow was upstairs.

The size of the pipe is not as important as the size of the drain. You want the water to drain as quickly as possible. That way the roots can be exposed to as much O2 as possible. Let's not forget that it's not about the nutrients or water, It's all about the O2! Small drains plug up with roots within just a few weeks. Let the water flow bro. Waterfall effect oxygenates the water. Also has a cooling effect just like a swamp cooler. When the roots get so long they are ready to plug up the pump is grab the scissors and RUN into the other room with the points facing my heart. Then I give the roots a root cut. It's like a hair cut but with roots instead.

I really do dig seeing your picks. You guys are really creative! I love seeing all the different approaches. I like Alaric's chains but we won't go there, that's his business not mine. Alarics like "fuck you you pipes, you're not rollin' anywhere!" and fuckin' chained them to the ceiling! I like a man that knows how to handle his pipe! So I have to give the award to Alaric for the hanging idea. Bravo! Or should I say Brovo!

Here's a pick from my tent. Keep'em coming boys!
 
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Alaric

Well-Known Member
I'm sure you guys all know about square PVC fence posts right? You can get 5" X 8' fence post for about $25 at Home DePot. Square is stable. Square gives you more cubic space. It's hip to be square.

My first system from 2006 used round PVC pipe and external hoses. Round things like to roll so the pipes all had to be strapped down like a gimp. I'd put on some buttless leather chaps and tie those fucking pipes down and they still gave me some back talk so I beat them. Round is great for shit like wheels though so don't go fuck up your car or anything.

All that hose was a pain in the ass. Even with cable ties the hose fittings would eventually leak. Now granted it was usually just a small drip but left for a couple of days it flooded the whole fucking grow room and then when me and the wife got home she freaks out because there's water on the downstairs living room floor and my grow was upstairs.

The size of the pipe is not as important as the size of the drain. You want the water to drain as quickly as possible. That way the roots can be exposed to as much O2 as possible. Let's not forget that it's not about the nutrients or water, It's all about the O2! Small drains plug up with roots within just a few weeks. Let the water flow bro. Waterfall effect oxygenates the water. Also has a cooling effect just like a swamp cooler. When the roots get so long they are ready to plug up the pump is grab the scissors and RUN into the other room with the points facing my heart. Then I give the roots a root cut. It's like a hair cut but with roots instead.

I really do dig seeing your picks. You guys are really creative! I love seeing all the different approaches. I like Alaric's chains but we won't go there, that's his business not mine. Alarics like "fuck you you pipes, you're not rollin' anywhere!" and fuckin' chained them to the ceiling! I like a man that knows how to handle his pipe! So I have to give the award to Alaric for the hanging idea. Bravo! Or should I say Brovo!

Here's a pick from my tent. Keep'em coming boys!
High StinkBud?

"I'm sure you guys all know about square PVC fence posts right? You can get 5" X 8' fence post for about $25 at Home DePot. Square is stable. Square gives you more cubic space. It's hip to be square."

Yep----once played around with the post----I liked the "hipness"-----hated the end caps. With the pvc tubes-----very rare to have a leak.

"it flooded the whole fucking grow room and then when me and the wife got home she freaks out because there's water on the downstairs living room floor and my grow was upstairs."

One afternoon I came home to my 3 story townhouse------opened the front door-----saw water gushing down my chandelier. A valve blew out.

"When the roots get so long they are ready to plug up the pump is grab the scissors and RUN into the other room with the points facing my heart. Then I give the roots a root cut. It's like a hair cut but with roots instead."

Agree about small drain holes creating problems----another reason I went with the panels for access. My tube drain ports are 1"-----no problem so far.

The reason I want 6"x18" channels is so the roots can be suspended the full depth of the channel-------making it true aero.

But alas, is true aero more effective than constant circulation or flood&drain, etc.

After my experience with several nute delivery methods------my conclusion is:

Doesn't make much difference-----if any at all. I (think) Sativied has come to the same conclusion.

Do you understand those tube support chains are attached rollers and box rail------so the tubes can be moved apart-----and makes a natural attachment points for the trellis.

You have some happy looking girls----way to go.

Thanks for the award (where do I cash it in)?

A~~~boxrail.jpg
 
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