visajoe1
Well-Known Member
cobby, do you know who this might be? looks pretty nice
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/grd/6175699346.html
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sfv/grd/6175699346.html
Introducing CobKits.com - specializing in DIY and Citizen COBs
Hey just curious if your getting any 130mm heating in soon? I was hoping to put 28 clu48 1212 3500k 90cri build together I wanted to run them at 1400ma would the 120mm be ok for that passively with little airflow? I was also looking at your cree xpe strips I was thinking 200w of the 660nm would be a good addition to the cobs for a total 1600w output. What is the recommended current for the xpe strips?
CobKits
Well-Known Member
yeah i have a bunch of 133s coming in, prob 2 more weeks. for your application at 50W/cob the 120s are fine tho
voltage draw at a given current depends on the color, these are all in series, in general 700-1000 mA
http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampXPEHEW.pdf
http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampXPE-25A.pdf
lpc35-700 is a good match. 700 mA, 48V max
voltage draw at a given current depends on the color, these are all in series, in general 700-1000 mA
http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampXPEHEW.pdf
http://www.cree.com/led-components/media/documents/XLampXPE-25A.pdf
lpc35-700 is a good match. 700 mA, 48V max
How many watts would each strip have at 700ma? I was hoping for 8 strips around 25watt each
I was hoping for 660nm are you getting more on stock soon?
CobKits
Well-Known Member
i can, or you can get them directly from cutter. my plan was to buy a bunch at a time so people in the states could buy a few at a time quickly without international shipping. if i have to order a few at a time that i dont have, the unit cost will be higher due to shipping so thats something you might as well do yourself
i was supposed to get more 660s the order was sent to me partially filled
i was supposed to get more 660s the order was sent to me partially filled
krankenphleger
Active Member
Can you ship to Germany?
krankenphleger
Active Member
yes I did email you. Sorry for the double question.
I am getting noobed so hard right now on a build. Third build in the last two months, and a repeat of my second build. HLG-185H-C1400B driver paired with 4 gen 6 Citizen CLU048-1212's.
Only difference this time is I used BJB holders which I'm not sure I prefer over the Ideals.
Anyway, wired in series, quadruple (nah, like 30x) have gone over my wiring, 18 gauge solid core with no kinks or abrasions. I created a quick disconnect as I intend to run the driver remote like two feet outside of my tent using Anderson Powerpoles.
Hitting the + and - out of the driver with nothing hooked up showed 144ish volts on multimeter so I know that's working, but have no idea how to check the light-side + and - plug that I made for myself, with the (+) going to the first of 4 cobs' positive (then series down to the end), and the (-) of the last light going back to the (-) of the plug. I have a feeling one of these BJB holders aren't making proper contact
arg. this was supposed to be easy haha. I still have two more to build but I'm apprehensive to start them without knowing wth is going on with this first failure. Because this was supposed to be an easy repeat of an existing build I opted to use thermal adhesive paste on the chips so I'm in some shit
Only difference this time is I used BJB holders which I'm not sure I prefer over the Ideals.
Anyway, wired in series, quadruple (nah, like 30x) have gone over my wiring, 18 gauge solid core with no kinks or abrasions. I created a quick disconnect as I intend to run the driver remote like two feet outside of my tent using Anderson Powerpoles.
Hitting the + and - out of the driver with nothing hooked up showed 144ish volts on multimeter so I know that's working, but have no idea how to check the light-side + and - plug that I made for myself, with the (+) going to the first of 4 cobs' positive (then series down to the end), and the (-) of the last light going back to the (-) of the plug. I have a feeling one of these BJB holders aren't making proper contact
arg. this was supposed to be easy haha. I still have two more to build but I'm apprehensive to start them without knowing wth is going on with this first failure. Because this was supposed to be an easy repeat of an existing build I opted to use thermal adhesive paste on the chips so I'm in some shit
Thermal paste adhesive, foolish but the holder's slight reflector quality and push to connect was more appealing than soldering. Little did I know that the chips don't lock in quite the same on the BJBs as they do with the Ideals so I'm drilling the heatsinks anyway. And using normal thermal paste for the next 8 cobs.
I just checked and the wire I used was 14 gauge not 18 gauge
solid copper wire, 600v on jacketing. This worked fine for the ideal holder build last month but appears to have pushed the inner terminals/contacts of the bjb holders sideways. I was wondering how they were swallowing up so much stripped wire.And I just took another reflector off and confirmed this is indeed what happened, giant wire wrecked shop. pushed too hard expecting it to bottom out
CobKits
Well-Known Member
14GA is out of spec for both ideals and BJBs.I just checked and the wire I used was 14 gauge not 18 gauge
they can both take can take 18 stranded or 18 solid.
14GA has no use for cob wiring. If you understand wire ampacity, its not a match to the COB's current requirements.
it would be pretty easy to set new holders down on top of your glued chips
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KonopCh
Well-Known Member
@CobKits I have 6x 1212 driven at 1.05A (HLG-240H-C1050A). Today I received W meter and I measure how much W consumes my light. Fully dimmed is at 87W, and at 100% is at 280W. How is that possible? It supposed to be from 110 to 220W.
Also V is constant at 230V, amperage is from 0,41 to 1,25A. Driver supposed to be only 1,05A??
Also V is constant at 230V, amperage is from 0,41 to 1,25A. Driver supposed to be only 1,05A??
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pop22
Well-Known Member
@CobKits
Hey! I'm trying to figure out a driver for these strip leds: Bridgelux BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-A3. I'm looking to run 4 to maybe 10 strips. Can you help?
here's the specs:
Flux @ Current/Temperature - Test 4820 lm (Typ)
Current - Test 700mA
Temperature - Test 50°C
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 44.2V
Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test 156 lm/W
Current - Max 1.4A
Hey! I'm trying to figure out a driver for these strip leds: Bridgelux BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-A3. I'm looking to run 4 to maybe 10 strips. Can you help?
here's the specs:
Flux @ Current/Temperature - Test 4820 lm (Typ)
Current - Test 700mA
Temperature - Test 50°C
Voltage - Forward (Vf) (Typ) 44.2V
Lumens/Watt @ Current - Test 156 lm/W
Current - Max 1.4A
Yes and no... Just because the driver is pulling that much from the wall does not mean you are getting more juice to your COBS. The only way to check what you are outputting to each cob is to test at the chip.
The reason you are pulling 168w is you probably have 120v AC delivery. The datasheet on the drivers shows 115v input for 120w @ 1.4a. Drive 120v @ 1.4a and you get 168w. If your cobs are rated for 48v, the max current theoretically is 2.5a which is 120w. The only way to deliver (if the current rating is a true MAX) more power would to use a higher voltage COB (say 50v COB on a 48V driver) which is why people use a driver that does not "look" like it will deliver enough but in the end it will.
I have not actually checked the voltage/amp at the cobs so maybe I will tonight. I highly doubt you will see close to 168w though no matter what you are running @ the chips.