Sativied's Picture Journal
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
You're messing with me again right?
I wonder sometimes what's more crazy, throwing the roots away, or eating them. Maybe a soup, maybe fry them. They smell so good it just seems like a waste.Those roots look like you could put some sauce on em and eat em up
Mr.Head
Well-Known Member
Have you tried a bite? I mean I'd be hesitant to eat some of the brown shit I see from some of the buckets but those are beautiful healthy pearly white I'd be interested to know what they taste like, prolly mostly water.
Why not organics and NFT? I seriously thought it was a viable option lol I have a lot of reading to do obviously before I embark on my organic hydro adventure Prolly a year or two away yet A way of growing I'd like to explore
Why not organics and NFT? I seriously thought it was a viable option lol
I have a lot of reading to do obviously before I embark on my organic hydro adventure Prolly a year or two away yet A way of growing I'd like to explore 
skunkd0c
Well-Known Member
bioponics would work better with a hydro system that uses lots of medium that microbes like to live inHave you tried a bite? I mean I'd be hesitant to eat some of the brown shit I see from some of the buckets but those are beautiful healthy pearly white I'd be interested to know what they taste like, prolly mostly water.
Why not organics and NFT? I seriously thought it was a viable option lol
where essentially NFT has no medium the roots grow directly in the stream of nutrients
you could use a biofilter with NFT to make up for the lack of medium
don't think the Biosevia idea really caught on too much faffing about lol
http://gb.eurohydro.com/bioponics_about.php
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Sativied
Well-Known Member
Haven't, yet, will wash a piece and try it out.
Cause organics requires microlife to turn the organic material into the same ions I provide directly. Organics on hydroponics is kind of missing the point and advantage of hydroponics (true mediumless and not hydroculture). If you want to grow organics you're simply better off on soil where the beneficial microbes and funghi can easily thrive rather than the nasty shit you'd get in a reservoir. Seriously, that's well-meant advice because, well, see meme above
Ah yes, the bioponics/biosevia stuff from GHE. Before I saw through the organics myth, and considering I went from organic soil to hydro, I looked into the set from GHE, including the biofilter and seriously considered it for a while. If I remember correctly it used to be available only in Europe because of certain regulations preventing export to the US, perhaps still is and partially why it's rare in these forums.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
It tastes like licorice root crossed with cucumber. It's chewy, once the moist is out of it, well, again, it's like chewing on a piece of licorice root that's been chewed and sucked on for a while
All in all it tastes good, heck, better than many vegetables for sure, but not really edible because of its structure.
skunkd0c
Well-Known Member
looked into it some years ago when it come out
the guy that came up with the idea ensured everything in the product would pass the organic licencing for this reason it does lack some nitrogen compared to mineral foods
and some of the other organic/hydro foods that came out which do contain some mineral ferts too
to me it seemed like looking after the microbe colony is actually more work than looking after plants lol
the microbes can die quickly with changes of temp and ph also the cost of these bottled microbe mixes is ridiculous
1 liter is like £30 on larger grows this would work out very expensive to keep topping up with microbes
homemade solutions to cut costs are not so easy either as everything needs to be consistent so it does not block pumps
and leave larger organic solids in the solution
as a result of all this i put organic hydroponics near the bottom of my list of things to try before i die
Sativied
Well-Known Member
I actually have 2 of those in my setup (at the end) at the moment cause the 360 were sold out so I compared them. The 180 creates more a of a sideways stream rather then breaking it up in a spray. Frankly I think it doesn't matter much in practice. Keep in mind that you won't actually be spraying the net cups itself, the sprayers are just a fancy way to aerate the flow in the tubes. 360 would be better and I do suggest you get those instead, but, no sprayers at all or just pumping in the solution at one end of the tube would work too.
bf80255
Well-Known Member
Finally got through it! Haha been reading this for like 3 days off and on (phones acting stupid) pretty ass buds, and that was pretty interesting about that fascinated plant and all the rot combo small amount of bud always been interested in those fascinated buds since I saw a pic of one a while back your the first I've ever seen grow one out and log it.
Wish I had the hydro knowledge to give an NFT system a go, bout how much would it cost to start up an NFT system from scratch?
Wish I had the hydro knowledge to give an NFT system a go, bout how much would it cost to start up an NFT system from scratch?
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Pic of that fasciated stem after stripping it clean:
Main downside is the limited number of plants and not having the ability to start with more and remove a few (like males when growing reg). It's essentially best for clones, cause they all get the same nute level.
I'm going to do a round without the tubes and instead will build something for 36 or 49 plants.
There's really not much more to know compared to growing on soil, it's imo a lot easier than growing on soil (no medium to over/under-water/fertilize, full control over pH and nutrient level). I think my setup cost around $200 including water and air pumps for preveg dwc boxes and the PVC. Excluding the chiller, got a used one for $300.
Main downside is the limited number of plants and not having the ability to start with more and remove a few (like males when growing reg). It's essentially best for clones, cause they all get the same nute level.
I'm going to do a round without the tubes and instead will build something for 36 or 49 plants.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Well, there's of course the meters too. A good pH and good PPM meter is a must. I spent at least $200 on those alone (wall mounted Hanna meters so I can read ppm and ph and temp on the outside of my grow closet).
The setup itself is really simple though, it's just an aquarium pump pushing a nutrient solution through the tubes which drain back in the rez from which it is pumped back in the tubes again. A $15 reservoir, $60 aqua pump, $50 PVC (tubes and elbows and end caps), and $30 tubing including small connectors, $10 micro sprayers and a cheap air pump+stones I use for my $10 DWC preveg boxes too.
The setup itself is really simple though, it's just an aquarium pump pushing a nutrient solution through the tubes which drain back in the rez from which it is pumped back in the tubes again. A $15 reservoir, $60 aqua pump, $50 PVC (tubes and elbows and end caps), and $30 tubing including small connectors, $10 micro sprayers and a cheap air pump+stones I use for my $10 DWC preveg boxes too.
budolskie
Well-Known Member
I'm to build mine still as put on hold for one last soil grow in there.... but will deffo have it running for the winter just to much to build everything when seeds are started....
So once I'm going in soil at weekend il be to build my mini dwc and get loads practice starting my hermie pips in it........
Time is everything in this game
So once I'm going in soil at weekend il be to build my mini dwc and get loads practice starting my hermie pips in it........
Time is everything in this game
Growan
Well-Known Member
Well i finally got round to viewing the thread. Really nice work Sat. I'd been saving it for when i might get all the way through uninterrupted. I made it to page 4 befor the kids kicked off!
There's a cattle farmer on Cork who growx grass hydroponically and feeds the resulting rootmass to his cows and swears they're getting the best nourishment possible. Gotta say those roots look sweet and crunchy!
I saw those roots and i thought 'mmm, they'd make a nice stir-fry!You're messing with me again right?
I wonder sometimes what's more crazy, throwing the roots away, or eating them. Maybe a soup, maybe fry them. They smell so good it just seems like a waste.
There's a cattle farmer on Cork who growx grass hydroponically and feeds the resulting rootmass to his cows and swears they're getting the best nourishment possible. Gotta say those roots look sweet and crunchy!
Sativied
Well-Known Member
If you start after the summer at least you won't have to deal with hot summer day temps either. Best to take your time to prepare so you get a good impression of hydro the first run. And good idea putting those hermie seeds to good use like that.
@Growan: hey man thanks for reading and for the Like-bomb
Makes sense to feed it to cows especially if you got a whole lot of it. It's quite chewy, woody, cows should have no problem with it considering the re-chew it over and over.I still need to start building, taking it slow this month, but I'm currently leaning towards a floating hydro raft
But, with a couple of twists. The roots entangling as in the pic on the left is what I want to prevent. I need to be able to remove plants without ripping the root mass apart when they show their sex. I also need to be able to rearrange the plants (for example if the males I remove are mostly on one side).
So the first twist is that the net cups won't be directly in the foam raft but in 1 liter bottles which in turn are in the raft and partly submerged and partly sticking out above the raft, basically creating some more vertical root space. Won't entirely prevent roots for entangling but it won't happen as fast as in the tubes and because they are small plants I can more easily lift them and keep them apart.
I'm not sure yet if I'm going to auto water the plants from the top, or manually at first only and add more air stones. I may be able to get away with just using the (smaller) aqua pump of the chiller. The 'bed' that basically forms the rez will be similar to the bottom of my closet, a wooden tub with pond liner so it'll be a cheap low budget prototype sort of thing.
Growan
Well-Known Member
Yeah, the likeathon just kinda happened! Pretty much every picture had me smiling, and there's that button just sitting there begging! I kinda knew i was going to be impressed before i got to the bottom of page 1, you didn't disapoint.
Anyway, i'm watching the thread now which should mean i can keep up instead of catching up!
Anyway, i'm watching the thread now which should mean i can keep up instead of catching up!
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Popped a couple of the P F2 seeds to check if they still start out frosty like the F1.
This F2 is from the P#6 x a random P male and therefor a bit of a risk, i.e. I might have to start over with more F1 first. I'm not in a rush so it doesn't really matter. I'm just curious to see what variation this F2 has and can test a whorled phyllotaxy inheritance theory with it. In short, if it's partial dominance and the whorling was WW in the original quad male and Ww for all my F1 seeds, then the results could be that Ww is late whorling phenotype (I can induce the whorling in some branches by topping or LST, basically by changing auxin concentrations) and WW could be the strong/early whorled phenotype. Point is, if that's true these F2 should contain 25% WW, which I could cross into F3 to breed it true. I don't actually expect that is the case, but it will be worth it to exclude it as a possibility.
I got 58 of these F2 seeds (from a barely 1-inch tall lower bud) and I'll probably pop them all. Will have to create a new mini dwc setup to hold 10x6... probably same floating setup with holes small enough to cramp a rockwool cube in it.
This F2 is from the P#6 x a random P male and therefor a bit of a risk, i.e. I might have to start over with more F1 first. I'm not in a rush so it doesn't really matter. I'm just curious to see what variation this F2 has and can test a whorled phyllotaxy inheritance theory with it. In short, if it's partial dominance and the whorling was WW in the original quad male and Ww for all my F1 seeds, then the results could be that Ww is late whorling phenotype (I can induce the whorling in some branches by topping or LST, basically by changing auxin concentrations) and WW could be the strong/early whorled phenotype. Point is, if that's true these F2 should contain 25% WW, which I could cross into F3 to breed it true. I don't actually expect that is the case, but it will be worth it to exclude it as a possibility.
I got 58 of these F2 seeds (from a barely 1-inch tall lower bud) and I'll probably pop them all. Will have to create a new mini dwc setup to hold 10x6... probably same floating setup with holes small enough to cramp a rockwool cube in it.