ppm measurement: total, or adding source water ppms?

2broke2smoke

Active Member
Seems the one thing Detroit does right is municipal water, mine comes out of the tap @120 to 127 ppm, all i do is knock off the chlorinines with a carbon filter.

2b2s
 

dray86man

Active Member
Seems the one thing Detroit does right is municipal water, mine comes out of the tap @120 to 127 ppm, all i do is knock off the chlorinines with a carbon filter.

2b2s
I use Prime or Amquel from the aquarium hobby to knock out chloramines, and that's only when I'm making microbe tea.
 

redsouthy

Active Member
It really does come down to where you live, luck if you like.
My tap water is not drinkable and has a EC of 1.2. Giving that to my clones kills them.
The real problem is that you do not no what is in the water only that the EC or ppm are high.
My only solution was to filter with a RO system, this gives me an EC of 0.0 from which to work. The downside is you do have to add mag & cal.

I should have added the my strain does not respond well to high nutes. In fact the highest I allow is 1.4 EC. After a gradual build up.
 

Clown Baby

Well-Known Member
if you're not on well water i don't think you need R/O. of course i'm sure that there are old buildings and shitty municipalities with bad quality water, but why strip out the calcium in your water just to add it back?

The real question you should be asking yourself is, "why does the PPM have to be at 1000?" feeding is going to vary a lot on genetics and plant size. Why don't you just start at 1000 ppm total, and if your plants are yellowing or look like they need more nutes after a while, feed em more.
 

purplehays1

Well-Known Member
if your tap water is less than 200 ppm and u can let it sit out for 2 days before using, u are probably fine. My water here in CA is dogshit, i dont drink it if i have the choice, 450-500 ppm and smells like chlorine.
 
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