Show me your drying set ups

chiqifella

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
Randomestguy said:
Honestly I was thinking since indoors tends to be clockwork light cycles it makes it more sensitive to light changes
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The moon gives off a refracted glow caused by sunlight hitting the moon. It is not direct sunlight therefore not considered "light.
however the lunar cycles are a different animal and useful in cultivation

1/2 foot candle of light from the moon at its brightest
pot needs 2wice that to interrupt a blooming cycle
 
Randomestguy

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
chiqifella said:
The moon gives off a refracted glow caused by sunlight hitting the moon. It is not direct sunlight therefore not considered "light.
however the lunar cycles are a different animal and useful in cultivation

1/2 foot candle of light from the moon at its brightest
pot needs 2wice that to interrupt a blooming cycle
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To specify the cycles indoors are usually machine clockwork vs outside fading in and out with different intensity cuz a full moon on a clear night pretty is bright but my point being the variance causes it not to care as much as an indoor cuz after following the same thing something small would trip it up kinda
 
chiqifella

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
Randomestguy said:
To specify the cycles indoors are usually machine clockwork vs outside fading in and out with different intensity cuz a full moon on a clear night pretty is bright but my point being the variance causes it not to care as much as an indoor cuz after following the same thing something small would trip it up kinda
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no, at its brightest the moon only reflects only half of the foot candles needed to interrupt a bloom cycle, thats the reason. no fading matters
 
Randomestguy

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
chiqifella said:
no, at its brightest the moon only reflects only half of the foot candles needed to interrupt a bloom cycle, thats the reason. no fading matters
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Lol I mightve dumped 20 on an intake fan I don't need then, I was going lightproof crazy and didn't want the tent losing a foot on each axis from too much suction or light leaks from the passive intakes
 
chiqifella

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
Randomestguy said:
Lol I mightve dumped 20 on an intake fan I don't need then, I was going lightproof crazy and didn't want the tent losing a foot on each axis from too much suction or light leaks from the passive intakes
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you're approaching it correctly. light proof for best results. I know of at least 5 issues that could cause sexual confusion.
if you already have 4 maybe the light seal is the save right
 
Randomestguy

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
chiqifella said:
you're approaching it correctly. light proof for best results. I know of at least 5 issues that could cause sexual confusion.
if you already have 4 maybe the light seal is the save right
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Lol tru, also works as a ventilation fan kinda, running really short on ducting after making an s bend and exhaust system so the fan is just kinda hanging in one of the cinched ports of the tent diagonal down next to the floor might be perfect for drying, I still have an oscillating but if I didn't get the duct fan it would've prob gone to another oscillating
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
chiqifella said:
no, at its brightest the moon only reflects only half of the foot candles needed to interrupt a bloom cycle, thats the reason. no fading matters
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Damn our full moons nights up here i can almost drive a car down the road with no lights

I didnt know it was that dim
 
Randomestguy

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
Cold$moke said:
Build a light proof passive intake budd
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Tried, cuz I'm a cheap bastard only used what was on hand and it was shitty, used some vinyl taped over an open intake and used binder clips between it and the mesh to keep airflow going so the suction wouldn't seal it back, twas shite. It worked kinda except the tape would start coming off.
 
Sabaton

Sabaton

Member
Hi, I just hang up my plants in a wooden wardrobe. It doesn't need ventilation because I harvested the plants when they needed to be watered again and because the wood is able to absorb lot's of moisture. In a few days I will jar them and add boveda humidipaks 62%. That way it's not necessary to measure the humidity levels in the jars because the humidity will never rise above 62%

In my opinion harvesting them whole is the best, because the little bud leaves will become weak and lay down and cover the buds, thus slowing down the drying process.

20180409_164031[1].jpg
 
B

Beachwalker

Well-Known Member
"That way it's not necessary to measure the humidity levels in the jars because the humidity will never rise above 62%"

.. I'm not sure that's correct, can anybody else weigh in on this ?
 
BigHornBuds

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
Randomestguy said:
Low humidity only while the plant is alive, dry as normal procedure afterwards is what I meant, still the case? And I also wanted to ask about your perpetual, what medium do you use? I was thinking of upgrading to perpetual down the road and that's a ridiculous amount of any medium really (possible upgrade to 5x9 flower tent and use current 5x5 for veg) so hydro seems to be a good contender for a much larger setup but cross that bridge after it gets built much less getting there lol.
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I dont think it would be a good idea , because you’d stop the functioning of the plants stomata ...
I’m using pro mix, and I use heavy equipment to deal with it . It adds up fast !
I have land and equipment at my disposal tho.
 
Sabaton

Sabaton

Member
It depends on the moisture left in the buds when jared. Those shiva skunks are already "pre-dried" cuz I only watered them once a week and I harvested them 8 days after the last watering. They will now stay in the wardrobe for a few days, after this they will not contain enough moisture to overcome the humidipaks. I will use 2 baggies with 8 gram each per plant/jar.
 
BigHornBuds

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
Cold$moke said:
You talking about me running the roots dry at the end?
It shouldnt cause i try to get a nice fade

My plants have tasted good quick dried in a dehumidifier before lol(of course not as good as a proper dry)
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No that wasn’t at you, I don’t know how it would affect your setup, I don’t have enough experience with DWC to give ya advice , I have a very large buffer , your rockin out with your cock out.
 
chiqifella

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
Sabaton said:
It depends on the moisture left in the buds when jared. Those shiva skunks are already "pre-dried" cuz I only watered them once a week and I harvested them 8 days after the last watering. They will now stay in the wardrobe for a few days, after this they will not contain enough moisture to overcome the humidipaks. I will use 2 baggies with 8 gram each per plant/jar.
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but its all guess work with you.
and drying in cedar is ill.
its strong smelling, like moth balls, bad idea, unless you love on cedar tasting weed of course, its all about your personal expectations

pre dried? what is that?
moisture level left in buds? how much was left, really, how much?
will not contain enough moisture to overcome ? at what point will you be starting at though?



skipping rh monitoring in a jar is a moldy prospect. I've met people that smoke moldy weed with no complaints too so
 
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