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Lets get dirty

Discussion in 'Grow Journals' started by im4satori, Mar 27, 2017.

  1.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    so im started a new journal abandoning my rockwool/dtw set up and switching over to dirt

    nothing against the hydro, I love it!
    just been doing it for years and want to try my hand and learn something new

    lighting
    flower 3- 1000 watt DE (4x12 area)
    veg 4- 400 watt T5 (4x8 area)

    12 plants... 3 under each light

    long veg with pruning/topping several times... the plan is to take clones off the plant just before she flips to 12/12 and repeat.. so the veg and clone time will be equal to the flowering time so that's about 2 weeks to clone and 6 to 7 weeks veg (the veg is a bit long but it eliminates the need to maintain a mother/donor)

    starting with clones
    pot size 6" 50/50 ocean forest/happy frog

    second/current pot size 3 gallon ocean forest

    next/last pots size 5 gallons ocean forest

    currently there in the 3 gallon containers with about 3 weeks of veg left until space opens up

    I just top fed them 1/2 tsp calcium nitrate &1/4 tsp Epsom salt 2 days ago and it was clearly to much N
    (note to self, next time only use 1/4 tsp)

    current strains all from clone

    2 lemon kush (very og kush pheno)
    2 querkle (2 phenos)
    1 sour kush
    1 og#18
    4 satoriF2 (3 phenos 18,19,21)
    2 S.A.P dank (very short blueberry muffin)
     
    Last edited: Mar 27, 2017
  2.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

  3.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    I will prune/top the taller OGK ones 1 more time about 2 weeks before 12/12
    (in about 1 week)

    and plan to transplant from 3 gallon into 5 gallon pots 1 or 2 week before 12/12
    suggestion????? is there a reason to avoid transplanting within a certain time frame before switching to 12/12?
     
  4.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

  5.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    update

    repotted into #20 smart pots

    did some bending and tied branches to take out the height and help them widen

    10 to 14 days of veg left
     
  6.  
    CaliSmokes

    CaliSmokes Well-Known Member

    ....so you can grow
     
  7.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    hello calismoke

    you come to check in on me to make sure Im not smoking rotten buds:clap:

    :peace::bigjoint:
     
  8.  
    CaliSmokes

    CaliSmokes Well-Known Member

    Lol
     
    de'green, farmerfischer and im4satori like this.
  9.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

  10.  
    CaliSmokes

    CaliSmokes Well-Known Member

    Nice ! Guess I'll have to stick around for this one.
     
    de'green and im4satori like this.
  11.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

  12.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    eggshell.JPG

    saving my eggshells and making flour
     
  13.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

  14.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

  15.  
    greasemonkeymann

    greasemonkeymann Well-Known Member

    looks good man, just don't overdo it on the eggshells, it can be done..
    they break down SO slowly, and if you are using oyster flour, crab shell, or shrimp meal you may wanna go light on it.
    it's rare that too much calcium is an issue but you don't wanna go there.
    and if you are like me, you'll find that your freezer will accumulate food for your worms faster than you can use it.
     
  16.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    if / when I use the egg shell/calcium/lime

    ittl be part of a mix not to exceed the recipe measurement
    for example if it calls for 1 cup lime... it would be 1 cup total of some combination of eggshell, oyster shell, dolomite, gypsum

    I haven't used any yet...just going to save it for when I amend
     
  17.  
    greasemonkeymann

    greasemonkeymann Well-Known Member

    hmm, well be careful there.. they do the same "job" but at different release rates, and different nutrients that accompany them.
    so even though the oyster shell and d-lime end up controlling acidity they do indeed do different things altogether.

    if you are gonna make an aged/cycled soil with compost and such you'd be better off with the oyster flour/crab meal/egg shells

    if you are amending an existing soil mix then the d-lime would be better.

    also keep in mind that the gypsum doesn't do much with the PH, at least not in like a typical liming ingredient.
    It's a lil confusing, because gypsum can alleviate extremely acidic soils

    here's a copy and paste.

    Gypsum Effects On Soil pH
    This topic can get a little confusing due to the chemistry and causes of soil acidity, and the different ways in which lime and gypsum react in the soil. The short answer is that pure gypsum will not affect the pH of the topsoil when surface applied or incorporated by typical methods. However, gypsum is able to offset some of the toxic effects of extremely acid subsoil, in some soil types. Gypsum may even increase the pH of those subsoils to some degree. These seemingly contradictory statements can be explained by the differences in the chemistry between lime and gypsum, plus the somewhat unique nature of most acid subsoils.

    Some people think that gypsum will increase soil pH. This belief is apparently based on fact that gypsum contains a significant amount of Ca. Without getting too deeply into the chemistry of lime, a short description of how lime works will help to illustrate why gypsum will not neutralize soil acid.

    Typical agricultural lime is primarily composed of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and magnesium carbonate (MgCO3). The principle acid-neutralizing power of agricultural lime is caused by the carbonate (CO3) in both the calcium carbonate (CaCO3) and magnesium carbonate (MgCO3), not so much by the Ca nor Mg. Both lime minerals work in the same way to neutralize acid. Soil acid is defined as the hydrogen ion (H+) content of the soil. To neutralize this acid, any soil amendment must either convert the H+ into another non-acidic form of H or cause the minerals which generate the H+ to stop or slow that process. Carbonates act directly upon the H+ by causing it to combine with carbon dioxide (CO2) to form water (see illustration). Since gypsum does not change the form of soil H+ there is no change in soil pH.

    hers another good read on it.
    In my mind gypsum is great to use, but only if you do so astutely.
    Great source of sulfur, if you don't have it elsewhere.
    good for calcium too, but most amended soils don't need that

    For the record i don't use gypsum, but it's only because i have calcium in a lot of my inputs.
    sulfur too.

    Heres another read on it.

    http://www.gardenguides.com/108474-gypsum-vs-lime-soil.html
     
  18.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    on the egg shell I understand what your saying about the release rate varying

    in my amndments

    I chose the ph adjusting lime use in the build a new soil recipe to offset the peat

    but I chose gypsum (and crab meal) intentionally in the re-amendment because it, gypsum, doesn't affect the soil ph

    currently my soil is about ph 7.0 when tested
    and im watering with ph 7.3 well water
    so I don't know that I need to use ph adjusting lime in the re-amendment on an indoor grow that's not being soaked with low ph acid rain

    also this fox farm soil is clearly low on calcium from the bag

    I also noticed...the build a soil site also eliminates the lime and uses gypsum in its place for the re-amendment mix

    does that seem to hold water????
     
  19.  
    714steadyeddie

    714steadyeddie Well-Known Member

    Nice grow op and killer strains. Are you trying to go the organic route im assuming ?
    That worm bins looks like it will do the job. I want to make one as well.

    I'm subbed for this ride.
     
  20.  
    im4satori

    im4satori Well-Known Member

    yes
    im going organic

    that's not to say I wont use salt fertilizers if I end up with a def and need a quick response fix

    my ultimate goal is to not need the chem fertilizers... but until I get a handle on it I will lean on whats familiar before suffering thru issues.... so for now its use them as little as possible

    I started out in foxfarm ocean forest
    if had to do it again I would have started with own potting soil and I might not be looking for salt fertilizer..
    the fox farm burned out of nutes in about 4 weeks

    ive top dress with 2 oz of organic tomato fertilizer and worm castings about a week ago so hopefully those will be kicking in shortly and reduce my need for salt fert supplements

    currently im seeing some mild def in K and Mg....but theres plenty of N
     
    Last edited: Apr 18, 2017

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