Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

Abiqua · Jul 25, 2015

JJ43 said:
I took them out because I bought them at too low a cutoff temp. After thinking about it more, I don't think they are necessary. Already have a sink and fan. In fifteen years of building my own computers, I have yet to have a cpu fan fail. Lucky me. If one does fail I won't have a fire, I might have a burnt out cob, but I trust the fan will do its thing for years.

A burnt out cob, can be more than a burn out cob, that much is clear....that is clearly worst case scenario, but certainly possible....

Agreed on cpu fan failure......but not on power supplies.

I am simply curious about using temp as a switch for electricity, rather than the moment it is actually needed....ie catastrophic failure......but in reality I am using this circuit or a derivative of, for testing, thanks @rufus01

and @salmonetin and @ HydroDC for conceiving said thread :peace:

Abiqua · Jul 25, 2015

PurpleBuz said:
75 degrees centigrade seems like a good cutoff temp. although not ideal most decent quality leds will continue to run ok at 85 C, won't they ?

Well, we shall see, although, I am leaning that it is a little on the high side, with what I keep my Ta @ and the amount of cooling area to achieve that Ta...which is usually 75F, hopefully translates to a less than 35c Tj and then from there???????

will be watching this AGAIN....to calculate and have a better # in mind.....

Tim Fox · Jul 25, 2015

Is that the thermal switch out of a stove or a clothes dryer?

Abiqua said:
A burnt out cob, can be more than a burn out cob, that much is clear....that is clearly worst case scenario, but certainly possible....

Agreed on cpu fan failure......but not on power supplies.

I am simply curious about using temp as a switch for electricity, rather than the moment it is actually needed....ie catastrophic failure......but in reality I am using this circuit or a derivative of, for testing, thanks @rufus01
View attachment 3466574
and @salmonetin and @ HydroDC for conceiving said thread

Abiqua · Jul 25, 2015

Tim Fox said:
Is that the thermal switch out of a stove or a clothes dryer?

Could be Tim, I am not familiar enough with either a oven/dryer.....basically a thermostatic fan switch....pretty generic, maybe even something like a auto coffeepot, might have one, so you could be right. :peace:

dandyrandy · Jul 26, 2015

JJ43 said:
I'm not sure I fully understand what you are describing with the alpine 11...
So far thermal performance doesn't seem to be a problem. Admittedly, I have not run them 12 hours continuous yet, but I have large openings directly above each cpu fan and I can feel air flowing out of the top. Heat sink fins are oriented in parallel in relation to the bar itself. I have fans I can add to the ends to help if it turns out that I need them. So far the heatsinks barely raise in temp at all. We shall see what happens.

On a related note, I had installed ksd9700 35c inline temperature switches (pic included) and attached one to each heatsink. The trouble with these switches is that they have a stated margin of error +- 5 degrees, which causes some of them to shut off too early. I removed them but I may try again at some point because I like the idea.

I hope you don't mind if I steal your vinyl fencepost idea. I am building 2 45 inch long 5" square light bars with 4 Vero 29's in each. Each bar can run 400w. I am putting a 4" flange in the center pointing up on each. Then I will y off and go to an inline carbon filter. That way airflow will be through each end (4) and through the carbon filter and out. Drivers will be mounted inside for cooling as well. The Alpine 11 fans will stay on and blow from side to side if looking in the ends. I have an adjustable 4" system now. Approx 150cfm max. I usually run about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle depending on temp. I also ordered some new 3500°. I ordered 2 LCD power meters off of fleabay. Pictures will be forthcoming. I believe this will let me have very little temp rise in the summer. Also extensive overtemp etc monitors.

JJ43 · Jul 26, 2015

dandyrandy said:
I hope you don't mind if I steal your vinyl fencepost idea.

I already credited that idea to @SomeGuy but thanks anyway

Al Yamoni · Jul 27, 2015

Just re-wired my first diy cob build bc I used the wrong wire previously. I cut some holes in the reflective material for airflow and straightened up the wiring as well. The trial run was excellent too. bongsmilie

robincnn · Jul 30, 2015

Meinolf said:
Bump! Craving for some fresh designs... What have you got?

Does this satisfy your craving for new design.
Dog lick proof, wife light throw proof, Military grade Ninja Shield on Vero 29.

bicit · Jul 30, 2015

Where did you get that heatsink... do tell

robincnn · Jul 30, 2015

bicit said:
Where did you get that heatsink... do tell

Left, Got the radial HS from chinatown. Almost same size 4.900" Heatsink USA on Right.
I always thought the radial once will be better as the air can flow out 360 degree unlike flat heatsink in which air flows only on 2 sides.
The Radial has 55mm soild core front front to back that may be interfering with cooling.
Which may not be good as this 4.900" Heatsink USA is doing actually better by a few degrees in terms of Tc

I plan on anodizing this round one and running a CXB3590 DD (if i ever find one) passive cooled at 0.7 or 1Amps. In radial one the fins have a open path vertically so it might help with passive air convection cooling. I may have a spare one incase you curious or need for a project IM me.

Abiqua · Jul 30, 2015

@robincnn

can you eleborate or post the thread in an IM......where you go into detail on which thermocouple you are using? Nice by the way...I did see you chat with SDS?

Thanks.....about to order one and I just wanted a final tally on what you are running :peace:

Scotch089 · Jul 30, 2015

robincnn said:
Left, Got the radial HS from chinatown. Almost same size 4.900" Heatsink USA on Right.
I always thought the radial once will be better as the air can flow out 360 degree unlike flat heatsink in which air flows only on 2 sides.
The Radial has 55mm soild core front front to back that may be interfering with cooling.
Which may not be good as this 4.900" Heatsink USA is doing actually better by a few degrees in terms of Tc

View attachment 3469715

View attachment 3469716

View attachment 3469717

I plan on anodizing this round one and running a CXB3590 DD (if i ever find one) passive cooled at 0.7 or 1Amps. In radial one the fins have a open path vertically so it might help with passive air convection cooling. I may have a spare one incase you curious or need for a project IM me.

You mean BB's or are they not listed?

robincnn · Jul 30, 2015

This one DD

Actionbone · Jul 31, 2015

robincnn said:
This one DD
View attachment 3469959

Wow !!Where you can buy DD now?

robincnn · Jul 31, 2015

Actionbone said:
Wow !!Where you can buy DD now?

3590DD. @REALSTYLES got it from jerry from kingbright in 6500k
i asked jerry a few times but they never seem to have any DD
https://www.rollitup.org/t/has-anyone-used-db-or-dd-bin-cree-cxb3590.873667/

PurpleBuz · Jul 31, 2015

robincnn said:
Left, Got the radial HS from chinatown. Almost same size 4.900" Heatsink USA on Right.
I always thought the radial once will be better as the air can flow out 360 degree unlike flat heatsink in which air flows only on 2 sides.
The Radial has 55mm soild core front front to back that may be interfering with cooling.
Which may not be good as this 4.900" Heatsink USA is doing actually better by a few degrees in terms of Tc

View attachment 3469715

View attachment 3469716

View attachment 3469717

I plan on anodizing this round one and running a CXB3590 DD (if i ever find one) passive cooled at 0.7 or 1Amps. In radial one the fins have a open path vertically so it might help with passive air convection cooling. I may have a spare one incase you curious or need for a project IM me.

whats the weight difference between the radial hs and the square one from heatsinkusa?
does that account for the performance diff?

dandyrandy · Aug 3, 2015

Cooltube led. Love the new fleabay power meter. I replaced my 3 rail 9 cob total with 2 bars 4 Vero 29's each. Have a 3° rise from ambient at intake 4" below the LEDs. So much for any heat problems.

OneHitDone · Aug 3, 2015

dandyrandy said:
Cooltube led. Love the new fleabay power meter. I replaced my 3 rail 9 cob total with 2 bars 4 Vero 29's each. Have a 3° rise from ambient at intake 4" below the LEDs. So much for any heat problems.

Now thats what I'm talking about

PurpleBuz · Aug 6, 2015

my latest diy 200 watts general flowering\veg light.
vero 18s 3K + cree photo red (1000ma max) + cree royal blue (1500 ma max) running on a single HLG-185H-c1050A running just under driver max. dual fans use less than a couple of watts. so far max temps I have seen at the back of the heatsink is around 90F ish after running for an hour, in ambient temp of 77F. Seems to be same temp as the hlg driver.

HEATSINKUSA 4.85" X 39" (designed to fit in 1 meter).
fan drivers are recycled from Chinese junk lights.

all American red white and blue

caretak3r · Aug 6, 2015

PurpleBuz said:
my latest diy 200 watts general flowering\veg light.
vero 18s + cree photo red + cree royal blue running on a single HLG-185H-c1050A running just under driver max. dual fans use less than a couple of watts. so far max temps I have seen at the back of the heatsink is around 90F ish after running for an hour, in ambient temp of 77F. Seems to be same temp as the hlg driver.

View attachment 3474284

View attachment 3474285

View attachment 3474278

all American red white and blueView attachment 3474280

looks like art

Pictures of your DIY lights - Post your pics!!!

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