Sativied's Picture Journal
- Thread starter Sativied
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ayr0n
Well-Known Member
6 mo jail beats pissing in a cup for 2 years. From what i've seen adult probation is a little more relaxed than juvenile - guess they figure they can reform kids but adult convicts are doomed already or something. One of my boys said he only saw his PO like twice in a year but when we were kids we had to go in like every week to drop =\
Jad3
Well-Known Member
Hey Alaric, that sucks man... Hope you're back on your feet.
How did it happen though? A snitch or what?
Sativied
Well-Known Member
If you start a thread post a link please.
As much as I would love to see some of you grow plants from my seeds, I still have a long way to go. It's currently all just breeding stock.
Growing out the F2 has been a fun experience seeing independent assortment in practice. The AAO buds for example look like the chunk but taste/smell like the CH (without the hazy undertone). It's almost weird smoking it cause I expect it to have a pine taste like its chunk-look suggests. I look forward to growing out the P-F3 but first a quicky with the CHxCH. Main trait of interest this round is whorled phyllotaxy.
In addition to 5 tri-whorled so far I found a quad again:
The top node has another leave on the same level on the other side.
The CH quad I used for all my crosses was only a quad on some branches, tri on others. This one however is a quad on the main stem.
Tri:
Another one:
Middlefinger
Some more early frost:
Using soil (high quality with swedish white virgin peat
) +perlite+worm shit+bat shit+sea weed extract, EM-1 + molasses, palm ash, bacteria, funghi, microbes. Those tablets are for in the soil and dissolve slowly when watering. I'm not actually using all of it yet. The Agri grow bottle contain 20 homeopathic trace elements. A good shit grow needs some bullshit. I've grown the CH twice on my tubes, should be an interesting comparison.
As much as I would love to see some of you grow plants from my seeds, I still have a long way to go. It's currently all just breeding stock. Growing out the F2 has been a fun experience seeing independent assortment in practice. The AAO buds for example look like the chunk but taste/smell like the CH (without the hazy undertone). It's almost weird smoking it cause I expect it to have a pine taste like its chunk-look suggests. I look forward to growing out the P-F3 but first a quicky with the CHxCH. Main trait of interest this round is whorled phyllotaxy.
In addition to 5 tri-whorled so far I found a quad again:
The top node has another leave on the same level on the other side.
The CH quad I used for all my crosses was only a quad on some branches, tri on others. This one however is a quad on the main stem.
Tri:
Another one:
Middlefinger
Some more early frost:
Using soil (high quality with swedish white virgin peat
) +perlite+worm shit+bat shit+sea weed extract, EM-1 + molasses, palm ash, bacteria, funghi, microbes. Those tablets are for in the soil and dissolve slowly when watering. I'm not actually using all of it yet. The Agri grow bottle contain 20 homeopathic trace elements. A good shit grow needs some bullshit. I've grown the CH twice on my tubes, should be an interesting comparison.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Breeding tri-whorled phyllotaxy stable is actually my main objective. With 3 leaves per set there are 6 non-overlapping leaves. Notice in the tri I posted above how the newest set of 3 is in between (rotate 60 degrees) the previous set of 3. With regular phyllotaxy the 5th and 6th leaves overlap with the 1st and 2nd. Whorled phyllotaxy is mathematically a better more effective "leaf arrangement" (what phyllotaxy basically means). The whorled phyllotaxy (extra leave(s)/organ(s) at the same level) turns the plant from a Decussate into a Tricussate:
I may have to settle for just a high whorler ratio at some point. The phenotype is possibly not complete penetrant, similar to some purple color traits needing colder temps to show even if it has the right genes (which in case of WP are auxin regulator genes, a different timing results in different concentrations leaving enough auxins to form that extra node).
Whorled phyllotaxy is an inspiration to many artists and architects, the following example (which technically is "spiral phyllotaxy, what whorled phyllotaxy becomes in cannabis when it starts alternating nodes) shows nicely the benefit:
Point of the building is that every home/unit gets direct light from above.
Alaric
Well-Known Member
Will do.If you start a thread post a link please.
Growing out the F2 has been a fun experience seeing independent assortment in practice. The AAO buds for example look like the chunk but taste/smell like the CH (without the hazy undertone). It's almost weird smoking it cause I expect it to have a pine taste like its chunk-look suggests. I look forward to growing out the P-F3 but first a quicky with the CHxCH. Main trait of interest this round is whorled phyllotaxy.
In addition to 5 tri-whorled so far I found a quad again:
View attachment 3306361
View attachment 3306355
The top node has another leave on the same level on the other side.
The CH quad I used for all my crosses was only a quad on some branches, tri on others. This one however is a quad on the main stem.
Tri:
View attachment 3306357
Another one:
View attachment 3306360
Middlefinger
View attachment 3306356
View attachment 3306359
Some more early frost:
View attachment 3306358
View attachment 3306362
View attachment 3306369
Using soil (high quality with swedish white virgin peat
Beautiful plants you have there----if i may offer a suggestion:
Looks like you're starting seed in soil then removing the soil then to the tubes???????
If so, instead of removing soil use vermiculite--------100 % revoves easily without any shock.
What I did when starting seed and rooting clones-----then washed the roots clean.
If not, never mind.
Alaric
Sativied
Well-Known Member
A more mature example similar to that building, male I found a few weeks ago already. It started alternating its nodes which means they are no longer at the same level and no longer grow all three at the same time but shortly after each other, effectively turning into spiral phyllotaxy. Hence the size difference in the leaves at the top.
Thanks @Alaric but indeed not using the tubes this round. Just wanted to do a round on soil, organics, for fun and cause it's a little easier to remove males and de-select females and rearrange the rest being in separate pots.
They all start out as regular dicots and the whorlers start whorling after 4+ nodes. I'm looking for the neatest/earliest/strongest whorlers. Once I know which ones and how many get to play they're going in larger pots.
I started activating the EM-1 microbial inoculant, should be ready in about a week. Curious to see what happens. For those who don't know what EM is... neither do I exactly, it's some Japanese shit made from rotting milk.
Still had most of the organic nutes I use from pre-hydro times, wanted to get some sea weed extract, ended up in a sort of wholesale shop called translated "Farmer Goods". They cater to organics veggie garden and flower farmers. Organic fertilizers, soil and compost and all sorts of anti-bug bugs. It's ridiculous cheap so figured I get some more stuff. Not sure how they will respond to all the shit, may at any point clone the best candidates and setup the tubes again.
Thanks @Alaric but indeed not using the tubes this round. Just wanted to do a round on soil, organics, for fun and cause it's a little easier to remove males and de-select females and rearrange the rest being in separate pots.
They all start out as regular dicots and the whorlers start whorling after 4+ nodes. I'm looking for the neatest/earliest/strongest whorlers. Once I know which ones and how many get to play they're going in larger pots.
I started activating the EM-1 microbial inoculant, should be ready in about a week. Curious to see what happens. For those who don't know what EM is... neither do I exactly, it's some Japanese shit made from rotting milk.
Still had most of the organic nutes I use from pre-hydro times, wanted to get some sea weed extract, ended up in a sort of wholesale shop called translated "Farmer Goods". They cater to organics veggie garden and flower farmers. Organic fertilizers, soil and compost and all sorts of anti-bug bugs. It's ridiculous cheap so figured I get some more stuff. Not sure how they will respond to all the shit, may at any point clone the best candidates and setup the tubes again.
Alaric
Well-Known Member
Again------BE CAREFUL!
Sativied
Well-Known Member
I've build up a high fun tolerance level, should be safe, plus it's soil, how much fun can it be?
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Some group shots, still under 400watt.
Used one of the P seeds...
It's a male so won't get to test a female P-F3. Notice the short petioles, another of my main traits of interest. I hope the rest of the F3 looks like that one as well. The dark green is from the chunk, the original chunk parent actually had some clawing issues, no issues in F1, but in F2 the aao got too dark as well. The swan and nr 19 were as I aimed for, easy to green up but no clawing and N toxicity.
The rest is all CHxCH, based on two different females and same quad male as the other crosses. Actually, 3 of them are from a third CH female (CH4) that was in a small bottle so could test yield and cropping with that one, but had a stronger hazy undertone so used a few from her as well.
This is what they looked like 3 weeks ago:
Couple of day germinating, 2 weeks seedling stage under T8 (two 3x18w cabinets), 1 week veg under 400w, and I can already determine the sex of 20% of the plants.
I spotted a few males last night, couple of likely females, should be able to spot a more this weekend so I can start removing plants and give the rest some more space. The fast flowering (8 weeks) is great but the early pre-flowers makes growing reg instead of fem a bit of a non-issue in a sog.
Used one of the P seeds...
It's a male so won't get to test a female P-F3. Notice the short petioles, another of my main traits of interest. I hope the rest of the F3 looks like that one as well. The dark green is from the chunk, the original chunk parent actually had some clawing issues, no issues in F1, but in F2 the aao got too dark as well. The swan and nr 19 were as I aimed for, easy to green up but no clawing and N toxicity.
The rest is all CHxCH, based on two different females and same quad male as the other crosses. Actually, 3 of them are from a third CH female (CH4) that was in a small bottle so could test yield and cropping with that one, but had a stronger hazy undertone so used a few from her as well.
This is what they looked like 3 weeks ago:
Couple of day germinating, 2 weeks seedling stage under T8 (two 3x18w cabinets), 1 week veg under 400w, and I can already determine the sex of 20% of the plants.
I spotted a few males last night, couple of likely females, should be able to spot a more this weekend so I can start removing plants and give the rest some more space. The fast flowering (8 weeks) is great but the early pre-flowers makes growing reg instead of fem a bit of a non-issue in a sog.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
Same P-F3 plant as in previous post, removed from flower closet cause I don't want to risk pollen from that line dropping on the current CHxCH run.
Popped a new one of the F3 (swan) a few days ago, in a 1 inch pot with coco, won't have space for it so just for germ and early frost test:
Some of the hundreds of F3 seeds:
Not tiger stripes but
King Cheetah stripes
Sativied
Well-Known Member
From one of the males I removed:
It's magical...
Looks like I'll be doing that for a while and more than I hoped for... removing males that is. Found another female tri so that's good, also found a couple of other late whorlers not showing preflowers yet. Males tend to show earlier but are usually also the more bushy and better looking so always a shame to find out one is male.
It's magical...
Looks like I'll be doing that for a while and more than I hoped for... removing males that is. Found another female tri so that's good, also found a couple of other late whorlers not showing preflowers yet. Males tend to show earlier but are usually also the more bushy and better looking so always a shame to find out one is male.
Sativied
Well-Known Member
My new male quad:
Tri-whorled male, now spiral phyllotaxy because it's alternating. A clone I had for a while already:
I removed half the plants of the 36. Currently have 12 females and 5 males and still one undetermined. Most of them have tri whorled phyllotaxy, even removed a few tri-whorled males. I'm going to flower at least 3 males (the two above and another tri), but will likely use the tri above as the recurrent parent for the next several population back cross generations ( https://www.rollitup.org/t/backcrossing-your-own-variety.840329/ ).
I'll also use the quad but for more targeted pollination. My 3 crosses and the CHxCH are all based originally on the same CH quad. I didn't keep it because I didn't expect the whorling to actually inherit this easily, it was more a "let's see what happens" move. Needless to say I'm happy to have been given a second chance with the new quad. The amount of whorlers in the CHxCH indicate it's straight up dominant, but incomplete penetrant (kind of like some purple strains that have the right genes and genotype but don't always become purple phenos unless given the right environmental trigger). Even most of the plants that I labelled regular opposite phyllotaxy started whorling eventually. I've said/thought/wrote before that I wasn't sure about the ratio in the P cross (chunk x CH) but they possible could all be whorlers but not simply put strong enough to express it. Some start adding that third leaf at node 5, others not until node 8 or 9. I expected to be looking for whorlers this gen, instead I can look for the best. I.e. those that start whorling earliest and those that continue whorling the longest, including some tri-whorled branches.
Switched to 12/12 last weekend, switched the 400w with 600w to keep the temps ok.
I created that EM1 stuff but haven't used it. Plants look healthy and all the worm shit and other stuff I added should have plenty of microlife. It's too weird, too dark, pH around 4, smells like sweet horse shit mixed with beer. Will use it on a spare male maybe. I did add a little bit molasses separately (was meant for activating the EM1), never done that before... or so I thought...
Found another bottle from pre-hydro runs, B.A.C. Flower. It has an NPK of 6-5-6, which is better than I remembered, thought it was high P flower nutes so didn't include it. It's 100% organic, liquid, and highly concentrated and... contains molasses already, can smell it too. That bottle, the tablets and some of the other stuff I posted earlier is part of Sannie's starterkit (seeds + organic nutes). I remember people in the his dutch forums warning frequently that it's concentrated and can quickly burn plants (albeit with a delayed effect compared to regular nutes). I added a 10th of the recommended doses yesterday, don't really plan on using it unless it's to solve deficiencies. I do like that ratio and will try to use that one only on a plant some other run, or maybe use it if/when I reuse the soil.
Tri-whorled male, now spiral phyllotaxy because it's alternating. A clone I had for a while already:
I removed half the plants of the 36. Currently have 12 females and 5 males and still one undetermined. Most of them have tri whorled phyllotaxy, even removed a few tri-whorled males. I'm going to flower at least 3 males (the two above and another tri), but will likely use the tri above as the recurrent parent for the next several population back cross generations ( https://www.rollitup.org/t/backcrossing-your-own-variety.840329/ ).
I'll also use the quad but for more targeted pollination. My 3 crosses and the CHxCH are all based originally on the same CH quad. I didn't keep it because I didn't expect the whorling to actually inherit this easily, it was more a "let's see what happens" move. Needless to say I'm happy to have been given a second chance with the new quad. The amount of whorlers in the CHxCH indicate it's straight up dominant, but incomplete penetrant (kind of like some purple strains that have the right genes and genotype but don't always become purple phenos unless given the right environmental trigger). Even most of the plants that I labelled regular opposite phyllotaxy started whorling eventually. I've said/thought/wrote before that I wasn't sure about the ratio in the P cross (chunk x CH) but they possible could all be whorlers but not simply put strong enough to express it. Some start adding that third leaf at node 5, others not until node 8 or 9. I expected to be looking for whorlers this gen, instead I can look for the best. I.e. those that start whorling earliest and those that continue whorling the longest, including some tri-whorled branches.
Switched to 12/12 last weekend, switched the 400w with 600w to keep the temps ok.
I created that EM1 stuff but haven't used it. Plants look healthy and all the worm shit and other stuff I added should have plenty of microlife. It's too weird, too dark, pH around 4, smells like sweet horse shit mixed with beer. Will use it on a spare male maybe. I did add a little bit molasses separately (was meant for activating the EM1), never done that before... or so I thought...
Found another bottle from pre-hydro runs, B.A.C. Flower. It has an NPK of 6-5-6, which is better than I remembered, thought it was high P flower nutes so didn't include it. It's 100% organic, liquid, and highly concentrated and... contains molasses already, can smell it too. That bottle, the tablets and some of the other stuff I posted earlier is part of Sannie's starterkit (seeds + organic nutes). I remember people in the his dutch forums warning frequently that it's concentrated and can quickly burn plants (albeit with a delayed effect compared to regular nutes). I added a 10th of the recommended doses yesterday, don't really plan on using it unless it's to solve deficiencies. I do like that ratio and will try to use that one only on a plant some other run, or maybe use it if/when I reuse the soil.
dangledo
Well-Known Member
that's badass, sativied. keep up the good work
