IF you are new to LED and want help choosing what to buy, POST HERE!

Status
Not open for further replies.

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Sorry, but I did not bookmark them. If you drudge through the first 20 pages ~ LED Without LEDs My First T5 Grow (on RIU) you will find them
I Binged that thread and skimmed the first 10 pages and all I came up with pdf wise is the report HoseB is talking about. It's like the Pr0f just took what he wanted from that paper and built a belief system from it, which has been my contention all along with green.

Do we need a green diodes/NWs in there or will CWs or even the interactions of a blue 430nm produce enough green through scattering/attenuation/etc.? I mean I'm of the school you should have some, but how much is the question?
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
The beauty of the Hans panel is it is designed for efficiency and flexibility=== The large diode spacing/ remote driver/ each diode has its own reflector/ Top quality leds and he keeps improving the panel with new advancements in the tech....Surprised no ones copied it yet TBH, Plant photonics panels are very nice as well and have a superior build quality but cost too much IMO.


I know of ZERO led panels(or any indoor light source) that will effectively flower a 4x2 with 130 watts (2 Hans panels)!! at $500 dollars shipped.......Yes FranJan is correct that it's biggest limitation is plant height, you need to train the girls or flip(12/12) very early to deal with this.......Pure sativas are a no/no but I wouldn't grow them indoors anyways:P From what I've seen other growers pull from these panels I wouldn't hesitate to say that they are one of the best on the market for the money and due to their efficient(low watt use) design you can even run it in a sealed room in the summer with no AC !!!>>>>> https://www.rollitup.org/led-other-lighting/531652-testing-hans-panel-56watt-cree.html <<<<seems like a nice grower;-)

Happy shopping
 

multipass

Active Member
I've checked out your grows, psuagro, and they are awesome... and the reason I'm considering that light. Probly do 1 for veg 1 for flower (i do lst/topping for bushy evenness).

I'm totally sold on the hans panels...except that they aren't in the US--having to replace/repair one might not be very possible.

So, seems to be a bit of a gamble.
How is the build quality, any LEDs stop working thru the course of your grows?

thx man!
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
I've checked out your grows, psuagro, and they are awesome... and the reason I'm considering that light. Probly do 1 for veg 1 for flower (i do lst/topping for bushy evenness).

I'm totally sold on the hans panels...except that they aren't in the US--having to replace/repair one might not be very possible.

So, seems to be a bit of a gamble.
How is the build quality, any LEDs stop working thru the course of your grows?

thx man!
His warranty sucks(1year) BUT He uses a good quality MCPCB and all the wire connectors(remote driver connector and grow stage switch) are screw in so it's just a readjustment/ the fan can be replaced easily as well, if the driver fails you can buy a new one(generic china 65watt) and screw it into the led board; bam done. It's a simple design and the good quality leds will last years ....I've had no issues at all with the panel, its packaged and built well..

The most valuable part of this panel are the LEDS and not some flashy colored box/brass hanging loops/huge fans/extreme lenses blah blah.....IT's all about the led quality in this panel

If an LED fails it will show EARLY in its operating hours...so if you see no issues in it's first couple hundred hrs then its good to go the distance......happy shopping:)
 

NewtoMJ

Well-Known Member
I originally was gonna get a CLW, but was able to get an a51 for a deal. The spectrum is 13:2 white to red. should be interesting to see how it does. im excited
 

Hosebomber

Active Member
I Binged that thread and skimmed the first 10 pages and all I came up with pdf wise is the report HoseB is talking about. It's like the Pr0f just took what he wanted from that paper and built a belief system from it, which has been my contention all along with green.

Do we need a green diodes/NWs in there or will CWs or even the interactions of a blue 430nm produce enough green through scattering/attenuation/etc.? I mean I'm of the school you should have some, but how much is the question?
I read the entire thread as well. I seen Prof mention the same and Pet quoted a company website of the NASA study that even NASA rebukes now.

SDS, we've had this discussion before. I'm not saying that green isn't need to some small extent and that the use of whites (cool or warm only) to fill in accessory pigments doesn't work. What I am saying is that we can be more efficient and produce higher quality product using reds, blues, and a small amount of whites (and others) to fill all of those accessory pigments. Place the Astir panel against a Hans panel watt for watt to see what I am referring to.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Place the Astir panel against a Hans panel watt for watt to see what I am referring to.

Do you seriously think that this is only it ?
Spectrum ?

If There's going to be 2x 24 leds of Astir Panels made of high quality Cree/Osram Whites and reds ...
If have some active cooling ...
And better drivers and mcpcbs ....

Then,yes ...
Gladly to do so ...
You'll see to what I'm referring to ,also...

And not Watt to Watt ..
~ 44 vs 56 ...
How does this sound ?


Ganja ,get ready .....
We've work to do ....


And there's the new GD-SDS boxes ,there ....
One of them is close to 2x Han's panels (~ 95 Watts vs 2x 56 Watts ..Correct ? )

Each box having 24x Warm Whites & 12 x 660 Deep reds ....
Soon ,we 'll see ,if it is of lower efficiency than 2x Han's panels ..
...
he_he_he ....

I hope that After harvest ,this "green wls " & "white leds " issue ,will be over for good ....

Patience ...

P.S. :


We can set a Han's vs present cheap Astir ,panel comparison ....
For same wattage ...
With one "condition " .....
At 400 Watts or more .

8x high quality Han's versus 16 x cheapo Astir ..

High flux of red/blue vs high flux of white ..

Can you imagine ,which panels are going to yield more ...?
It would be interesting,to find out ....

$.$$$ vs $$$ .....

Somebody has to do that ....

;-)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Just to prepare the "ground " ......


You can not compare two different panels,made of total different quality and efficiency ,parts .....

Just based on their output spectrum ....

If both are made by same/close quality & efficiency parts (and of close /same efficient design ,of course ..),then yes
one can compare them ,to get some kind of " correct " / "trustworthy" results .....

Now ....
Those (present) Astir panels .....
Even with their cheap design & parts .....
Hmmmmm...
...


The ones of you people,who have a wild imagination ,
set it loose for a minute ,to imagine those Astir panels ,made of high quality/efficiency parts .....

Versus ANY Blue/Red combo panel ,at ~ same Wattage ?

Ha! Piece of cake ...
Simply,a mere piece of cake .....
By far superior ....

What do you say ,brother Eraserhead ?
I'm guessing that you would 've agreed on that ,100% ....

Just preparing the ground ....
Some,probably they're gonna have a "hard " landing ....

.....
Just a bit of patience ,is all what is needed ....


P.S. :

I wonder ....
How fast human memory fades ....
Not that while ago ,we ( almost all of us ),have been growing
plants under a heavy green-yellow spectrum ....( average HPS...)
With lamps of 0.3 efficiency ....

Now ,with leds ....
It's just like the plants also changed "light spectrum " preferences ,
along with the growers changing light type...

Like ...
Millions of years of evolution ,changed like that ...
Just because ,us humans,some decided to go leds ....

Well plants adjust,in fact ...
Up to a certain level ...
Which does not necessarily mean ,that they grow as healthy or vigorous also ....
They grow,yes ..."Thriving " ,is another issue ...

( And ,still ,time has passed since leds first ,were incorporated/used for plant cultivation ....
That was a time that only reds existed and blues were being commercialy available for first time ... ....
White _phosphor_leds ,probably ,did not exist even as an idea , back then ....
..


Ok ....To say the whole truth ..
B/R combos do 'work' really efficient when low overall fluxes,are used ..
It's like plants ,when not much light power "around " ,they "focus " on these two bands ...
Their main PS pigment absorption peaks ...
So,good led combo, for growing green ,leafy bedding plants ..(to cultivate in great numbers ..)
Do not need much light power/ electrical energy to preserve them at a vegetative stage ,during winter ,inside vast greenhouses ..

Waiting for the Spring sunlight ,to come ...

But for inducing heavy flowering to more "needy" plants ?
Nope ...
There you need moderate to high fluxes ,if only art. light is utilised ..
And at moderate/high fluxes ,Red & blue leds ,suck big time ....
They just fry everything underneath them and/or yields are not "up to", the electrical energy used ...

Still today,years after ,some consider that paleolithic combo ,an efficient one ....

Well ,that's their right ,I guess ....
But evolution ,will not wait for them ....
Either they will 'adjust' .....Or 'vanish / extinct' ....)
 
I need help choosing a good led light. I want something mainly in my budget to spend for a light 300-400. But spending that price I want to be able to run at least 6 plants and be able to at least achieve 1oz per per plant more if possible.

I've looked at the blackstars 240s
Pro grow 260
And now looking at the california light works solarflare 200 watt.
My tents are 4x4 and 2x4 I have 600 hps in 1 and a 400 hps in the other..
Recommendations?
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I need help choosing a good led light. I want something mainly in my budget to spend for a light 300-400. But spending that price I want to be able to run at least 6 plants and be able to at least achieve 1oz per per plant more if possible.

I've looked at the blackstars 240s
Pro grow 260
And now looking at the california light works solarflare 200 watt.
My tents are 4x4 and 2x4 I have 600 hps in 1 and a 400 hps in the other..
Recommendations?
Check Area51.
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
Sorry,SnotBogie ..
Carried away ....
Will never happen again ...
I'll take it to my thread ,from here,the whole matter ...
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Thanks Wyte. You're the man.
I also want to thank Wyte for the Sticky........was a long time coming and we needed it.....thanks Bro:)

Your not gonna find an led panel that will effectively flower a 4x4 for under four hundred bucks.....one solar flare (165watt) will disappoint in that space due to it's design (small/high powered footprint)
 

stardustsailor

Well-Known Member
I think you should do a "Precis" of your discussion, for the informational post.... :fire:

I'll give it a small 'shot' .....

Spectrum Choice

That is not the main thing / issue (excuse my english .Not a native language .) that a possible led panel buyer should care about .
Efficient cooling of leds & overall power at plug,are issues of more "weight" ,to think of ...

Spectrum choice should be considered along with overall flux (power ) of light ,that a led fixture/system ,outputs ..
( Flux = Electrical Watts of leds * Efficiency of leds )
...
The lower the overall flux (pc grows / micro grows / 1-2 plants ) ,
should benefit of the highest possible efficiency of (uncovered with phosphor) blue led dies /chips ..
Thus,combining plenty of Red leds ( 620-630-640-650-660 ) along with few blue leds ,can prove a really efficient system ...
Refining with some _few only _ Whites or Far Red leds ( 680-720-730-740-750-some say even 800 nm will do ) ,can have a positive impact also .

As overall flux needed increases ( grow tents / boxes / rooms ) in power ,then blue leds ,should probably be replaced by
(more in numbers) Cool Whites
or Neutral whites ....
There's a loss in efficiency due to phosphor layer light absorption / conversion ,
but with modern thin film type of leds ,those light losses are set to be minimal / detrimental ..


If overall light flux keeps increasing ,then red leds have their turn , to diminish in numbers/power ...
Those red leds ,are to be replaced of High CRI ( Biphosphor / green-red phosphor used ) Warm Whites ,which usually
have a main peak (quite 'flat ' ) ranging from ~620 nm up to ~640nm ,at "Red band"....
Plus that they output ( less than 'Red') amounts of the rest bands ( 'Blue'-'Green' )...
Combined with some Deep red leds (640-670 nm ),can make ....extraordinary combos ...

........
 
I also want to thank Wyte for Sticky........was a long time coming and we needed it.....thanks Bro:)

Your not gonna find an led panel that will effectively flower a 4x4 for under for hundred bucks.....one solar flare will disappoint in that space due to it's design (small/high powered footprint)
Not a problem about the sticky

But about the purchasing. I'm looking to spend the most 400 bux. I was just giving the tents sizes and lights I use now to give a idea of what I want to accomplish when I dish out for leds..
Something that can flower out 6 plants(ill drop a couple) in small containers. That can produce a reasonable amount. To me a reasonable amount would be 1oz per plant in a 2x4 tent. Wheether it 4,5,6 if it can do that ill be okay.

Summer is coming and I will have to hook up a a/c so I need to downgrade power somewhere figure if I can still pull 4-6 zips for the summer ill manage fine.
 

PSUAGRO.

Well-Known Member
Not a problem about the sticky

But about the purchasing. I'm looking to spend the most 400 bux. I was just giving the tents sizes and lights I use now to give a idea of what I want to accomplish when I dish out for leds..
Something that can flower out 6 plants(ill drop a couple) in small containers. That can produce a reasonable amount. To me a reasonable amount would be 1oz per plant in a 2x4 tent. Wheether it 4,5,6 if it can do that ill be okay.

Summer is coming and I will have to hook up a a/c so I need to downgrade power somewhere figure if I can still pull 4-6 zips for the summer ill manage fine.
soil or hydro? I can give you recommendations in that price point
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I Binged that thread and skimmed the first 10 pages and all I came up with pdf wise is the report HoseB is talking about. It's like the Pr0f just took what he wanted from that paper and built a belief system from it, which has been my contention all along with green.

Do we need a green diodes/NWs in there or will CWs or even the interactions of a blue 430nm produce enough green through scattering/attenuation/etc.? I mean I'm of the school you should have some, but how much is the question?
If memory serves me, I posted a few green study links. Keep in mind that we were fed a bunch of crap due to the fact that manufacturing was pretty much focused on making RB diodes, and whites were far behind. Sell em what you got. BS em if you need to

Keep in mind the sun is not made of just PAR peaks, neither is MH, Fluorescent bulbs, Induction bulbs, HPS...

My 3 yo UFO 90 (Bridgelux diodes) is 80:10 R/B. Never got a tight bud until I began suplementing, first with cfls and later led screw bulbs. My last led grow using that combo produced solid nuggz of excellent size for ~ 100w. Comparing one plant to one plant, it rivaled my HOT5 grow Journal on IC'' Those who continue to challenge green are simply too lazy or too resistant to unlearn. I found a number of green studies on my own. Also found the naysayer studies. Had to decide for myself, and put it to the test- the only definitive answer

Peace out on this topic

 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top