Is this under or over-feeding?

Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Dynamo626 said:
hygrozyme will not fix it just help prevent the problem. I have cut out rot and dunked in weak h202 to fix it. and I have used clearez in the cloner to fix it. now I just run it with the clonex solution and I haven't seen the rot since. again I'm not sure abought using it the entire grow but I assume that it works fine but kills all the beneficial organisms also
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It's my understanding that hygrozyme is used to eat up the dead stuff but not as a root inoculant, since not able to get hydroguard it's been a struggle to find something here. I'll have a look and see if others have used it for rot though thanks! This is my first run not using it and things are good but still lol. I really don't like H2O2 as it's easy to over or under use although I have a 5 gallon pail of 35%. I had better luck with bleach but still didn't cure just held at bay.
 
chasingwaterfalls

chasingwaterfalls

Active Member
Budley Doright said:
There is no help, it's an auto so he's lost his window of success, your helping him waste his time is all. And yup help is what I was doing as opposed to telling him to adjust his nutes which I believe was the suggestion of the day. How are you guys diagnosing a problem when his plant is basically dying from rot and nothing else at this point
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Makes sense that the roots are rotting and not just colored from nutes, I'll probably be tossing these.

theslipperbandit said:
Ive never n will never run an auto...its jist not right in regs u oddly always get more fem to male population
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Only tried these b.c they came as freebies.. Never considered growing autos before this
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
chasingwaterfalls said:
Makes sense that the roots are rotting and not just colored from nutes, I'll probably be tossing these.



Only tried these b.c they ca.e as freebies.. Never considered growing autos before this
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Nope, not discolored they are dying :(. Auto's are not a great choice IMO for an indoor grow but that's just me and my limited experience with them. The reason is I've not had a great one re potency although my last grow was think different and it was ok for a mid summer harvest, I'd give it a 7 out of 10 pheno dependant. I've seen some pretty impressive yields though in a 10 week cycle from others under lights. As for hydro versus soil I find hydro easier to get nutrients right using meters, it's the temp thing that needs to be addressed which can get expensive if buying a chiller. I'm building one now using a water cooler condenser as a test, should be running Saturday hopefully. I run a passive chiller now with buried pipes filled with glycol and heat exchangers.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Actually I run a pretty lean setup and the biggest expense IMO again is the keeping Rez temps low while maintaining good ambient temps. I'm not saying there may have been other issues but who knows now as it's the roots. I showed a pic of a run that is low 300's ppm and the plants are actually doing well, and at that low I would have thought they would have showed underfeeding but nope so I don't think OP is to far off with the age of his plants re nute levels. But yup we can speculate.
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
Actually I run a pretty lean setup and the biggest expense IMO again is the keeping Rez temps low while maintaining good ambient temps. I'm not saying there may have been other issues but who knows now as it's the roots. I showed a pic of a run that is low 300's ppm and the plants are actually doing well, and at that low I would have thought they would have showed underfeeding but nope so I don't think OP is to far off with the age of his plants re nute levels. But yup we can speculate.
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Saying you run at 300ppms in hydro only describes a limited set of variables, after a period id expect a sharp drop in strength and thus forth you could say they are eating. Futher to this some hydro growers use this drop to dictate increases in ferts by how fast and much it drops. Say that 300ppm droped to 250ppm in two days then i wouldnt increase it but say it drops to 100ppm then the initial 300ppm is too low and needs increasing.

No one says you have to dial it in but it is certainly a medium that can be dialled in for almost every variable and to awesome results. A rez needs the right temperatures, aeration, and sterilization or you run into fail...
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Kingrow1 said:
Saying you run at 300ppms in hydro only describes a limited set of variables, after a period id expect a sharp drop in strength and thus forth you could say they are eating. Futher to this some hydro growers use this drop to dictate increases in ferts by how fast and much it drops. Say that 300ppm droped to 250ppm in two days then i wouldnt increase it but say it drops to 100ppm then the initial 300ppm is too low and needs increasing.

No one says you have to dial it in but it is certainly a medium that can be dialled in for almost every variable and to awesome results. A rez needs the right temperatures, aeration, and sterilization or you run into fail...
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I agree total, my whole point is that until OP gets his plants roots healthy we can only speculate as to his issues if any because right now his issue is just that, he has rot. And as I said I was quite surprised at my EC, that was halfway through the res change so not sure what I started at, pretty sure it was higher ;).
 
chasingwaterfalls

chasingwaterfalls

Active Member
All I had was hydroguard, but I ordered a bottle of orca (mycorrhizae) that's coming this week.

Plants responding well to the stronger nute concentration and cooler water. New growth looking great, yellowing only from the initial messup
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
chasingwaterfalls said:
All I had was hydroguard, but I ordered a bottle of orca (mycorrhizae) that's coming this week.

Plants responding well to the stronger nute concentration and cooler water. New growth looking great, yellowing only from the initial messup
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I'm trying to buy a used chiller, just waiting to hear back, my passive one doesn't work great when it gets hotter than 60 for a period :(. Hydroguard was what I used to save mine, plus the cool res. one plant had one brown root lol.
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
theslipperbandit said:
Ypu cant top her or anything fun u just plop em in their final pots hope for the best n potency is low
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Well I'm still looking for the one that finishes in July and is kick ass but yup it's been a search in futility. The think different I grew last year was ok .... mid shelf and done mid summer so perhaps there is one better, I'll keep searching then CS the shit out of it :).
 
Kingrow1

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Budley Doright said:
I'm trying to buy a used chiller, just waiting to hear back, my passive one doesn't work great when it gets hotter than 60 for a period :(. Hydroguard was what I used to save mine, plus the cool res. one plant had one brown root lol.
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Used, i know their pricey but why take the risk.

The price does suck for bigger rez's...
 
chasingwaterfalls

chasingwaterfalls

Active Member
theslipperbandit said:
Ypu cant top her or anything fun u just plop em in their final pots hope for the best n potency is low
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I know potency used to be an issue, but it may no longer be the case? This is only my impression from reading up online, so I'm not sure - but this is also why I'm giving these autos a chance.

I'm out in Amsterdam rn, and autos are gaining popularity (at least for now). Some seed banks have a third to a half of their catalogue as auto strains.

Seeing/smoking some of the nugs, i dont think i could discern between photo and auto bud of the same kind of strain from the same grower.

Edit: not that Amsterdam holds the absolute best in the way of standards; weed-wise, they certainly do things well, but the culture is frozen in time.
 
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G

Gumplestilsken

New Member
The yellowing like that is a nitrogen deficiency. The brown spots is a Cal Mag deficiency.
Just keep your temperatures down under 70 and get your ppm's up, if you do it slowly and you end up going too far you'll see the plants leaves look like Talons, that means too much nitrogen.
Consider starting again if they done snap out within 10 days
 
Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
Gumplestilsken said:
The yellowing like that is a nitrogen deficiency. The brown spots is a Cal Mag deficiency.
Just keep your temperatures down under 70 and get your ppm's up, if you do it slowly and you end up going too far you'll see the plants leaves look like Talons, that means too much nitrogen.
Consider starting again if they done snap out within 10 days
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It will probably take 10 days to get the roots healthy enough to take up the nutrients properly :).
 
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Budley Doright

Budley Doright

Well-Known Member
chasingwaterfalls said:
I know potency used to be an issue, but it may no longer be the case? This is only my impression from reading up online, so I'm not sure - but this is also why I'm giving these autos a chance.

I'm out in Amsterdam rn, and autos are gaining popularity (at least for now). Some seed banks have a third to a half of their catalogue as auto strains.

Seeing/smoking some of the nugs, i dont think i could discern between photo and auto bud of the same kind of strain from the same grower.

Edit: not that Amsterdam holds the absolute best in the way of standards; weed-wise, they certainly do things well, but the culture is frozen in time.
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I'm not sure yet if their ever going to impress me but I've only tried 5 and only outdoors. Outdoor grows are where I think they make most sense if growing in an illegal place where an early finish is huge.
 
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