Iso Extractions by _oakley_

lio lacidem

Well-Known Member
Probably been said but i do not agree with using plastic at all. This tech is a very good starting point for sure. What idid was have a tube blown open both ends 18in long on top stretched to 1/4 inch wide back up to full tube. 12Inches on bottom. I pack top and pour thru catching runofff and repouribg 5x or untill bottom solution looks like apple juice.
 

bass1014

Well-Known Member
STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY. THIS THREAD.. aside of all the criticizing bullshit this thread is a great starter for anyone who wants to further there medicating so STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY STICKY
 

kstub

Member
THANK YOU OAKLEY!! Just finished reading all 45 pages of this thread, and aside from a couple asshole trollers, such great info! I'm a long time bud smoker, and recently quit smoking cigarettes & started vaping. Figured I'd look into vaping my weed too - especially b/c I'm lucky enough to live where it's legal recreationally!!! Bought a pre-filled cartridge to try the other day - $70!!! OUCH!!! I grow my own outdoors for free, so that hurt :( However, I have access to lots of material to make my own stuff, so here I am:) I'm now thinking QWISO's the way to go for me - Oakley, thanks for making it easy, and explaining just enough of the science w/o a lot of shiny big words to impress people w/ how smart you are! Refreshing:) I've lots of nice sugary trim I'd been saving for hash, now I'll do this instead. One question tho, my trim went straight into the freezer while it was fresh - do I need to get it out, dry it, and re-freeze for best results? Or can I just use the fresh... I tend to think the water in the fresh may affect things, pull more chlorophyll in or something, but please share any thoughts:) Thanks in advance for your time, great thread!!
 

lio lacidem

Well-Known Member
Fresh ftozen will work just fine. Freezing the material will help tie up that chlorophyl. Also freeze your iso
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Ya I run all my qwiso fresh frozen now. The fresh frozen usually gives me a cleaner product(though with the quick wash its pretty clean either way), and more flavor then a dried product. I do my washes very similar to Oakley, as this was one of the first/best threads I've read about QWISO.
 

bud nugbong

Well-Known Member
I did some things wrong too. didn't freeze anything. and didn't have a griddle to heat on . used a space heater and could only get to the 130 range tops. but after a couple days of low heat and vac purging I got a nice taffee like substance. some pics . and I learned a bunch from this thread I just didn't use all the techniques.

even that 2nd green run looks nice, don't know how it will taste but it looks good. only the first pan Is in the little jar. got a decent amount for about 7-10 grams of sugarleaf.
 

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lio lacidem

Well-Known Member
I did some things wrong too. didn't freeze anything. and didn't have a griddle to heat on . used a space heater and could only get to the 130 range tops. but after a couple days of low heat and vac purging I got a nice taffee like substance. some pics . and I learned a bunch from this thread I just didn't use all the techniques.

even that 2nd green run looks nice, don't know how it will taste but it looks good. only the first pan Is in the little jar. got a decent amount for about 7-10 grams of sugarleaf.

Next time try using no heat to purge iso out. Let it sit with fan for 24_36 hrs when you scrape it will be powder. Then you can heat the powder at. 110F just long enough to liquify. Amber shatter consistently. If you like taffy heat powder at 125f. Give that a try im sure you will love it
 

lio lacidem

Well-Known Member
I did some things wrong too. didn't freeze anything. and didn't have a griddle to heat on . used a space heater and could only get to the 130 range tops. but after a couple days of low heat and vac purging I got a nice taffee like substance. some pics . and I learned a bunch from this thread I just didn't use all the techniques.

even that 2nd green run looks nice, don't know how it will taste but it looks good. only the first pan Is in the little jar. got a decent amount for about 7-10 grams of sugarleaf.

Next time try using no heat to purge iso out. Let it sit with fan for 24_36 hrs when you scrape it will be powder. Then you can heat the powder at. 110F just long enough to liquify. Amber shatter consistently. If you like taffy heat powder at 125f. Give that a try im sure you will love it
 

crawlintbss

Well-Known Member
has anyone tried the OAKLEY way lately?

Im still on 20sec swirl n pours but id like to try this pour through on a larger batch. Tho if anything, id do a second run as in my testings i still get good ending result qwiso with more then 1 run.
 

qwizoking

Well-Known Member
In my personal opinion a straight pour through will kill your yield and the quality is the same as a 20 second wash. The outermost layer of the trichome isn't exactly what we are going after and I believe a 20 second wash to be best. I think that this is especially true if internal material isn't horribly exposed through excessive grinding. The trichomes have a sort of waxy layer just like the leaves. If the plant remains whole, intact. I personally feel a quick pour extracts a larger ratio of wax for the first split second then absorbs the rest of the trichome head, the cannabinoid ratio spikes and then drops as the percentage drops and other crap dissolves in......So a pour through without using enough fluid (when I first joined riu I did a 5 second pour through vs a soak) first contacts wax and I really feel it doesn't get near enough time in contact and while quality is fantastic I progressed my technique and gained yield without sacrificing...just my thoughts though

Or just do a few extra washes I guess
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
My washes from the other day. I'm still in the process of evaping them. B grade on the far left others are A grade washes. The second from the left was with dry trim the other 3 towards the right were all with fresh frozen. The color difference is noticable. They were all done with a 20secondish wash, followed by an immediate 20 second b grade wash into a seperate container.
 

GrowBrooklyn

Well-Known Member
My washes from the other day. I'm still in the process of evaping them. B grade on the far left others are A grade washes. The second from the left was with dry trim the other 3 towards the right were all with fresh frozen. The color difference is noticable. They were all done with a 20secondish wash, followed by an immediate 20 second b grade wash into a seperate container.
Was the dry trim frozen? How long was it dried for?

I'm getting really good results using long cured buds. About eight months seems optimal because the chlorophyll is gone and the potency is as strong or stronger than when it was picked. I get a shiny light brown end-product, which is translucent if you spread it, and stays gooey at room temperature. Winterization does not seem to make much difference. Perhaps the waxes are also broken down at this age. I can let it soak for three minutes since there is no chlorophyll; the yield is better than when I do a quick wash. Very smooth smoke, but not as flavorful as good fresh frozen.
 

GrowBrooklyn

Well-Known Member
All I have around is the last dab or this Buddha Tahoe OG. The lighting made it look a bit yellowish, but it is actually more brown. Aged for 1 year in a jar at room temp, then frozen and processed QWISO-style with a 3 minute soak.

IMG_1148-x.JPG IMG_1146-x.JPG
 

GrowBrooklyn

Well-Known Member
BTW, the dark bits are probably contaminants (carbon?) from the dabber. You can't really tell from the picture, but this is like two small dabs worth left from two grams.
 

Thundercat

Well-Known Member
Hey brooklyn, all of my material gets frozen for about 24 hours whether its fresh of dried. What I use mostly depends on when I get around to trimming my plants. If I've got time to trim them fresh, I do like the extra flavor I get when I run the fresh frozen material. If I don't have time to trim, then it gets dried completely and once in a while I'll even cure it a few weeks if I have other material to run instead.

I forgot to post this the other day here is the shatter that came from the jar on the far right in the picture above. 2g of golden deliciousness.


I need to go scrape my next dish later today, its been evaping since monday and i didn't get to it yesterday. It was a single strain run so it should be extra tasty.
 

jondamon

Well-Known Member
So this is my guide and attempt to clear up a lot of the confusing circling around about how to make oil with isopropyl/isopropanol. Hopefully this thread will explain in detail on a proper method to process with these solvents and answer any questions that may remain.


Step 1; Material and Material Preperation.

The quality of your material is of the UTMOST importance. If you start with something thats not very good, your going to end up with something thats not very good. Personally i like to use sugar leaf/bud/bottom of the bag stuff.
The quality of your material will determine how much you should grind your material up. For this demonstration we will be using medium quality bud.

Here you can see the bud i started with, 1oz dried.
The bud is frozen for approximately 1-2 weeks before hand, this does 2 things, accelerates the breakdown of chlorophyll, and locks what chlorophyll that remains in the plant matter in place. Since the material is of medium quality it is ground up as such, not extremely fine, but a mix of what would be good for a joint, and chunks that are just a little to large to roll...

Step 2; Iso quality's and prep.
do not, and i cannot stress this enough DO NOT use iso that is below 90% concentration, it is a waste of time and will leave you with a slimey disgusting mess. this is NOT what you want!

Quantity of iso to use is under great debate, for med-> high quality materials i like to keep the ratio around 1L of iso to 1oz of bud/sugar leaf, this assures the highest possible cannabinoid recovery.

So now you have acquired your isopropyl/isopropanol of greater than 90% concentration, personally i recommend nothing but 99% but that is not available in all areas. If you have to use anything But 99%, there will be some changes in the cooking process.

DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.
Freeze your iso!! deep freezer is best but a kitchen freezer works just fine as well, make sure its as cold as the freezer can get it... will usually take between 3-5 days to accomplish this.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Step 3; Processing materials and filters.

This step is open to a little bit of interpretation, but the filtering process is essential, the containers are not... but i recommend them as they are extremely cheap, durable. and effective!

I use 2L pop bottles, cut like so to create a large cup and funnel. You will also notice in the attached picture, reuseable coffee filters, these are the basic plastic ones with the mesh insert <--- very important! there is also some regular cone style coffee filters with no holes (or flavor pores as they list them on package) you just want the regular old typical coffee filter. and finally youll want something to clean up little spills, wipe your utensils/tools down with, i find good old ass wipe works best. spray a lil iso, wipe, done.


Step 4; Processing your material.

all your iso/bud should remain in freezer until the very last moment.

When your setup like so;


filter in place over the cut 2L
Take your bud, and put it in your filters.



Dump your iso over.... you will notice it practically just Falls through, this step shouldnt take more than a few seconds. lift the filter and shake it down abit to get the remaining large drops out.

Take the filter with the iso'd material, and quickly dump its contents back into the bag in which you dumped it out of. Push the material to corner of bag, and cut the corner of the bag, replace the filter overtop of the 2L, and squeeze the remaining iso out of the material into the reusable filter on top of the 2L. Time is of the essence... do this QUICKLY things warm up fast and start to strip chlorophyll faster than you would think. Personally i can do my runs, and squeeze remaining iso out of material in under a minute.


Step 5; Post filtering.

after all this work you should end up with a 2L full of cloudy iso that somewhat resembles this...

this is Excellent! But we arent done yet.
grab your other 2L's and set the cut off 2L top on top of the 2L like you did the reusable coffee filter, and place one of the regular coffee filters in place.
this filtering process can take upto an hour or more, BE PATIENT DO NOT RUSH IT!!!!!!

take your 2L with your cloudy iso, and pour it through the coffee filters you have setup. the reason for this is the iso is cloudy because of a suspension of trichomes that are in it... this can be A lot ;) As can be seen in the attached photos.


As you can see its quite significant what this step removes!
after completing this filtering process, you will notice the color of your iso has changed from a cloudy color, to a more consistent clear color
from->mid filter -> filterd ->


Step 6; Cooking!

Use a pyrex/borosilicate dish.
i like to use a hot plate to heat my iso...

Try not to boil your iso when cooking as this can lead to degradation of your (boiling in itself will not cause damage, but is a clear indication of temperature, Iso will boil around 70-80c the problem is once its starts boiling you are unable to tell if your mixture is getting TOO hot) cannabinoids. There is an exception to this... if you are using anything less than 99% you will NEED to boil your mixture for a certain amount of time. The reason behind this is the other remaining % of your solvent, is actually water... since iso cooks down in a short period of time, you will be left with a pool of water in your oil, this will most definitely not be pleasant, by achieving boiling for a short time, say 5-10min you are aiding in the evaporation of this excess water content.

Cooking is an Art form.. im sorry to say but up until this point there is science in how i make my oil. at this point... its quite simply experience... over cooking your oil will destroy the consistency and very much change the high. Properly cooked iso based oil, should be gel like... eg when i grab a dab of oil, it will pull a tail, then pull the tail back up under its own viscosity.

May this guide be of use to you all and serve you all well... for those of you who would like to dispute my methods well...



argue with that.
-this document is fiction and any attempts to reproduce its contents may or may not be illegal and i will and shall not be held accountable for what you do with it :)

Great thread.

This should DEFINATELY be stickied.


I'm going to be TRIALING this extraction method in a couple of days.

I've got my 99% ISO and about 7g of good quality CARAMELO buds.

Initially I'm only making a small amount as I'm trying my hand at making an ejuice with some PG for my vape pen.


Thanks again Oakley.




J
 
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