SaltyNuts
Well-Known Member
How's that 860 working out? I might switch out my 1000W Hortilux bulb for one of those Philips 860W CMH allstart bulbs.....
LEC - Light-Emitting Ceramic
- Thread starter potroastV2
- Start date
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
CRI = 93; fantastic!
Thousand watt MAGNETIC ballast ONLY; cheap but inefficient.
That's your trade-off.
grapefruitmarmalade
Well-Known Member
Where would one be able to buy an Allstart bulb in Europe?
All I've been able to find was a 250 watt Philips CDO-TT 830 which I'm going to use on my next run.
All I've been able to find was a 250 watt Philips CDO-TT 830 which I'm going to use on my next run.
SaltyNuts
Well-Known Member
Yeah that CRI mmmmm. What's it draw from the wall?
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
A good question I don't have the 240V Kill-A-Watt to answer. My best guess is about 950W, give or take 50W, due to the magnetic ballast's inefficiency.
COB LED will be a revelation by comparison, I'm thinking straight double the PPfd per watt.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
If you really want to know, and your light controller has the "X" plugs to accept either cord...the 120v meters work fine with 240v.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
An excellent point. All of my ballasts will happily run on 120V, I should try this. Good, bad or ugly- knowing is better than not.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Ya
That's true too...most are multiple voltage accepting.
But I was talking about plugging the 120v kilowatt meter into his 240v power. Most light controllers have "x plugs" these days
It's wired to 240v but will accept both type of power cords.
Last edited:
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Only plug in 220v ballast into that box. They made those plugs because a lot of magnetic ballast use the "110v plug" wired to 220v. Hardcore ballast is the one that comes to mind.
Those boxes are dangerous if not used properly. There is no neutral, plugging in 110v with fry a ballast or better yet starts fire.
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
Exactly...if not used properly.
There is nothing dangerous about the plugs or controller. What can be dangerous is someone putting one in or using one and not understanding what it does/puts out. But that is not the controllers fault for doing exactly what it supposed to...send whatever voltage is wired to it, regardless of plug. You can wire into to 120v if you wanted to.
Guns don't kill people...people kill people.
Light controllers don't plug wrong shit into them...people do.
Access to poor decisions is just easier I guess.
When used correctly...they are as safe as anything. Many 120v cords use lower gauge wire for the higher currents at that voltage...and becomes extra safety on 240v.
So to be more clear...I am talking about the kilowatt meter being plugged into the 240v via the plugs...because his ballast is 240 wired that based I what he said, I am assuming hard wired/not changable and needs to be on 240v. But the meter will read 240v fine and safely...it was just designed for US households, that are 120v standard. But the kilowatt meter it self is not talking any of the load...only reading it and was will do either. I looked into it as much as I could through every published and taking it apart. Then actually tested it my self. And of course paid attention while doing it.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I got you; obviously the power controller doesn't change output voltage depending on the shape of the plug. My magnetic ballasts actually have two separate outlets; one each for 120/240V operation. I can just use that, no safety hazard.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
Nah, man- like 85% of all ballasts manufactured for this hobby, mine are all switchable voltage. Easy peasy, I'll get back to you on this later this afternoon or tomorrow with some numbers!
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
All of my power controllers are 240V. This would be a bad end for my 120V Kill-A-Watt!
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
I know they are...they will be fine on 240v is what I'm saying.
Most electronics will run a few percent more efficient at 240v vs 120v. So there will be a small difference between them. For my solis teks was about 50w.
Last edited:
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
I'm confused. Are you agreeing or disagreeing?
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
Yea. I'm thinking more about the old school mag ballast that are either wired to 120,240,208 or 480v. They can only run one voltage, yet most of those ballast use the same cord for 110/220v.
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
If you open mine up you'll see capped wire ends inside for 208V and 277V as well as the 120/240V.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
What ballast are you using?
ttystikk
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure they're old sunlight supply units? The Hydrofarm ballasts have the same wires coming from their transformer inside the box, too?
Greengenes707
Well-Known Member
My disagreement...
"They are dangerous"
No they are not. They are perfectly safe.
My agreement...
Plugging incorrect things into a power outlet is bad. Many people are stupid and/or uneducated on what is going on with what they use/do in many aspects of life. I don't call that dangerous on the controllers part at all...that's human error.
Why and how are a persons most important questions. If I don't know how to make or do it myself somehow(at least the general concept of what's happening), whether practical todo so or not, I don't feel comfortable doing or using it. And won't till I am. If there is no other option and I must use some help/paid to do...then I will be picking their brain till theyre sick of me and ask me to leave or shut up. But you would be surprised at how many professionals will talk their way threw things out loud, and you just need to absorb it. As well as research things yourself.
When we are talking about major growing, not hobby...a master gardener needs to be an electrician, engineer(many fields), carpenter, botanist, chemist, salesman, marketer, lab tech, personnel manager,...the list goes on. If wanting to be like them...like using equipment they do...then get educated. That's where I stand.
Carolina Dream'n
Well-Known Member
I haven't opened a mag ballast in probably 4 years. The hardcore ballast has 110/220v on one unit, but it's wired to one voltage during production. They then put a cap over the other voltages input on the ballast. I think their 208v/480v ballast is the same way.
Logistically I understand, it's much cheaper to only have 2 ballast body's made than 4. But it's also a hazard because new growers don't understand how they work, they see that it has their "standard household plug" and plug it in wherever it fits, regardless of how it's wired.