King Cob Led grow light

Wonder.Hippy said:

BTW you are totally wrong. I'm no expert but you are really out there.

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No doubt I am really out there. You got that right. What do I not understand about a datasheet?

All I have been saying is if the 2x test current is near 175% of test current, I will buy another LED and drive them at or just above test current. That's it. Nobody's business but my own. I shared that and got this^

well you were also saying this 2 days ago (green line)

GrowLightResearch said:

All I have been saying is if the 2x test current is near 175% of test current, I will buy another LED and drive them at or just above test current. That's it. Nobody's business but my own. I shared that and got this^

View attachment 4058184

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Yes, and if you take a third and run it below test current, it will be even more efficient. If it gets worse above test current, it has to get better below. Temps and Vf do not completely equalize! Just try Samsung's calculator, or the one from Cree, Citizen, etc. They don't lie...

http://www.samsung.com/global/business/led/support/tools/calculator-pkg

SSGrower said:

just muddy the waters already and go for multiple point source interference...........

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It doesn't matter what basic principle you bring up, reflection, overlap, measuring PPFD, converting lux to PPFD, led efficiency, Vf etc etc. All of it throws him off completely.

This really has to be the most elaborate trolling expedition yet. An honest mistake can happen, but no one can be this wrong by mistake all the time. Let alone make the mistake and then not understand how wrong he was after people explain that he was wrong.

He did the same using the alias NoFuckingClue or something and then disappeared. Now he's back doing the exact same thing again, posting bizarre outlandish claims and pretending he's offended when people point out he's wrong.

wietefras said:

It doesn't matter what basic principle you bring up, reflection, overlap, measuring PPFD, converting lux to PPFD, led efficiency, Vf etc etc. All of it throws him off completely.

This really has to be the most elaborate trolling expedition yet. An honest mistake can happen, but no one can be this wrong by mistake all the time. Let alone make the mistake and then not understand how wrong he was after people explain that he was wrong.

He did the same using the alias NoFuckingClue or something and then disappeared. Now he's back doing the exact same thing again, posting bizarre outlandish claims and pretending he's offended when people point out he's wrong.

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I'm done playing with the clueless clown, he lost any shred of credibility when he said he doesn't grow. LOL. Doesn't grow but he's gonna learn us ignernt hicks how to do it!

16 months ago before I started researchin....baaahhhhhwwwwaaaaasddddaaawwwwatf?
26 year on this and you are a researcher?

To: growlight/gasbagresearcher

VegasWinner said:

They make a nice compact led baord. 1"x12" with two channels of red and blue total of 36 diodes 24 red/12 blue.

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Do you have (or make) strips with only deep red? That's what I want. I have the gerbers to fab them but with the drop in the cost of white strips it not all that viable.

I made a strip light with two channels. One for reds and one for blues, power separate. I use lpc drivers with these as they are fairly light in material and can not take large loads. Btu they operate at the voltage and amps per manufacturer. The mst expensive part is getting diodes to float, as reel costs as too much for a small run. I went to my friends in Shenzhen and had them make me some small boards from Roget my strip light supplier. He gor the diodes cheaper than I can and mounted 10 boards plus design service for low cost. If youy have gerber file you save money all for production costs only.

I have some deep red strips with royal blue also. They only use MW lpc-60-1050 drivers one for each channel. I have tghem mounted on the light fixture I posted on my two channel thread. The board one left has deep red and royal blue with 2:1 ratio on two channels. The board on the right has far red and UVA385 on two channels.

GrowLightResearch said:

I have wondered for some time now, why would anyone buy a Quantum Board?

Am I missing something? I just looked at their HLG 550. 1,152 LEDs for $1,049

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I own @robincnn and @Stephenj37826 an apology for the above post. Sorry...
I was missing something. I did not consider that everyone does not have the tools and know how to build a fixture.

HLG is not a charlatan vendor which puts them in a very small class of vendors. They provide a good product at a fair price.

GrowLightResearch said:

Do you have (or make) strips with only deep red? That's what I want. I have the gerbers to fab them but with the drop in the cost of white strips it not all that viable.

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I had some made, but I was n ot happy with them. I used SunPlus 20 diodes and the Far Red are way to dim. The Deep red are nice and the Royal Blue are nice. Difficulty I had was a good driver. I ended up ising lpc 60/100-1050 drivers depending on Vf needed. Maybe it was manufacturing, but I was unhappy with the final production. It happens.

Plan B I used 10w Deep Red and Royal Blue cobs from ebay, same drivers easier to and cheaper and a lot happier.
Live and learn.

Hi, I'm new here and I'd like to ask for your help. I have a lot of questions, you can answer as many as you want, everything helps. I'm good at math, but don't know much about plants. I'm planning to supplement my 3.5K COB with some red and maybe blue. What type of led do you recommend? A wide spectrum phosphor red can be better than a mono 660nm? What is the good red/white ratio for flowering and blue/white for veg? Do you know the Osram Opto Duris S5 red leds? They are like the Luxeon Sunplus 35 without the blue, the red part of the spectrum almost identical. I can't tell which one is more efficient, there is no data to compare, micromol for the Luxeon, lumen for the Osram, maybe you can solve this.

If you already use white light, you only need to fill in the missing wavelength in the lower blue and upper red area, if any ..!
I've added ~6% 425nm(SemiLED has good ones) and 10% 660nm(Osram, Cree, Philips are good) to my 3500°k Cree COB's.
While the deepred seems to have no visible effects, except that it increases the overall output, the purple blue light has produced clearly visible changes. Plants keep shorter and more bushy/dense, leaves stay a bit smaller but gets a darker green, also they looks and stays healthier. They barely lost a leaf until the end. Buds are more dense, terpenes and resin content seems also better because of the lower blue wavelength.
That's what heliospectra says about these wavelength:

Violet (380 nm to 445 nm)
-----------------------------------------------
Studies have shown that when a plant receives visible violet light, the color, taste and aroma of the plant are increased.
In addition, the antioxidants of the plant are able to perform their functions more efficiently, which prevents the cells from being damaged in the plant.

This is broadly consistent with my experience.
Wideband reds are nice as well as monochromatic reds but today I would recommend to use a good CRI90 LED to get more deep- and far-red into your growroom.
BTW,
UVB reptile tubes are even more useful than purple LEDs. In addition to UV-A and B wavelengths, they also provide a lot of blue light in the 410 and 435nm range, but if properly used, they significantly increase the active ingredient content. We're talking here about 15-30% more thc.

Randomblame said:

terpenes

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I like that.

Randomblame said:

heliospectra

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Good fixture. I wrote and app for their RX30.

Randomblame said:

but if properly used,

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If improperly used can kill the plant too.

Old ninja said:

Duris S5 red leds

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It's a nice red spectrum. Would it do better or worse than a narrow band deep red? Doubtful.
My red of choice is the OSRAM Olson SSL 150 Hyper Red. Closely followed by Cree XPE HE Photo Red.

Old ninja said:

lumen for the Osram

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The version 2.0 datasheet for the hyper red has PPF and BPF (biologically active flux) output.

Thank you guys. The 425nm blue is a good idea. Do different wavelengths of blue from 380 to 470nm have different effects? I'd like to know how I can tell if the UV is too much for the plant. Are the symptoms similar to light stress, e.g. bleaching? What are the first signs? GLR, I want to know the efficiency of the Osram Opto Duris S5 red vs the Luxeon Sunplus 35.

VegasWinner said:

Live and learn.

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Too many around here just live. I'm sure you know who those guys are.

Old ninja said:

Osram Opto Duris S5 red vs the Luxeon Sunplus 35.

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They both kinda suck in my humble opinion. The Duris have a 6v forward voltage. I never liked the Sunplus 35 from the they were released. As I recall they were weak in efficacy and thermal resistance. Thermal resistance is high on my priorities when comparing LED characteristics.

Randomblame said:

425nm(SemiLED has good ones

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I did not see much in LED components, mostly chips.
The 4 dice entertainment mix component was interesting. They did not publish thermal resistance. Forward voltages were a bit on the high side. No deep red.

What can be the difference between the 425+660 monos and 1750K 90Cri? I think if I add monos, I will get simply more par, more photosynthetic power, but 1750K or wide red leds can cause faster flowering and more stretching. My UVB bulb arrived yesterday, but it will be turned on for 10 minutes daily, it wont provide the short blues I need. Is deeper red(over 660) really beneficial?

Old ninja said:

Is deeper red(over 660) really beneficial?

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660nm is almost a good as 680 nm (ideal). There are no 680nm LEDs only 660.

Old ninja said:

What can be the difference between the 425+660 monos and 1750K 90Cri?

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450 + 660 is the standard most efficient wavelengths for photosynthesis.

There is more to grow lights than just photosynthesis. There is a lot of interest in secondary metabolites (e.g. cannabionoids) These photochemical products generally need more than just BR. A white LED covers all the whole spectrum. There is not enough published cannabis research on light mediation of cannabinoids to know which wavelength will produce more THC.

Old ninja said:

Thank you guys. The 425nm blue is a good idea. Do different wavelengths of blue from 380 to 470nm have different effects? I'd like to know how I can tell if the UV is too much for the plant. Are the symptoms similar to light stress, e.g. bleaching? What are the first signs? GLR, I want to know the efficiency of the Osram Opto Duris S5 red vs the Luxeon Sunplus 35.

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First signs of too much UV are typically shown as burned tips and leaf margins. Usually a distance between 8" and 16" is used and a start with 0,5-1h at noon per day. Than increase the time slowly untill you see first since it's too much. Some use uv-tubes for up to 6h per day or for the whole circle, but thats probably with 3% tubes.
My Arcadia d3 desert has 12%/30% UV-B/A and I will give my girls a maximum of 2-3h per day to gain experience first.
But beware with the AgroMax tubes they deliver much more UV than reptile tubes. Maybe already 1/4 or 1/5 of the time is enough!