Psychadelibuds Underground Laboratory

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Things are looking great psych. I just put a few of my bubba cross in the flower cab, seeing as how my other ladies have roughly 4weeks to go.

I don't know about you, but im getting the outdoor bug. Tired of this cold weather and wanting to get my veggies started and in the ground ASAP.
Yes yes yes Keystone, I am feeling that bug as well. As a matter of fact, I was just day dreaming about what all I am gonna do different this year.

One thing for sure is, my focus will be on less and larger plants than last year. I ran a very unmanageable amount of plants last year and put out way too late as well.

This year, starting seeds in Feb and March and putting out the end of April like back in the day when I pulled trees... Clones in April, and begging until almost June. I want monsters this year!
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
I feel I should mention a few things on how to properly scrog for production,
It is best to have all the same plant under the trellis to make the canopy even from the start for proper air and light penetration.
Two layers of trellis are the best to spread the colas apart for air and light penatration , this will also stabilize the cola destressing it .
With only one layer of trellis the upper section of your colas will still use energy to support itself instead of diverting the energy for bud development.
The plant should be viewed as energy.
If a plant loses a branch the energy is still there within the plant and it just diverts the energy from one point of the plant we do not want it, to another point of the plant we do want it.
The idea is to have the plant develop energy next to the terminal stalk where the largest amount of water and nutrients run through.
This is done by trimming all the side branchs off of the terminal stem or stalk and leaving the fan leaves in place to develop the energy ( bud) next to the terminal stalk.
Plants should be set into place with about 30 colas each under a 4x4 area , give or take a few depending on strain .
So if you have 12 2 gallon containers you would start topping them early to make the terminal stalks longer with around 3 stalks each.
When set into place under your light cut all the tops off the plants even with one another so the canopy remains even through out the bloom cycle.
Trim all the side Branch's off of the terminal stem that shoot away from it more then a couple of inches leaving the fan leaves and pinching the top of the terminal stem every time you trim the plant for about five weeks once a week.
By pinching the top of the terminal stem it will force the plant to divert energy to repair the wound, this will force water and nutrients along the terminal stem making the Buds bigger and fatter along this stem forming colas like bats along it, also slowing verticle stretch and bring nodal spacing closer together forming colas that are long and fat.
By trimming this way it allows light penetration deep into the canopy along with lite steady air flow through the canopy will develop the buds deep into the canopy, with a ,,1000 watt around three feet deep into the canopy.
Most of the scrog growers here are filling in the top of the net with buds ( mostly side branch buds) that will not develop very large losing their depth of production near the terminal stem where the real production happens,
Man I love what I am reading and very interested in understanding this but sonethi g about trimming all of the side branches off is getting me. What exactly do you mean by this? For some reason, I understand what you are saying and how this method will make your plants turn out to have long solid baseball bat colas, but I'm missing the point in how. I am a hard learner and that's me being sincere. My Lyme disease really screws with my tendency to comprehend written instructions.

Since you brought it up though, about trimming and all I would like to share a method that was taught to me from a local old school hippie grower that honestly does work.

What he taught me is kinda strange, and it does take practice and I have NEVER hears of this before he showed me.

But what you do, he recommends taking a seedling around 2 weeks into its life which has developed around 3 nodes high. You have to use a "thin" freshly sharp razor blade, he recommended to me to take the razors out of a bic disposable razor, they work great and are paper thin.

Here is what you do... And I swear this works if you do it right. It is VERY unique and unheard of.

Step one: Take your blade in one hand and your plant in the other. Grab the plant at the very top, the tip of the main branch where the leaves form into a "Y". Take your razor blade and simply, but carefully and gently, slice down one side "directly through the middle of the top between the (Y)" and slice down about halfway through the plant and then slice that off and STOP in the middle. Your (Y) "normal shape of the top of the plant" will now only have one side of that (Y) shape.

What this does is makes the plant continue the rest of its entire life growing into a huge, solid and single bud plant. It is crazy and works amazing for sea of green.

If anyone can't exactly grasp the idea of this method please let me know and I will draw it out and upload a pic. I have never seen anything like it and you have to be very careful when doing this to get it right. But you will find it is VERY simple once you do it successfully a couple of times.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Went ahead and sketched this method out in case it doesn't make sense. I'm not much of an artist, but it should make sense combining the explained method along with the drawing.

Screenshot_2018-02-02-00-45-25.png

This results in the rest of the plants entire life of growing into nothing but a huge long solid bud...

This is part of the Kentucky Hillbilly trade secrets 101, that I have NEVER heard of anywhere else in my entire life and it does work.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
What does the plant look like after its flowerd out ?
I don't have photos as I only use this in sea of greens and late outdoor runs and especially where stealth is needed but basically a 4 to 6 foot tall solid bud of buds but forming into a 6 foot tall baseball bat bud on a stalk for example if you were to do this on a plant set out in June. They're not all gonna be "4 to 6" ft tall, that was just an example. They are gonna be as big as you veg and flower them normally depending on when you pull the trigger on flower (indoor) or how early or late you set it out (outdoors).

Excellent for sea of green and stealth grows. The plant doesn't even really resemble marijuana anymore after the procedure is done. Would be a nice experiment for you to try.

I have never tried this on just a single branch but I'm thinking about attempting it on a super cropped single branch and see if it still does the same thing and if so, I will document it in this grow.
 
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psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, just had to stop by before getting a little shut eye. Its been a pretty long night. Went to check on my girls and finally, that explosion I have been waiting on for so long has finally happened. And you know what this means......


Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-06-43.png Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-06-17.png Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-06-00.png Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-05-55.png Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-05-50.png Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-05-40.png

Time for the flip as soon as so get it set up... Plan to hit 12/12 by Saturday! Yeee haww!!!


Here is the GPS youngin's doing there thing... Saying good bye to the gals as they get prepared to head to the veg room.

Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-05-31.png
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Also, I seen this on maybe 3 plants. This was with the growth before the new explosive growth came about, the growth that was present before the last watering/feeding. Is this a cal or mag issue? I have been low in P the whole time, could it be P deficiency?


Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-05-20.png Screenshot_2018-02-02-03-05-16.png


Like I said this is only on maybe 3 plants total and only in a couple of spots. Not sure about the reddish orange patches but the yellowing in the leaves looks like a cal or mag issue or a phosphorus issue to me.
 

max420thc

Well-Known Member
Light intensity and focus , the brighter the light the more production deeper within the canopy.
Also, I seen this on maybe 3 plants. This was with the growth before the new explosive growth came about, the growth that was present before the last watering/feeding. Is this a cal or mag issue? I have been low in P the whole time, could it be P deficiency?


View attachment 4083085 View attachment 4083086


Like I said this is only on maybe 3 plants total and only in a couple of spots. Not sure about the reddish orange patches but the yellowing in the leaves looks like a cal or mag issue or a phosphorus issue to me.
Most Cal mag issues I have seen the leaf yellows from the inside out, this is yellowing for the outside in.
Wish I could see everything from here ,
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
Also, I seen this on maybe 3 plants. This was with the growth before the new explosive growth came about, the growth that was present before the last watering/feeding. Is this a cal or mag issue? I have been low in P the whole time, could it be P deficiency?


View attachment 4083085 View attachment 4083086


Like I said this is only on maybe 3 plants total and only in a couple of spots. Not sure about the reddish orange patches but the yellowing in the leaves looks like a cal or mag issue or a phosphorus issue to me.
looks like p to me them clones r shooting lots of roots= high p needs
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Light intensity and focus , the brighter the light the more production deeper within the canopy.

Most Cal mag issues I have seen the leaf yellows from the inside out, this is yellowing for the outside in.
Wish I could see everything from here ,
Yeah that's what I thought, if it was cal mag it would be yellowing from inside out...

Thank you for those sketches bro, that's exactly what I wanted to see. I get the whole double trellis things now and also how you are explaining to train them. May try this on a few and see how it works out, if it works well I can apply it on my next run more widespread.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
I'm no expert but mag will start at the bottom and cal will affect newer growth. I'm also noticing purple stems which can indicate a p deficiency. Where on the plants are you noticing the deficient growth?
Yeah I believe that is the issue. I have always used Advanced Nutrients from start to finish and other than that only Kelp based seaweed juice which both of those contain practically no phosphorous...

Then with the foiliar feeding I had been using Earth Juice Sea Blast Grow which is 17-8-17... So this whole time they have been indulging in a high Nitrogen, high Potassium diet with very low levels of phosphorous...

They are about half way through their feeding right now, still drying up. I feel I need to correct this problem pretty quick as maybe this has been my culprit the entire time.

Now once flowering begins (soon) they will be getting more dominant phosphorus feedings which should correct that. But I don't want to be "correcting" anything once I flip, I want them at their maximum potential. So today I believe I will give them a good foiliar of Earth Juice Sea Blast Bloom which is rated 3-26-22... That or I can give Sea grow bloom 4-26-26. The sea grow has Yucca added to the mix but both of these are excellent at foiliar application absorption...

That should be enough to quickly redirect the problem and keep then stable until I flip, because my next feeding I will be switching to AN sensi bloom a&b which at that time along with the other advanced additives, they should be getting adequate amounts of phosphorous from that point forward.
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
looks like p to me them clones r shooting lots of roots= high p needs
Like I said in my last post, I believe you guys are correct thumper.

I have noticed heavy purple stems as well and then only other thing that really makes that a dominant trait is nitrogen deficiency and we know that's not the issue, they get plenty of usable nitrogen and potassium for sure along with calcium and magnesium.

That leaves us with only phosphorous.

That may explain the poor stunted looking growth I have on a couple plants with purple stems and smaller leaves than their lush neighbors. If this is true, the Corey and 413 Chem requires more Phosphorous than the others because they are the ones expressing this trait more than the others. The GG must not mind low levels of phosphorous at all, she is a nitrogen and magnesium whore more than anything.

One thing I have noticed is with every feeding the new growth brings green stems emerging from the older purple stems. But eventually that goes purple/red again and then. Then on next feeding, same thing... Purple to green then back to purple, its a continuous cycle.

Thanks guys for helping me go in the direction I thought I would need to be going in!
 

max420thc

Well-Known Member
Yeah that's what I thought, if it was cal mag it would be yellowing from inside out...

Thank you for those sketches bro, that's exactly what I wanted to see. I get the whole double trellis things now and also how you are explaining to train them. May try this on a few and see how it works out, if it works well I can apply it on my next run more widespread.
It is best if you have the same strain , clones to grow this style, that is what will keep the canopy even for light and air penatration
 

psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
It is best if you have the same strain , clones to grow this style, that is what will keep the canopy even for light and air penatration
I have several different strains I'm running so not so sure how it would work for me although most are based off the Chem lineage, they still grow much differently than each other.
 
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psychadelibud

Well-Known Member
Usually outdoors, I topdress all of my plants with a good amount of madagascan bat guano (contains no nitrogen) but some of the highest levels of phosphorous of any of the guanos.

Of I had of done that this time, I would not be having a P issue at all.

Explains why I never see this issue outdoors and basically use the same nutrients and fertilizers, except for the Advanced Nutrients... No way in hell could I afford to run those outdoor anyway.
 
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