KiLL YouR SPiDeRMiTeS TODAY!!

bongrippinbob

Well-Known Member
Safer Soap killed my plants when I used it.

The best product I have used is called Organicide and is available at Home Depot. It is one of the only products that actually kills the eggs along with the adults.

Mixing 1/2oz-1oz Organicide, 1/2oz-1oz Neem Oil, and some dish soap per gallon of water will give you the most effective mite control you have ever seen. I used it once on plants so infested there was webbing, and there is no sign of them any longer.

The stuff stinks, so only use it outside, and let your plants dry outside before bringing them in. The smell will hang around for a week or two, so don't use too late into flowering. Some strains do better if you spray them, let them sit for about an hr, then rinse them off with plain water.

Like I said, I can just about guarantee you this will be the most effective mite control you have ever used. Once application is usually plenty because it kills the eggs too!
 

quadrophine

Well-Known Member
nice thread flojo Love the drama, not only did I learn alot about spider mites, but people as well. It seems that anytime a debate is waged, we can't help ourselves but to name call and belittle our opponenent into submission. for purveyors of a "mind opening drug" those last few pages made a very informative forum mind numbingly ignorant and immature.

But fuck, I'm guilty of the same shit sooooo...
think i'll use some tobacco tea on my vegging and 1st week flower plants, seems like the cheapest most organic route. and when you think about it it makes sense, tobacco is invulnerable to all but the tobacco beetle if the mites haven't evolved yet to feed on tobacco then I imagine coating the leaves of our plants with the same oils should do the trick. now lets just hope we don't have any tobacco beetle infestations.

peace.
 

misshestermoffitt

New Member
Interesting thread. Spider mites are always a bitch. Flo, I like the looks of the remedy test number 2 that you posted. I see the person who has been testing said it doesn't kill fleas? I wonder what kind of dish soap they are using in it. Dawn dish soap kills fleas, tell them to try dawn.

If this kills thrips like the test person (sorry can't remember their name and I'm a stoner so I don't wanna go back and look) said I'm going to be very excited. So far things look ok, but I killed 5 plants in flower trying to get rid of thrips. I think the thrips are gone, they plants died so surely the thrips died with them.

Thanks for posting the good alternatives for killing spider mites. bongsmilie :mrgreen:
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
shit if tobacco beetles started eating my crops, id just burn down my complex and stop growing LOL
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
Interesting thread. Spider mites are always a bitch. Flo, I like the looks of the remedy test number 2 that you posted. I see the person who has been testing said it doesn't kill fleas? I wonder what kind of dish soap they are using in it. Dawn dish soap kills fleas, tell them to try dawn.

If this kills thrips like the test person (sorry can't remember their name and I'm a stoner so I don't wanna go back and look) said I'm going to be very excited. So far things look ok, but I killed 5 plants in flower trying to get rid of thrips. I think the thrips are gone, they plants died so surely the thrips died with them.

Thanks for posting the good alternatives for killing spider mites. bongsmilie :mrgreen:
sure miss,

glad you found it helpful, i hope everyone gets a little good info off of here to help em get rid of the borg.. i know it took me a ton of recipies and several tries, but with the right combo, and diligent applications, they can be defeated

FLo
 

littlegrower2004

Well-Known Member
Table 1: Pesticides useful to control spider mites in yards and gardens.Active IngredientTrade Name(s)CommentsacephateOrthene, certain Isotox formulations Insecticide with some effectiveness against spider mites. Systemic.abamectinAvidFor commercial use only on ornamental plants. Primarily effective against twospotted spider mite; less effective against mites on conifers. Limited systemic movement.bifenthrinTalstar, othersInsecticide with good miticide activity.hexythiazoxHexygonFor commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective miticide that affects developing stages and eggs only. One application per season label restriction.horticultural oilsSunspray, othersUsed at the "summer oil" rate (2 percent), oils are perhaps the most effective miticide available for home use.insecticidal soapseveralMarginally effective against twospotted spider mite and where webbing prevents penetration. Broadly labeled.spiromesifanForbidFor commercial use only on ornamental plants. Selective against mites and conserves natural enemies.sulfurvarious Generally sold in dust formulation for control of various fungal diseases and some mites on some ornamental and vegetable crops.
 

quadrophine

Well-Known Member
I've been trying the tobacco tea, for the past couple weeks now... and I'm still having some problems with my plants. First of all, they are in flower now, for about 2 weeks I'm getting a lot of yellow leaves, and many of the leaves that are still "healthy" have brown tips. I'm not seeing as many white spots, But I'm still catching a few of those fuckers around. I've been spraying them every 3 to 4 days for the past two or so weeks, I don't like to spray them alot, but when I do I saturate the top and bottom of every leaf and at every node. Now that they are beginning to bud, I'm wary of spraying too much on the plant because I don't want them to taste smell or affect me like tobacco. I also see slightly larger winged bugs in the soil, not too many but what should I do???
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
well it sounds like you have them pinned down if you are not seeing any more spots, and if you still catch em around i would step up the potency on the tea these last couple of applications. the spider mite has a crazy ability to adapt to different countermeasures. you just want to keep them at bay, get through the harvest and then clean the shit outta everything.

also the yellowing leaves at the bottom is normal in flower.. as they get larger, the leaves at the bottom of the canopy are used for energy when they do not recieve a bunch of light.. now if you are losing lots of leaves that could be a bad thing, but 1 or 2 per plant is perfectly normal.

also the winged insects are fungus gnats.. let your soil dry out really well before you water again because they lay eggs in the moist soil. also go online and search for some double death nematodes for about 25 dollars. add them to your soil and in a matter of days you will have no more gnats.

good luck!

FLo
 

littlegrower2004

Well-Known Member
i had a decent problem with fungus gnats..but when the spider mites came they seemed to have decreased in numbers..plus a few daddy long legs are helping to exterminate
 

bluballs

Active Member
Been doing this 18 yrs. Humidity does shit to battle mites. And those strips? What do those have to do with mites? Fungus Knats maybe...

Them little bastards build a home base then send out the scouts to start another and another till u need drastic measures to battle these little cock sucking soldiers. I have sprayed avid hundreds of times(Please do not use if you can help it...POISON) and I would not put your faith in them all dying. Neem is a nice product if you dont wait until total infestation. I dont even like pyrythians(spelling?). I know its from a flower, but wtf does that mean...Uranium comes out of the mountain.

I find that when i spray I put Megawet(soap) in the solution. I find this helps with the bugs as well. I just spray each leaf, if I can, and the mites will at least be under control till the end.

Just one guys opinion...
 

offgridgrower

Well-Known Member
freeakn looks like my lil mites are back , 2wks into flower and I see the signs on the bottom leaves. I'm going to try the nicotine tea this time, as I went with the cyanne pepper mix last time when the babies was in veg. Question on the tea, how much water to tabbacco? i started with a quart of water with a 1/3 of the bag (american sprit loose ). And do you spray away from lights and let dry b4 returning to light? Also spray repeat until I dont see anything or notice its not working?
 

sukow360

Active Member
when you use the neem oil way, do you have to rinse it off? I'm about 2 weeks from harvest, so I dont want to gunk up my buds
 

FLoJo

Well-Known Member
dont use neem 2 weeks from harvest, just let em finish then clean ur room.

and wit the tea do 2 cups of water and 15 grams of tobacco.. should look like a good dark tea you would drink. if you are two weeks in i would spray every 3rd night at lights out, bottoms and tops, and then rinse them off with water right before lights on.. do this until buds really begin to form in week 5 and then hope that you didnt miss a spot.. keep doing it no matter what and you should get am all, but they thrive in 12/12 and eggs are hatching all the time and its easy to miss a spot.
 

offgridgrower

Well-Known Member
ok while i was steeping my tabacco i forgot it was on so i ended up with about 2 cups from 4, really dark tea. so is this a concentrated form now? I didnt spray last nite because they needed to be watered and I figured watering and spraying might not be a good idea, so I might get it done tonite, im thinking of doing a 2-1(water/tea) mix in the spray bottle, do you think that is too much? and after looking last nite, im not sure if it is mites now, I really need a better magnify glass cause I cant see well enough to see body parts like legs or anything that looks like a bug, I see black dots here and there but they dont look live to me, if the black specks are the eggs, then I havent seen a live mite yet, I got spots on the leaves but just on the bottom, and the leaf spots I saw last nite didnt look like the ones from earlier this week, they are more darker colored spots not yellowish orange, but like brownish dark is that co2 issue?
 
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