Please help picture of a few leaves

I pulled off a few leaves to take a picture. The newest growth doesnt show these symptoms. I have 6 plants in DWC in seperate buckets not connected. All plants are of the same type but one has brown discolerstion on leaves and spots. 4 of them look perfect. Please help!! I am running jacks at 800ppm since I am 2 weeks into flower and my buckets are dropping the ppm by 200 in 24 hours. I keep bringing them back up. It looks like nutrient burn to me but would I be getting burn while having it suck the nutrients out of the water? Could it be a deficiency?

Looks like low Ca but hard enough to tell without more info and maybe a least a whole leaf and whole plant pics.

Are they very bottom leaves or ones more mid-plant and smaller than the older fan leaves?

Is it just a few fingers like those or all around the affected plants in the same class of leaves?

If it's just a couple of leaves don't sweat it.

Doesn't look like burn. The tips and edges go brown if it's nute burn and the margins look OK except for just a few tips that are brown at teh very ends.

Are they clones from the same mom or seed grown.

Try to supply all those answers and more when looking for help. Two little fingers with spots ain't much to go on.

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Yeah. I'll take more pictures. The newest growth looks fine but its spreading to rest of plant. All 6 plants are from seed. One looks like mosaic virus but is growing fine.

I'm debating on flushing the plant for 24 hours in tap water.. Then I will mix up a batch just for this plant with ro water.

I'll post a new when I get home. I wonder if this is what people talk about when mentioning different pheno types.

iruleyou1 said:

I wonder if this is what people talk about when mentioning different pheno types.

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Could very well be a genetic thing. No matter how stable a strain may be there are always slight genetic variations.

I'd maybe run some water thru to reduce the nute load but only about the same volume as the pot holds. Then maybe run a bit more water thru with 1/4 strength nutes that has some of everything in it and a bit of CalMag if you have it.

Not a lot else to do. If it's just some leaves and doesn't take over the plant it might grow out just fine. Not a good candidate for a mother tho.

The back center one is the one with the leaf spots. The front center one is the one that looks like Mosaic Virus. As you can see growth is good and consistant with all 6 . I mix my nutes up in the same tub so this makes no sense. Thats why I am starting to lean twords genetics.

I'm going to flush the brown spot plant with plane water for an hour. I took clones from all plants and the mosaic virus ones clipping 2 weeks later started doing the same thing. Now if it really was mosaic virus since I used the same clippers they would all be showing those symptoms giving me reason to say genetics for that one for sure.

What do you think?

That weird banding on the leaves isn't mosaic virus which is extremely rare and looks more like the leaves are pebbled. That's just a little genetic quirk like a birthmark. My Otto#1 did that on lots of leaves but there were less as it got older.

Myself, I probably wouldn't do anything much with the spotted one other than to add a bit of CalMag, 1/4 - 1/2 dose, and keep an eye on it for a while. Take a pic after a few days to see how it compares with an earlier one. Hard to really see how things are going when you see them all the time. Other than a few spotted leaves they all look great.

Have you flipped to flower yet? Gonna be a bigger jungle in there when you do. And what strain are they?

OldMedUser said:

That weird banding on the leaves isn't mosaic virus which is extremely rare and looks more like the leaves are pebbled. That's just a little genetic quirk like a birthmark. My Otto#1 did that on lots of leaves but there were less as it got older.

Myself, I probably wouldn't do anything much with the spotted one other than to add a bit of CalMag, 1/4 - 1/2 dose, and keep an eye on it for a while. Take a pic after a few days to see how it compares with an earlier one. Hard to really see how things are going when you see them all the time. Other than a few spotted leaves they all look great.

Have you flipped to flower yet? Gonna be a bigger jungle in there when you do. And what strain are they?

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So not Mosaic virus is good to hear. I guess just another plant that won't become a mother plant . It's been 13 days since I flipped to 12/12. Today was the first time I noticed obvious yellow buds forming on the tops of the strongest plants. In the photo you can see it forming on the front left plant. These are Royal Queen Northern Lights so they are a short strain in height and time. I low stress trained the crap out of them with pipe cleaners because I couldn't do scrog with all the individual buckets. They were about 10 inches" tall and very wide when I flipped and about 20" tall today. This is my first grow so glad it is going well for the most part. Next time I want to use an actual veg light and not my Luminus CMX22 3500k 90 CRI Cobs.

I'm running Jacks 32 and not the 1 (Epsom salt). With Jacks you are not supposed to add anything else. I could increase the second ingredient some which is Calcium nitrate or add in the epsom salt. A week ago I started using RO water and not using RO water from the start could have helped cause any calcium deficiencies I believe.

I just hope I get something decent for a harvest on my first grow. My goal for next grow is to simplify everything and not make the same mistakes. I will turn this into an RDWC using 2" PVC. An hour a day to level and PH every bucket is becoming a PITA. I think it was smart for my first grow though since it helped accelerate learning. I bet some of the burns on my lower leaves are from nutrient solution splashes.

You should get a fine harvest out of those girls.

I do my DWC in Rubbermaid tubs with RO and only top up every 3 days then check ppm and adjust to the level I want. Haven't checked pH in 4 years using AN pH perfect nutes and only do one nute change right after the stretch if I get around to doing that. I've often gone the whole grow with no noticeable difference in the yields. With the new 8x4 flowering room I'm building I'll be running four independent tubs with 2 plants each and 4x2' ScroG screens on each one. A 1000W Super HPS riding on a light rail will do the whole space unless I can come up with the spare coin to buy a pair of 600s which would give me 50% more light for just 20% more power cost.

I looked up that Jacks and don't see a 32. Their Blossom Booster sucks for pot as the P is way too high in relation to the K. Great for tomatoes but all wrong for pot once the stretch is over. And too much N for later flowering as well at 10-30-20. I use the AN Big Bud that is 0-15-35 with 10%S, 20 amino acids and ascorbic and citric acids. Sulfur is the "secret" ingredient to help pack on buds and resin and I'll pulverize Vit. C tabs, Zinc, B-complex and iron tabs to feed my plants a little extra. Seems to help.

Stuff like Jacks will grow decent plants as evidenced by yours but it's like GH, made for general plant growing and not tailored specifically for pot plants and their needs. I was out of BB a few years back and bought some nutes similar to Jacks made by Nutrilife called NutriGrow "B" that has a NPK of 3-9-27 with chelated minerals. It's supposed to be used with "A" for regular growing but the numbers are similar in ratio to BB so I tried it as a BB substitute, Big disappointment. Colas were half the size and resin glands were nothing in comparison. Was only $15 for a pound and I got what I paid for.

You could add Big Bud for a bloom booster with that Jacks no problem. Says it works with any nutrients. I get the powder BB as it has a much longer shelf life than the liquid and got a 500g an for $80 last year I expect to last for 4 or5 years. The only other thing besides the base nutes I get from AN on a regular basis is the Rhino Skin for a silicate supplement and I use about 1/4 of the max of that. Growtek calmag and a bit of Epsom Salts is about it other than the vitamins I mentioned and that's just me messing around. I do think that Zn is a lot more important and underrepresented in plant nutrients so always add a bit of that for sure.

You could grow a bunch of plants like you have there with two tubs and not be messing around with water pumps and plumbing that will eventually be leaking or breaking down. Once I get my room going in a month I'll be posting a journal. Now that my health is getting a lot better I'll have something to show off. I've neglected everything the last 5 years due to leaky appendix that they finally found out about and got rid of for me about 3 weeks ago.

Turkey in the oven!

Hope you're having a very Merry Xmas and have a Higher New Year!

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OldMedUser said:

You should get a fine harvest out of those girls.

I do my DWC in Rubbermaid tubs with RO and only top up every 3 days then check ppm and adjust to the level I want. Haven't checked pH in 4 years using AN pH perfect nutes and only do one nute change right after the stretch if I get around to doing that. I've often gone the whole grow with no noticeable difference in the yields. With the new 8x4 flowering room I'm building I'll be running four independent tubs with 2 plants each and 4x2' ScroG screens on each one. A 1000W Super HPS riding on a light rail will do the whole space unless I can come up with the spare coin to buy a pair of 600s which would give me 50% more light for just 20% more power cost.

I looked up that Jacks and don't see a 32. Their Blossom Booster sucks for pot as the P is way too high in relation to the K. Great for tomatoes but all wrong for pot once the stretch is over. And too much N for later flowering as well at 10-30-20. I use the AN Big Bud that is 0-15-35 with 10%S, 20 amino acids and ascorbic and citric acids. Sulfur is the "secret" ingredient to help pack on buds and resin and I'll pulverize Vit. C tabs, Zinc, B-complex and iron tabs to feed my plants a little extra. Seems to help.

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If my RDWC fails since I already bought the parts I may go to Rubbermaid tubs or try EBB and flow buckets which I understand may slow my growing some. To me it seems like EBB and flow fills and drains right after but what if it was rigged to fill and stay filled with an air stone in each bucket. Couldn't I make the drain stage the short part of the cycle? I could get one of those bucket systems with the drains in the very bottom so almost everything comes out and have it cycle every 6 hours and fill right back up. Just leave the air stones running. Then I would get the benefit of DWC and simple res changes with more even levels. This is just something I was dreaming up to make life easier.

As for the jacks 321 I just leave out the Epsom salt which is why I called it jacks 32. If you look around you will find people doing the same thing and also going 600 ppm for the entire grow seed through flower. The Jacks I am running does not use the blossom booster as that is a different line of products. I use Jacks professional 5-12-26 and Jacks Calnit mixed in a 3-2 ratio. Late flower you can drop the calnit. There is debate on if you need the epson salt because some say the base jacks has enough Magnesium for most strains. I'm not sticking to the 600ppm however and adjust the PPM so that as water gets used my PPMs actual raise very little. Since I started doing this I just need to top off with mostly RO water and new growth looks less neon green. This is also the key to not having the PH change much I recently found out.

I may try different nutrients but I think I should get a few grows in under this stuff now that I am getting it dialed in. If I change now I will have no way of knowing if my setup and experience is helping or the nutrients.

Hope you had a great Christmas and glad you are doing well. I can't wait to see your journal!!