I'm bored

ivioto

Well-Known Member
I also highly HIGHLY recommend utilizing your fishtanks water to feed your plants.
I did that for over 15 yrs and it's the best thing for your plants.
Especially if you have a biowheel for your filter.
Do a 10% water change every ten days. Vacuum the fishturds out of the gravel and it's pure gold for your plants.
Err, assuming that's a fresh water tank, looks like it is.
I see a goldfish or perhaps a golden gourami in there..
Digging the fish tank premise. Going to experiment. Tank has always been natural, never had to squirt any crap in. Just RO and well water.

Also regarding planter size I'll be tracking these would be mothers that got shoved into flower. I've NEVER been on to let my plants bind up. However, you're totally right they've been in the normal flight pattern an extra 40 days! So damn... Nice call:-). I'm still plagued with my gut feeling of acidic piles and haphazard techniques I've been mimicking the rev. Oh well. Lots of fun for sure. - photos and bigger pots to come. - My PH snuck up on me but I saw it coming, only from knowing my plants health very closely. Meters and kits soon confirmed. Never had plant health issues for 18 months. Happy with the long run of great fortune. Now, time to find my *#%# up. Peace and love thanks a million.
 

ivioto

Well-Known Member
Just experience.
that's a big-girl for that pot.
My rule (for organics anyways) is 2 gallons of media per foot of growth (untrained).
That plant needs (needed) at least ten gals if not fifteen.
Just watch, next time, transplant about 20 days before flipping and give her some room, and i'd be willing to bet my wallet the plant will be much nicer, not that that one isn't, it just would be happier and better if it had a lil more room.
if you are growing hydro, you may want to ask for someone else's advice, I grow organically and can only offer my experience on that.
One thing I know, is typically PH problems manifest themselves slowly, but it all depends on what you put them in.
Obviously if you throw them in a mix that is acidic with drainage issues and it'll get pissed at you fairly quick.
Chemical test says 6.5-7.0 (repeated numerous times)
Electronic reports sever acidic 4.5
Veg room looks brilliant and happy
Testers are in "known" acidic recycle.. and are coming up strong and happy
Outdoors my hair brain is doing well
indoor tomatos are coming along :)
Mixing in some goodies. Turning piles between throwing out back!
My girls are hanging tough and I feel are doing well, even in the suspect PH spoil (with exceptions of 4 monsters you called me on)
Yes indeed sir you are correct again Mr greasemonkey! I quickly found 15 days before 12/12 was better than 10. Will try 20.
Also, jumping from a "NC7" up to big blue #20 bin made twice the yield! Frigging stunning! BUT... "NC10" seem negligible. More controlled Experiments to come.
Honestly, I'm kinda frozen.. Treading lightly, reading frequently.
Happy to of found a place to chat it out... If ya can't tell :shock:
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greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Digging the fish tank premise. Going to experiment. Tank has always been natural, never had to squirt any crap in. Just RO and well water.

Also regarding planter size I'll be tracking these would be mothers that got shoved into flower. I've NEVER been on to let my plants bind up. However, you're totally right they've been in the normal flight pattern an extra 40 days! So damn... Nice call:-). I'm still plagued with my gut feeling of acidic piles and haphazard techniques I've been mimicking the rev. Oh well. Lots of fun for sure. - photos and bigger pots to come. - My PH snuck up on me but I saw it coming, only from knowing my plants health very closely. Meters and kits soon confirmed. Never had plant health issues for 18 months. Happy with the long run of great fortune. Now, time to find my *#%# up. Peace and love thanks a million.
regarding ph, I can't help in that regard either, unless you are simply asking for theory.
I haven't ph'ed anything since the Clinton administration.
I highly recommend getting a big leaf-based compost, and a good wormbin, those two are more important than almost anything else.
I do know that PH can be altered merely by the amount of nutrients in the soil, meaning in a root bound plant, you are certainly going to have a good amount of undissolved stuff in there, and all that alters the ph read. Especially considering that often times people add nutrients, thinking that's the problem.
I have known some organic growers that have tested their living soil (just for the hell of it) that produces the nicest herb you could imagine and often the soil is somewhat acidic. Organics give you a large leeway on that, not to mention the microbes influence the ph all the time as well.
PPM, PH, and the like are all hydro stuff, in my opinion, Much more crucial in those techniques
 

ivioto

Well-Known Member
regarding ph, I can't help in that regard either, unless you are simply asking for theory.
I haven't ph'ed anything since the Clinton administration.
I highly recommend getting a big leaf-based compost, and a good wormbin, those two are more important than almost anything else.
I do know that PH can be altered merely by the amount of nutrients in the soil, meaning in a root bound plant, you are certainly going to have a good amount of undissolved stuff in there, and all that alters the ph read. Especially considering that often times people add nutrients, thinking that's the problem.
I have known some organic growers that have tested their living soil (just for the hell of it) that produces the nicest herb you could imagine and often the soil is somewhat acidic. Organics give you a large leeway on that, not to mention the microbes influence the ph all the time as well.
PPM, PH, and the like are all hydro stuff, in my opinion, Much more crucial in those techniques
:clap::peace: You are to cool. Thanks a million.
 

ivioto

Well-Known Member
regarding ph, I can't help in that regard either, unless you are simply asking for theory.
I haven't ph'ed anything since the Clinton administration.
I highly recommend getting a big leaf-based compost, and a good wormbin, those two are more important than almost anything else.
I do know that PH can be altered merely by the amount of nutrients in the soil, meaning in a root bound plant, you are certainly going to have a good amount of undissolved stuff in there, and all that alters the ph read. Especially considering that often times people add nutrients, thinking that's the problem.
I have known some organic growers that have tested their living soil (just for the hell of it) that produces the nicest herb you could imagine and often the soil is somewhat acidic. Organics give you a large leeway on that, not to mention the microbes influence the ph all the time as well.
PPM, PH, and the like are all hydro stuff, in my opinion, Much more crucial in those techniques
Anymore theory or chatter about PH? Please!?!? :-) My various dirt bins PH seem to have come up a point. Very pleased. Attribute it to following your recommendations and possibly tea didn't hurt either. I'd gladly listen to your ideas. - Got a worm bin setup today. Also phased in some #10 planters and another #20. - Know of a good big leaf-based compost read? I'll get to looking all the same. Value your input. Beautiful trees up here where I live! - Horse tail, comfrey, coconut and a plethora of other known goodies arrived today. Aloe is growing fantastic. - 33/33/33 mix looks and feels kick ass. Used 6 cubic feet of that alone tonight. Wicked! Something about it has me excited. -- Screwing around with spikes and layers still tonight.. Old habits die hard. So hey, built a #10 of only 33/33/33. No layers or spikes.. No way it wouldn't yellow out on me mid flower??? Right?? 33 and microbe tea alone won't do it? (Blueberry haze) Dupliced it (33 only) and spiked this sister lightly to find out. [_"Super soil"_Spikes & Layers_AACT_] ...how I survive. -- Listening to my gut, reading my notes, picking up TONS of new data and idea from rollitup. Looking to cut back and better understand the workings of macro micro. NPK. EVERYTHING!! :-) For example this 33/33/33 is a first for me. --- All I've ever know is 707 + subcool method. Then I found myself with all this soil piled up and started reclaiming it. But began applying The Rev. techniques and teachings... As Subcool said nothing about recycling. Not sure if you've read REVS TLO book? I've followed his 2.1 recipie / his recycle recipe. If by chance you're aware or have book you'd see the tree I've been barking up.. Recipes and such.

Appreciate your time. Have a good day.
Cheers monkey!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
Anymore theory or chatter about PH? Please!?!? :-) My various dirt bins PH seem to have come up a point. Very pleased. Attribute it to following your recommendations and possibly tea didn't hurt either. I'd gladly listen to your ideas. - Got a worm bin setup today. Also phased in some #10 planters and another #20. - Know of a good big leaf-based compost read? I'll get to looking all the same. Value your input. Beautiful trees up here where I live! - Horse tail, comfrey, coconut and a plethora of other known goodies arrived today. Aloe is growing fantastic. - 33/33/33 mix looks and feels kick ass. Used 6 cubic feet of that alone tonight. Wicked! Something about it has me excited. -- Screwing around with spikes and layers still tonight.. Old habits die hard. So hey, built a #10 of only 33/33/33. No layers or spikes.. No way it wouldn't yellow out on me mid flower??? Right?? 33 and microbe tea alone won't do it? (Blueberry haze) Dupliced it (33 only) and spiked this sister lightly to find out. [_"Super soil"_Spikes & Layers_AACT_] ...how I survive. -- Listening to my gut, reading my notes, picking up TONS of new data and idea from rollitup. Looking to cut back and better understand the workings of macro micro. NPK. EVERYTHING!! :-) For example this 33/33/33 is a first for me. --- All I've ever know is 707 + subcool method. Then I found myself with all this soil piled up and started reclaiming it. But began applying The Rev. techniques and teachings... As Subcool said nothing about recycling. Not sure if you've read REVS TLO book? I've followed his 2.1 recipie / his recycle recipe. If by chance you're aware or have book you'd see the tree I've been barking up.. Recipes and such.

Appreciate your time. Have a good day.
Cheers monkey!
First, thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it.
Also, in regards to plants "yellowing" mid flower, more often than not, I see that as a result of people tryin to do too much to "boost" their flowers, it's crucial to acknowledge that a happy green plant will produce flowers, period. NOW, that being said, I have seen many, MANY, strains, sativas in particular that like to shed their fan leaves, hell I had a strain once, It was a bagseed (remember for the first ten yrs I grew NOTHING but random seeds out of bags I got), anyways the plant damn near trimmed itself, all I had to do was tidy up the colas, even outside it did that, the rest was nice and green, but the fans always dropped like a prom-dress.
There is virtually NO uniformity when it comes to all the types of cannabis, I've seen some very odd, but harmless growing tendencies.
However, that doesn't mean that it's not a nitrogen def, it could be, and if so, the best remedy would be to fortify the soil with more slow release types of nitrogen.
Neem meal, crab meal, shrimp meal, even alfalfa is somewhat slow.
The best and (was) my favorite is feather meal, BUT now evidently it's all tainted by arsenic, so I go with my dog's hair now, and my beard shavings (yea, i'm hardcore) Those are super super slow releases of relatively rich amounts of nitrogen.
There also is a myriad of diff water soluble nitrogens, in fact most ARE water soluble, so you could feed them via teas.
The most potent being, blood meal, and urine. Both around the same like 15-0-0 or 15-1-1.
I don't prefer either they can both be fairly potent. I have used urine many, many times though, (guerrilla grows in particular)
My favorites re dandelion/comfrey fermented tea, and alfalfa tea.
Other effective ways are a mix of topdress with fresh worm castings and shredded comfrey.
Or that same thing only with bat guano in lieu of the comfrey.
If it is a bad nitrogen def and you are POSITIVE that it is indeed the problem, the fastest thing is probably urine.
Somehow people get a lil butthurt about it, but I'd do that over a blood meal tea, and if you pop a couple multivitamins prior?
Who knows.
I knew a grower that used NOTHING but rabbit manure and human urine and his herb was spect-fuckin-tacular.
A bladder full per five gallon bucket is what he'd say.
 
Last edited:

ivioto

Well-Known Member
First, thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it.
Also, in regards to plants "yellowing" mid flower, more often than not, I see that as a result of people tryin to do too much to "boost" their flowers, it's crucial to acknowledge that a happy green plant will produce flowers, period. NOW, that being said, I have seen many, MANY, strains, sativas in particular that like to shed their fan leaves, hell I had a strain once, It was a bagseed (remember for the first ten yrs I grew NOTHING but random seeds out of bags I got), anyways the plant damn near trimmed itself, all I had to do was tidy up the colas, even outside it did that, the rest was nice and green, but the fans always dropped like a prom-dress.
There is virtually NO uniformity when it comes to all the types of cannabis, I've seen some very odd, but harmless growing tendencies.
However, that doesn't mean that it's not a nitrogen def, it could be, and if so, the best remedy would be to fortify the soil with more slow release types of nitrogen.
Neem meal, crab meal, shrimp meal, even alfalfa is somewhat slow.
The best and (was) my favorite is feather meal, BUT now evidently it's all tainted by arsenic, so I go with my dog's hair now, and my beard shavings (yea, i'm hardcore) Those are super super slow releases of relatively rich amounts of nitrogen.
There also is a myriad of diff water soluble nitrogens, in fact most ARE water soluble, so you could feed them via teas.
The most potent being, blood meal, and urine. Both around the same like 15-0-0 or 15-1-1.
I don't prefer either they can both be fairly potent. I have used urine many, many times though, (guerrilla grows in particular)
My favorites re dandelion/comfrey fermented tea, and alfalfa tea.
Other effective ways are a mix of topdress with fresh worm castings and shredded comfrey.
Or that same thing only with bat guano in lieu of the comfrey.
If it is a bad nitrogen def and you are POSITIVE that it is indeed the problem, the fastest thing is probably urine.
Somehow people get a lil butthurt about it, but I'd do that over a blood meal tea, and if you pop a couple multivitamins prior?
Who knows.
I knew a grower that used NOTHING but rabbit manure and human urine and his herb was spect-fuckin-tacular.
A bladder full per five gallon bucket is what he'd say.
Aaaaaaahahahhahahah good lord. I'll be back. Thank you. ... A bladder full. Lmao. :lol:
 

ivioto

Well-Known Member
First, thanks for the kind words, I appreciate it.
Also, in regards to plants "yellowing" mid flower, more often than not, I see that as a result of people tryin to do too much to "boost" their flowers, it's crucial to acknowledge that a happy green plant will produce flowers, period. NOW, that being said, I have seen many, MANY, strains, sativas in particular that like to shed their fan leaves, hell I had a strain once, It was a bagseed (remember for the first ten yrs I grew NOTHING but random seeds out of bags I got), anyways the plant damn near trimmed itself, all I had to do was tidy up the colas, even outside it did that, the rest was nice and green, but the fans always dropped like a prom-dress.
There is virtually NO uniformity when it comes to all the types of cannabis, I've seen some very odd, but harmless growing tendencies.
However, that doesn't mean that it's not a nitrogen def, it could be, and if so, the best remedy would be to fortify the soil with more slow release types of nitrogen.
Neem meal, crab meal, shrimp meal, even alfalfa is somewhat slow.
The best and (was) my favorite is feather meal, BUT now evidently it's all tainted by arsenic, so I go with my dog's hair now, and my beard shavings (yea, i'm hardcore) Those are super super slow releases of relatively rich amounts of nitrogen.
There also is a myriad of diff water soluble nitrogens, in fact most ARE water soluble, so you could feed them via teas.
The most potent being, blood meal, and urine. Both around the same like 15-0-0 or 15-1-1.
I don't prefer either they can both be fairly potent. I have used urine many, many times though, (guerrilla grows in particular)
My favorites re dandelion/comfrey fermented tea, and alfalfa tea.
Other effective ways are a mix of topdress with fresh worm castings and shredded comfrey.
Or that same thing only with bat guano in lieu of the comfrey.
If it is a bad nitrogen def and you are POSITIVE that it is indeed the problem, the fastest thing is probably urine.
Somehow people get a lil butthurt about it, but I'd do that over a blood meal tea, and if you pop a couple multivitamins prior?
Who knows.
I knew a grower that used NOTHING but rabbit manure and human urine and his herb was spect-fuckin-tacular.
A bladder full per five gallon bucket is what he'd say.
What's your vote on me attempting to take a blubbery haze through flower on just 33/33/33 mix alone? No amendments, no spikes, no layers, no compost. -- sound like a fail to me... But I built it with 33 only to experiment. Maybe I should spike it??!
 

greasemonkeymann

Well-Known Member
What's your vote on me attempting to take a blubbery haze through flower on just 33/33/33 mix alone? No amendments, no spikes, no layers, no compost. -- sound like a fail to me... But I built it with 33 only to experiment. Maybe I should spike it??!
depending on the quality of the compost/ewc and it would be possible, but you'd be MUCH better off in an amended soil. I've never spiked or layered anything.
I try to replicate nature as much as I can.
a 33/33/33 should have a third of it as compost or ewc.
You said no compost?
If you are asking for my opinion I can't really see why you'd want to waste a plant and the time doing so with a bare media.
but maybe i'm missing the point of it?
 

ivioto

Well-Known Member
depending on the quality of the compost/ewc and it would be possible, but you'd be MUCH better off in an amended soil. I've never spiked or layered anything.
I try to replicate nature as much as I can.
a 33/33/33 should have a third of it as compost or ewc.
You said no compost?
If you are asking for my opinion I can't really see why you'd want to waste a plant and the time doing so with a bare media.
but maybe i'm missing the point of it?
You're spot on. Thanks for responding. Well said and agreed. --- And durrrr yes its part lobster compost, part EWC. (i'm spacing it) In the past I would call "super soil" compost. I need to stop doing that! One is certainly not the other. Back to the garden, returning tonight to read up. BTW wow some good squabbles on here aye!!?? heheehehehe YIKES! :blsmoke::peace: Good times
 
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