Jade

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
This thread is going to be really slow in progression .

Photosynthetic Active Radiation Solid State Light Model : Jade.


Basic Parts List:

- 2x Bridgelux BXRC-30E10K0-L-xx.
- 2x MeanWell HLP-80-H-42.
- 1x MeanWell PS-05-12.
- 1x Noctua NF-P14 FLX
- 1x EMI filter AC IEC C14 socket
-1x heat sink 200 mm x 160 mm x 40 mm
- 1x case ~ 320W x 255D x 85H mm.
( I use this: http://www.venieris.com/ΗΛΕΚΤΡΟΝΙΚΑΗΛΕΚΤΡΟΛΟΓΙΚΑ/ΗλεκτρονικάΕίδη/tabid/122/CategoryID/2525/List/0/catpageindex/4/Level/a/ProductID/31889/Default.aspx )
1x tube Arctic silver 5 or other TIM with therm. cond. above ~ 5 W/m.K
Inox Screws
8x : M3 Allen 10 mm,Washer M3&M4 => Installing the 2x Veros
17x : M3 Allen ,M3 washer => case outside
4 x steel sheet screws => plate (case inside )
8x M4 Allen ,2x M4 washer ,M4 nut => Heat sink+ plate
4x M3 Allen flat countersunk ,4x M3 nuts ( Fan PSU )
8x M3 flat countersunk ,8x M3 nuts (2x LED PSU )
&
12x M3 zic-plated steel metal inserts.( as pcb spacers/colders )

Other
- 2x inox hanging posts
~ 25 Inox / aluminium rivets(riveting tool needed also ,a cheap one will do )
-1x INOX vent cover / square

Alum angles: 2 x 200 mm L 20 x 20 mm x 1.5 mm

Alum profile " π " :2 x 315 L mm 20 x 10 mm x 2 mm

10 led bar (green ) .
4017 decade counter IC .
(I use Texas Instruments CD4017BE )
1x 10 -100 nF ceramic capacitor smd 1206
1x 10 K resistor smd 1206
1x 1 K resistor smd 1206
DIY pcb FR4 single sided / copper 50 x 50 mm .
5 gr Potassium persulfate .

Tools:
Laser printer.
Bench drill ( drills HSS / Cobalt or Titanium 2.5 mm , 3 mm ,4 mm ,5 mm ,6 mm ,8 mm & 10 mm )
Sand papers (siclicone carbide )EU grits : 300 ,600 ,1000 & 2500
WD 40 or similar
M3 tapping bit or hand tool .
File set
Electric saw or disc rotary cutter.
Nitrile protective gloves


To be continued and enriched ...
 
Last edited:

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
-The case apart :
PB151791.JPG


-Detail of the steel made side walls .
Grey color is due to rust-proof primer .
( 3 layers )
The Stainless steel screws are shown.
PB151792.JPG

Detail of front human interface plate .
PB151793.JPG


-My rough idea of the top cover ...
An stainless steel square vent ,facing backwards ,on black lid .
Resembling the top head feathers of an owl ...
I think I'll use some silicone for rattle -proofing the plate and some stainless steel rivets .
And I think I'm going to polish their heads to mirror ,to match the plate .
I'll paint the top lid with carbon black ,matte ,glass-reinforced paint.( i.e. Hammerite )
After the grey 3-4 layer rust proofing,of course .

PB151794.JPG


-The stupid bottom lid .
Or the vents have to be "closed" / filled with epoxy..
Ahhh .I like the silver belly of an owl ...
I'm thinking of having made a bottom lid copy of brushed stainless steel sheet .Thick.
Yes.I'll give it a try on that.
Matte black on top ,silvery everywhere else ...
With green ...details...

PB151795.JPG


The aluminium support angles & " π " profile bars .
Also two black anodised sturdy duraluminium handles salvaged from professional audio equipment.
(anodising slightly scratched,almost new. )
PB151796.JPG


Some other parts ...
PB151797.JPG


-The 140 mm fan

PB151798.JPG

PB151799.JPG



Cheers.
 

AquariusPanta

Well-Known Member
-The case apart :
View attachment 3294295


-Detail of the steel made side walls .
Grey color is due to rust-proof primer .
( 3 layers )
The Stainless steel screws are shown.
View attachment 3294296

Detail of front human interface plate .
View attachment 3294297


-My rough idea of the top cover ...
An stainless steel square vent ,facing backwards ,on black lid .
Resembling the top head feathers of an owl ...
I think I'll use some silicone for rattle -proofing the plate and some stainless steel rivets .
And I think I'm going to polish their heads to mirror ,to match the plate .
I'll paint the top lid with carbon black ,matte ,glass-reinforced paint.( i.e. Hammerite )
After the grey 3-4 layer rust proofing,of course .

View attachment 3294300


-The stupid bottom lid .
Or the vents have to be "closed" / filled with epoxy..
Ahhh .I like the silver belly of an owl ...
I'm thinking of having made a bottom lid copy of brushed stainless steel sheet .Thick.
Yes.I'll give it a try on that.
Matte black on top ,silvery everywhere else ...
With green ...details...

View attachment 3294302


The aluminium support angles & " π " profile bars .
Also two black anodised sturdy duraluminium handles salvaged from professional audio equipment.
(anodising slightly scratched,almost new. )
View attachment 3294303


Some other parts ...
View attachment 3294305


-The 140 mm fan

View attachment 3294306

View attachment 3294307



Cheers.
I like the grey/blue color of the side panels.

Is it better to hand-sand the heat sink or does using an electric sander prove more beneficial?

Will this luminaire, once finished, be for sale or have a different destiny?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I like the grey/blue color of the side panels.

Is it better to hand-sand the heat sink or does using an electric sander prove more beneficial?

Will this luminaire, once finished, be for sale or have a different destiny?
All my creations are for sale.
The possible owner of this light might be a RIU member.
We had some weird private conversation ..
:lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:

Price set for the (possible )owner is 500 Euros( ~ $ 640 )
& free shipping .

Cheers.

:peace:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
That's pretty normal, especially with multiple colors. However the process isn't that difficult to DIY, the equipment required is pretty basic. Just planting a few idea seeds ;)
Help out then.
Gather ,select the most informative and 'dense' links and
post 'em here ,at this thread.
( Please no more than five links.)

Thank you ,very much for the seeds ..
Water them a bit ,cause I 've not much time to do so ...

My purpose is not to sell the light .
My purpose is to show ,how a high quality light can be built.
I'm helping you and you 're helping me ...

That's a nice deal ....
Between designer-maker and user-owner...
Probably the best one ....

If you can't built it ,at least to be aware of it's Real Value .
Retail Price is another thing ...Much -much lower than Real Value .
It's an Overkill of a led light ..Like ferraris are for automobiles ...

I promise ,I 'll keep refining my creations ,to the overkillest of overkill ...

For the few fanatic and crazy ones ,who deeply appreciate the ' art '...




.
 
Last edited:

bicit

Well-Known Member
Help out then.
Gather ,select the most informative and 'dense' links and
post 'em here ,at this thread.
( Please no more than five links.)

Thank you ,very much for the seeds ..
Water them a bit ,cause I 've not much time to do so ...

My purpose is not to sell the light .
My purpose is to show ,how a high quality light can be built.
I'm helping you and you 're helping me ...

That's a nice deal ....
Between designer-seller and owner-customer ....
Probably the best one ....

If you can't built it ,at least to be aware of it's Real Value .
Retail Price is another thing ...Much -much lower than Real Value .
It's an Overkill of a led light ..Like ferraris are for automobiles ...

I promise ,I 'll keep refining my creations ,to the overkillest of overkill ...

For the few fanatic and crazy ones ,who deeply appreciate the ' art '...
.
My notes are very 'fluffy', I'll see what I can do to condense them. Five links should be easily do-able I imagine. I'm kinda digging the idea of a forum dedicated to home made, voluptuously luxurious, ascetically pleasing lights.

Though my designs are a bit more streamlined and utilitarian in nature. I still benefit from your ideas.

Time and money constraints though. Chronic problems. >_<
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
My notes are very 'fluffy', I'll see what I can do to condense them. Five links should be easily do-able I imagine. I'm kinda digging the idea of a forum dedicated to home made, voluptuously luxurious, ascetically pleasing lights.

Though my designs are a bit more streamlined and utilitarian in nature. I still benefit from your ideas.

Time and money constraints though. Chronic problems. >_<
I do not do it for the money ...
I do it because I've love and passion for it ...
Time and money ,are not really issues ...

Chasing perfection is a chronic problem ,indeed ..

It might take me one ,six or even 12 months to design and build a fixture ...
Selling it ,allows me to step into the making of a next one ...
It evolves the art within me ...
Makes me falling deeper in love with the art of producing light ,life and ultimately joy ...

Makes me feel happy.

Not "happy" as the Freudical spontaneous & explosive ,but short lived ,
sudden fulfilment of stacked and squeezed "wishes" and "wants" ...

But happy as a creator ...
Feeling full of light,life and joy ...
Always fighting the darkness around and within ...


Cheers.
:peace:
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
This fixture is based on phosphor convertion warm white led Chip-on-board tech.
Right now ,I personally consider them the best ( as a sum of many aspects ,not just energy efficiency ...Or red photon absorption ....

secrets..secrets ..secrets ....

" In contrast to the usual chlorophyll-dependent photosynthesis, the proposed anthocyanin-dependent photosynthesis has higher quantum efficiency at high light intensities, which saturate photosynthesis in green leaves.

In other words, when light intensity increases from low or moderate levels to a high level, the intensity of photosynthesis decreases in leaves but increases in flower petals.

As a result, the PA signal response in flower petals to strong light switching on and off will be reversed compared with those of green leaves. Therefore, in this stady, if the photobaric component is absent, the PA signal of flower petals will be increased in response to a dark pulse at 40- and 280-Hz modulating frequencies. The indirect evidence in support of this explanation is based on the above data demonstrating that the proposed ADAPFP most likely requires a few minutes under strong light to become fully operable."

"
Most of the experimental data presented in this study were obtained using blue petunia flowers and white light as this light is most similar to natural daylight. Nevertheless, additional photoacoustic measurements were performed using blue and red petunia flowers as well as blue and red light to perform a rough reciprocal estimation of the spectral PA response.

As shown in Tab. 1, no any significant ES values were found when using red petunia flower petals under either blue or red light. Very low ES values were revealed in blue petunia flower petals under blue light; this result was expected because blue quanta are not absorbed by blue anthocyanins. The ES value was significant in blue flower petals when measured under red light and the mean value slightly exceeded that when measured under white light (12.2 ± 1.4 and 11.5 ± 1.7% respectively). Clearly, only the red light component is utilised in photochemical reactions when blue petals are exposed to white light."



Anyway ...

I do not care for multiple small diodes ,or monochrome leds ...

The chosen approach is the 'evolution' of HIDs ...
The led COBs.
For now...
Who knows what becomes handy ,later ...

At 600 W a HPS has an rad .efficiency ,when brand new- of ~35 %
At 400 W rad .efficiency drops to around ~30% ...
At 200 W even lower than 30% ...

At 2.2 A and with a Tc = 55°C the Vero 29 array is ~38% efficient .
The drivers efficiency is over 90% ,at 2.2 A .

Its purpose as fixture is to replace a 400-600 Euros worth system , consisting
of a 250 Watt Hps ,HQ digital ballast & HQ vented reflector (tube ).
Designed for tight spaces of up to .5 of a square meter .

Safe,silent,efficient ,tough,fully user friendly serviceable.
Nice looking ,too.
With a 'character' for a machine.
A "machine" as a man's creation.

And will keep doing it's job for long ....
Maybe longer than it's creator life duration ..
(hopefully ... )

Cheers.
 
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