so i am getting a closed loop and have a couple questions

Fadedawg

Fadedawg

Well-Known Member
mrmaddu said:
And to address all the talk over the mystery oil....I have heard a dry run through your closed loop and clean your catch vessel afterwards cleans all that out.... but I did order a few cans of purtane simply because I don't think I need a tank to be blasting qps but will in future if I need it

https://skunkpharmresearch.com/vacuum-distilling-butane/
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The Puretane that we tested, also contained mystery oil. The issue is that at only a few parts per millionth, if you have a million parts, you have some. Depending on batch size, we are using millions of millions parts (X?), and condensing the heavy molecules in our extracted concentrates.

The cleanest butane that we've tested, was Praxair 99.5% Instrument grade, which still contained some mystery oil, testing 99.995% purity relative to molecules longer than C-4 after we distilled and filtered it. That's what we currently use.
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
.I asked the same question to best value vacs and he said it would be a partial dewax but all I am trying to acheive is beimg more selective and not catching as much chlorophyll. ...
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So soaking with sleeve of dry n iso is only partial dewax whereas an inline set up would be much more efficient i suppose?
Tbh I like letting material soak with the dry n iso a little while (usually 5 to 10 mins fortrim) i hardly ever run buds but i suppose a 15 to 20 min soak wouldbe great for yield. I dont call that dewaxing cause that not long enough, imo, for the plant waxes and such to freeze and pulp up. I suppose some will but really most wont. I run with cold butane, takes longer to pass but i feel like i get a really clean end product considering i run trimpro trim mostly.
Back when i open blasted i did some DODGY! dewaxing procedure once and i came to the conclusion that a min of a good 60 to 90 min is needed to let all the crap pulp up. I blasted onto pirex, got styrofoam boxes, made a thick dry ice bed and dug the pyrex in there and left it outside then just added an extra can of butane and filtered it through 2 coffee filters. It worked but i wouldnt do it again lol and there wasnt that much crap left behind, dont know if its cause i ran frozen cans..
 
mrmaddu

mrmaddu

Well-Known Member
KLITE said:
So soaking with sleeve of dry n iso is only partial dewax whereas an inline set up would be much more efficient i suppose?
Tbh I like letting material soak with the dry n iso a little while (usually 5 to 10 mins fortrim) i hardly ever run buds but i suppose a 15 to 20 min soak wouldbe great for yield. I dont call that dewaxing cause that not long enough, imo, for the plant waxes and such to freeze and pulp up. I suppose some will but really most wont. I run with cold butane, takes longer to pass but i feel like i get a really clean end product considering i run trimpro trim mostly.
Back when i open blasted i did some DODGY! dewaxing procedure once and i came to the conclusion that a min of a good 60 to 90 min is needed to let all the crap pulp up. I blasted onto pirex, got styrofoam boxes, made a thick dry ice bed and dug the pyrex in there and left it outside then just added an extra can of butane and filtered it through 2 coffee filters. It worked but i wouldnt do it again lol and there wasnt that much crap left behind, dont know if its cause i ran frozen cans..
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I have done something similar....currently been taking mason jar with buds putting into cooler with 15-20# dry ice and letting that sit for about 20 minutes.....I have a mason jar lid with 5 holes and one fits the tane can....I blast into the jar of flower and then soak for ten minutes or so in that cooler. ....filter and evaporate or to dewax filter into a clean jar and then leave in cooler for 4-6 hrs then filter again.....it does remove some fats but when you keep the butane cold during extraction it doesn't pull as much from the material.
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
it does remove some fats but when you keep the butane cold during extraction it doesn't pull as much from the material.
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Wait what are you saying that you get a lower yield using cold butane or that cold butane pulls less lipds from the material?
 
mrmaddu

mrmaddu

Well-Known Member
KLITE said:
Wait what are you saying that you get a lower yield using cold butane or that cold butane pulls less lipds from the material?
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The cold butane and material are just more selective on what it pulls....I'm sure if you get a better yeild with warm butane would be of a lesser quality oil.....the butane won't pull chlorophyll as much when it is cold. I'm sure you have seen that dark dark green bho that most people think is from trim just by the look being so green....
 
KLITE

KLITE

Well-Known Member
The cold butane and material are just more selective on what it pulls....I'm sure if you get a better yeild with warm butane would be of a lesser quality oil.....the butane won't pull chlorophyll as much when it is cold. I'm sure you have seen that dark dark green bho that most people think is from trim just by the look being so green..
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i always had better yields with cold af butane and as cold as i can get the material vs the opposite. Not to mention as you said the overall quality. I actually remember having pretty much green coffee filters at the end.
 
mrmaddu

mrmaddu

Well-Known Member
When I first learnt to extract it was before the "dabbing" days....back when we smeared some dark green tane stew on our rolling papers and made the joint sideburn like a bitch.....probably 12 or more years ago...first time I tried it i was 16 and dude had a colonge tester vial full said he paid $360 for it......and I said right then ill be making this shit soon....lol....dreaming of the dollars....
 
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