i was thinking of getting this compost bin what do us rekon

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
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Transform ALL food waste (including cooked food, meat, fish and cheese) into a super healthy, nutrient rich compost with the help of this small and compact system in your kitchen or laundry - no smells, no flies!

  • Small Shape (18lt); compact for the kitchen or laundry.
  • No smells because friendly safe bacteria are used.
  • Avoids trips to an outdoor composter after every meal (ideal for the elderly or enfeebled).
  • Releases a nutrient rich liquid that can be used as fertiliser
  • Comes with everything you need to get started, including a 500ml bottle of liquid BOKASHI
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
You likely have to bury that in the garden for 2-3 weeks after it is full and let stand for 1-2 weeks. I use pails to accomplish this same feat and am very satisfied. Bokashi is a must have in composting and soil conditioning imo. In my urban garden I have found that I can fill a cheap rolling trash can with some soil, then Bokashi compost, then more soil and worms, I let it stand covered for 2-3 weeks to replicate planting in a garden bed but contained. It works but I have noticed it isn't as effective when mixing the soil and planting in containers. It may have been acidity or overall soil composition want very developed still. I yielded 2oz on a bonsaid plant and an ounce on an auto. Not my best. So, then I mixed the rest of that soil with mushroom compost and chicken manure compost in this run. If I had added perlite or a more substantial amount of perlite I would have had a better soil, but it is performing pretty well. Am satisfied.
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Probably a worm bin, get home depot pails and make fermented kitchen garbage instead of this composter. Worm bins make the best soil amendment and fermented kitchen garbage is a poor mans practice that new business try and capitalize off of. It's really a third world country's best friend. You can make a worm bin with screens and wood or buy a plastic one.

Subs soopersoil works for some people but many members have noted that it lacks and makes little sense in the way he amends with so many powdered quick release fertilizers. Good developed compost, vermicastings, and a hummus rich base soil with adequate drainage will be all you need. You can amend with Bokashi for soil life in addition to the vermicastings which are inherently rich in life and hummus as well. And those will cost you next to nothing. If you're looking to buy your first soil and amend it, you would still be saving a boat load on amendments if you stuck with composts and maybe kelp meal. Blood meal, bat guano, and ash are great and all but not necessary. Bone meal won't do diddly in your first run until but will reapply phosphates in the subsequent ones.

You're in the right direction with composting your kitchen and using worms.
 

iHearAll

Well-Known Member
Oh and, in any case you can cook your soil in the compost bin but you could really cook it in anything. The bigger and more soil, the better
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
so far i think im going 2 get some canna terra pro soil and mix it with wormcastings it seems 2 be the only thing i can source in australia
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
And this worm farm cost under $10 to make :)View attachment 3934056

Harvested castings automatically fell to the bottom with no agitating. Did me great for the first year
im thinking buying one would be best for my situation my plan found this stuff callad rock dust plus im thinking some base soil dolomite lime somthing for airation n worm castings that should be a simple but decent soil
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
It would be good soil, but the secret is to keep it slightly moist and let it age a bit before using it.
This gives the bacteria and fungi a chance to set up shop, break down compost and make it easily bioavailable.

Most importantly, nutes don't bring yields, light does. No nutrients are involved in photosynthesis.
It is simply light, water and CO2. The only nutrient problems you should experience is when your pH levels make some unavailable to the plants. The most common mistakes you will make is over water, overfeed or toast them with lights too close.

I see people do dumb shit with compost, like putting it on top of the soil. Ever left a pile of grass cuttings outdoors for a day or 2?
Noticed how quickly it bleached out and went dry?... well that was your nitrogen that just off-gassed to the atmosphere. put it under the soil if you want the nutrients.
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
Teslas Tips:
You can quadruple rain rinse some sand from the ocean if greensand is unavailable

Collect rotting wood or leaves if wood chip compost is impossible

Same for stinging nettle, comfrey, dandelions, & seaweed, if kelp is unavailable

Crickets, shrimp shells, crab shells if the meals like neem meal / oyster shell / frass or chitin sources are unavailable

Also, I would not use any meat or bread in my worm farm, but that's me. I treat them vegetarian so no hormones or pathogens or antibiotics get in. :). Watch some meat farm documentaries for why, I also avoid all papers and glues personally

IHearAll is a buddy of mine and he's bang on.. All you need is some well amended fungal compost, fresh rich bacterial-dom vermi compost, and some humus rich dirt or essentially compost.... Mix those 3 with some aeration and you are so set.. (lava rock, pumice, rice hulls, rotting wood, or if those re unavailable vermiculite or perlite) I'd say 25% min bit I rock it 45% ideally

By well amended we mean you want a good portion of slow release nutrients and amendments like meals and dusts mellowed in a bit ahead of time .. Generally volcanic or glacial dusts are far superior more clean mineral profiles, and kelp is the one meal I would use over any other.. With good kelp and castings alone you could grow herb, the dusts and fungus will sky rocket your yields though, really llowing the P and K to get extrapolated, while aeration will allow you to water and breathe properly, plus keep the calcium complex rolling.

That said having those 3 composts at hand takes a year or two, if you want help building some soil, I can help you for free, working with what you can all get in AU where the dude to talk to there would be @eastcoastmo another good buddy of mine who knows his stuff

EDIT: there's the unconventional farmer site, Gil, he's a good source for recipes etc too. A simple mix backed by various teas and inoculations the first round could be a good time and easy on the pocket more than one may think, Lactobacillus serum for example very cheap!
Anyways, lots of help here now for you i hope, Hope I was of a bit of service :)
 
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DonTesla

Well-Known Member
iv found this stuff called rock dust plus it says it has every trace element and 60 minerals
There are good and bad rock products, where is it sourced from?

It could be a bad product with a tiny bit of good product added so they can get away with a technicality. Tis the way the world is sometimes, unfortunately, gotta read everything.. Count the chemicals before the calories is the saying, and that's for human food industry so plants is even worse
 

DonTesla

Well-Known Member
im thinking buying one would be best for my situation my plan found this stuff callad rock dust plus im thinking some base soil dolomite lime somthing for airation n worm castings that should be a simple but decent soil
Nothing wrong with starting simple and small, and keeping it separate, and building from there and improving as you go, pragmatically step by step.. Very smart, if you have a little money to get time working on your side :)
 

giglewigle

Well-Known Member
tesla youre a legend mate this means a lot the rock dust i i was gunna get wasent available i im thinking of geting this one there was anouther one that says its scientificly testedhttp://earthlife.com.au/product/garden-mate/
 
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