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tokingtiger

tokingtiger

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just got another 400w with 5w diodes. actual draw is 200ish watts. I always just estimate 1/2 actual after checking so many times and it always coming out so close to that amount. In my head, ( scary place), I always figure actual draw from LED to equel real wattage of a HPS. I know the science says the LED should cover more with less but actual results always tells me again that if I keep actual LED draw to what I would need for HPS I do save tons on heat, thus less ac, less heat signature, less $ for my med's. I use my older LED's (3w diodes) for side lighting. plants grow 3 to 4 feet. use an 8ft tent but only have 5 plants and the end has a little chair and box I trim on. neighbors are cool and all but smell is smell, if I climb in and trim there, I also give a nice CO2 dose to tent that day :+) here is link to light, I bought one about 6 months ago and it is working great. had two sidelights finally bite the dust so this will fill in for those.. http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-Shipping-400w-mars-2-led-grow-light-strip-for-medical-plants-greenhouse-and-indoor-plants/1816886365.html
 
tokingtiger

tokingtiger

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Iamlegend2121 said:
Anyone ever try these? http://htgsupply.com/Product-LED-Spotlight-Bulb-TriBand-Spectrum---ONE I figured they might be good for side lighting.
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13 watts = maybe 8 actual watts.. do not believe the hype, it is that simple, it is that true. the link I just placed above is to a store where I just paid $1 = 1 actual draw watt. your light is 7w actual for $30 and does not include shipping. I started off with HTG and every light is now dead. some lost half the light very quickly, I actually found the parent company they drop ship from and it had the same problem. for some reason half the light died fast. I use those for side lighting now. the link above has a store. not sure how small they go but I have gotten a couple that all have lasted better than htg's lights did.. have not bought from htg for lights for a long time.
 
Iamlegend2121

Iamlegend2121

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az2000 said:
13w for $30 of undoubtedly epi-whatever diodes. You can get 18w of Cree for $24 at Home Depot. I flowered under them and got 1g/w.
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I'll probably just grab a couple of those I have some now I got from lowes but they aren't cree brand lowes doesn't carry the Cree for whatever reason and I don't have a homedepot near me. I'll probably just order some online to go along with the two rw-75s
 
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az2000

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Iamlegend2121 said:
I'll probably just order some online to go along with the two rw-75s
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Consider the distance you have to position those PAR38s. The 27-degree spots need about 16-18" for optimum intensity and coverage. The 47-degree floods need about 9". Buy one of each if you're not sure. Point them at a wall and look at the focus at different distances. You'll see what I mean. I used spots with the grow I linked to. They got a little too close (12") and I felt like the top leaves bleached. I had a flood as a sidelight and it was 6-9" and didn't bleach.

So, it all depends on how you intend to mount them, how much distance you can manage.
 
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az2000

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AquariusPanta said:
Bulbs work?
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See the link five posts higher:

az2000 said:
13w for $30 of undoubtedly epi-whatever diodes. You can get 18w of Cree for $24 at Home Depot. I flowered under them and got 1g/w.
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Yes, they work well. I don't know if the PAR38s use XBD or XTE diodes. Either way, COBs are more efficient. But, I believe that providing more sources of light makes (more angles, more coverage) creates its own efficiency.

I grew that at 22w/sq ft and got 1g/w. 23g/sq ft. I've grown with low light like this before and when I increased the light to 32w/sq ft I almost doubled the yield up to 43g/sq ft.

I like them. I really want to try SMD5630/5730. I've got a lot of ideas for little "panels" surrounding a plant. Nice thing about these strip lights is that all the diodes point where you want them. The legacy bulbs are designed to recreate old designs which may be aestically necessary for typical home use. The result is diodes pointing sideways, using PAR-losing reflectors, etc.

Even with all that, the bulbs work very well. But, I think strip lights would work better (but require more work, not as simple as screwing a bulb into a socket).

My problem is that I'm producing more than I need. I have to slow down. I bought some bubble bags and am turning the excess into hash. But now I'm stoned too much to grow. :)
 
JimmyIndica

JimmyIndica

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If your using a fixture for straight flowering. Do you choose 3000k or 4000k Vero29? Is the 4000 more of a full cycle leaning red? Is the 3000k full flower spectrum with the less blues? will you still get tight internode 's with the 3k? Or should you choose 4k for a happy medium?
 
AquariusPanta

AquariusPanta

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JimmyIndica said:
If your using a fixture for straight flowering. Do you choose 3000k or 4000k Vero29? Is the 4000 more of a full cycle leaning red? Is the 3000k full flower spectrum with the less blues? will you still get tight internode 's with the 3k? Or should you choose 4k for a happy medium?
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3000K for flowering when using Vero products 8-).
 
testiclees

testiclees

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tstick said:
testiclees stated that he chose the 4000K because the lens changes the color to 3500K

comments?
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I lifted that detail directly from a supraspl post.

I am using the 4k with the lenses on flowering plants right now. They have been under this light 7 days and are looking fantastic.
 
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warmpie

Member
testiclees said:
I lifted that detail directly from a supraspl post.

I am using the 4k with the lenses on flowering plants right now. They have been under this light 7 days and are looking fantastic.
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I just bought the Optic CXA3070 360w. Is the lenses thing true on this model as well? It didn't give me an option to pick a spectrum when I ordered so I'm not sure what I will be getting. Did the little eyelets that you are hanging your Optic Vero from come with the light or did you add them? The pictures of the lights on the website don't have them. How long did it take to get the light from the time you ordered?
 
mr.smileyface

mr.smileyface

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What you guys think about 300w(192w) 10 spectrum led 3w diodes. I also see marshydro has 1600w cob lights or 5w diodes on 1200w panels.
Gonna use 2 300w panels and a 250hps/mh cooltube in 3x3 tent. U think that would be the same amount of heat/light as a 600w. This is my tent with a 400w hps batwing reflector with 4inch filter/4inline on a 3switch and 6inch duct booster on digi thermostat. And 4 inch duct booster inline. 5 Bc bubba kush day 27/29 just peaking through viewing window. Gonna jump to led and low hps w as i cant do cooling.
 

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testiclees

testiclees

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warmpie said:
I just bought the Optic CXA3070 360w. Is the lenses thing true on this model as well? It didn't give me an option to pick a spectrum when I ordered so I'm not sure what I will be getting. Did the little eyelets that you are hanging your Optic Vero from come with the light or did you add them? The pictures of the lights on the website don't have them. How long did it take to get the light from the time you ordered?
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bro you can call or email and inquire about the spectrum and whether the lenses effect the temp. I gave a call before ordering. they answered my questions politely.

The light came with all required hanging gear and a power cord.

I ordered my light on monday morning and it arrived on friday of the next week.

what size is your grow space? lets see some pice when you receive your lght.

good luck
 
PSUAGRO.

PSUAGRO.

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TBoneJack said:
I want an LED light for vegging only, in a 3.5' x 3.5' grow room, for SCROG grows. I would also have occasion to use it in a 2.5 'x 2.5' grow tent.

I'm considering the California Lightworks VegMaster 220. Here: http://californialightworks.com/product/solarflare-220-vegmaster/

Is this a good choice? I'm just getting so tired of buying replacement bulbs for my T5 fixtures.
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yes that would work nicely..............most led panels are great for veg, almost unbeatable with w/sq ft
 
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