Super Soil + additional nutes?

In the scenario that i felt like my super soil mix wasn't hot enough or that i didn't use enough, what would the downsides be to using additional organic nutes say BioThrive and Biobud light feeding, during flower?

Would there be benefits?

I also give a microbe tea 1 time a week, consisting only of EWC and blackstrap mollasess.


My main concern is that when i PH the runoff my super soil that's been cooking for over 2 months....The water goes in at 6.2 and comes out at 6.6....So i don't know what "too hot" is, but the growth is pretty slow, in comparison to my buddy's mix in which i have no idea what it exactly consists of, but i would assume its far more potent then mine.

I CAN tell you that mine consists of TGA bagged, NON PREMIX, and i follow the directions exactly.

Thoughts and opinions are greatly appreciated!

Adding more nutrients is OK but watch your amounts. Use organic nutrients only when feeding - same goes for non-organic nutrients don't mix them together, feeding separately will increase your results . There is an early, middle and late stages of flower stage and the nutrients mentioned need to be feed at different times in flower

do a more effective , simplified soil mix. Super soil recipe is very redundant.

make sure 30% of your mix is vermicompost

Step 1.
Take all those nasty amendments and throw them out and replace them.

Step 2.
Simplify.

The Cec in subs mix is very minimal. Get some minerals in your soil and you should see some nice growth rates.

Also, don't worry about ph, that's child's play.

Although i really truly do appreciate the tips and comments about super soil, nothing irritates me more then someone telling me to "stop" something without explaining why? Whats in super soil that isn't useful? Why? I guess the explanations i am looking for are just far to complex to ask or something, but this is something i really wish i knew.

How do i simplify? Can i get better results with a different mix? Obviously i am all for that. Even though i have 2 barrels full of SS, i will use the remainder of it. I am just too new to the scene so saying "Get some minerals in your soil" could mean a great bit of things to me lol.

Is there another method that is proven to pull ahead?

Here is whats in the premixed SS that i got. It requires you to mix with EWC and reg soil obviously.

Derived From:
Fish Bone Meal, Blood Meal, Bat Guano, Alfalfa Meal, Oyster Shell, Magnesium Sulfate, Calcium Carbonate, Volcanic Ash, Langbeinite and Kelp Meal

Also Contains Non-Plant Food Ingredients:
Endomycorrhizal fungi: Glomus intraradices, G. mosseae, G. aggregatum, G. etunicatum – 1.5 prop/gm each, Ectomycorrhizal fungi: Rhizopogon villosullus, R. luteolus, R. amylopogon, R. fulvigleba – 550 prop/gm each; Pisolithus tinctorius – 5,000 prop/gm; Scleroderma cepa, S. citrinum – 450 prop/gm each, Trichoderma: Trichoderma harzianum, T. konigii – 8,500 cfu/gm each

Beneficial Bacteria: Bacillus subtilis, B. licheniformis, B. azotoformans, B. megaterium, B. coagulans, B. pumulis, B. thuringiensis, Paenibacillus polymyxa, P. durum, Azotobacter vinelandii, A. chroococcum, Streptomyces griseuses, S. lydicus, Pseudomonas aureofaceans, P. fluorescence – 20,000 CFU/gm each

I guess i just really like the idea of putting a plant in soil, and letting it reach for everything it needs to achieve its maximum potential. It seems like this mix kind of lacks that though....But at the same time i am not experiencing a whole lot of problems, and i am getting about 4-5 OZ per plant of some VERY frosty, tasty, sweet tasting buds that i JUST DON'T GET locally!!!

I'm not stubborn though, and i CAN risk experiments, though i have a bunch of money wrapped into SS, i am totally willing to try new things if it nets a gain over my current method!!

Are you using mycos? Oreganism xl great white or something? Didn't see that posted. Towards the end of my super soil grows I feed a few times if they fad early. Do you use co2 ? Did you buy a charge pack online ?

Super soil with only water and humbolt honey and Oregonisum xl. Co2 at 1800 ppm under 1000 watt hoods. Temp constant 67.

cootz soil recipe adjusted

peatmoss, pumice, vermicompost, coco

crab shell meal, neem seed meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, oyster shell flour , rock dust.

day 23 9lb hammer




no till living soil.

super soil is redundant. Way too much npk. Has alot of nutes that do the same thing.

I started with super soil years ago. But I still recycled my soil and that was before I new about rols no till gardening. I get better results and better flavor and better quality flowers and more / better icewax than I did with super soil

SJ KOrganic said:

Although i really truly do appreciate the tips and comments about super soil, nothing irritates me more then someone telling me to "stop" something without explaining why? Whats in super soil that isn't useful? Why? I guess the explanations i am looking for are just far to complex to ask or something, but this is something i really wish i knew.

How do i simplify? Can i get better results with a different mix? Obviously i am all for that. Even though i have 2 barrels full of SS, i will use the remainder of it. I am just too new to the scene so saying "Get some minerals in your soil" could mean a great bit of things to me lol.

Is there another method that is proven to pull ahead?
.

Click to expand...

Here, I will tell you my thoughts on the supersoil mix, and my reasons behind it.
First, it's assembled with bovine slaughterhouse products, the blood meal is insanely water soluble, and the NPK is a lil weak (15-1-1 or 15-0-0)
the bat guano is the same, although a lil less soluble but still.
the bone meal can KILL you. lookup CFE or madcow disease, another case was reported in Canada a lil while ago.
I'd go with neem meal, kelp meal, crab meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal instead.
I also sorta like the slow release of feather meal, especially if you grow outside or have nitrogen loving sativas.
the main drawback for the supersoil is all the soluble nutrients, it's impossible to control where they go and when.
I also think that layering your soil is sorta a stupid idea as well, but that's another topic

hyroot said:

cootz soil recipe adjusted

peatmoss, pumice, vermicompost, coco

crab shell meal, neem seed meal, kelp meal, alfalfa meal, oyster shell flour , rock dust.

day 23 9lb hammer

View attachment 3378487


no till living soil.

super soil is redundant. Way too much npk. Has alot of nutes that do the same thing.

I started with super soil years ago. But I still recycled my soil and that was before I new about rols no till gardening. I get better results and better flavor and better quality flowers and more / better icewax than I did with super soil

Click to expand...

I am all for ease of access. Is this the stuff? http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit

Is Coots recipe meant to be used as a whole. Example - If you are planting in a 5 gallon pot, it would ALL be coots soil, or would it be partial, like Super SOIL, half Coots, half base soil?

greasemonkeymann said:

Here, I will tell you my thoughts on the supersoil mix, and my reasons behind it.
First, it's assembled with bovine slaughterhouse products, the blood meal is insanely water soluble, and the NPK is a lil weak (15-1-1 or 15-0-0)
the bat guano is the same, although a lil less soluble but still.
the bone meal can KILL you. lookup CFE or madcow disease, another case was reported in Canada a lil while ago.
I'd go with neem meal, kelp meal, crab meal, fish bone meal, alfalfa meal instead.
I also sorta like the slow release of feather meal, especially if you grow outside or have nitrogen loving sativas.
the main drawback for the supersoil is all the soluble nutrients, it's impossible to control where they go and when.
I also think that layering your soil is sorta a stupid idea as well, but that's another topic

Click to expand...

See that's the kinda shit i like to hear. Im not "sold" on any method...I am new and am willing to experiment. But the old saying "Ask 5 different mechanics get 5 different answers" is what i was more worried about haha.

I really don't like the fact that the guano's and blood meal are harmful. That really scares me honestly. I know that this soil "works" ok, but when sub cool talks, he shows that he really doesn't know the science behind it. Or at least the weed nerd videos ive watched he says stuff like "i don't know why this works, but it does" So is this a stoner just throwing stuff into a barrel and if it doesn't kill the plant and somewhat thrives then its successful? I know there aren't a lot of newbies that want to dare trying a feeding schedule. Hell my first time, i turned them hermi lol. So the idea behind a rich soil that gives a plant exactly what it needs, when it needs it? Oh...I was all for it!!

SJ KOrganic said:

I am all for ease of access. Is this the stuff? http://buildasoil.com/products/the-clackamas-kit

Is Coots recipe meant to be used as a whole. Example - If you are planting in a 5 gallon pot, it would ALL be coots soil, or would it be partial, like Super SOIL, half Coots, half base soil?

Click to expand...

yeah but I made my own mix. With shipping on soil from build a soil its ridiculous in price.. I bought a bale of peatmoss $14 from Lowes. A bale of coco for.$8 from a hydro.shop, pumice for $10.from a nursery.. Used homemade vermicompost. Then tbe nutes were $5-$10.each. There's enough nutes to make.3 mixes. I made over 12 cu ft. Had enough nutes for.topdress the next couple batches. All for.under $100. I made my last mix 2 years ago. And 4 years before that. Still running the same soil from both mixes..

vermicompost from build a soil is a decent price and so is that nutrient kit too though. Cootz soil is meant to be used as a whole unlike super soil.

hyroot said:

yeah but I made my own mix. With shipping on soil from build a soil its ridiculous in price.. I bought a bale of peatmoss $14 from Lowes. A bale of coco for.$8 from a hydro.shop, pumice for $10.from a nursery.. Used homemade vermicompost. Then tbe nutes were $5-$10.each. There's enough nutes to make.3 mixes. I made over 12 cu ft. Had enough nutes for.topdress the next couple batches. All for.under $100. I made my last mix 2 years ago. And 4 years before that. Still running the same soil from both mixes..

vermicompost from build a soil is a decent price though. Cootz soil is meant to be used as a whole unlike super soil.

Click to expand...

And you just recycle it??

It says FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS. So do you think the "$120 - 165 Cups - Will Mix into 1 Yard of Soil. (27 Cubic Feet)" is worth that?

norcal mmj said:

View attachment 3377978 Super soil with only water and humbolt honey and Oregonisum xl. Co2 at 1800 ppm under 1000 watt hoods. Temp constant 67.

Click to expand...

How many plants and what was the yield? And how often do you give the Oregonisum xl? My hydro dude just gave me a free big bag of that stuff! Keep in mind i give them a compost tea 1 time week aswell.

SJ KOrganic said:

And you just recycle it??

It says FREE SHIPPING ON ALL ORDERS. So do you think the "$120 - 165 Cups - Will Mix into 1 Yard of Soil. (27 Cubic Feet)" is worth that?

Click to expand...

that's not the soil mix. That's the nutes and vermicompost for.topdressing or mixing. They charge $30 a cubic foot and $30 shipping and $10 for each additional cubic ft. Of soil mix.

http://buildasoil.com/products/artisan-soil-hand-made-per-order

like I said I sourced everything and mixed it myself for around $85 then another $35 for another mix.

hyroot said:

super soil is redundant. Way too much npk. Has alot of nutes that do the same thing.

I started with super soil years ago. But I still recycled my soil and that was before I new about rols no till gardening. I get better results and better flavor and better quality flowers and more / better icewax than I did with super soil

Click to expand...

I just think it's important to reiterate that point.
I reaaaally like that every nutrient that we use is for a particular purpose, not just dumping mass amounts of food at it, that, in my opinion is hydro-logic.
Crab meal, for example, not only helps control ph, but add chitin to help with bugs, and that's ignoring the actual nutrient value of a slow release of 4-3-0, (an example)
Kelp meal, people look at it as a humble 1-0-2 and think it does little for you, but the real magic is in all those micronutrients, 60 diff chelated minerals, etc, etc.
Neem meal, possibly maybe the best overall nutrient available, with my respects to kelp meal and alfalfa meal, does so much more beyond the NPK value it has.
Alfalfa meal, another magical nutrient, triacantrol, is worth so much more than the nitrogen it provides. 16 amino acids and a plethora of micronutes also

Point is... bat guano? does one thing and is fairly soluble, blood meal? the same. only MORE soluble, and they both have similar NPK numbers.
The key is getting a good understanding of what you are trying to accomplish.

I have problems with mites (normally, this run was a LOT better, i'm thinking the insect meal I used helped with that)
so I concentrated on a recipe that had IPMs as a primary goal. Chitin in particular, crab meal, and insect meal.
i will tell you one thing. I really am liking the insect meal I used last soil mix.
I had lil to no mites, and keep in mind, I could find probably mites on every plant, but i'd have to look hard.
So why did I have mites but not an infestation? I don't know, but logic (and a lil hope) would lead me to believe it was the soil makeup that I used.
I have NEVER seen that, every damn time, if you get mites, you get "webbed" if you don't act fast... me and mites go back decades...
I did NOTHING this time.
I monitored, ohhh believe me, I watched those fuckers like a hawk... but they just didn't do anything except a tiny sprinking of pinpricks, but nothing more than maybe two or three leaves, and even still those leaves were barely affected. No need to do anything. I even had a plan to emulsify some neem oil with the advice of @Pattahabi But I didn't ever have to.
Interesting shit.
Keep one thing in mind, it was humid, and somewhat cold, sooooo in 80 degree warm, dry weather?
probably would have problems...
Either way though it's interesting and even in the cold and humid, if you got mites, you got webbed if you did nothing.
I did nothing and didn't have ANY problems.
This is progress for me. I have my growing technique pretty much honed, but the bug battle is eternal.. in a redwood forest anyways.

There is no doubt in my mind the mites do WAY more damage on chemical fed plants than the organic system I'm using now. Back in the day when I was using miracle grow, mites would literally take my garden down. I had cycles where I had to wipe everything out, bleach the walls down, etc. (wish someone would have told me about neem oil back then!)

The plants I grow now are far healthier and more resistant to bug infestation. Like Grease said, I'll see some evidence of mites, but they don't overrun the grow like they did previously.

Organics FTW!

P-

Pattahabi said:

There is no doubt in my mind the mites do WAY more damage on chemical fed plants than the organic system I'm using now. Back in the day when I was using miracle grow, mites would literally take my garden down. I had cycles where I had to wipe everything out, bleach the walls down, etc. (wish someone would have told me about neem oil back then!)

The plants I grow now are far healthier and more resistant to bug infestation. Like Grease said, I'll see some evidence of mites, but they don't overrun the grow like they did previously.

Organics FTW!

P-

Click to expand...

that's interesting< maybe something to that, course it's been... hmmm I think almost 20 yrs since I did a chem grow, late 90s I think, maybe early 2000s...
Either way.. mites OWNED me, I have sprayed, dipped, and bombed with every damn thing you could think of, even (gasp) the chemicals and miticides, which on a different note all together, the miticides are quite possibly what is causing the HUGE problem we are having with bee populations.
Scary to think of that considering the impending legalization of cannabis soon, which i'd speculate would mean more people growing outside and potentially having more growers spraying miticides...
I literally shudder to think of what the earth is going to look like in about 25 yrs...herbicides, miticides, pesticides..
and that's not even talking about overpopulation or clean water or food, or rising ocean levels, melting of the earths largest fresh water supply into the ocean, or running our of GAS....
Ahh oops, bit of a coffee-ramble there..