LEC - Light-Emitting Ceramic

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I have plenty of both, so it's going to be averaging time...

But what if the average is actually 1100W?
Good question.........recall?:wink:.....if the draw is not what's on the spec sheet, they have a problem.

I would still try to clean the brass thread/ pin with alcohol and qtip/cloth/whatever, brass oxides rather quick and make sure the pin is pulled up for a solid connection and see if that helps?

What model mag ballast are you using btw?
 

SaltyNuts

Well-Known Member

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Good question.........recall?:wink:.....if the draw is not what's on the spec sheet, they have a problem.

I would still try to clean the brass thread/ pin with alcohol and qtip/cloth/whatever, brass oxides rather quick and make sure the pin is pulled up for a solid connection and see if that helps?

What model mag ballast are you using btw?
Welllllll... I put my Kill-A-Watt on a different lamp and ballast and guess what? IT'S pulling 1100W too!

Next I'm going to try to check the accuracy of my meter... but I've no reason to think there's anything wrong with it.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Welllllll... I put my Kill-A-Watt on a different lamp and ballast and guess what? IT'S pulling 1100W too!

Next I'm going to try to check the accuracy of my meter... but I've no reason to think there's anything wrong with it.
No shit, what's the actual spec sheet say for this bulb? On the phone atm, also have no personal experience with that specific all start bulb, just the 330w/205w.......you need to test a 1000w hps/mh bulb to see if the losses are really that bad with your particular mag ballast(s)
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Welllllll... I put my Kill-A-Watt on a different lamp and ballast and guess what? IT'S pulling 1100W too!

Next I'm going to try to check the accuracy of my meter... but I've no reason to think there's anything wrong with it.
i'm telling you man, that's normal.
I can't remember what grow book that said that, but it was an old one from the late 90s.
240w is a big loss though.. but 20% of 860, is 172 watts, so 240 isn't far from that.
 

Oregon Gardener

Well-Known Member
Here's a thread about some "other lighting" than LED.

Phillips has a new lamp and fixture to replace the Ceramic Metal-Halide. It comes in 315 watts, and supposedly replaces a 600w or more. The PAR and UV output are better, and I've heard that there is very little heat produced. It also has a CRI of 92.

I haven't used one, but a friend is using several now. I think I would spend $600 on one of these before I spent the same amount on an LED fixture.

I was wondering if anyone here is using them, or if you have an opinion about them.


:mrgreen:
I'm going to have to try one of those Also, just a warning to other growers, don't order the incandescent kit; it's a rip off. :)new high times lite add 001.jpg
 

Sire Killem All

Well-Known Member
Does ur ballast on the allstart run hotter? Bulb might have a resister or such in it restricting the watts the bulb gets but not what is sent. Figure it would have to be the ballast to lower the wattage.. I.e. caps, resisters or such..
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
No shit, what's the actual spec sheet say for this bulb? On the phone atm, also have no personal experience with that specific all start bulb, just the 330w/205w.......you need to test a 1000w hps/mh bulb to see if the losses are really that bad with your particular mag ballast(s)
I can do that easily enough. I'll let you know.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
Does ur ballast on the allstart run hotter? Bulb might have a resister or such in it restricting the watts the bulb gets but not what is sent. Figure it would have to be the ballast to lower the wattage.. I.e. caps, resisters or such..
I don't know, all I care about is my actual draw. I'm drawing way too much, no matter what the excuse.
 

Sire Killem All

Well-Known Member
I don't know, all I care about is my actual draw. I'm drawing way too much, no matter what the excuse.
yea, i agree draw is wats important. i always thought "How can a bulb reduce what a ballast is producing". every set up reduces @ the ballast... U dim a 1k bulb to about 600, not use a 600watt and expect the ballast to lower its load for it
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
efficiency is so hot right now
I believe that advances in indoor growing technology are measured in efficiency and performance improvements.

Efficiency is a major role in an indoor grow .
Efficiency is a core consideration. The only reason I see so many crazy growing schemes is because the value of the finished product supports such foolishness. If cannabis was the same price as cardamom, cost cutting would be king.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
The ballast doesn't know your using a 860 watt bulb. It's job is to send it 1000 watts of power the socket can use to the socket. The extra 100 watts is a by product of the ballast.
This is my thinking, too. So why bother if the ballast can't discriminate? I'm not a happy camper, noooo sirreee!
 

Carolina Dream'n

Well-Known Member
This is my thinking, too. So why bother if the ballast can't discriminate? I'm not a happy camper, noooo sirreee!
I'm throughly unimpressed with my 315s. I replaced 6 600s with 6 315s and yields went from 8 lbs to 4.5 to 5 at best. I'll b doing one more run with them, if it doesn't get better I'll be getting rid of them.

IMO, the people who are trading them out and getting better results than before couldn't control their environment. We have guys around me trading out 2 1000s for 3 315s and pulling the same yields... Then you ask what they yield.... 2 lbs off 2 1000s. Horrible. They then put in the 315 and hit the same yield, thinking it is the lights. It's not. It's their environment being controlled better because of less heat.
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Fifty to seventy five watts is normal for magnetic ballasts. 100W is acceptable. 240W is just a fuckin' ripoff.
That's normal for 600s not a 1000 man, and not magnetics, at least not from what I've been taught/read, but i'm absolutely not an expert.
here is some interesting info, regarding that.
It's about halfway down, and considering that the ballast is 1000 watts, another 100 isn't bad really.. they are accounting for a 15% addition, so that's be a 1150watts
http://www.advancedtechlighting.com/edbfp.htm
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
That's normal for 600s not a 1000 man, and not magnetics, at least not from what I've been taught/read, but i'm absolutely not an expert.
here is some interesting info, regarding that.
It's about halfway down, and considering that the ballast is 1000 watts, another 100 isn't bad really.. they are accounting for a 15% addition, so that's be a 1150watts
http://www.advancedtechlighting.com/edbfp.htm
...Except that we're supposedly starting this additional power for the ballast calculation from the 860W rating of the CDM lamp, not a thousand watts.

Therefore, I'm thinking that the ballast is doing nothing differently for the different bulb- and that it's not saving me anything over a thouie.

If anyone is thinking this new and disturbing information will send me scurrying back to the safe conformity of HPS, y'all don't know me very well;

My first order of 4800W of 56% efficient COB LED arrives next month.
 

TheChemist77

Well-Known Member
I'm throughly unimpressed with my 315s. I replaced 6 600s with 6 315s and yields went from 8 lbs to 4.5 to 5 at best. I'll b doing one more run with them, if it doesn't get better I'll be getting rid of them.

IMO, the people who are trading them out and getting better results than before couldn't control their environment. We have guys around me trading out 2 1000s for 3 315s and pulling the same yields... Then you ask what they yield.... 2 lbs off 2 1000s. Horrible. They then put in the 315 and hit the same yield, thinking it is the lights. It's not. It's their environment being controlled better because of less heat.
im happy with the switch to lec so far..id say the 315 is more comparable to a 400 hps or maybe 500 watts not a 600.. my temp is controled the same no matter the lamp im using...im on my second run with lec and so far things look good, first run couldve been better but i still got over a gpw..this run 945 watts lec should pull me 1000-1200 grams dry weight but we will see..

https://www.rollitup.org/t/chemist77-315-watt-cdl-grow.880895/page-1

check out if interested
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
...Except that we're supposedly starting this additional power for the ballast calculation from the 860W rating of the CDM lamp, not a thousand watts.

Therefore, I'm thinking that the ballast is doing nothing differently for the different bulb- and that it's not saving me anything over a thouie.

If anyone is thinking this new and disturbing information will send me scurrying back to the safe conformity of HPS, y'all don't know me very well;

My first order of 4800W of 56% efficient COB LED arrives next month.
ahhh, I see your complaint, my bad, I didn't understand you fully.
I was saying that for that ballast, disregarding the lamp, which i'm not sure that lowers the amperage used, no? If I understand it correctly the amps used for the ballast isn't changed because of the wattage, but again, I don't KNOW that to be true, but honestly, you sorta have proved that on your own though.
You are the proof man. It sucks, I feel ya.
Side note, we talked a lil earlier, about the 10k bulbs, I was delayed on my flower run with that 600w Mh 12k "finisher" bulb.
Just RE setup my room and have had them under it for 2 days, so in about 30 days or so we can see if the hps side or the Mh side is any different.. my money is on the MH..
 
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