Roots absorb nutrient ions through porins
- Thread starter Tektek
- Start date
churchhaze
Well-Known Member
Again, the forum bullshit is people focusing so much time and money on this nonsense. It's not even plant food. Plants absorb nutrient ions. Didn't you read the title of the thread?
You should be spending more time focusing on things like how much iron, magnesium, potassium, nitrogen, phosphorous, etc you should use... not things like carbs, amino acids, and vitamins. Those products are distractions and make it harder for you to narrow in on what your plant is actually asking for. A naive grower might attribute the changes made to his nutrient profile, or environment in general, on additions of snake oil products. This conditions him to think he needs to keep using those products or risk losing the results he's been getting.
pinner420
Well-Known Member
You see the keys to the casperian strip are in this notion you reject. These are the conduit. Much success..
since1991
Well-Known Member
My plants arent asking for much. My nutrient regimen has been dialed....for years. Nutrients are the basics bro. Running the rite strain in a very dialed in room with perfect canopy....perfect temps humidity and co2 that i can control consistently day or night....thats a garden. And adding aminos carbs and humics to the root zone or foliar sprays....gives my product that extra edge in quality and quantity. Are they needed? No. But when everything else is dailed to a tee....they make a noticeable difference. Thats a fact that cannot be disputed. Knowing exactly what do and when to do it helps....alot. As far as snake oil products....alot are over priced ripoffs. And you can make YOUR own at a far cheaper price point.
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
Silica
A
B
Cal/mag
Vitamins/ tricantnol(how ever it's spelled)
Amino acids
Carbs
Nitrogen boost
Bud blood
Bud igniter
Big bud
Overdrive
Koop bloom
Top booster
Tell me what's my snake oil and I'll tell you how much your loosing by not using, lol
since1991
Well-Known Member
What strain is that being ran? And do you mind explaining how important temps humidity co2 and canopy management control is when running full tilt like your obviously doing? Your running sealed arent you? Sante fe dehueys? Mini split? Nice at any rate.
since1991
Well-Known Member
And can you guesstimate how much loss in yields if you would if just used a simple a&b base nute? I know when your DIALED like that the extras make a noticeable difference.
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
That is a Kush strain that somebody tried to pass to me as an og, anyways I keep her @ 2+ and she roots easy. Only down fall is mold happens if your humidity is high.....
You see what peps don't realize is when your lights shut off the humidity spikes to the roof, down to the floor and if not removed @ a rapid rate(expensive things you plug into the wall and plug other things into, lol) w controllers fans and/ or dehumidifies (my room is not sealed no co2. Good ole excuse fans thru carbon filters w intake vents thru out) then as your bud grows to much moister is retained inside the bud turning your good green brown, it turns all kinds of nasty.
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
Bro I yielded under 1lb per 1000w w just a and b 8 years ago. I think it was like .69 or something crazy
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
I now stay above 2 but can't break that 3.2 mark. With co2 I think I could but no natural gas here and I'll be damned if I lug those tanks around
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
Plant canopy maintenance is a whole different story, many would disagree w how much leaf I pull before flowering.
since1991
Well-Known Member
My big sour og gets botrytis (just a little on the thickest colas) if i dont keep humidity down in flower....lights off especially. It still happens occasionally on the big ass ones. Cant belp it. They just get too thick and trap moisture. My open structured less yielding strains never get the rot. Its all in the strains.
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
I hate botrytis. After I figured out how to grow fat buds botrytis was my next battle. Never beat it in a sealed room w co2 even w the big blue dehu and low humidity.
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
Big sour og.... What area are you in? I ask cause I would love to trade.....
Damn we are faaaaaar apart
Damn we are faaaaaar apart
Chillin chillin
Well-Known Member
I lost that strain when the ninja turtles came......
since1991
Well-Known Member
Yeah shes a proven runner. But not super uber top shelf. Great commercial strain. I got it from a friend of a friend in mid michigan. Sweet juicy fruit gum and lemon smell. Sticky when harvested. Smells like rotten cherries and funky MD 20/20 stale wine when cured. Ive ran it for years. Roots in exactly 10 days with rockwool and dome/heatmat. Gets stretchy. Needs canopy support. Shes just a pig. Its my weight strain. 60 to 75 day satty dom. Its definitely not the knock u out super potent of my stable but i have those too. Those are all average to small yielding indy doms that fuk u rite up. Its a nice long mellow sativa high that lasts all day. Ive yet to find something to knock her out of the heavy weight division. Chicks and normal tokers love it cuz it doesnt devastate you. High tolerance dabbers and personal growers weed it is not.
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A friend of mine is having the same problems.
His colas are huge but he has already lost 6 of his biggest due to bud rot, it seems to start at the stem within the concealed bud area and then spreads like cancer up and down the bud and if left, right along the full stem and to other plants that touch the problem buds.
Have you ever heard of anyone using colloidal silver sprayed into the infected area?
If so, what effects did it have on the rot and on the plant as a whole?