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New 200 watt vero 29 build

Discussion in 'LED and other Lighting' started by Dr.StickyFingers, Aug 17, 2015.

  1.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    Untitledr.jpg What's up everyone. So I'm super excited I got 5 vero 29s and a meanwell hlg 185h c 1050 coming in about a week or so. I plan on using thermal adhesive and kapton tape to mount them on a 7.28 x 7.28 inch heatsink from heatsink usa cooled by this fan
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XISTXM/ref=pd_aw_sim_147_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Y8NTCTB5FHB7J17JBRJ
    For wiring I'm using the ezmate connectors and wagos.

    All my past projects have been rather small tinkering with v 18s and 10s for friends. Being so I drew up a wiring diagram because I really want to get this right so if you guys could look it over that'd be great. I've never grounded a heatsink but since it's high voltage and from what I've read on here it seems like a good idea I just have no idea of going about it. Here's the diagram
     
    robincnn and salmonetin like this.
  2.  
    Sxott

    Sxott Well-Known Member

    I would not use adhesive because once you find out that they should be spread out instead of bunched together, it will be too late. Their stuck.
     
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  3.  
    dandyrandy

    dandyrandy Well-Known Member

    I used adhesive but I used CPU heatsink fan combos. Then I have a frame which they set in. Modular. You can vary spacing by moving them on the bar. May not suit your build. That's the nice thing about diy. You can build the light to suit the space.
     
    coolbreez1, robincnn, Abiqua and 3 others like this.
  4.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    Hey thanks for the heads up but I'm not spreading them out on purpose. I thot about it but that means making a fixture out of 90 degree metal angles, more drilling, mounting, more heatsinks, and more wiring. I plan to build a reflector out of hammered aluminum so I don't lose too much light out to the sides. I also have a good amount of vertical space
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2015
  5.  
    Rahz

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    You can use a flat bottom screw to terminate a ground wire on the heat sink.
     
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  6.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    Sorry I'm not great with electrical terminology. So pretty much screw in the flat bottom somewhere on the heatsink until the wires are sandwiched between metal or....
     
  7.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    Also can anyone tell me if they see a problem with my wiring? I'd hate to lose a couple hundred :P
     
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  8.  
    stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member

    A tad of " generalisation" there,probably ...

    If the driver(s) are encased in plastic case,then are "Class II " electronic devices .Double isolation ,no mains earth wire needed .Of course no heat sink "mains earthing " ....
    (BTW- and not "grounding " since it has another meaning ...It means bringing
    a circuit down low, to a "dynamic potentional " of zero Volts and mainly it is used on DC circuitry ..
    "Earthed " (connected to ..planet Earth ) is the expression for AC ,not "Grounded" ( brought low to a "ground" level of 0 VDC ) which mainly is used in DC circuitry ...
    Anyway ..Details ....


    If now the drivers are not encased at all ( open frame boards ) or encased in a metallic case ( steel or aluminium ,usually )
    they are ,most probabbly "Class I " .Single isolation.Needs earthing.

    Now in that case ,there are two sub-cases ...
    if the drivers are placed remote ,away from the heat sink,
    and only the DC wiring ,which powers the LED /COBS goes to the heat sink ..
    Then grounding the heat sink ,has no reason ...
    Even if the DC wiring ,carries lots of Amps ,under a high dynamic difference ( > 100 VDC ) ,even if any of the DC wires shorts with the "earthed " heat sink ,nothing is going to happen ,which will affect severely the users safety ....


    But from the other hand ...
    If such driver(s) ( open frame or metal encased ) are placed on the heatsink or on any type of metallic structure
    which conducts directly with the heatsink ,EVERYTHING made out of metal -and not just the heat sink - shouyld be mains "earthed" .Even the smallest screw or nut ...

    In such case of placement ,AC circuitry is still isolated from any metal part of the structure .
    BUt since it is placed within/on/in/at the structure ,there's always the danger ,that under the most weird situation - aka "shit happens " - where was I ? Oh ,yes ..under those weird situations( severe impacts cable/wiring isolation destruction /deterioration ) ,there's the danger of AC wiring to come in contact with any metallic part of the structure.
    If it is "earthed" ,the mains fuses will trip ,either "LIVE/LINE " or "NEUTRAL" will contact "EARTH" .
    The party is on at the fuse -box ....


    Yeap..

    I know too much blah -blah ....
    MAybe even difficult to digest ,by the average stoner ...


    Just keep in mind ....

    "Open frame or metal encased LED drivers ,if are installed on /at / within /inside a metallic structure ...
    (profile bars ,rods ,heat sink (s) , angles ,sheets ,screws ,bolts ,nuts ,washers ,cases , and more ),
    then everything made out of metal ,should contact Earth ,the soil ,the planet .

    "Mains Earthed."

    Otherwise ....

    ....
    Well...

    Shit happens ...
    ....


    Cheers.
    :peace:


     
  9.  
    Rahz

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    Exactly.
     
  10.  
    stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member

    MY friend,I'm not trying to start an argue ...
    But part to the fact that is rather late ,the tequila and beer are having a helluva great party inside my stomach ,and the "want to take things outdoors ,to the garden " ( my sofa ,most probably ...)...
    Part to the fact that I've tried hopelessly to "kill" their party with ...well... more than a couple of nice ,thick ,tobacco filled ,
    filthy ,cancerogen ,smoked joints ....Only to make things ...more "dizzy" ...
    Part top the fact that your schematic ,brings a smile to my face ,because it reminds me ,of my 6 year old niece ,
    who ,BTW, moved to Germany ,along with her rest of the family of course ,for a better life ...

    It gets too sentimental ,I'm afraid ,can't read that schematic....
    Use a normal pen and not those color pencils ,go for straight lines and edges ,try to avoid curves on circuitry ...**


    **Then it becomes more than a "F1 circuit " ...
    " current takes the curve smoothly and then full on brakes ,as the second steep S ,comes next ..."
    It's not that I do not like it ....
    But I can't drive a F! prototype and at the same time read an electronic schematic...
    Plus the fact thatI'm not pretty good at either of them ...

    Then again ...

    I'm might be getting old ...
    ...
    Which I'm ...

    And gettin' "picky" ...

    Anyway ...

    Cheers.
     
    robincnn likes this.
  11.  
    Rahz

    Rahz Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    Curves start to get confusing the more complex the circuit is. Looks fine to me though.
     
  12.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    LOL did you pretty much just say I draw like a 6 year old?
    Well jokes on you because my friends in high school art class use to tell me my drawings look like a retarded monkey finger painted with its own feces
    ...the feels...

    Anyways

    I know your pretty damn smart when it comes to this stuff along with supra and others but All I could comprehend enough to take away is that your fucked up on tequila, beer, and spliffs on your couch...

    Also I am not smart enough to understand what you said about earthing the heatsink and driver...
     
  13.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    Thanks I'll try going in straight lines next time
     
    salmonetin likes this.
  14.  
    stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member

    Would that be a good reason for me to rephrase both "What I've stated " and "What you've stated " ,in a question ?

    Will I be the winner If I was to place a bet that for $555 you 're pretty sober ..
    At least wy more sober than myself ...

    What I can see right now ,looks like my niece's " art " ....
    Best case ,I could say ,it looks some weird anatomy or occult design ,of the Da Vinci era ...
    Showing the etheric energy that flies from our liver to somewhere ,when planet Jupiter squares with Uranus and Mars ....
    Shit ...Yeap ,I know ...
    I ' m too old for this .And I'm picky ...
    Rectangle boxes ,straight lines ...
    Otherwise I get lost ,somewhere in the way ...
    And those color pencils ...
    Bringin' back all those different memories ...
    Which in trurn ,remind how old I've reached to be ...

    BTW...
    Tequila and beers ,want to get "outside " ...
    can't stop 'em ...
    Too lat..

    :spew:
     
  15.  
    stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member

    Two basic questions ....

    1 ) Your driver is encased on a metallic case ?

    2) Does the driver at it's AC side has three wires sticking out ?
    (I surely hope so ... )

    Make it ,three questions ...
    3 ) Are you going to place that driver ,close or quite near to the heat sink ?


    Answer like that ....
    Y -Y - N
    or

    Y -Y - Y ....

    I can still understand a Y for Yes and a N for No ...

    Then I'll tell you what you can do further on .....more or less ...

    BTW ...
    Good luck ,nice design .

    Cheers....

    (Shit ..I just hate that acidic aftertaste .of the "violent unloadings " ...
    ethyl alcohol & hydrochloric acid ...
    And the peanuts ......Awful... )

    Cheers.
     
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  16.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    I don't know If I should feel offended or not
    Y-Y-Yand thanks it's slightly based off one of yours but is just not clean at all and no encased in anything...
     
  17.  
    robincnn

    robincnn Well-Known Member Rollitup Advertiser

    I think i get your point ... 6.5625 x10^18 electrons per second

    Don't be offended. SDS helps like DIY auditor . Now your light will be UL FCC certified by the time you finish :bigjoint:
     
    salmonetin likes this.
  18.  
    Dr.StickyFingers

    Dr.StickyFingers Well-Known Member

    Oh I know.. let me rephrase...

    I feel like the guy with his thumb up his butt in a room full of smart people XD

    But I do welcome the knowledge I'm just confused on the form it comes in lol
     
  19.  
    stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member

    Then ,in such case I will advice you to follow some ...ehem ..."guidances " ....

    1 ) Use the "EARTH AC " wire,located at the AC input of the driver ,
    ( usually colored yellow with green stripes ...ehh ...

    is the zebra a black horse with white stripes or a white horse with black stripes ? ...

    Ok ..It might be a green colored with yellow stripes wire ..Here in EU ,it's like that .. ..

    Ok ..Use that wire and find a way to connect with it ,EVERYTHING that is made out of metal .
    Of course it all be connected with the wall's "EARTH " pin .
    .( the one on the middle ,in the US ? )

    Aim for earthing the large structure parts firstly i.e. heat sink (s),rods ,bars ,chains ,facets ,panels ,etc ...
    Then by using "bridge wiring " ,-a single piece of wiring that connects two parts - you might want to connect
    any smaller metallic parts that are not contacting the earthed structure otherwise ,cause they are epoxy glued and not riveted or screwed on place .You never know ...

    Any metallic parts that have the potentional / theres a single possibility present ,
    of both contacting/shorting with with any the AC wires and at the same time contacting easily with your skin ,
    even under the most rare,extreme and weird situations ever ,then those metallic parts should be grounded..-
    For avoiding any possible fire hazards from short circuits and
    avoiding possible electocution incidents with severe third ° burns and/or fatal outcomes.

    Make also sure ,that DC Ground aka 0V aka Com (common Ground ) aka "minus side " ,
    is not contacting any Earthed metallic part of the whole structure ...
    Needless to state that the same also is true , for the +VDC aka "positive side / pole " of any DC circuitry involved on the light.

    For Example : LED OUT + and LED OUT - should never contact and conduct any earthed metal parts ..
    Heat sink ,incuded ...

    Abnormal operation of the drivers could occur ,some nice small "shocks" every time you touch the structure ,some fried eggs maybe ....There are rumors ,that say that this is actually ,the way to invite a poltergeist in your place ..
    Just short AC earth with DC ground ....

    Others say ,that if 666 folks do that ,at exactly the same time ,while standing on their one foot ,naked & facing East ,
    then the seventh seal will break ,we will hear trompetes from the sky ,and the four knights will come down to Earth to
    saw chaos ....Or smthng likethat ,I think ....

    Just try to avoid that ,too ...





    Cheers.
     
  20.  
    stardustsailor

    stardustsailor Well-Known Member

    LOL !!!

    Wait till you encounter Guod ,for example .......
    :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
    I'm an angel ....

    [​IMG]


    Cheers.
     
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