Is the Rev full of shit about humic and fulvic acids?

I started using only MH for everything because my HPS got too hot...I have a switchable ballast, but I figured if it could take both bulbs all I had to do was change the bulb, but now I am hearing that there is a switch you should switch or a turn to turn...I have 2 knob looking things, but they don't seem to do anything when I turn them...lol. Anyway I used the HPS bulb for 2 months and then took it back out and used the MH, noticed that a lot of my heat issues were resolved...so when it was time for those plants to switch to HPS I didn't switch...I looked up using MH for flower on here, and everyone said it won't work right, your buds will be airy...so on and so forth...then I found some thing where jorge cervantez had said that you could use MH for flower, and that anything lost in yield was gained in crystals, but that he had noticed very little difference...So I was like ok then...and I just left it...but more and more all I saw on the boards when people ask this question is that no...terrible things will happen if you flower at MH...so here i am looking at this same plant only 3 weeks along, and it looked great then too...



Same plant...pic taken 2 weeks earlier than last...

so in 2 weeks look at the difference...
\

Rocklock at 3 weeks flower


Same plant, same light, same tent, same spot 2 weeks later at 5 weeks flower under nothing but MH




So I could have told you to flower with a MH and get great results...Then again I could have saved you about $220 as well...lololloloolooloolllll....This guy told you you needed some special expensive light to flower with a MH? So you bought one...when all you needed was a plain old MH...lol.
It's alright...I got a 400w CMH, and the results are again no better, or worse than MH alone...so I could have saved money and just bought another MH way cheaper...could have gotten a 1000w...but we are all learning...that is my next upgrade when next I see a used set on craigslist or a sale..anyway I want to get a 1000w MH for flowering, and then move the CMH and use it for veg...Because I talked with a fellow on here the other day that uses HPS like I use MH...he uses no Mh for veg...HPS for whole grow...there were some differences, but his plants looked Awesome...so I learned something...I had also heard that HPS will make veg plants stretch..this is not terribly true...I mean a little stretch, but not enough to even call it stretching...anyway his plants looked great..
Here are the reasons I don't like HPS lights...

A. I can't take pics
B. Orange light makes everything look ugly
C. They get too damn hot (although mine may have been malfunctioning cuz at one point I started to doubt myself and even my own results, so I figured a few hours of HPS a week wouldn't hurt and might help...so I hooked that bulb in, and it came on, ran for about an hour and then it started...

What started you may ask?---You know when you first got the light and hooked it up for the first time, and it came on but like kinda dim and then it starts getting brighter and brighter and brighter and when you think your eyeballs will melt it settles there...? To the normal brightness...anyway it started at normal birghtness and then it started getting brighter and brighter and brighter like the sun...and then like a flash grenade, and then I jerked the freaking plug out...I couldn't actually see to get to it...anyway when I got it unplugged the like element in the bulb was white hot, slowly fading to orange and 10 minutes under the fan got it cool enough to take out...so if there is a setting I need to find it, or that bulb was bad...but after being blinded by that son of a bitching HPS I never got another one...bitch ass light...

anyway as you can see by the length of my post, I am pretty buzzed off my orange light free bud...so sorry for the ranting...I am sure there is wisdom in there somewhere...Just hidden in lengthy superfluous words....I gotta go...lol ahahahahahahahahahaaaa

Nullis said:

I have read Rev state before that for breeders it is probably best not to use humic or fulvic acids or any chelating agents for that matter, or if you are going to use them on plants you plan to breed with do so sparingly. The reasoning for this is sound: if you're going to be breeding plants then you probably want to choose the ones that fare well with very little outside inputs/care, aside from the other traits you're breeding for (smell, stature, potency, pest resistance, etc).

Synthetic chelating agents force feed plants. Humic and fulvic acids help shuttle nutrients into plant roots as well, and help make nutrients more mobile within the plant, but they also play other roles in the soil food web.

Let's say you have mold or pest resistance as a breeding goal. You wouldn't want to spray your potential breeding material with pesticides or fungicides because then you wouldn't know which plants possess any natural resistance. In the same respect if you're using chelating agents, or additional humic/fulvic acids, you're not going to be able to tell which plants handle nutrients efficiently by themselves.

Click to expand...

But don't most nutrients use this technique now? So don't most people end up exposing their plants to this at some point? I mean anything will grow better organically doesn't mean you should not let the plants do well so you know what will happen if they are grown shitty...that doesn't make sense....I have a plant I think someone bred that way...It hates any nutes at all...I fed it once at 6 months veg, and it's leaves curled over again...I have only seen this strain with straight leaves once, and it took 3 months of straight water before they straightened...So I waited 3 months and then tried to feed again and Bam...curly plant again...she also likes to be dry...all the time...so someone took a bunch of plants and left them alone for weeks at a time...then would just hose them down for a few minutes and then leave again...and the plants that survived went on to breed and make the strain I have now apparently...

There is a lazy seed breeder at DNA then...lol...

Not really she is just mostly sativa and doesn't like nutes at all...I mean it's alright or whatever, just kinda boring...It took 4 years of using the same soil, but now I don't have to nute it at all...I just water with water...

If you're growing organically in soil, or soil-less with earthworm castings, compost or humus, then there are humic/fulvic acids involved. However, if you're also supplementing with liquid humic/fulvic acid, or worse nutrients that contain synthetic chelating agents, then you're giving the plants a boost that probably isn't conducive to breeding naturally vigorous plants. Has nothing to do with not 'letting' the plants do well, or 'growing them shitty'. Just because you aren't masking a plants genetic deficits with chelating agents, pesticides or what have you doesn't mean they are being 'grown shitty'. To the contrary, only the strongest should survive and produce better offspring. For breeding purposes, that is what is going to show you which plants are the most vigorous and able to fend for themselves... not pampering them. That doesn't mean that the plants created as a result of such breeding can't be grown with humic/fulvic acids supplements or have pesticides sprayed on the preemptively.

There is nothing wrong with a vigorous, low maintenance, nutrient efficient plant.

I am using this humic fulvic liquid, it is very black and very oily... it raises PH of water so it is clearly not acidic how someone stated before.
I am using it for the first time and i cannot tell anything negative, plants seems to like it (i grow in Soil, Sannies jack F7 ATM)..
Behind on insturctions it says 1-3 ml per liter of water and until week 4 of flower. I am on week 3 flower now so i guess i used it for the last time and i alwais gave 1ml per liter of water once a week.

If your using teas don't bother with bottled crap. Just brew teas more often and you should be good. Also try foiliar sprays with tess, microbes can help with the leaves as well and help keep bad pests away with healthy microbes on the leaves