#☆$%'ing botrytis

spilly1

Well-Known Member
I cant believe I just chopped a plant this early. Pretty sure the garden-sitter was overwatering, at night to boot, while I was on vacation. Autoflower jack herer, 2 weeks from finishing. Other plants are fine but I battle this shit every f'ing year, climate being what it is oceanside on the west coast. My photos have at least a month left.

Anyway who has experience with organic fungicides . Is green cure any good? What's safe? Suggestions, pls.
 

Subu

Well-Known Member
If you have fungus problems every year then blaming it on your garden sitter with such limited information may be a bit of a jump.
 

thumper60

Well-Known Member
I cant believe I just chopped a plant this early. Pretty sure the garden-sitter was overwatering, at night to boot, while I was on vacation. Autoflower jack herer, 2 weeks from finishing. Other plants are fine but I battle this shit every f'ing year, climate being what it is oceanside on the west coast. My photos have at least a month left.

Anyway who has experience with organic fungicides . Is green cure any good? What's safe? Suggestions, pls.
serenade seems to help here on the east coast
 

spilly1

Well-Known Member
...uh thanks not blaming. Just saying I stick to a strict watering schedule to ensure things don't get too moist and I usually dont see botrytis till late September, and I'm curious what other outdoor enthusiasts are using to fight it.
 
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Cx2H

Well-Known Member
Botrytis cinerea can be managed through cultural, chemical, and biological practices.

There are no resistant species to the gray mold rot. Gray mold can be culturally controlled by monitoring the amount and timing of fertilizer applications to reduce the amount of fruit rot. Excessive application of nitrogen will increase the incidence of disease while not improving yields.[3]

Planting cultivars that don’t have an upright or dense growth habit can reduce disease as these limit airflow and are favorable for the pathogen. Spacing of plants so they are not touching will increase airflow allowing the area to dry out and reduce the spread of disease. Pruning or purposeful removal of diseased, dead, or overgrown limbs on a regular schedule can also help to improve air movement.[4]

Sanitation by removing dead or dying plant tissue in the fall will decrease inoculum levels as there is no debris for the sclerotium or mycelia to overwinter. Removing debris in the spring will remove inoculum from the site. Disposal of berries during harvest that have signs and symptoms of gray mold will reduce inoculum for the following year.

Biochar, a form of charcoal, can be applied as a soil amendment to strawberry plants to reduce the severity of the fungal disease by stimulating defense pathways within the plant.[16]

Gray mold can be chemically controlled with well-timed fungicide applications starting during the first bloom. Timing can reduce the chance of resistance and will save on costs.[3]

Biological controls or microbial antagonistsused for disease suppression, have been successfully used in Europe and Brazil in the form of fungi-like Trichoderma harzianiumRifai and Gliocladium roseum Bainier.[16]Trichoderma species especially, have been shown to control gray mold.
Sorry for the quote maybe it will get ideas.
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
Some of my stuff flowered early. May and June early. It rains almost everyday in June and July {and so far in August too} here in NW Florida. I had two almost finish before I had to chop, and three more get several weeks in. Some other plants are rotting, and they haven't even started to flower.

I did spray with BT, but honestly I don't think worms were that much of an issue. I only found one when I took down the Ass Cheese Blues. I trim off the rot and spray with H2O2. Hard to say how much it helps. Too much rain for anything to work well.

I've got to wait til June or July to plant it looks like. Or stick to my more sativa strains. They seem to handle the wet better.
 

Rob Roy

Well-Known Member
Here's what I try to do regarding mold ...

Spray the mold with hydrogen peroxide BEFORE picking it out. Keeps airborne spores to a minimum. Carefully bag and discard the moldy plant parts. Dollar stores sell 3% hydrogen peroxide and spray bottles.

Disinfect hands / cutting tools before handling other plants, so you don't spread mold.

Don't be afraid to remove a heavily infected plant before it gives the other girls bad ideas. Infected plants don't care how hard you wish they weren't infected, they will corrupt your healthy girls if they are allowed to hang around long enough.

Remove dead or dying leaves / debris from plant and from around the base of the plant / general grow area. Remove blackened or faded petioles as that's a place mold loves to get a toehold.

I like serenade as a preemptive measure when they're in veg, not so much when they are heavily into flower. (can leave funky odor and taste) Spray the stem, branches and any exposed areas from branches splitting away from main trunk too.

Look diligently for "leader leaves" and remove them. They're the sneaky little leaves that project from a bud and as they decay the mold hitchhikes a ride into the middle of your bud and creates havoc. Sometimes you can save a large bud if you catch the leader leaf soon enough. If you're too late, remove the entire bud and trash it.

Acquire and / or create more resistant strains. Pollinate and continue to grow the resistant ones, reject the mold magnets as outdoor plants.

Pay attention to plant siting, airflow and the local weather. Pray to the Ganja Gods.

Good luck to everybody, the budding season is upon us and mold is hungry.
 
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