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Stealth armiore build

Discussion in 'Stealth / Micro / Cab Growing' started by richard rahl, Feb 4, 2018.

  1.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    Started working on my armiore i picked up the other day. Drew on a pic of what i had in mind. Ill put a shelf on the bottom that's not there. Ill make the bottom part a flowering box, and use half of the top for a small veg area. Ive ordered 2 vipar 300's to hang in flower part. Ive got an ipower 4 inch fan/filter set. Ill hang the filter in flower cab and hang fan from bungee cords in top part. Ill do passive intake on the bottom with some pvc 90's. Maybe pc fans and passive intake on veg compartment. Odor shouldnt be a problem with a couple young plants for a couple weeks in veg should it? Thats my plan anyways, what you guys think?
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 14, 2018
    Thebanktella likes this.
  2.  
    KrazyG

    KrazyG Well-Known Member

    I think you may have height issues with the vipars in your flower part, I may be wrong.
     
    j.t.1986 likes this.
  3.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    what sort?
     
  4.  
    KrazyG

    KrazyG Well-Known Member

    I'm thinking canopy to light distance, unless you scrog. When you hang the lights you will lose maybe 8" or so. I don't know what sort of distance you need between the plant and light but I've seen a few posts where people have an average of 12", then you have your pot to think about. You don't wanna put all the time and effort into the build and realize you miscalculated.
     
    j.t.1986 likes this.
  5.  
    cookie master

    cookie master Well-Known Member

    its a no go, it can flower but not enough space to veg on top, + inevietable light leaks would prevent you from ever harvesting. Just get a grow in it before worrying about some perpeptual setup. dont do both in one cabinet, just buy another once you see how many huge buds you are growing.
     
    j.t.1986 and KrazyG like this.
  6.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    Ive got about 3 feet to play with in the flower part. There is about 2 feet in the veg part. I plan to keep them small and tied down for flower. Veg box will only be used to probably get 1 topping done before flowering , or possibly get a clone going good before flowering. I plan on making sure i get light sealed . Thanks for the input guys
     
  7.  
    Serva

    Serva Well-Known Member

    Send the vipar specs back and get into bridgelux eb strips. There are alot of threads about in the led section.

    [​IMG]
    This plant isn‘t even 2ft tall, around 1,6 gallon of soil. 7 weeks old, playing sugar fairy...

    „No go“...

    ...I would say, everything is possible :weed:
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2018
    giantsfan24 and richard rahl like this.
  8.  
    zem

    zem Well-Known Member

    I thought LEDs need a significant spacing as well. 3 ft is difficult t work with imo might require a good design, I would definitely place the flowering box on top. Better access to scrog and work with them as they stretch. Besides you can drill a hole in the ceiling of the box send the chain through and place a detachable ring to hold the light all the way stuck to the ceiling. I would worry about it burning the wood so use a small metal sheet like a metal tray above and paint it white. A way to make use of the height to the max.
     
    richard rahl likes this.
  9.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    The veg box is not necessary, i just thought it might be a nice addition. If i have to, the whole top shelf can be removed and ill have about 5ft of total height to play with then. I know the vipars arent the best, but for the starting budget i had and starting timeframe i had in mine, i pulled the trigger on them. Once i get going, ill start piecing together better lights, but for now, the grows ive seen ran under them were acceptable enough for me to go ahead
     
  10.  
    My Name is Mike

    My Name is Mike Member

    I'm glad you decided to remove the veg box. Although a cool idea sometimes condensing so much into one area will have an adverse effect.

    You'll definitely run into a light SEAL issue like all of us do. Since you're working with a wooden armoire, I would think about building a simple inside frame lip so when the doors close they seal on to that lip causing a corner and making your life easier with light seal.Can be done easily using 1x2s
     
    richard rahl likes this.
  11.  
    KrazyG

    KrazyG Well-Known Member

    Totally agree, if found light sealing the most difficult part of my build. I ended up nailing old bicycle inner tubes down the doors and bath seal strips on the top and bottom.
     
    My Name is Mike and richard rahl like this.
  12.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    I was thinking putting weather stripping around where i marked. The doors have one peice that laps behind the other door when they close, and i was thinking about a strip there too, or would it be better to go ahead and put a center piece in? I also want to install a little cabinet lock on the doors too. I also bought a couple tubes of food safe black silicone . You can make some pretty good seals with that as well
     
  13.  
    My Name is Mike

    My Name is Mike Member

    To be 100, it will be trial and error until you find your solution. Like @KrazyG said, it is absolutely the most challenging task to get right in a DIY IMO. I've gone through 3 different ways of sealing and I'm only at 70% success so far, requiring tweaks.

    I do not recommend a center piece. I had one in my cab that I was going to leave alone until few people mentioned removing it. I did and it was best decision.

    What you can do though is measure out a center piece and attach it to one of the doors. So when the doors come together and close, they close together on that center peice.
     
    giantsfan24, richard rahl and KrazyG like this.
  14.  
    giantsfan24

    giantsfan24 Well-Known Member

    For my box, I tried high quality weather seal/stripping which worked for the most part but not 100%. I used Panda tarp and 2 lite tite zippers and that sealed it 100%.

    In between those two were a lot of trial, error and swearing lol.
     
    richard rahl likes this.
  15.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    Lol i heard that!. I saw a grow somewhere where they put velcro all around the door area. They took a blackout curtain, lined with mylar, put velcro on , and had a front covering that way.
     
  16.  
    giantsfan24

    giantsfan24 Well-Known Member

    I did that in my last box but in the end, it was a pain.
     
    richard rahl likes this.
  17.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    Got some work done today. 90% light proof, still working on the other 10. Got filter and fan hung. Got lights hung. Still got about a 2 inch strip all across the bottom i still need to attend to. I ran it a while to test temps out and used the strip as intake. Both lights on and fan running max im at 81. Any advice on dropping the temps? Would adding more intake space work? I was going to fill in that gap and do 12 two inch pvc 90's for intake, but i need to get my temps down. I put a small desk fan i had in there and running it right now to see if just circulating the air some helps.
    Other than the temps im pretty stoked about it.
     

    Attached Files:

  18.  
    richard rahl

    richard rahl Well-Known Member

    Whoops hit post reply instead of upload photos lol.
    Oh yeah, still gotta do my mylar lining and cable management, but ill get that when im sure ive got everything like i want it.
    20180216_195356.jpg 20180216_195351.jpg 20180216_153855.jpg 20180216_161651.jpg
     

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