pot soil additives....wood ash ???

Anybody add wood ash to soil before transplanting?
I'm trying to build a good soil to fortify growth throughout its life cycle. I've started some short riders and hope to start flowering cycle in a couple weeks. I've got about 2 parts promix,,1 part perlite 1 part worm castings, 1/2 cup 10/10/2 seabird guano. And a little horse manure It seems I've supplied all the nitrogen and phos....but what about the potassium. I was thinking maybe some wood ash...but how much in a total mix of 10 gallons. These guys will be transplanted in a couple weeks and should finish in about 8 weeks of flowering, so a fairly quick autoflower....any thoughts????

Id like too know also, maybe use wood ash instead of potash??

http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/agdex3435#acid
The beneficial effect of wood ash on crop growth has been documented. Farmers have often observed improved growth in areas where bush windrows were burned. Soil pH and soil test values for plant nutrients are usually higher in these areas.



There has been considerable talk lately of recycling yard prunings and clippings as mulches and composts. Another source of recyclable materials is the ash from the fireplace or barbecue. At one time wood ashes were a chief source of potassium and much used in farming and horticulture. While not an important fertilizer anymore, gardeners with a supply of ashes often want to know if they would be useful as a fertilizer or soil amendment.

The answer is yes, if used appropriately. The benefits derived from ashes depend on your soil and the rate at which the ashes are applied. Generally, ashes contain potassium, a major plant nutrient plus a number of minor nutrients. Wood ashes contain all the mineral elements that were in the wood, except for nitrogen and sulfur which are lost through the burning process. Potassium, calcium and magnesium carbonate or oxide are present in comparatively large amounts giving the ashes a strongly alkaline reaction which can neutralize acid soils. However in soils that are already alkaline, high application rates can be harmful. A further compounding problem is that about 80 to 90 percent of the minerals in wood ashes are water-soluble, so that high application rates can cause salts to build up in soils, resulting in plant injury.

As a plant food, ashes contain 5 to 7 percent potassium and 11/2 to 2 percent phosphorous. They also have 25 to 50 percent calcium compounds. Hardwood (e.g. oak) ashes contain more potassium than those from softwoods (e.g. pine). If left out in the rain, because these nutrients are water-soluble, the ashes will lose their nutritive value. The less soluble carbonates which cause alkalinity will remain longer.

So how to use ashes? An average application is 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, scattered on a freshly tilled soil and raked in. For a pre-plant treatment, it is best to apply ashes 3 or 4 weeks in advance of planting. They also can be sidedressed around growing plants or used as a mulch. A ring of ashes around a plant may ward off snails and slugs because the ashes are irritating to them.

In order to avoid problems of excess salinity or alkalinity, the applications should be limited to once per year. Avoid contact between freshly spread ashes and germinating seeds or new plant roots by spreading ashes a few inches away from plants. Ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning. Prevent this by thoroughly rinsing plants after applying ashes. Because they are alkaline, avoid using ashes around azaleas, camellias and other acid-loving plants.

Remember that ashes contain very little nitrogen, so your plant's need for this element must be met by other sources in a regular fertilizer schedule.

I used wood ashes in all of my first grows since it was recommended by Kyle Kushman. At the time I didn't know much and was compiling a system based on his and one other guy's articles. After awhile I started to worry about the nutrient content of the ashes I was using when compared to other people's results. Back then someone in one of the old marijuana Java chatrooms gave me a list of different ashes and their NPK ratios. I stopped using fireplace ashes with unknown substances in it and started using commercial sources. I haven't seen the list in years but there's sure to be another one somewhere online.

So long story short, different ashes have different nutrients and you should find out what's in a certain type of ash before using it. Ashes are usually alkaline and can take the place of lime. Imo some ashes are the best organic sources of potassium around. We use Palm bunch ash like the potash Mushroom is referring to. Purchasing concentrated ash lets a grower know the nutritional info of the ferts used without having to get anything tested. If you happen to find a good list of ashes and their nutrient values, please post it for us.