pH won't fluctuate...

NrthrnMichigan

Well-Known Member
My current grow I'm having this problem...I can't remember if I'm in week 7 or 8 lol. I think I flipped them the weekend after Thanksgiving..? Guess the scope will come in handy this round.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Just curious about the lids on your brutes...how they holding up? Will they hold big plants without caving in? I'm about to spring for a couple 10 gallon size cans but the lids are keeping me from pulling the trigger.

Just fine so far it why i bought them they are TOUGH. They dont deform as bad as a tote!

Some peeps have confusion when they see my setup so i might do a write up on it:)
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
I don't know why I never thought to use a planner... I have a word document where I note everything worth remembering. If I didn't keep notes I wouldn't even remember when I start flowering. It's happened before, where I find myself scrolling through pictures trying to find one I took around that time..
I use to keep it on my iPad in excel but I don’t like bringing it down to the grow area. Too much that can go wrong there.
 

dtl420

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4075400 I don't want to hi-jack the thread but... Bigger roots bigger fruits. this is typical for my 5 gallon buckets. Imagine 10 gallon buckets!
That's beautiful! I hadn't thought it through very well when I started my dwc in 3.5gal buckets. I was only using about 1.5gal of solution, and once I flipped to flower she was drinking .5-1 gal a day. My pH was dropping down around 4.5 every day (probably the root rot), so I started setting it HIGH (around 6.5-7) to try and manage it. The 5gal bucket is MUCH more stable. Still have to add water every day, but now my pH is staying up. Fingers crossed, I think I've finally beat the root rot.
 

dtl420

Well-Known Member
I use to keep it on my iPad in excel but I don’t like bringing it down to the grow area. Too much that can go wrong there.
Growing can be a dangerous sport. lol. Mine is on my desktop. Just the other day I was taking notes of the old res water with the bucket sitting on the floor by the computer desk. I accidently knocked my pH meter in, busted the glass over the electrode and filled with water way quicker than I thought it would.. Luckily my phone case is waterproof or I would have gone through quite a few of them by now too.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Growing can be a dangerous sport. lol. Mine is on my desktop. Just the other day I was taking notes of the old res water with the bucket sitting on the floor by the computer desk. I accidently knocked my pH meter in, busted the glass over the electrode and filled with water way quicker than I thought it would.. Luckily my phone case is waterproof or I would have gone through quite a few of them by now too.
Lol right I’m glad the new galaxy and note 8’s are water proof lol
 

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Ok well Ive been looking into it more and I think Im gonna start to go the benny route....or at least start with Recharge.

Ill mix some with water and top feed.

Consensus seems to be that bennies aren't required in a dwc, especially if using chemical nutes(Mine are), because the nutes are already available...
But most seem to agree that more bennies are never a bad thing and only help prevent bad and promote good in root zone.

Lordhooha do you think just Recharge will work or do I need to start thinking about brewing teas...I really don't want to think about brewing teas lol
I just got ahold of some Recharge. I'm going to use it as an innoculant so a bag should last a very long time. Ideally the Recharge would be used to innoculate the roots prior to going in the rez. The one think I don't like about tea and Recharge is the carbs. Brewed long enough the bennies will consume the carbs but it's difficult to say at what point that is. At any rate like tea the Recharge can be brewed. It's a spore based product so it will benefit from being brewed for a day or two prior to use and will reduce the carb content to some degree.

Regarding the plants, PH doesn't swing as fast with young plants. Most ferts these days are primarily nitrate nitrogen based so as the plant feeds it releases OH- and PH increases. Between the young plants and the cold water it's probably just a lack of nutrient uptake that's keeping the PH steady. Also chelated ferts can be absorbed at a wider PH range. Most good ferts contain chelators these days so they don't need to be kept swinging through the whole range.
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
I just got ahold of some Recharge. I'm going to use it as an innoculant so a bag should last a very long time. Ideally the Recharge would be used to innoculate the roots prior to going in the rez. The one think I don't like about tea and Recharge is the carbs. Brewed long enough the bennies will consume the carbs but it's difficult to say at what point that is. At any rate like tea the Recharge can be brewed. It's a spore based product so it will benefit from being brewed for a day or two prior to use and will reduce the carb content to some degree.

Regarding the plants, PH doesn't swing as fast with young plants. Most ferts these days are primarily nitrate nitrogen based so as the plant feeds it releases OH- and PH increases. Between the young plants and the cold water it's probably just a lack of nutrient uptake that's keeping the PH steady. Also chelated ferts can be absorbed at a wider PH range. Most good ferts contain chelators these days so they don't need to be kept swinging through the whole range.
I simply add more of whatever mycorrhiza type product once a week, same with mammoth p. For me i see the ph start swinging once my water becomes “tired” is a good word and need changed. I use my well water too which starts at 200 ppm or .4 EC and mainly calcium. Using my well water keeps my ph stable for some time downside though it takes more buffering agent to get my ph down.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Ill have better notes soon.

Been swingen it with no meter now for about five years lmao

But after the last run had problems and this run showed some deficiency in veg.

I got a new constant read meter put in last.night.

So now ill have to start writing shit down again with the new nutes :lol:
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone. I have used this site for my last 2 grows, but never needed to actually post anything because you guys always answer my questions via someone else's questions.

That being said...

I have this issue that most probably wouldn't consider a problem, nevertheless it's been driving me crazy.

My pH will not fluctuate. And when it does, it goes up by about .3 in a week. I know how it sounds, the thing is; I can only check my plants every 7 days or so. I need the pH to fluctuate from the 5.5(or so) to the 6.5(or so) range so the plants get all their nutrients.

Last week I set my pH at about 5.3ish. I know that is kinda low, but I assumed by the next week it would have risen. It didn't change much. Went up to 5.5 in 7 days.

When I first saw them the leaves were curling up. Growth seemed stunted. All new growth is small, somewhat clawed, and a yellowish, lime green color. Older leaves had bronze spots and yellowing. Purple stems and veins. The roots that touch the water were turning a brownish color, but not slimy; more of a crunchy brittle feeling. I think that's it...

At first I thought I had Mg deficiency. So I added some epsom salts and a little phosphorus rich flower nute.
Then I thought I was nute burning them.
PPM read 600 before the salts. 800 after.

Also, I forgot to mention that my temperature went down really low to about 63F for about 48 hrs. I don't have a water thermometer but it felt "Really" cold to the touch. I did some research and thought maybe it was just the cold that had them looking bad and stunted growth so I didn't do anything else.

I saw them yesterday and they didn't look much better. The leaves that were spotting and turning were getting worse. The pH was still 5.5. I did some research and started thinking it was the pH. Maybe, the low pH was causing the deficiencies and the nute burn was due to ... too many nutes.
So I removed some of the solution and diluted with tap water. I think the temperature is under control too. Low 70F High 82F. Still no water thermometer, but it feels "OK"

So, after diluting the solution:
  • pH - 6.2
  • PPM - 500
  • 1 hour after I noticed some of the leaves un-curling
  • Noticed some new growth at the roots; probably due to water temp rising again
Today we had snow so no work. I looked at plants and they seem to be ok I guess. Probably still recuperating and/or in shock from all the quick changes I made. The pH is still 6.2.

Yea so to my original question. Why won't my pH fluctuate? Im thinking that that is what caused this whole ordeal. The pH was low 5's for awhile mixed with cold environment.
Is there something I can do? Add?

My setup:

  • RDWC w/ 3 plants. 2 in 1 tote. 1 in another. 2 air stones in 1, 1 in the other.
  • Pump moves the water thru both totes to a "waterfall" inside res, which is connected to totes.
  • Probably close to 20 gallons of water when full
  • Lots of DO from stones and waterfall
  • 600W MH running 24/7

My solution:

  • General Hydroponics pH down
  • Hydrodynamics Growth Technology Ionic nutrients. Grow and Bloom
  • Peroxide
  • My water comes out the tap 8 pH 70 ppm.
Ok I think that is everything. Any feedback or thoughts would be awesome.
Just get it between 5.6 and 6.2 and stop worrying about a swing. If it gets above or below those then change it. My Rez is always at 5.8-5.9. Never moves. Plants are more than happy.
 

Tjs1989

Member
Ok so I changed my mind again..well..the guy at the local hydro store changed my mind.

He had some decent info which made sense to me. He basically said that benes are a waste in hydro and will cause you to have to do more rez changes bc of gunk buildup.
He claims that the high salinity solution will quickly kill the benes and will cause an organic slimy buildup in the rez; dead benes.
He recommended I stay the sterile route because it's better for hydro.

..and he sold me a product called UC Roots. It's supposed to last longer than peroxide I guess.

I did argue with him for about 30 min, bringing up all the points I could remember from forums.
I tried the natural argument; the roots have the benes outside so why not put them inside. He said you're not growing naturally so it's different.
I tried to tell him that the "slime" he was referring to was actually not bad and that the roots would like it. He said no, it's only gonna encourage rot.

My plants do look a lot better tho. They are growing again. I also super cropped a lot of branches on 2 of them which have already recovered and look good.

pH still hasn't changed. Staying very steady.
PPM has dropped since I diluted the solution to 500. It is now 470.
Water temp is cool.

I also set up a ghetto humidifier using a cup of water and a t shirt. So humidity is staying 30-45.

Now that all this has happened, I think my humidity also played a big role in the problems.
The way I see it: the humidity was very low, which caused the plants to drink a lot, which caused high nutrient intake, which caused nutrient burn and nutrient lock out, which caused all the deficiencies and yellowing and curling of leaves.

What do u guys think?
 

Lordhooha

Well-Known Member
Ok so I changed my mind again..well..the guy at the local hydro store changed my mind.

He had some decent info which made sense to me. He basically said that benes are a waste in hydro and will cause you to have to do more rez changes bc of gunk buildup.
He claims that the high salinity solution will quickly kill the benes and will cause an organic slimy buildup in the rez; dead benes.
He recommended I stay the sterile route because it's better for hydro.

..and he sold me a product called UC Roots. It's supposed to last longer than peroxide I guess.

I did argue with him for about 30 min, bringing up all the points I could remember from forums.
I tried the natural argument; the roots have the benes outside so why not put them inside. He said you're not growing naturally so it's different.
I tried to tell him that the "slime" he was referring to was actually not bad and that the roots would like it. He said no, it's only gonna encourage rot.

My plants do look a lot better tho. They are growing again. I also super cropped a lot of branches on 2 of them which have already recovered and look good.

pH still hasn't changed. Staying very steady.
PPM has dropped since I diluted the solution to 500. It is now 470.
Water temp is cool.

I also set up a ghetto humidifier using a cup of water and a t shirt. So humidity is staying 30-45.

Now that all this has happened, I think my humidity also played a big role in the problems.
The way I see it: the humidity was very low, which caused the plants to drink a lot, which caused high nutrient intake, which caused nutrient burn and nutrient lock out, which caused all the deficiencies and yellowing and curling of leaves.

What do u guys think?
Well to each his own you seen my roots you should have shown him those. If your changing the res out all the time yah they won’t do much. Most guys though at the grow stores want you to purchase stuff esp from them. But your plants are in order and your happy and your plants. What I always tell ppl if it works for you then good. Everything else is merely a suggestion.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
I only go to the "hydro store" when i need rockwool , panda film, geow stones shit like that that i dont wana try and order
 
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