plant is dying please help!

blakjak

Member
Hi guys, desperately need some help. Don't think this plant has long left if I don't sort the problem soon. Last week the plant had a yellowing bottom fan leaf and now most of the leaves on the plant are covered in brow spots and also slight yellow patches on leaves. I thought it was a potassium deficiency so I added some biobizz bloom which has good potassium content I think, two days ago and its got a lot worse in those two days. Any ideas on what the problem is and how to solve it will be very much appreciated. Also just wondering if yellowing fan leaves are normal for 6 week autos because more than half my plants have yellowing bottom fan leaves. Ty.
 

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GroErr

Well-Known Member
Hey balk, don't sweat it if they're towards last couple of weeks of flowering, that's part of the normal process, lower leaves will yellow and die off. Some strains do it more than others. As long as it's lower leaves only and well into flowering you'll be fine and trying to solve the problem by feeding them more will just create new problems.
 

blakjak

Member
Hmm well the other plants are two weeks into flowering and seem quite healthy but the one in the pictures is only a week flowering, it has discoloration on most of the leaves and its definitely not a happy plant. Could it be nutrient burn that has that effect on the leaves ?? I'm only on 1/4 dose but I did just add bloom to it as well as grow.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Hi Blak,
Doesn't look like nutrient burn. More like something water related.

Are you using tap or RO. Adding any Calmag?
JD
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Wow, pics looked like much longer into flowering, some of the buds are cut-off but looked like they were well into development.

You're in the stretch cycle. They will drink/eat much more at this point, bump the nutes up imo and check your ph. Looking at those leaves that are beginning to discolour/yellow it doesn't look like nute burn at all, that typically shows on the very ends/outside of the leaves. Likely the start of a cal-mag defficiency if anything. I'd up the nutes slowly, go like 50% first round since you're only doing 1/4 strength which would bring it to around 1/3rd strength, then up from there as they will need/demand more.

For most strains, for the first 1-3 weeks of flipping to 12/12, or the "stretch" plants will grow at a considerably higher rate. Although they will begin to slowly build bud areas, that growth is vegetative growth and fast. I stick with veg nutes during that timeframe and go to around 600-700 ppm which is a safe amount for most strains. At around week 3, when i notice they've slowed down the stretch, I give them a good water-only (not a flush per say but a good soaking with lots of run-off), then once they've dried out again I start to mix veg/bloom nutes about 50/50, then full bloom nutes from there until the last 10 days or so.
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Thanks bertaluchi, not rocket science, just stuff I've observed and tested.
Both strains I'm running in my sig (Chinese LED) have loved the stretch period feeding method and are getting almost too big, I should have re-potted them, didn't think they'd stretch this much, first run with both strains. Hoping the (3gal) fabric pots help me out and keep them going, only another 6-7 weeks :)
 

blakjak

Member
Cheers groerr. I've fed it bit more nutes and chucked in some Epsom salts too, hopefully it will start to look better in a day or so. It's a northern lights auto btw, either week 5/6
 

GroErr

Well-Known Member
Great, good luck, should be fine, it's not out of control, most of the time the affected leaves won't recover, don't worry about them. Keep an eye on new growth that's where you want nice, healthy green growth.
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Hi Blakjak,
Ca? That's sorta what I was getting at in my comment about water earlier. People forget that many nutrient systems still rely on tapwater for Ca and Mg. Glad you got it figured out...
JD
 

blakjak

Member
sorry john didnt realise. anyway heres what ive done, im way short of time and just did what i thought was logical because i couldnt find exactly what to do. feel free to bombard me with negative critisisms.Ok so I got some plant magic magne-cal but I'm not quite sure how to use this stuff considering the circumstance, so all i did was take my plant in its 1 gallon pot and ran 4 litres of of normal ph 6.7 tap water through it. dunno if thats flushing? after letting it drain i then made a 500ml solution of plant magic as recomended o bottle, i also added what i thought was my normal dose of biobizz bloom and grow, actually turned out to be double my usual dose. (thought i was doing 1 litre) thats pretty much it, i have no idea if thats the correct thing to do but thats what i did and hoped for the best. also tested first normal water run off ad it read 6.5. hopefully ive not killed the plant with "kindness"
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Blakjak,
Well, other then accidentally doubling your bloom nutes, that sounds OK. Flushing, like if correcting an overfeeding situation, is usually 2 to 3 times the volume of the pot... some people use water only and some use a mild nute mix. I didn't see any reason for you to flush, but many people flush routinely like monthly...to prevent problems.

How the plant looks is the key. So if the leaf discoloratioon stops, well then I guess you're good.
Cheers,
JD
 

Holy Grail 888

Well-Known Member
quite simply burnt.......:wall:

why do none of my plants get these burns and i use no nutes ?

you cant treat soil grown plants with the same feeding as hydro....

and no in order to observed and tested you need to see how well a plant can grow with just water and good quality soil.
you havent done this ever ... clearly !

when passing on advice to why are nutes the answer... 9/10 its the very problem.

it takes patience and experience not to add shit , to watch and see...

try it !bongsmilie
 

Mellodrama

Well-Known Member
John Dee (Post #4) sez it doesn't look like nute burn. HG 888 (Post #17) sez it's "quite simply burnt".

I'm a newb, but would tend to agree with JD. AFAIK nute burn typically scorches the leaf membranes along the tip and edges, working its way inward. Nute deficiencies often express themselves across some or all of the leaf surface. Some nute def's damage the edges, which only makes diagnosis that much more fun.

I don't see much discussion of mobile vs. immobile in these threads. To me, that seems like a starting point for trouble-shooting. From this website:

http://nrcca.cals.cornell.edu/nutrient/CA1/CA010102.php

Mobile nutes: N, K, S, Cl, Ni
Somewhat mobile: P, Mg
Immobile: Ca, Fe, Mn, Zn, Cu, B, Mo, Co.

The plant can move mobile elements from established leaves to new growth. Immobile elements stay where they landed. So mobile element deficiencies such as N will first appear in the older leaves as the plant tries to adapt to the deficiency. Immobile deficiencies, such as Ca, will display in newer growth. So with just that knowledge you can filter out roughly half the possibilities. Cl, Ni, B, Mo, and Co problems are somewhat rare so unless you're one lucky dude you're probably down to N, K, and/or S if the problem is appearing in the lower leaves. Or Ca, Fe, Mn, and/or Zn in the new growth. If not for those two pesky semi-mobile elements (P and Mg) this is almost too easy ;)

It appears to this newb that blak's problems are showing up in the lowest leaves. If it's not nute burn, seems to me the thing to do is take a hard look at N, K, & S first, and keep P & Mg in mind too.
 

Holy Grail 888

Well-Known Member
sorry john didnt realise. anyway heres what ive done, im way short of time and just did what i thought was logical because i couldnt find exactly what to do. feel free to bombard me with negative critisisms.Ok so I got some plant magic magne-cal but I'm not quite sure how to use this stuff considering the circumstance, so all i did was take my plant in its 1 gallon pot and ran 4 litres of of normal ph 6.7 tap water through it. dunno if thats flushing? after letting it drain i then made a 500ml solution of plant magic as recomended o bottle, i also added what i thought was my normal dose of biobizz bloom and grow, actually turned out to be double my usual dose. (thought i was doing 1 litre) thats pretty much it, i have no idea if thats the correct thing to do but thats what i did and hoped for the best. also tested first normal water run off ad it read 6.5. hopefully ive not killed the plant with "kindness"
fair enough who you decide to follow. however JD is clearly an advanced grower and what works for him wont for you. you dont have his level of exp. again i can only say its a journey and if you havent grown a few dozen grows in soil without adding shit then you will never know the feeding thresholds of a plant.

i grow many diff plants , i love growing.

i see no advantage to bombarding a noob with such advanced techniques before nailing the basics.

otherwise you will never be able to compare and contrast your grows.

however im sure most will agree most noobs would do best without opening a bottle of nutrients to start.

i just keep it simple..

thats how I roll it up.....:joint::lol:
 

JohnDee

Well-Known Member
Hi Guys,
Blakjak added nutrients and accidentally used twice what he intended to (bloom nutes). IF his plant had nutrient burn already...after that the leaves should be falling off from burn necrosis. Nute burn almost always effects leaf tips and edges first.

I titally agree that nutrient burn is a very common problem and that people tend to treat dirt plants like hydro and feed feed feed.

But the second most common problem is either Ca or Mg or both from not matching the water to the nutes so that there is either a deficiency or excess of one or both of those nutrients. I felt that it looked like a Ca issue myself. That's what I was trying to communicate to Blakjak before he added nutrients.

So Blakjak...can you post some new pictures so we can see what's happening now...after your feeding?
JD
 
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