Rams horn leaves in DWC week 2-3 of veg

I don't have any pictures but it is classic rams horn on the tops of pretty much all my plants. There are a few burnt tips, but not many. I thought heat stress allthough temps are good and I have about 16" from a 600 bulb and its on a mover.

My buddy said "over fert". I was running around 800 ppm with botanicare pure blend grow, cal mag, and some root excelerator. I''m also using the anti-slime tea heisenburg suggests. Water temps average around 70. I chill to 65 and they get to around 73 until I chill again. (I do a single empty and chill per evening). I have a 110 l/minute pump in 17 4 gallon buckets. plenty of air moving around.

I agreed and diluted to 600... still having problems.

This ppm level would have been great in my ebb/flow setup. Does DWC require less nutrients in general? I also read it could be caused by pytherium but I can't confirm this.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

usually Nitrogen TOXICITY.

For me, DWC does take less nutes. I run about .8 EC in my setup, and even then see signs over over fert.

every time I had rams horns it was the first sign of root rot

My first guess is too strong ferts but next is light is to close, it is possible to give them young girls too much light so soon, maybe try moving the light up a couple more inches and see what happens. I would move it back to 16 when they are older. Moving the light should not create much stretch at all. You got a fan blowing gently over them.

Just a thought but I would recommend you run DM Zone to prevent any root issues, it foams when you add it, (goes down after a bit) I have had no root issues in three grows using it.

If your plants are not drinking than lower the PPM to around 300 for a week than back up, lowering will unlock everything and allow the plants to start drinking again.

A little tip burn is not a bad thing, it just means your feeding them as much as they will take, I like my plants like that, I know I'm dialed in.

PS I don't have a water cooled Co2 gen will have a look at you work thank's for the info.

Are you sure about your ph? I had the same thing for a few weeks but only on one of three strains. I finally figured out that both of my meters were reading high and after I calibrated it went away. ...i may be wrong but it's worth asking.

Thanks guys. Just as an update. I diluted my nutrients down to 300ppm. No improvement at all so I said ok, something is wrong with the nutes. ( they were getting old). Mixed new nutes, calibrated ppm and ph meters. 600ppm at 5.8. They drank that for about 8 hours. They look a little better today should know for sure in a day or two.

Roots look great, using the heisenburg bene tea!

Woodsman, you will like the tankless. One cause it works awesome but two because I know you like to tinker.

Uggh. Still fucking curling. The new mix was 5ml BC calmag, 5ml liquid karma, and 8
Ml grow. Ran for 24 hours little to no improvement. Diluted it down to 400ppm.

Temps are in check, light is like 24" above plants, humidity at around 40. Roots looked awesome white until I added karma now they have a bunch of brown chunks on them..I don't think it's slime looks more like organic stuff from lK. Making another batch of tea. I also sprayed them with some kelp extract ( cold pressed).

Stems are firm, no red streaks, Really kind of baffled. Internet searches return the typical wide range of newb guesses and people pointing to over fert.

Humidity could be higher, up to 70% as the stomata are half closed at 40%. The stomata are the guys that eat the Co2 so the lower the humidity the slower they grow.

Yeah I know. But it's a PIA to always be filling my humidifier with water. It's actually a combo of temp and humidity. Aka the vapor pressure deficit.

Great article here:
http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/

legallyflying said:

Yeah I know. But it's a PIA to always be filling my humidifier with water. It's actually a combo of temp and humidity. Aka the vapor pressure deficit.

Great article here:
http://urbangardenmagazine.com/2010/07/plantworks-part-1-humidity-and-vapor-pressure-deficit/

Click to expand...

I put a auto fill on my humidifier and never have too fill.

Damn that's pimp! I dont know if that will work for mine as it is a vacuum in the container and it sits upside down in a tray of water. If I opened it, it would empty all over the place.

rams horns is classic N toxicity. Happens to almost every grower at one time or another.

Yeah. My first time encountering it. Dwc apparently takes much less nutrients than I am used to.

Legally, My plants is dwc/ebb are digging life at only 380 ppm. no more rams horns for me. I also use a 1 ml per gallon of zone.

I just read through the urban gardener article. pretty cool stuff. I was also growing in CO at about 40% humidity, and would see rams horns even at low feed levels. For me, it took dropping levels down to 400ppm to get rid of the nitrogen claw. Nitrogen is one of the elemnents that just gets sucked up with the water when your plants drink, and if they are drinking tons.. well they are getting a ton of N along with it.

I am surprised that you still have low humidity in a closed C02 boosted room. As soon as I quit venting, mine jumped up into the 60% range.

Well, I'm not using co2 in my veg tent nor is it closed so that is where the issue comes up. I'm tempted to move them into the flower room but that would mean cranking allot more watts..1800 more to be exact. I veg for 4-5 weeks in a 4x6 area under a single 600 with a wing and light mover.

Another thing I noticed is that my round airstones were getting clogged. The increased resistance and clogging resulted in the air getting pushed to the other cheap blue airstones

Sighhh. Some much fucking around

legallyflying said:

I don't have any pictures but it is classic rams horn on the tops of pretty much all my plants. There are a few burnt tips, but not many. I thought heat stress allthough temps are good and I have about 16" from a 600 bulb and its on a mover.

My buddy said "over fert". I was running around 800 ppm with botanicare pure blend grow, cal mag, and some root excelerator. I''m also using the anti-slime tea heisenburg suggests. Water temps average around 70. I chill to 65 and they get to around 73 until I chill again. (I do a single empty and chill per evening). I have a 110 l/minute pump in 17 4 gallon buckets. plenty of air moving around.

I agreed and diluted to 600... still having problems.

This ppm level would have been great in my ebb/flow setup. Does DWC require less nutrients in general? I also read it could be caused by pytherium but I can't confirm this.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

You have some conflicting ideas here.
Youre using microbial tea but you have a chiller? Shouldnt u have a heater? With microbes u want your temps around 75ish.
Id say dump the tea, get a root conditioner, ASAP and check your pH levels. U may even want to get hygrozyme if you think it could be root rot (pytherium).

If you bought a chiller, I would try to go the sterile route rather than the microbial route. Its much easier to accomplish if u have a chiller and there is very little upkeep. You would just add chlorine or H2O2 instead of tea and keep your res temps down to 68.

theinhibitor said:

You have some conflicting ideas here.
Youre using microbial tea but you have a chiller? Shouldnt u have a heater? With microbes u want your temps around 75ish.
Id say dump the tea, get a root conditioner, ASAP and check your pH levels. U may even want to get hygrozyme if you think it could be root rot (pytherium).

If you bought a chiller, I would try to go the sterile route rather than the microbial route. Its much easier to accomplish if u have a chiller and there is very little upkeep. You would just add chlorine or H2O2 instead of tea and keep your res temps down to 68.

Click to expand...

wow dude, you have ALLOT to learn about water chemistry, microbes, root slime, etc. WHY on earth would I want to lower DO levels and promote a better environment for anaerobic bacteria and fungus if I am adding aerobic bacteria?

Anyways, so stepping back and looking at things I think I may have discovered what is adding additional nitrogen and that is my microbe tea. I didn't strain the earth worm castigns out that well last round and there are a bunch of particles would around the roots.

Any thoughts?