Recycled Organic Living Soil (ROLS) and No Till Thread

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Well if you like the build a soil guys' products, and you want to make a mix every inch as good (those guys are not Mickey Mouse they know what they are doing) all the knowledge you will ever need is around here on this thread :) You are right, it is a great idea for a thread, call it 'dangerous or useless organic amendments' or something like that. There was one like that on a different forum which happens to be exactly where I got all my info on dolomite lime from. Coot was very good at explaining it all. That particular overdosed crop was taken to finish but just barely. Got some bud is all I can say. It was pretty severe though, one of my first ever runs so when I was told to buffer my soil I just dumped a bag of the stuff in and barely mixed properly lol... bro it was BAD.
I have a soil mix recipe that I made, I call it my "dream mix". The only thing that keeps me from building it is $$. Which is why I went with my old dolomite instead of buying gypsum and oyster shell flour. Which I actually believe Pattahabi suggested to me when I first started poking around the forum for organic soil mix advice last year (You were right Pat! Lol).
That's a bummer about your experience. But hey, now you know! I laughed pretty good picturing you dumping the bag. Sounds exactly like something I'd do.

I might sit down and come up with a rough list stuff that would fit that description of a thread. I feel it could be a good bit of help to those who are transitioning into organics from non organic practices, like I did.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Did some reading on fixing my deficiency and I realized that my dolomite lime should have taken care of my magnesium as well, right? I also have powered egg shells in my mix.
I can try and find some epsom salt to fix it, but I'm a little worried maybe it's something acting as a magnesium def? Though it's very possible I didn't use enough in my mix.

Edit: on second thought, would a kelp meal tea / vermicompost top dress be better than using epsom salt?
Dolo/horti lime is a "east of the rockies" thing , where generally the local soil mixes are ,mostly peat based(acidic).......very easy to overdo, and mag tox/lhigh ph will lock plenty grower. Need a soil test & follow spread rates to use this stuff successfully=== that's why i recommend growers to stay with ewc/crustacean shells/gypsum(calcium sulfate)/egg shell/ etc for cal-mag.

If you get signs of a cal/mag def in a light amended mix, foliar feeding mineral water(san pellegrino/gerolsteiner) will help and co2 boost is always nice:)

transplant imo
 
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Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Dolo/horti lime is a "east of the rockies" thing , where generally the local soil mixes are ,mostly peat based(acidic).......very easy to overdo, and mag tox/lhigh ph will lock plenty grower. Need a soil test & follow spread rates to use this stuff successfully=== that's why i recommend growers to stay with ewc/crustacean shells/gypsum(calcium sulfate)/egg shell/ etc for cal-mag.

If you get signs of a cal/mag def in a light amended mix, foliar feeding mineral water(san pellegrino/gerolsteiner) will help and co2 boost is always nice:)

transplant imo
I planned to originally use peat but coir was available and cheaper. It's funny now that I probably would have been fine if I went with peat.
I don't think a transplant will do me anything except stressing them even more. I just transplanted from 1 gallons into 3 gallon air planters last week. As soon as my 10 gallons arrive they'll get thrown in them, given they stretched their roots enough.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
I gave the three ladies that most of us agree has a magnesium deficiency a light (probably a half tablespoon per 3 gallon container) kelp meal top dress with an almost negligible amount of karanja/neem meal. I resowed my cover crop too as I think I let my rhizosphere get a bit too dry. To this day I still struggle with getting the waterings right in air planters, dunno why.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
I gave the three ladies that most of us agree has a magnesium deficiency a light (probably a half tablespoon per 3 gallon container) kelp meal top dress with an almost negligible amount of karanja/neem meal. I resowed my cover crop too as I think I let my rhizosphere get a bit too dry. To this day I still struggle with getting the waterings right in air planters, dunno why.
a mag def is easy to remedy, give them a BSM tea, you already got the kelp, but the molasses has both cal and mag and it's soluble too.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
a mag def is easy to remedy, give them a BSM tea, you already got the kelp, but the molasses has both cal and mag and it's soluble too.
Bsm? I'm not familiar with that acronym.

Well now I'm a little sad I ditched the molasses for ssts. If the epsom salts don't give me any results in the next couple of days I'll pick some up.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
here are some random pictures for you gents (and ladies)
first is a monster redworm I saw, thought you'd wanna see, this sucker is a fattie.. All my reds are these obese little guys, they like the frozen/mashed/then thawed fruits.
some comfrey, my horsetail/aloe plant...
Some pics of a huge-ass legume too (grown alongside my madjack), and my no-till pots
nothing profound, but now that I have the pictures loading it's nice to share them.
 

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greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Bsm? I'm not familiar with that acronym.

Well now I'm a little sad I ditched the molasses for ssts. If the epsom salts don't give me any results in the next couple of days I'll pick some up.
sorry buddy, bsm is black strap molasses, and yea, I never have any issues with any micros.
the kelp, neem, minerals, and BSm covers that.
and a SST is a totally different thing than a BSM tea, a SSTs is just for the enzymes and fancy growth hormones/large-multisyllabic-words I can't pronounce..
the bsm is simply a nutrient tea.
one tablespoon per two gallons is what i'd recommend, you can does up to a tbsp. per gallon if you want, but I wouldn't do that one more than once.
 
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st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
I've been having a bit of an issue with 3 of my ladies and I think I finally figured it out. We recently had to put our window ac in now that spring is here (Finally!! Seasonal Affective Disorder is a bitch) and I've noticed that at the bottom of my tent at the root zone it usually stays around 70 or less, even with a DIY riser under them to elevate them away from the cold floor. Now, the issue with my ladies is that about 2 weeks ago before I transplanted from solos I fudged and watered with a heavy hand. So they lost their bottom true leaves and started to get that jaundice look to them. I handled that issue, transplanted them as they needed more leg room, but they still have that overwatered sag and yellowing look to them. Their secondary branches and nodes are much greener, but not quite "healthy" looking like they should. I gave them an aloe vera and endo Mycorrhizae tea this morning. What is a bit strange to me is that my heavier feeder of the 3 is much paler in comparison.

Here's the B52 View attachment 3376987
What size container do you have that plant in midwest?
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
3 gallons, just transplanted her probably 4 or 5 days ago from a 1 gallon. She was a bit root bound, but not bad enough that I couldn't fix it with a couple minutes of gently massaging the dirt loose from the roots to unwind them.
What size container do you have that plant in midwest?
It dawned on me this morning that I could partially be having an issue because of that. But I think it would have been more of an additional cause to my issues, not the core issue.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
3 gallons, just transplanted her probably 4 or 5 days ago from a 1 gallon. She was a bit root bound, but not bad enough that I couldn't fix it with a couple minutes of gently massaging the dirt loose from the roots to unwind them.


It dawned on me this morning that I could partially be having an issue because of that. But I think it would have been more of an additional cause to my issues, not the core issue.
it's hard to tell but your soil looks a lil dark, what kind of aeration do you have?
May be simply retaining more water than it likes.
 

st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
3 gallons, just transplanted her probably 4 or 5 days ago from a 1 gallon. She was a bit root bound, but not bad enough that I couldn't fix it with a couple minutes of gently massaging the dirt loose from the roots to unwind them.


It dawned on me this morning that I could partially be having an issue because of that. But I think it would have been more of an additional cause to my issues, not the core issue.
it's hard to tell but your soil looks a lil dark, what kind of aeration do you have?
May be simply retaining more water than it likes.
Thats what I'm thinking grease. That looks like a plant where the root zone is being starved of oxygen to me.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Thats what I'm thinking grease. That looks like a plant where the root zone is being starved of oxygen to me.
my thoughts too man, good call.
the problem sometimes with organic soil heavy in compost and vermicompost. Gets a little thick.
Sorta why I made my mix using the normal 33/33/33, and then after all of that then I added a metric ass-ton of rotten wood chunks.
Too much aeration is never a bad thing when the aeration used, retains water.
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
it's hard to tell but your soil looks a lil dark, what kind of aeration do you have?
May be simply retaining more water than it likes.
I use the 33% - 33% - 33% rario for my compost/vermicompost - aeration - and coir
My aeration is 40% lava rock, 40% rice hulls, and 20% biochar. Should I add more lava rock or rice hulls to the mix next time I up pot?
 

Midwest Weedist

Well-Known Member
Whatever the issue was, she's looking better. I finally got my temps at 74.5 from the bottom of my tent to the top. She's no longer droopy and she's getting her green back, albeit slowly. The other ladies are perking up a lot at the tops too.
Thanks guy!
 

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DonBrennon

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,

New to the thread and to organics, got 8 x 20 gal smart pots trying to get a living soil going, with a nice cover crop of diff clovers, alfalfa, comfrey and borage which have all been cropped and dropped a couple of times and also a handful of worms in each, as well as being watered with a few AACTs and a compost extract. Anyway, I've just been down to my local park to collect worms from their massive compost pile (for my worm bin) and noticed a large amount of millipedes in and around the worms. From the little I've read about them they help chew up materials on or near the surface making it easier for bacteria, fungus and worms to eat this plant matter. Have any of you guys any experience with them? Do you think they would benefit my worm bin/pots or should I separate them out and get rid?

Thanks in advance for any response
 

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st0wandgrow

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,

New to the thread and to organics, got 8 x 20 gal smart pots trying to get a living soil going, with a nice cover crop of diff clovers, alfalfa, comfrey and borage which have all been cropped and dropped a couple of times and also a handful of worms in each, as well as being watered with a few AACTs and a compost extract. Anyway, I've just been down to my local park to collect worms from their massive compost pile (for my worm bin) and noticed a large amount of millipedes in and around the worms. From the little I've read about them they help chew up materials on or near the surface making it easier for bacteria, fungus and worms to eat this plant matter. Have any of you guys any experience with them? Do you think they would benefit my worm bin/pots or should I separate them out and get rid?

Thanks in advance for any response
I wouldn't introduce them to a worm bin. Pretty sure they are capable of eating worms
 
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