Lm561c Strips & SunPlus 35 design/manufacture help

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I am just watching. I have no side in this samsung led board. I have plenty to keep me busy and happy just sharing what I see out there. There is always the next best thing coming along. I have found that it is as much lumens/watt as it is light spectrum for what you are doing. Total picture we see less light than we get spectrum-wise
 

ThaiBaby1

Well-Known Member
Cost per strip is less for the M and H series, but look at cost per lumen:

-----------------------------------M-Series---H-Series--F-Series
Lumens @ max power-----3510----------4260-----19075
Cost/strip per Digikey--------9.93----------19.15----48.41
Lumens/$------------------------353-----------222-------394
Lumens/W @ max power----127-----------161------151

These are all using the 3000k version in each series. Lumens @ max power is from the datasheet for each series. Cost is price/strip in the pricing bracket for the quantity that could be purchased with about a $500 spend (slight stretch since OP was budgeting $400 for strips) on Digikey. Lumens/W is also from the datasheets at maximum power.

If you use the lumen output at "typical" power for each series, the lumens/$ is even more in favor of the F-Series because it is designed to run at close to maximum right out of the box.

Having said all that, I do think that the M, H or Bridgelux EB Series may all be optimal choices in a different situation given the users unique needs.
I dont have the time or inclination to look it up but those lumen numbers are screwed up no way the f series lumen output is 500 percent more than the H series. The bottom line is that if you want to spend top dollar for the best and brightest get the f's, a more practical choice is the others.
 

ChefKimbo

Well-Known Member
Lol people love to stand buy their purchases...

FTW, the 304 QB can be ran at upto 70 watts without a heatsink.

I do like that these new boards run at a much lower voltage than the 304, but they are old tech now compared to the new 288s from HLG.
 
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CobKits

Well-Known Member
cant keep up with it all. its a nearly full time job answering cob questions all day. i support all of Vitaly's efforts and wish him the best hes doing some really innovative stuff. i dont think of people as rivals, most vendors here get along pretty well with each other and do business together or have in the past.
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
for someone doing that for a living you are quite uninformed about your potential rivals...
cant keep up with it all. its a nearly full time job answering cob questions all day. i support all of Vitaly's efforts and wish him the best hes doing some really innovative stuff. i dont think of people as rivals, most vendors here get along pretty well with each other and do business together or have in the past.
It's way too early in the game to start talking shit about the competition.

Best to work together to build the market and take it away from the light bulb makers first.

Bashing everyone else's products didn't get @Greengenes707 very far, after all...
 

bakedPotatoe

Active Member
Lol every time some 1 posts a new link to these boards that hlg and now another do there all gone......
Ffs stop buying them all..so us peasants can at least buy a few....
Now back to making even better boards please.....
I want to get rid of my hps set up.....
 

3GT

Well-Known Member
Lol every time some 1 posts a new link to these boards that hlg and now another do there all gone......
Ffs stop buying them all..so us peasants can at least buy a few....
Now back to making even better boards please.....
I want to get rid of my hps set up.....
https://www.arrow.com/en/products/si-b8u341b20ww/samsung-electronics

They're 3500k 4ft strips as the 3000k has sold out (back order) but for $390 you get 25 strips. They're cheaper and more versatile.. Just more DIYing to them.
 
Can you elaborate which situations would want which strips?

Sure, PicklesRus, I’ll give it a shot.

The Samsung F-Series Gen3 will be kick-ass parts for the amount of light they generate at high efficacy and low cost (on a lumens/$ basis). The cooler K-temp strips can generate more than 20,000 lumens/strip. At the soft side of the power range, they run up to 199 lm/w. The ease of building and operating specs will make them desirable for many users. Still, they may not be the best choice of light strips in every situation. The F-Series is designed to operate near maximum power all the time. The datasheet gives its operating specs as 43.7V min, 46.0V typical, 48.3V max at 2.24A (no range at all on amperage is specified). That is a tight range compared to the other strips. From a practical standpoint, there has to be some wiggle room in the amperage spec, but I don’t have the knowledge or experience to know what it might be. I suspect that the F-Series will not be dimmable over as great a range as some of the other strips, which may be a significant problem for different users. In any case, these parts will be easier to match to constant voltage/constant current drivers, such as the HLG-240H-48A, than to constant current drivers, such as the HLG-240H-C2100. If you are trying to redeploy a bunch of CC drivers from a COB build, you may be challenged to get the right match. Fortunately, the parts with a single-row of diodes and the 560mm parts all scale proportionately to the 2.24A part, so there is some flexibility in mixing/matching serial/parallel configuration to an available driver. The smaller parts aren’t quite as good on a lumens/$ basis.

The OP is considering the Samsung M-Series. While the M-Series isn’t the latest tech any more, it is still a good value based on price and performance. And, unlike the F-Series, it is available now. Same with the Bridgelux EB Series. There is currently an excellent, active thread on the EBs (darn forum won’t let the new guy, me, link to it). I really like the EBs for their range of output and high lumens/$. For example, the 3000k, 4ft part (part number 976-1502-ND on Digikey) has a “typical” output of 4,820 lumens @ 31.0W and 156 lm/w. You can push it to 8,724 lumens @ 65.2W at a still-decent 134 lm/w. At the Digikey price of $14.83/strip, using max power, that works out to 588 lm/$ - pretty awesome for any LED product. They also dim down to 1,412 lumens @ 8.4W and 168 lm/w. If you need that range of control, the EBs are hard to beat.
 

PicklesRus

Well-Known Member
Sure, PicklesRus, I’ll give it a shot.

The Samsung F-Series Gen3 will be kick-ass parts for the amount of light they generate at high efficacy and low cost (on a lumens/$ basis). The cooler K-temp strips can generate more than 20,000 lumens/strip. At the soft side of the power range, they run up to 199 lm/w. The ease of building and operating specs will make them desirable for many users. Still, they may not be the best choice of light strips in every situation. The F-Series is designed to operate near maximum power all the time. The datasheet gives its operating specs as 43.7V min, 46.0V typical, 48.3V max at 2.24A (no range at all on amperage is specified). That is a tight range compared to the other strips. From a practical standpoint, there has to be some wiggle room in the amperage spec, but I don’t have the knowledge or experience to know what it might be. I suspect that the F-Series will not be dimmable over as great a range as some of the other strips, which may be a significant problem for different users. In any case, these parts will be easier to match to constant voltage/constant current drivers, such as the HLG-240H-48A, than to constant current drivers, such as the HLG-240H-C2100. If you are trying to redeploy a bunch of CC drivers from a COB build, you may be challenged to get the right match. Fortunately, the parts with a single-row of diodes and the 560mm parts all scale proportionately to the 2.24A part, so there is some flexibility in mixing/matching serial/parallel configuration to an available driver. The smaller parts aren’t quite as good on a lumens/$ basis.

The OP is considering the Samsung M-Series. While the M-Series isn’t the latest tech any more, it is still a good value based on price and performance. And, unlike the F-Series, it is available now. Same with the Bridgelux EB Series. There is currently an excellent, active thread on the EBs (darn forum won’t let the new guy, me, link to it). I really like the EBs for their range of output and high lumens/$. For example, the 3000k, 4ft part (part number 976-1502-ND on Digikey) has a “typical” output of 4,820 lumens @ 31.0W and 156 lm/w. You can push it to 8,724 lumens @ 65.2W at a still-decent 134 lm/w. At the Digikey price of $14.83/strip, using max power, that works out to 588 lm/$ - pretty awesome for any LED product. They also dim down to 1,412 lumens @ 8.4W and 168 lm/w. If you need that range of control, the EBs are hard to beat.
:clap:
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I have seen chilledled's boards and that's exactly what I want to create DIY? although his water cooling isn't what I want.. I plan on having a slim ally tank all of this mounts to. If he had water galleries running through his heatsink I would consider them.

Price and maximum efficiency are my top priority. Don't care how much work is required to build it. Which is why I want to know if I can manually attach those 5630 chips onto something or if contacting a manufacturer to build/attach them is needed.

Cheers
Check out my thread and see how I did my version of chilled boards called GrowGreen boards 200w each board
 
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