Is this a boron deficiency?

Mo9000

Active Member
I noticed a few small brown spots on the new growth of one branch on my plant about 12 hours ago and now the leaves are shrivelling up, looking twisted and are turning completely brown, they also feel quite firm now and i suspect will begin to start drying out and dieing, it kind of looks like a boron deficiency to me but im not sure as ive never actually it myself, only seen pictures, any help is greatly appreciated. WP_20171028_21_00_55_Pro.jpgWP_20171028_22_02_47_Pro.jpg
 
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bullSnot

Well-Known Member
not much space between nodes. seems too much of something. I'm a soil and organic man. I just like the buffer soil and all the living organism provide.
 

Mo9000

Active Member
Y
It's not good what ever it is. Probably not boron as I spend a lot of time in the problem section and can not recall anyone being given a diagnosis that their problem was boron.
Others will chime in. This google link on twisting cannabis leaves might help IDK.
https://www.google.com/search?q=cannabis+leaves+twisting&source=lnms&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwia6_Sl3pXXAhUM2oMKHUT4BM8Q_AUICSgA&biw=1301&bih=621&dpr=1.05
Yeah i know its quite uncommon, but the causes and symptoms of what ive read seem to be on par with my situation. Nothing else seems to resemble the problem, but thanks a lot.
 

Mo9000

Active Member
With nothing but a picture, we can sit and guess. Soil/ Hydro? Temps? Nutes? pH? Auto/ photo? RO/Tap?
Yeah sorry, was in a bit of a rush yesterday when i posted this, wasnt thinking straight. Growing in coco/perlite, about 70 coco/ 30 perlite keeping ph at around 6 but not fixed on 6 as ive read its good to let ph fluctuate a little but i never stray more than 0,1 or 0,2 up or down really. Dont have a way of checking temp or humidity at the moment, but its definitely not very hot as im growing under cfls and i have decent ventilation and circulation, but its definitely not cold either. Sorry i know my observation on the temperature is stupid, and doesnt really mean anything but its the best i can do at the moment. Growing from bag seed (photo) using tap water, nutrients are bio-grow (8-2-6) for veg and bio-bloom (2-6-3.5) for flower, from a dutch company called bio-bizz (dont know if you would have heard of them) who make strictly organic nutrients (i have verry little knowledge on nutrients, but this is what was recomended to me at my local hydro shop), i am also using a cal/mag nitrate which also contains boron.
 

bullSnot

Well-Known Member
tap water has chlorine - most likely - it can do funky stuff to plants - tight nodes, freckles and stuff. It will evaporate if you let water stand for 48 hours or so. could be genetics
 

Mo9000

Active Member
tap water has chlorine - most likely - it can do funky stuff to plants - tight nodes, freckles and stuff. It will evaporate if you let water stand for 48 hours or so. could be genetics
Wow your getting me thinking now because i was doing that up until about a week or 2 ago but now ive used water straight from the tap for last few waterings and now im having these problems so i think you could definitely be on to something. But yeah my friend told me to do this with my water, i didnt think it would make much of a difference though, so i just got a bit lazy and kep forgetting to leave water out. But ill definitely continue doing that now and see how the plant responds. Thank you for the input, much appreciated.
 

hyroot

Well-Known Member
Either boron or molybdenum def.

Your method of growing is irrelavent to determining a type of deficiency.

How you fix it it matters.

Both boron or molybedenum can be remedied with kelp meal tea foliar


It also lools like the ambient temp is too high from the flaring leaves
 

Mo9000

Active Member
Either boron or molybdenum def.

Your method of growing is irrelavent to determining a type of deficiency.

How you fix it it matters.

Both boron or molybedenum can be remedied with kelp meal tea foliar


It also lools like the ambient temp is too high from the flaring leaves
Ok thank you so much, this helps a lot. Yeah temperature in the closet can get quite warm some times but i have two small fans directed at the plant, seems to keep the air cooler around the pot. I using cfls by the way so it gets a bit warm, but not hot.
 

bullSnot

Well-Known Member
Wow your getting me thinking now because i was doing that up until about a week or 2 ago but now ive used water straight from the tap for last few waterings and now im having these problems so i think you could definitely be on to something. But yeah my friend told me to do this with my water, i didnt think it would make much of a difference though, so i just got a bit lazy and kep forgetting to leave water out. But ill definitely continue doing that now and see how the plant responds. Thank you for the input, much appreciated.
My tap water comes out at 9.1 - 9.3 PH - I have never seen tap water like that, come to find out they elevate the PH to keep the Chlorine active longer. I used to have a filter on my outside hose and fill up a few 4 gallon water jugs.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
Skip the Cal/Mag with tap water. Drop your pH to 5.8. Ph "Drift" only works in Hydro with a solution like DWC and Ebb and Flow. Water at 5.8 for the best uptake.
 

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Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
Either boron or molybdenum def.

Your method of growing is irrelavent to determining a type of deficiency.

How you fix it it matters.

Both boron or molybedenum can be remedied with kelp meal tea foliar


It also lools like the ambient temp is too high from the flaring leaves
Or the correct pH.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
tap water has chlorine - most likely - it can do funky stuff to plants - tight nodes, freckles and stuff. It will evaporate if you let water stand for 48 hours or so. could be genetics
Chloramine won't evaporate. Vitamin C or Ascorbic Acid will remove both.
 

Jypsy Dog

Well-Known Member
My tap water comes out at 9.1 - 9.3 PH - I have never seen tap water like that, come to find out they elevate the PH to keep the Chlorine active longer. I used to have a filter on my outside hose and fill up a few 4 gallon water jugs.
You just make that up??
Understanding the relationship between pH and Chlorine effectiveness

The disinfectant power of Free Chlorine is relative to the pH of the water.
As pH increases, the chlorine becomes less effective. As pH decreases, the chlorine becomes more effective

pH Effectiveness of Free Chlorine
6.0 97%
7.0 75%
7.2 63%
7.5 49%
7.6 39%
7.8 28%
8.0 3%
Source: NSW Health Advisory Dec 2012
 

bullSnot

Well-Known Member
You just make that up??
Understanding the relationship between pH and Chlorine effectiveness

The disinfectant power of Free Chlorine is relative to the pH of the water.
As pH increases, the chlorine becomes less effective. As pH decreases, the chlorine becomes more effective

pH Effectiveness of Free Chlorine
6.0 97%
7.0 75%
7.2 63%
7.5 49%
7.6 39%
7.8 28%
8.0 3%
Source: NSW Health Advisory Dec 2012
maybe it is to keep fluoride active...short term memory thing again...oh wait I think it is to keep pipes from corroding - it is an old water system..too mush S%#$ to remember.

Yup - corrosiveness "In 1996, City began adding sodium carbonate and carbon dioxide to adjust the water’s pH and buffering capacity. This change has made the water less corrosive, "
 
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