greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
also make sure it's not bound with molasses
making soil need help
- Thread starter darkzero
- Start date
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I would HIGHLY recommend NOT using the potassium sulfate, you'll never ever need that much potassium and K is in a LOT of out organic nutrients.
Potassium is in a lot of stuff brother, neem meal, kelp meal, crab meal, alfalfa, and of course BSM.
I would add crab meal, and subtract the Epsom, bat guano, blood meal, and d-lime.
I have little experience with rice hulls as aeration but I imagine it's similar to vermiculite. I'd add biochar, pumice, and volcanic rock.
The mychorrizhae doesn't do much, if anything, if it's not applied on the actual roots.
And you should add some peat too man.
TBoneJack
Well-Known Member
Do you have a link to your soil recipe? I'm always open to new things.
Thanks.
Sparehead
Well-Known Member
I use this recipe minus the neem seed meal as I've had trouble getting it. I have excellent results with it. I started with subs recipe but have moved to this one at the moment. I am trying to make the shift into no till living soil. That is where its at
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
her you go man.
----
first if you are making from scratch stick to the 33/33/33 mix.
33% compost/vermicompost (homemade if possible) I like a 50/50 mix of both leaf compost and EWC
33% aeration
33% peat
the per cubic foot (about 7.5 gallons)
add one cup of the following
neem meal, kelp meal, crab meal.
then per cubic foot add HALF cup
insect meal (mashed up dried insect chicken feed)
alfalfa meal
fish bone meal
that's all for the nutes
then the minerals
3-4 cups per cubic foot, I like a mix of different minerals, if you are re-using your soil maybe avoid azomite.
must have one cup of oyster flour per cubic foot to control peats acidity, in addition to the oyster flour, you want 2-4 TOTAL cups of minerals, rock phosphates, gypsum, basalt, granite, (although it can be radioactive.....) greensand or langbeinite if you are re-using your soil, but don't expect much from them at first
that's all the normal shit.
it's in my amendments where the difference is (maybe the insect meal too), biochar, pumice, volcanic rock, and rotten tree log chunks are what I use.
of the 33% aeration I go 50% of that as standard conventional aeration, volcanic rock or pumice, then 25% biochar and 25% rotten wood chunks.... in fact i'm pretty sure I have more than 33% aeration in my mix if you account for all the rotten wood chunk, but damn, I tell ya my plants LOVE this mix, and it retains the PERFECT amount of water.
if you have any doubt add more aeration, never hurts, especially if it's biochar or rotten wood.
on top of all that add a cup of oyster shells (again chicken feed area) per cubic foot
---- if you are growing outside, try very hard to find some rotten tree logs, they condition the soil perfectly and the soil will absorb more water when you water them, which is always a good thing
TBoneJack
Well-Known Member
I've had excellent results with this mix as well.
I also started with Sub's recipe, and didn't like it.
darkzero
Well-Known Member
Just updating progress on my super soil cook all earth worms are now soil that were in there cant even tell i put anything in there as it has been devoured. Just added about a cup more of kelp meal, gypsum, crab shell meal, and marine cuisine mixed well added water, and turned all the soil to mix evenly only been maybe 8 days maybe 22 more to go or may let it set another 40 days, getting heat mat soon for it.
greasemonkeymann
Well-Known Member
I don't think you'll need a heat mat, I never have had to.
Course I grow in CA...
Just make sure to not overwater it, you barely need any water at all, another idea is to plant some soil-starting seeds in the soil, and that way you can visually see when the soil is aged enough for your plants. the sprouts will take off when the soils' amendments become available
