Opinion on my set-up idea

GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Hey do you guys think 3x H_inFlux L09's gonna be enough in my 2x2 tent? I'm planning to run them with ELG-150-42A. Which gives me the option to use same driver for new oncoming https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/led-modules/industrial-light-module/horticulture-linear/# So I can just switch 3x L09's with 3 of these on same frame and driver if I decide to. I can also add the 4th strip later on and run them more efficent if I wanted to.(almost 0.9amps at max) Is this a good idea?

By the way am I better of going with 1' strips instead? With 2' ones last few diodes on each end gonna be near the tents wall so wondering if its wasted light.
 
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Major Blazer

Well-Known Member
Enough is relative to your goals. I don't have any need to blast my veg tent so I keep the wattage real low, 35w from 4 1' F-strips.
 

GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Enough is relative to your goals. I don't have any need to blast my veg tent so I keep the wattage real low, 35w from 4 1' F-strips.
Thats gonna be my flower tent. My veg tent is smaller and I will run single cree cxb3590 3500k with 1.4amps in that one.

1' build compared to 2' build (used the real dimensions) :
build.png
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hey do you guys think 3x H_inFlux L09's gonna be enough in my 2x2 tent? I'm planning to run them with ELG-150-42A. Which gives me the option to use same driver for new oncoming https://www.samsung.com/led/lighting/led-modules/industrial-light-module/horticulture-linear/# So I can just switch 3x L09's with 3 of these on same frame and driver if I decide to. I can also add the 4th strip later on and run them more efficent if I wanted to.(almost 0.9amps at max) Is this a good idea?

By the way am I better of going with 1' strips instead? With 2' ones last few diodes on each end gonna be near the tents wall so wondering if its wasted light.

Yeah, its close to the walls with 2footers at least on two ends but gives you much better distribution and this means you can use them with less distance. With only 10-12" distance there is not really much light loss..

The other questions is already answered in the other thread, no need to post the same question again and again.
 

GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Yeah, its close to the walls with 2footers at least on two ends but gives you much better distribution and this means you can use them with less distance. With only 10-12" distance there is not really much light loss..

The other questions is already answered in the other thread, no need to post the same question again and again.
Thanks. I think you might be wrong with the answer on other thread though.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Thanks. I think you might be wrong with the answer on other thread though.
Really? What do you mean is wrong?
Yeah, an ELG-150-42A have a voltage regulator which means you can set the voltage higher but the driver would switch in CV mode. For CC mode you need to stay within the CC area. The CV mode is for DC to DC drivers like Meanwell's LDD's.
The other thing is, when you use it this way you'll not get the full current of the driver. An ELG-150-42 has up to 3,6amps with 42v and when you set the voltage to let's say 44,6v you will get only ~3,35amps ..

That's the corresponding part of the datasheet...
Screenshot_20190115-071057.png

And if you keep the case temps of the strips lower like tested in the datasheet(55°C) the voltage would be even higher than 44,6v.. Cold start voltage can be a high as 49volts..Screenshot_20190115-071727.png

Do you still think I'm wrong...?
 

GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Ohh I see I see. So I don't need to adjust the voltage when I'm in C.C area because it's either acting like C.C or C.V according to some threshold. It can't do both at the same time.

By the way I said you MIGHT be wrong. That's why I included the might there.

What about the new horti strips though. Their typical voltage 43.1v and typical current 1.2amps @25°C case temp

It says ELG-150-48A has 24v-48v C.C area. Does that mean it acts like a regular C.C driver as long as what it's running is in that voltage range?

That means I can even get ELG-200-48 keep the current dimmed a little bit and have enough useable current for 4th or even 5th strip upgrade. And still can run Horti strips? Please correct me if I'm wrong.
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Ohh I see I see. So I don't need to adjust the voltage when I'm in C.C area because it's either acting like C.C or C.V according to some threshold. It can't do both at the same time.

By the way I said you MIGHT be wrong. That's why I included the might there.

What about the new horti strips though. Their typical voltage 43.1v and typical current 1.2amps @25°C case temp

It says ELG-150-48A has 24v-48v C.C area. Does that mean it acts like a regular C.C driver as long as what it's running is in that voltage range?

That means I can even get ELG-200-48 keep the current dimmed a little bit and have enough useable current for 4th or even 5th strip upgrade. And still can run Horti strips? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

Yepp! There is no need to adjust the voltage when in CC mode. They are delivered with set standard voltage!

Yeah, you could use an ELG-200-48 and add more H-influx strips later. But it's impossible to mix the new horti strips with H-influx in a parallel setup because of the different forward voltage. The strips with the lower voltage(new horti's in this case) would shine much brighter. You could calculate a resistor and add one to each strip but that's too complicated IMO.

To mix them you would need an ELG-200-C700 and connect them all in series. But these strips are limited to 50v each so a series circuit is also impossible. It would work but it would exceed the strip limits and would cause a voltage droop. I've tried to use 10pcs 23v F-strips in series with an HLG-240H-C1050B and instead of 265w at the wall I got only ~210w. Its because of the 1oz copper layer these strips use. With 3 or 4oz it would be for sure no problem..
So the easiest way would be to use two drivers, one for each type of strips, or simply stay with H-influx strips.

The new horti's have btw. a 5150°k spectrum and are based on 5600°k and 660nm diodes. That's more like a greenhouse spectrum and sub-optimal for indoor growing.

I would simply add more H-influx strips and drive them lower to reach a better efficiency. You can also add a string of deep-red diodes to increase the efficiency. Osrams new Square series in deep red delivers up to 3,91μMol/J(W) and are even better than Sammy's deep-reds.

My old F-strips are running with ~450mA(50mA per diode) to reach 2,7μMol/J. With 700mA H-influx L09 strips would reach the same efficiency. And when you add a few deepreds the over all efficiency would increase even more.

If you still want a few coolwhite strips take H-influx. You need the same voltage on each strip for parallel circuits otherwise you'll get thermal runaways..
 
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GentleCaveman

Well-Known Member
Yepp! There is no need to adjust the voltage when in CC mode. They are delivered with set standard voltage!

Yeah, you could use an ELG-200-48 and add more H-influx strips later. But it's impossible to mix the new horti strips with H-influx in a parallel setup because of the different forward voltage. The strips with the lower voltage(new horti's in this case) would shine much brighter. You could calculate a resistor and add one to each strip but that's too complicated IMO.

To mix them you would need an ELG-200-C700 and connect them all in series. But these strips are limited to 50v each so a series circuit is also impossible. It would work but it would exceed the strip limits and would cause a voltage droop. I've tried to use 10pcs 23v F-strips in series with an HLG-240H-C1050B and instead of 265w at the wall I got only ~210w. Its because of the 1oz copper layer these strips use. With 3 or 4oz it would be for sure no problem..
So the easiest way would be to use two drivers, one for each type of strips, or simply stay with H-influx strips.

The new horti's have btw. a 5150°k spectrum and are based on 5600°k and 660nm diodes. That's more like a greenhouse spectrum and sub-optimal for indoor growing.

I would simply add more H-influx strips and drive them lower to reach a better efficiency. You can also add a string of deep-red diodes to increase the efficiency. Osrams new Square series in deep red delivers up to 3,91μMol/J(W) and are even better than Sammy's deep-reds.

My old F-strips are running with ~450mA(50mA per diode) to reach 2,7μMol/J. With 700mA H-influx L09 strips would reach the same efficiency. And when you add a few deepreds the over all efficiency would increase even more.

If you still want a few coolwhite strips take H-influx. You need the same voltage on each strip for parallel circuits otherwise you'll get thermal runaways..
What I was talking about on Horti culture subject was changing the H_inFluxes with new Horti strips. Not adding Horti strips to H_inFluxes. I should've explained better, my fault.

ELG-200-48 gives me option to run my strips @2.08amps at lowest. Which means 3 strips : 0.69amps, 4 strips: 0.52amps and 5 strips: 0.41amps each.

So I think I should go with 3x L09's and a ELG-200-48, after that add few deep red lights and run them with seperate driver when I have the enough money Do you agree with me ?
 
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