i need help designing a two in one room. veg and flower

Pumert

Pumert

Well-Known Member
So I was gifted a 1k hps system bulb and ballast and must make use of it because well come on its free! I currently use an 4 foot 8 tube t5 system but only have 4 lights on atm. I was gonna move mothers and clones to an available small closet with more fluorescents. Now the real challenge is dividing and light proofing two sections of my 11 x 10room. Is this even possible?
 
kinddiesel

kinddiesel

Well-Known Member
hit the hydro store . buy that film liner they sell black on one side white on the other . and you can cut it in the middle if needed an they will sell a zipper that glues right to the film so you can have it total dark and walk into the other room and zip up behind your self total investment around 50 bucks don't buy cheap liner. it makes a huge difference buy the thick stuff like this .http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-10-Foot-by-10-Foot-sheet-of-Black-&-White-Poly---6-mil and this .http://www.htgsupply.com/Product-Tarp-Zip-Up and don't for get you can always use duck tape to seal it to the floor and walls or staples . don't feel bad if you use a few rows of tape
 
Pumert

Pumert

Well-Known Member
What do You recommend for the ceiling as I figure that's where most of the tension will be
 
Pumert

Pumert

Well-Known Member
I hope staples will hold the proper weight. Should I make slits near the bottom of the curtain for fresh air exchange? Or will the fan for the hps and a small circulation fan be enough
 
jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
Use industrial strength velcro (not the regular stuff). You can get it at Depot or Lowes. It is VERY sticky and holds for years. Changing to this from duct tape and staples was one of the best moves I ever did (duct tape wears down, even gorilla tape and staples cause tears to start easily). Get creative with the velcro. I've set it up so I can move reflective walls around to make areas smaller, larger, square or rectangular, etc (with panda plastic visqueen and mylar). Just leave the film or plastic piece in place and add sections of the opposite material in spots you want it on the walls/ceiling/floor. I usually put some strips at the bottom and top of my material so I can just roll walls up and attach it at the top, the wall is gone and out of the way while you work, then just roll down when it's time...as easy as it sounds.
 
Pumert

Pumert

Well-Known Member
I know I have more than just procrastinated, but after building the walls I began to light proof the cracks and I haven't taped it to the floor yet. However test runs with my fan actually blows air against the poly film wall creating a pocket which has ripped some tape from the floor off he wall. Should I just gorilla tape everything to the floor or will it make the air poet worse? How do I make an exhaust while still keeping the light proof poly walls?
 
BenFranklin

BenFranklin

Well-Known Member
jcommerce said:
Use industrial strength velcro (not the regular stuff). You can get it at Depot or Lowes. It is VERY sticky and holds for years. Changing to this from duct tape and staples was one of the best moves I ever did (duct tape wears down, even gorilla tape and staples cause tears to start easily). Get creative with the velcro. I've set it up so I can move reflective walls around to make areas smaller, larger, square or rectangular, etc (with panda plastic visqueen and mylar). Just leave the film or plastic piece in place and add sections of the opposite material in spots you want it on the walls/ceiling/floor. I usually put some strips at the bottom and top of my material so I can just roll walls up and attach it at the top, the wall is gone and out of the way while you work, then just roll down when it's time...as easy as it sounds.
Click to expand...

The only problem with that velcro is the sticky melts when it heats up, and it loses it's grip. Obviously depending on how hot it gets in the room.
 
jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
BenFranklin said:
The only problem with that velcro is the sticky melts when it heats up, and it loses it's grip. Obviously depending on how hot it gets in the room.
Click to expand...
Not the industrial grade from Depot. We have it on our fishing boat for rod holders and the surface can get up to 160F, even hotter, and the velcro is solid as a rock. This is the stuff you want: http://www.homedepot.com/p/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-15-ft-x-2-in-Tape-90198/202261920?N=5yc1vZc2dq
Expensive, but it is a lot and will last you a long time. I've found it to be one of the most versatile items in a grow room. We've even used it to secure exhaust ducting to the ceilings and it holds well assuming you use enough strips, spaced evenly. I always cut a barbed piece and furry piece of equal length and connect them, then place the sticky side on whatever you're securing, be it mylar, ducting, etc. etc, then remove the film from the other side and place it where you want to secure it. This way, you have an exact fit of the two pieces of velcro that are lined up perfectly.
 
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jcommerce

jcommerce

Well-Known Member
Pumert said:
Cut a whole in the tarp for ducting?
Click to expand...
If you do cut a hole in the mylar, visqueen, etc., just make a "cross" shaped cut (just two slits, a vertical and horizontal cut at 90 degrees), then you just fold the triangles back. Go conservative at first and see if the ducting will fit in...if not, cut the slits just a bit more at a time until it does. This makes for a snug fit (as opposed to accidentally overdoing it trying to cut a perfect circle). Then gorilla the triangles into place and line the inside of the hole with gorilla tape as well to prevent further tearing of the slits. Voila! (I've done this many times.)
 
Pumert

Pumert

Well-Known Member
Okay so even with my 435cfm fan setup with the exhaust pulling the air out my temps are still too high so I rigged my house ac exhaust with ducting and well before I could find out if it would sufficiently cool the room I ran into the air trying to escape by force of duct tape again. Any designs on how to cut an exhaust slit that won't create a light leak so my walls will stop stretching from the flow of air
 
FrozenChozen

FrozenChozen

Well-Known Member
this one is made by stacking/ double spacing corner flashing or angled plasticlight trap.jpg
this is a little bit easier with a sealable cardboard box and some extra ducting
lighttrap.jpg
 
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