Samsung F series - Spectrum question for single light grow

I'm re-ordering my strips after having some issues with DHL on custom clearence. I forgot to choose the DDP option because I made my order with custom PayPal payment. My fault. (By the way I want to add that Arrow's customer service was the best customer service experience I've ever recieved)

I will order 6x 2' Single row strips (LT-F284B) to light up my 2'x2'x5' tent. I will be using the same light from seed to harvest. I am thinking on running them with HLG-120H-C1050B. Thats gonna be my second DIY light fixture and I'm looking for some advice on what Colour Temperature strips I should get.

Option A: 3x 3000K - 3x 4000K ?
Option B: 3x 3000K - 3x 3500K ?
Option C: 4x 3000K - 2x 4000K ?

I would use 3000°k only cuz it works pretty well as all-in-one spectrum. But I would recommend to use more efficient strips. H-influx or Q-series strips use latest LM301b(same like on QBv2's) and arrow has them for sure in stock..

Randomblame said:

I would use 3000°k only cuz it works pretty well as all-in-one spectrum. But I would recommend to use more efficient strips. H-influx or Q-series strips use latest LM301b(same like on QBv2's) and arrow has them for sure in stock..

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What is their max current (Q series 2') ? Looking at the datasheet but cant find it.

Get 8 3000K's and run them with HLG-120H-C700B ?

GentleCaveman said:

What is their max current (Q series 2') ? Looking at the datasheet but cant find it.

Get 8 3000K's, parallel wire them by 2 and run with HLG-185H-C1400B?

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Q series is 450mA nominal and 900mA maximum(200mA per diode). For 2ft strips(21,9v nominall use an HLG-185H-24B and connect all the strips in parallel and for 4ft strips(43,8v) use an HLG-185H-48B.
Strips are not made for series wiring because the internal circuits are only rated with 50v maximum.
You could only wire two 2 footers in series to get 43,8v but 3 in series would be already too much. Its unfortunately not mentioned in all Samsung datasheets but I have found it for instance in H-inFlux datasheets and they use the same 1oz copper layers like F-series and Q-series so it must be the same for all this strips.
Parallel wiring is also more fail safe and the lower forward voltage is also not as dangerous like the high voltage of an HLG-185HhC1400b. 143v easily travels the skin while 24 or 48v only means "ouch, damned"!
But 8 are not enough because the HLG-185H-24b has 8,3amps and each strip would get slightly more than 1amp. But with 10 strips you are below the 900mA max current.
So for your 2x 2' area 10pcs 2ft Q-series strips and an HLG-185H-24B would be the best solution. Because its an CV/CC driver and the strip voltage is inside the CC area strips and driver would run in constant current mode. For dimming I would recommend the rapidled.com dimmer(6bucks) but you can also use a cheap 1$ B100k potentiometer from e3ay.

Look at the frame I've made for my 400w light(see signature). Its made for a 4x 2' area but you can easily build something similar using 2ft alu channels. Those C-channels(or U-profiles) work perfect as heatsinks and keep the fixture always cool enough to touch it. Maybe 45°C with Q-series at 850mA. Efficiency would be pretty good, maybe 180lm/w with 3000°k and 190lm/w at 3500°k but in PAR/w the difference would be pretty small. So expect almost the same results. 3500°k has only a little more blue and a little less red but both spectrums work pretty good as all-in-one spectrum.

Randomblame said:

Q series is 450mA nominal and 900mA maximum(200mA per diode). For 2ft strips(21,9v nominall use an HLG-185H-24B and connect all the strips in parallel and for 4ft strips(43,8v) use an HLG-185H-48B.
Strips are not made for series wiring because the internal circuits are only rated with 50v maximum.
You could only wire two 2 footers in series to get 43,8v but 3 in series would be already too much. Its unfortunately not mentioned in all Samsung datasheets but I have found it for instance in H-inFlux datasheets and they use the same 1oz copper layers like F-series and Q-series so it must be the same for all this strips.
Parallel wiring is also more fail safe and the lower forward voltage is also not as dangerous like the high voltage of an HLG-185HhC1400b. 143v easily travels the skin while 24 or 48v only means "ouch, damned"!
But 8 are not enough because the HLG-185H-24b has 8,3amps and each strip would get slightly more than 1amp. But with 10 strips you are below the 900mA max current.
So for your 2x 2' area 10pcs 2ft Q-series strips and an HLG-185H-24B would be the best solution. Because its an CV/CC driver and the strip voltage is inside the CC area strips and driver would run in constant current mode. For dimming I would recommend the rapidled.com dimmer(6bucks) but you can also use a cheap 1$ B100k potentiometer from e3ay.

Look at the frame I've made for my 400w light(see signature). Its made for a 4x 2' area but you can easily build something similar using 2ft alu channels. Those C-channels(or U-profiles) work perfect as heatsinks and keep the fixture always cool enough to touch it. Maybe 45°C with Q-series at 850mA. Efficiency would be pretty good, maybe 180lm/w with 3000°k and 190lm/w at 3500°k but in PAR/w the difference would be pretty small. So expect almost the same results. 3500°k has only a little more blue and a little less red but both spectrums work pretty good as all-in-one spectrum.

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Is that why I see most of the people running their strips with c.c - c.v drivers nowadays? Build guide on ledgardener recommends the HLG-120H-C1050B for some reason. What if I wanted to cheap out from the potentiometer and go with A version instead of B(not living in US). Is there any difference with the built in dimmer and B100K potentiometer?

That 400w light looks amazing, exactly what I'm looking for but for smaller space. I will also get supplemental reds and the uvb when I have the money.

Thank you very much for taking your time by the way.

How does the H-inFlux 2' strips compare with the Q series 2' strips? Which one would you use if you were in my position?

Oh and I'm planning on using my single cxb3590 3500K as a clone/seedling light since I already have it in hand. I plan to run it with LPC-60-1400 in a smaller tent. what do you think about that?

Sorry for drowning you with questions but its hard to get the right info, you are doing gods job for me right now.

GentleCaveman said:

Sorry for drowning you with questions but its hard to get the right info, you are doing gods job for me right now.

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He's used to it. He eats Questions for breakfast. I prefer Weetabix personally.
Where you from GC?

coreywebster said:

He's used to it. He eats Questions for breakfast. I prefer Weetabix personally.
Where you from GC?

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I live in Europe. Prefer not telling the exact country because people don't like tomatoe growers here. Just incase you know.

GentleCaveman said:

I live in Europe. Prefer not telling the exact country because people don't like tomatoe growers here. Just incase you know.

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Europe is close enough for me dude! Im from Europe too. Lots of us on here!

coreywebster said:

Europe is close enough for me dude! Im from Europe too. Lots of us on here!

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Well I am happy to hear that buddy. Good to know I'm not the only prisoner here

@Randomblame I think I'm going with 8x 3000K Q series 2' Strips and HLG-150H-24A man. Money in my debit card is just perfect for 8 of them and I think 150w is enough of a upgrade for me. As you can see I'm in a tight budget as a European should. Looking for your comments on that.