Plants Curling Up - Don't think it's heat stress

Please let me know if you need any more information as I try to be as thorough as possible, but let's face it, we're potheads and we forget things.

Came home from work and noticed one out of my 6 plants started getting a little curling upward and one of the newer growth fanleaf appears twisted.

Quick background -

Planted 3/3/14
Roots Organic Soil
Temps stay around 75F on average, 82F highest and 67F coolest.
Humidity between 40-60% on average in 50's
7 Gallon Felt Pots (Note this for my watering mistakes so that it doesn't seem that bad!)
Strain - Moby Dick (Dinafem) - Feminized
Lights - 600 HPS about 2 1/2 ft from the plant. It was about 2 feet, but I moved it up 6 inches after I discovered this.

This is my nute schedule week 3 started today. - *NOTE* - This week I also plan on cutting back all nutes 25% as I suffered a decent bit of nute burn last week, but that also could have been me giving them 1 gallon each once a week.

Week 1: (1ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (2.5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
Week 2: (1ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (1ml/gal), Hygrozyme, (3.5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
Week 3: (1.5ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (1ml/gal) Hygrozyme, (4.5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro
Week 4: (1.5ml/gal) Cal-Mag, (0.5 ml/gal) Superthrive, (1ml/gal) Hygrozyme, (5ml/gal) Pure Blend Pro

They've received 2 weeks of nutes now. I was watering improperly giving them 1 gallon each once every
Tuesday. I started giving less water this morning and gave them no nutes but split 1 1/2 gallons between all 6 of them and plan on giving my plants less water, but more often and nutes most likely every other watering.

I was using distilled water, but I switched to my well water this morning on the no nute watering and plan on using my well water for all future waterings. It has a 7.2 pH by default, but I always adjust my pH to around 6.5-6.7.

Sure does look like heat stress to me... I'd leave everything alone and see if moving the lights 6 inches away helped at all. I think it was a good decision to decrease your nutes as well because I can see obvious signs of nute burn

You should water just enough that a small amount of runoff occurs. Also, alternate between nutrients and plain water every feeding. You should make sure all soil is wet and no dry pockets exist, but wait until your pot feels light to lift until u water again. If you start to see a nute deficiency foliar spray your regular nute lineup at no more than 1/3 strength during your plain water week. If it looks like it helps, slowly up your feeding regiment until foliar spraying isnt needed. with soil it can take a week for changes to take effect, foliar spraying will give you results in 2-3 days allowing you to find the root of the nute problem.


Remember to spray underside of leaves an hour before they turn on or right as they are turning off. U can also add some liquid dish soap as a wetting agent preventing the water from just beading off. Just use a couple little drops per gallon (enough to bubble a tiny bit when shook up) and stay away from anti bacterial or 'ultra' cause it will kill beneficial bacteria.



The curling looks like heat, but it could be the light intensity as well, if u dont already have one, set a fan blowing between your canopy and the bulb in your hood, or raise your light a few inches and wait a week

the twisted leaf is a ph twist. no big deal, (sometime the plants run off is sucked back up into the pot and the PH will then be a little off and it could cause a little twist like that.) as long as new growth is green and leaves are not showing lock out then leave them alone, they look good.

and yes a little heat stress. move the light up a little and make sure you have a fan blowing over the canopy it will help with the heat coming off the light.

hydroMD said:

You should water just enough that a small amount of runoff occurs. Also, alternate between nutrients and plain water every feeding. You should make sure all soil is wet and no dry pockets exist, but wait until your pot feels light to lift until u water again. If you start to see a nute deficiency foliar spray your regular nute lineup at no more than 1/3 strength during your plain water week. If it looks like it helps, slowly up your feeding regiment until foliar spraying isnt needed. with soil it can take a week for changes to take effect, foliar spraying will give you results in 2-3 days allowing you to find the root of the nute problem.


Remember to spray underside of leaves an hour before they turn on or right as they are turning off. U can also add some liquid dish soap as a wetting agent preventing the water from just beading off. Just use a couple little drops per gallon (enough to bubble a tiny bit when shook up) and stay away from anti bacterial or 'ultra' cause it will kill beneficial bacteria.



The curling looks like heat, but it could be the light intensity as well, if u dont already have one, set a fan blowing between your canopy and the bulb in your hood, or raise your light a few inches and wait a week

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Thanks for the great info man. I think you might of just solved some a few of my issues. I forgot to mention a bout 2 days ago, I sprayed my plants with some Neem oil. Per instructions on the Neem oil, I mixed it with some biodegradable dish soap. I used regular Dawn (it was no concentrated and the back said biodegradable). Should I have not of used Dawn? I soaked the plants front and back with this solution with a sprayer. Pretty sure dawn is antibacterial.

As for the fans, I have 1 small fan near my air flap in my tent sucking in the fresh air and an oscillating fan above the canopy of the plants in-between the light and the plants. I also have a 450 CFM fan attached to my air-cooled reflector that blows it out the tent.

Here is a pic of my tent. (this is from very early on and the smaller fan is now closer to my air flap, I have all the plants in 7g felt pots and they are sitting inside a small kiddie pool to catch any runoff)

hydroMD said:

You should water just enough that a small amount of runoff occurs. Also, alternate between nutrients and plain water every feeding. You should make sure all soil is wet and no dry pockets exist, but wait until your pot feels light to lift until u water again. If you start to see a nute deficiency foliar spray your regular nute lineup at no more than 1/3 strength during your plain water week. If it looks like it helps, slowly up your feeding regiment until foliar spraying isnt needed. with soil it can take a week for changes to take effect, foliar spraying will give you results in 2-3 days allowing you to find the root of the nute problem.


Remember to spray underside of leaves an hour before they turn on or right as they are turning off. U can also add some liquid dish soap as a wetting agent preventing the water from just beading off. Just use a couple little drops per gallon (enough to bubble a tiny bit when shook up) and stay away from anti bacterial or 'ultra' cause it will kill beneficial bacteria.



The curling looks like heat, but it could be the light intensity as well, if u dont already have one, set a fan blowing between your canopy and the bulb in your hood, or raise your light a few inches and wait a week

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if he getting a lockout its a PH issue. no need to foiler spray.

if you get a nute lockout its because the PH is off. Flush the plant with corrected PH then back to normal feeding regimen.

there only 3 major problems a plant can have
over feeding
underfeeding
PH issue

False.

Lockout occurs when there is salt build up in your media.

Lockout is different then nutes not being taken up because ph is off.


And while those may be common problems, definately not top 3.

Canopy temp, root temp, humidity, light intensity etc all have major implications when out of optimal zones.


Ps. Foliar feeding still works when media ph is off fyi

The neem oil is what did this. Neem leaves a waxy layer of residue that can hinder transpiration. Transpiring is a huge part of the photo synthesis process. Its like playing a basketball game and not being able to sweat. The heat on your plants was magnified due to clogging the pores of the foliage.

Raise your lights Natick with the lower nute mix until things pick back up. Id recommend pyrethrin over neem every time, any situation.


You can foliar spray plain Ph'd water at night to help wash the coating of neem away. If u do decide neem is the route for you, mix light doses and keep your lights 30% higher for 3-5 days post use.

hydroMD said:

False.

Lockout occurs when there is salt build up in your media.

Lockout is different then nutes not being taken up because ph is off.


And while those may be common problems, definately not top 3.

Canopy temp, root temp, humidity, light intensity etc all have major implications when out of optimal zones.


Ps. Foliar feeding still works when media ph is off fyi

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FALSE

and i disagree with not being the top 3.

he is not getting a lockout from salt build up having a twisted leaf and heat stress. LoL

and Canopy temp, root temp, humidity, light intensity etc all have major implications when out of optimal zones would not cause a nutes to be locked out. all those things cause other problems

I dont think its a lockout problem, just stating that ph doesn't cause lockout, excess salts do.


I dont think his ph is the issue at all here just to be clear.

hydroMD said:

I dont think its a lockout problem, just stating that ph doesn't cause lockout, excess salts do.


I dont think his ph is the issue at all here just to be clear.

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obviously... there is nothing wrong with his plants but a little heat stress and little burn as stated before.

and lockout, Nutes not being taking up, same shit, word games.........

For sure Bro.

And I guess I'm old school but thats just the definition that comes to mind when I hear the term lockout. Plus I'm high so there's that...

Just hope we helped this dude out amidst the tangents!

The term lock out is from PH...

When PH is not correct, it locks out certain nutrients being available to the plant.

Salt build up is salt build up. IT can be so built up that it would effect PH and cause certain nutrients availability to be locked out.

Get it?

It's not that you're old school, it's just that you're wrong.

BenFranklin said:

The term lock out is from PH...

When PH is not correct, it locks out certain nutrients being available to the plant.

Salt build up is salt build up. IT can be so built up that it would effect PH and cause certain nutrients availability to be locked out.

Get it?

It's not that you're old school, it's just that you're wrong.

Click to expand...

Broad mites

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My friend said possibly heat or broad mites. I have a 60/35x magnifier. Haven't seen any. Looks like plant is doing better since raising light, so possibly was heat streas. Will know better in the morning.

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Mites tend to make the leaf margins curl down, then they use the curls to make a home and have lots of babies... =(

Notice the key word "tends"... meaning not 100% of the time.

IN your case I tend to think it's heat and water stress, just lay off watering and feeding so much. Move the lights a little higher off the tops of the plant.

Thanks guy. I am leaning more toward heat stress as well, just puzzles me how it's only 1 out of the 6 plants and they are all the same distance away. I raised the lights up 6" about 15 hours or so ago, plant does not appear to be curling more, but leaves are a little bit more droopy than yesterday. (But they are also use to getting 1gallon of water on Tuesdays, but instead I gave them 1 1/2gallon split between the 6 of them of plain water 6.5 ph'd water yesterday morning and they will not receive another watering until about Thursday/Friday - this time with nutes)

I will continue to monitor them closely. I think my problem is wanting to do too much for my plants and seeing 1 thing and freaking out.

The term lockout, as Humboldt said, is any time the plant can't access nutrients. Ph, salt build up, both fall in the category.


I was just rash in telling Humboldt he was wrong, when in fact we were both right and I had jumped to conclusions