light rail

skyblazer

Active Member
The theory is really quite solid on this. Greater area of coverage, more evenly dispersed light so more consistent yield across the greater number of plants.

I will be setting up a light rail this weekend though so I'll find out soon enough!
 

holmes

Well-Known Member
The theory is really quite solid on this. Greater area of coverage, more evenly dispersed light so more consistent yield across the greater number of plants.

I will be setting up a light rail this weekend though so I'll find out soon enough!
i wish it was that simple, i have not used one, i think its a great concept, but i have read many negative things about it. such as it decreased yeild per plant, and only gave a very minimal gain on the extra plant. and that it was a pain in the ass to set up, especially if you air cool them.
 

norcalkronic

Well-Known Member
I can only speak from what i have read because i have not compared the difference but heres what i think.

Light rails produce enough product to justify the cost of a light rail and the cost you spend on electricity if used correctly. Many people, such as marijuana guru subcool, have reported an increase in yield per light after implementing a light mover. Light tracks and movers grow plants with lighting much more similar to the movement in the sun. Plant and nug structure is more uniform and round, like outdoor colas, because all sides of almost every nug receive direct light. With a SOG, SCROG or properly trained canopy light rails are the most efficient. Do not make the mistake of placing your light too close just because the movement allows for it heat wise. When light intensity increases a plants over all production only increases efficiently for so long. In fact, if the intensity is high enough the plants do not grow at all. Make sure you are covering at least a 4x4 area per 1000w light of even canopy at any given time. You will see an increase in yield.

Use common sense. If you plan to cover a large area with a few number of plants you have to grow them into it. don't use the light mover until you can fill the required area.
 

norcalkronic

Well-Known Member
i wish it was that simple, i have not used one, i think its a great concept, but i have read many negative things about it. such as it decreased yeild per plant, and only gave a very minimal gain on the extra plant. and that it was a pain in the ass to set up, especially if you air cool them.
A decreased yield per plant is inevitable unless you veg your plants longer and wider.

The light mover may decrease your yield per plant but if used correctly can give you an increase in yield per light.

It will also increase your total yield per kilowatt of electricity spent during both veg and flower, however the only way to accomplish this is to increase the number of plants you grow.

I find the hydrofarm track to be very easy to install.

I have also designed an air cooling system that works quite well. flexible ducting compresses and expands very well which allows for many options.
 

holmes

Well-Known Member
sorry, do you plan on covering 8 feet with a 6 foot track?(bad idea i think), maybe if you add a lamp on, and move two on a track for an 8 foot length
heres a link to a guy who used light movers, he had 2 600's on a mover covering an area of 4x8, he then tried three stationary lights
his results where more total weight with the 3 lights, almost a pound more if i remember right. but he was yeilding more per watt using the light mover
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=77825&page=1&pp=15

please let us know how it works out for you
 

DIRTHAWKER

Well-Known Member
wow great find seamaiden.

actually the garden parameter is just about 6ft by 4ft in an 8ft room so the light rail would cover perfect.

I havent decided yet if im gonna go with the light rail, still gathering info...it has its pros and cons.
 

holmes

Well-Known Member
consider this, this plant requires a minimum of 50watts per square foot and up, for good quality.
a 1000 watter can cover 20 sq.ft, mathematically, it wont be even cause center light is strongest, uneven growth is expected.
now you want to cover 28sq.ft
i would use the 1000, to best make up the dark time the corners will experience, i would also use reflective material on every corner.

now are you boys gonna be air cooling these lights?
cause if not, i would install an adjust a wing reflector, covers a large area without the bullshit
 

timmmy2021

Well-Known Member
wing reflector??? i was planing on using a 600w-1000w 300cfm ext fan and 175cfm in fan. also have ac unit if it gets to hot...
 

DIRTHAWKER

Well-Known Member
Thats an interesting idea (wing reflectors) My thought on using 2 600watt hps's on movers to cover my grow (approx 5ft by 6ft) was to get optimum exposure, low heat low energy. My room is 8x8x8.. if i have plenty of air movement (fresh outside air intake fan) and other vents along with a constant exhaust fan, im thinking that i just might not have to cool the lights?
and may possibly be able to go with the wing reflectors.

basicly, my question is the same as timmys,, if you have constant exchange of air, an ac unit and low wattage (600 watt lights) would you need aircooled reflectors? I guess it depends on your climate, where im at the next 6-9 months are mid 50s to high 60s.

thougts?
 

Seamaiden

Well-Known Member
wow great find seamaiden.

actually the garden parameter is just about 6ft by 4ft in an 8ft room so the light rail would cover perfect.

I havent decided yet if im gonna go with the light rail, still gathering info...it has its pros and cons.
Not my find, DH. :oops: I nicked it, from someone else! This lady seems to really know all her plant-ee stuffness, and loves her lightmover. If I recall she said this particular one is what she has, but I can't remember whether or not she'd done some tweaks with it. One of the things that I like about it, besides more closely mimicing natural conditions, is that you wouldn't have to rotate plants so that they all get more or less equal amounts of light. That would save my back (and leave less chance for me to drop them, upside down, onto their tight and fat buds :roll: ).
 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
on the first pic of the two lights on rails sliding right past eachother... all you need to do is space those two lights over the grow area - no rails needed.

i did grow in a 7' by 7' one time with a hps 1000 and a mh 400. i used a Sun Circle to very Great effect to balance out the lighting. (vented hoods not possible with the ones that do a full rotation, while others swing around almost fully and then back again)

if money were no object and you kept the rail on a short 'run'... i'm sure it would increase the yield a bit via better penetration... but the longer the run the more i would think you'd see that loss of gain per plant.
 

DIRTHAWKER

Well-Known Member
I thought 600 watters only cover an area of 3 sq ft? that is why i thought rails would be better for this set up. being the garden perimeter is approx 5ft by 6ft.

 

DaGambler

Well-Known Member
IMO ... you'd do fine placing one lamp over each of the delineated grow area, perhaps just slightly further apart than the center of each area... plus make sure that the 'long sides' of the rectangular reflectors are parallel.
 

timmmy2021

Well-Known Member
so i went to the hydro store today ... 1000w + air cooled hood= 150$ + bulb= 60-200$ 4' light rail =105$. not as much $$ as i thought .... my area is 4'w x 7'L x 8'T

i cant find any trays 4x7
would it be a better idea to have one tray or 2???
how many plants could i fit and what would be my yeild???????????
i was thinking 3 sets of 10 plants ever 3weeks apart= 30 plants. every 3 weeks harvest once i get going.....
tell me what you guys think about this idea???
 
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