How to Use an Industrial Low Bay Light Fixture?

HOW TO USE AN INDUSTRIAL LOW BAY FIXTURE

The industrial/commercial H.I.D. lighting fixture can be an inexpensive way to light your grow room.
Some people may have purchased one in particular from e-bay. The GENLYTE PP400LXJ-4 power pack a.k.a. CRESCENT LIGHT FIXTURE, therefore for most of this show, ill be using this light as a model. But also showing a few select pictures from different lights. Most of these type fixtures will be similar. This is a 400 watt HPS LOW BAY fixture.





CHAPTER 1
PART 1


THE INPUT VOLTAGE SELECTION
If your light can be wired for different input voltages then it is called multi-tap.



Material needed
1-small wire nut
1-125 volt 15 amp 3 prong male plug
Tools needed
Small Phillips and or small straight blade screwdriver
Straight blade screwdriver
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Utility knife of sharp knife
Gloves
Safty glasses




We will be wiring the light for 120 volts. The power pack assembly consists of the ballast components, ballast housing and the lamp holder (socket). In the top portion of the light is where you can access the wires for the input voltage selection. While handling the light use care not to drop it. Lay the light on its side so the top silver cover is facing up. Remove the 2 screws and the cover. Gently pull the wires out so you can get to the wire connections. You will have to feed the black power cord up inside a little for easier access .




The GENLYTE fixture comes pre-wired for 277 volts. So lets take note of the wire. We have the green ground connected to the case of the light. The white from the cord is connected to the white or common or com. of the light. These 2 connections are good to go, just give the wire nut on the white a little twist to make sure it is tight. The rest of the wires to the light will be the voltage selector. On the side of each of the wires it will be printed the voltage it is. The black is connected to the 277 so we need to unhook it. Find the wire from the light marked 120 and connect it to the black wire from the cord using a wire nut. Use your cutters and cut off the exposed wire on the 277 wire and put a wire nut on the end to protect it.




Now carefully tuck the wires back inside and pulling the cord back out through the hanger. Install the cover with the screws. A longer cord may be needed, just install the way as described above.




PART2
INSTALLING A NEW PLUG

The GENLYTE fixture has a 277 volt plug on the end. Cut off the plug as close as you can. Use a knife and very carefully strip the outer covering off the end of the cable. Take your time, no need to go to the emergency room. wear a glove if needed. I bend the end of the cable over a couple inches and gently cut into the outer covering. Do not force it, as you cut the rubber will snap apart because your bending it sharply. This prevents cutting into the wires. Work it all the way around.


Now cut the wires off to about 1 inch long, this depends on your new plug. Its easier to remove 3 inches of the covering than trying to remove 1 inch. Take your 120 volt plug and take it apart. This is where the small screwdriver is needed.


Strip the ends of the wires about ½ inch. Put the green wire under the green screw and tighten. The white under the silver screw and the black under the gold screw. Put your plug back together. Take care not to crimp the wire to tight when putting the plug back together. I had to shave the plastic down due to my wire is a little to large.







Now hang the fixture by a secure hook (very important) and install a 400 watt hps mogule base bulb. Plug in and test. Whenever working around an HID fixture that does not have a fully enclosed reflector, I wear safety glasses. I have seen bulbs blow and I feel safer using them. I wear them when I am just sitting in there watching the girls grow.




If you have an extension cord that is either 14 gauge or 12 gauge wire, then you can cut off the length you need and replace the whole cord that comes with the GENLYTE fixture. This will also save a step in changing the plug.
I am not going to go into installing the refractor that came with the light at this time because I may not be using it. If anyone needs help with it let me know.

stay tuned still to come chapter 2
a sneak peak we will be making the genlyte ballast remote.

totally cool, can't wait for the next lesson. i see shop lights disappearing nation wide. i've seen those same fixtures sitting in piles. companies go to flouro to save some dollas and the electricians ( or light companies) doing the swaps, really don't know what to do wit em. last time i seen some electrical contractors doing a swap, i dropped a bug in their ear. i also see lighting contractors selling their converted cast-offs on ebay. you can get a decent 400watter for like $115 wit shipping. way to go!!!!!!!!

captain chronizzle said:

totally cool, can't wait for the next lesson. i see shop lights disappearing nation wide. i've seen those same fixtures sitting in piles. companies go to flouro to save some dollas and the electricians ( or light companies) doing the swaps, really don't know what to do wit em. last time i seen some electrical contractors doing a swap, i dropped a bug in their ear. i also see lighting contractors selling their converted cast-offs on ebay. you can get a decent 400watter for like $115 wit shipping. way to go!!!!!!!!

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hey check out my thread on getting one of these fixtures for under 50 bucks including shipping to the states anyway.
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/158466-do-you-need-400w-hps.html

thats a sweet deal! i run digital ballasts for the simple fact that they are really only juicing my powerbill hard the first three minutes of start-up. magnetic ballast would be alright if i was starting out from scratch, due to the cost overall vs. savings. imo someone could have a sweet garden with a very low start-up cost. i also really dig the fact that these lights are being recycled, or put to use, rather than melted down or landfilled.

captain chronizzle said:

thats a sweet deal! i run digital ballasts for the simple fact that they are really only juicing my powerbill hard the first three minutes of start-up. magnetic ballast would be alright if i was starting out from scratch, due to the cost overall vs. savings. imo someone could have a sweet garden with a very low start-up cost. i also really dig the fact that these lights are being recycled, or put to use, rather than melted down or landfilled.

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yes i agree totally. but that sweet deal for the 400w on ebay are brand new lights.

ok so thats how to rewire it
i was hoping for how to pull it apart so that the ballast is outside the grow room but the globe is inside
any suggestions on that one ?

yea you could do that, just cut the socket out, and some wire between the two and voila!

DaveTheNewbie said:

ok so thats how to rewire it
i was hoping for how to pull it apart so that the ballast is outside the grow room but the globe is inside
any suggestions on that one ?

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im working on chapter 2 making the ballast remote. hoping to have it posted by this coming weekend.

Great stuff smoke and coke! I appreciate the work you're putting into this. This is as good of a deal, if not better, then the now defunct 150W e-conolights. I will be making mine remote so keep the tutorials coming.

Schmarmpit said:

Great stuff smoke and coke! I appreciate the work you're putting into this. This is as good of a deal, if not better, then the now defunct 150W e-conolights. I will be making mine remote so keep the tutorials coming.

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why thanks for the appreciation, its my pleasure.
i will do my best. how soon do you plan on using the light? you will probly get it by today or tomorrow. by this weekend i will have chapter 2 done. chapter 3 will be using the socket. i got to make cooltubes yet. so i will do my best to help get you up and running.

Well, I received my football-sized bulbs from Farmtek but the ballast probably won't be here until next week.

how big is your grow room and what kind of film is that on the walls?

chucktownskunk said:

how big is your grow room and what kind of film is that on the walls?

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right now the room is covered with reflectix i got from home depot. ill put a layer of panda film over that soon. ive got about 6- 1/2 foot ceiling at the peak. about 7' x 5-1/2' of floor space. im going to start with 1- 400w then as the room gets filled ill add another 400w. i have to leave room for me to get in there and still be able to water them. i got another small spot to veg in but cant veg too long due to cant have any smell. in my big room smell is no issue and some noise is no issue.

You didn't need gloves and there was no risk of shocking yourself.

You could have done like I do and stripped the wires with your teeth (as long as it wasn't plugged at the time or within 1/2hr before you worked on it) there would be no charge including in any capacitors inside.

Just fyi...

How much was all that stuff you covered the roof with total? I don't think you need to add panda film or anything else, that's enough.

OregonMeds said:

You didn't need gloves and there was no risk of shocking yourself.

You could have done like I do and stripped the wires with your teeth (as long as it wasn't plugged at the time or within 1/2hr before you worked on it) there would be no charge including in any capacitors inside.

Just fyi...

How much was all that stuff you covered the roof with total? I don't think you need to add panda film or anything else, that's enough.

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hi yeah i know i didnt need gloves, lol funny about the shock comment. i know my way around electricity very well. i do not wear gloves to strip wires and i dont even wear gloves if im bugging in a service coming in to a building, most of the times. i always wear safty glasses tho. but for 2 reasons i did wear gloves.
1- didnt want a pic of any part of my body
2- ive seen experienced people cut themselves in good shape so i didnt want a noob getting cut.


you really think that reflectix is good for light. i know it reflects heat. anyway i installed the reflectix to block light and add a heat shield. i already have panda film on a roll. so i dont need the panda film? in the summer heat is a big issue for me, so would the panda film over the reflectix help or just forget about the panda film for now?

it was about 100 bucks to do the whole room with it. i use the room for different things through out the year and during the colder time of the year i wanted some insulation there anyway so thats why i used the reflectix. ive seen peoples grow rooms covered with it, but just thought that the panda film would be more reflective. i have a 250 sqare foot roll of film, maybe ill save it. thanks

CHAPTER 2
MAKING THE BALLAST REMOTE

Of course you can use the light as is, if you have the ceiling height. but I need to deal with heat, so here is how to make the ballast remote. Some fixtures are very easy to remove the socket just by removing 2 screws.



The GENLYTE is a little more complicated, but can easily be done.


Material needed
1- 5 gallon bucket
1- 4” square electrical box
1- 4” square blank cover
1- green ground screw
2- cable ties or tie wraps
1- romex connector
1- 6 inch piece of solid ground wire
Length of 12 AWG. SJO cord (used to go from ballast to socket. Try and keep the length as short as you can)
1- wire nut ( not shown in pic )



Tools needed
Drill
¼” Drill bit
Marker
Needle nose or long nose pliers
Hammer ( I use my lineman pliers )
Utility knife
Wire strippers
Flat blade screwdriver

Start out by placing a 5 gallon bucket right side up on a hard level surface. Place the GENLYTE fixture upside down inside the bucket with the socket facing up. This will keep the light secure while working on it.



In order to remove the socket, first you need to remove the cover the socket is mounted to. Under this cover is where the ballast components are located. Once the light has been powered up, care must be taken when working with the wires for the capacitor due that it can retain a charge. We will be ok with the wires that we need to work with. The screws securing the socket are on the back side of the plate. The transformer inside the ballast is not mounted . It is secured by the plate that will be removed to get to the screws for the socket. Remove the 4 screws holding the socket plate. Lift up the socket and the plate. Do not shift the light around because we do not want the transformer to move. The components inside are from left to right are: the capacitor, transformer, and the ignitor. Notice how the wires route in the channels near the side so they don’t get pinched with the cover.




Take note of the wires you will be unhooking. For the GENLYTE fixture.

From the fixture--------------- From the socket
Com. & X2 ----------------------- WHITE
X1 & RED--------------------------BLACK

Unhook the black wire that goes to the socket and replace the wire nut on the 2 wires for the light.
Unhook the white wire that goes to the socket and replace the wire nut on the 2 wires for the light.

Unscrew the 2 screws holding the socket to the plate. Replace these screws into the socket because you will need these later to mount the socket.




Using a screwdriver and hammer knock out the hole in the plate. Use the needle nose pliers to ream the hole of any sharp edges. I use this hole instead of the center hole, because I don’t like the wires to be between the transformer and the cover plate.



You will need to slide the ignitor over to one side to make the wires long enough to exit the light. Now you want to group the 2 sets of wires that connect to the socket and route them neatly so they will go through the new hole that was made in the socket plate. Install a cable around these wires so that it will be inside the light just below the cover you have removed. Now thread these wires through the new hole and replace the cover. Ensure cover sits properly and its not pinching the wires underneath. Replace the 4 screws for the cover.



These 2 screws are what is used for the refractor. Remove these 2 screws and set aside. you cant see the screw im pointing to but its there.




Measure the distance between the 2 screws. Take the 4” square box and knock out the hole in the back of the box as shown. You will need to drill out the 4” box so that you can mount it the light. When drilling use light pressure on the drill because of the new holes will be next to the preformed holes ( knockouts ) already in the box. The box will not be positioned in the center of the light, but rather off to the side so the wires will enter inside the box. Use the screws you removed and mount the box to the light. And install another cable tie around the wires close to the box. The cable ties will prevent the wires from being pull out or lost up inside the light.



Now take out 1 of the small knockouts and install the romex connector. Take the length of wire being used for the socket and strip the end like you did to change the plug except strip off about 6 inches of outer covering. Put the wires inside the 4” box and tighten the connector just untill its snug and will prevent the cable from pulling out. CAUTION over tightening of the connector will cause the wire to short out.
install the solid ground wire to the ground screw of the box. solid wire stays under the screw better than stranded wire or use a crimp connector.
connect the green wire to the ground wire with a wire nut.
connect the white wire to the com and x2.
connect the black wire to x1 and red.
install the 4" blank cover and hang your remote ballast.






Try and keep the cord from the ballast to the bulb as short as you can to reduce the voltage drop and the light will run more efficient. But you want it long enough so you can adjust the height of the bulb.
I use a ground wire because I intend on grounding any metal parts of the reflector and socket hanger. I advise the use of a ground wire for personal safety.


i will be working on different ways to hang the socket with different reflectors and or cooltubes. so stay tuned for chapter 3

You could have done like I do and stripped the wires with your teeth

sorry to be a dik, but using ur teeth to strip wire? do you chew through the casing as well? hate to see ur plumbing, or how you cut wood(probably just smash it with an ax). sounds like the move of a hack, or bonifide red-neck! god only gave me one set of teeth, i'd prefer to use them to eat. for ten dollars i can get a pair of wirestrippers, break em then go buy another, all day, over and over. pretty sure teeth only grow once. great advice from someone that boasts to be a pro. i think if ur trying to give advice, and claim to be a pro, u should act like a pro. sorry smoke n coke, just had to set it straight. waiting patiently for the next lesson.

captain chronizzle said:

You could have done like I do and stripped the wires with your teeth

sorry to be a dik, but using ur teeth to strip wire? do you chew through the casing as well? hate to see ur plumbing, or how you cut wood(probably just smash it with an ax). sounds like the move of a hack, or bonifide red-neck! god only gave me one set of teeth, i'd prefer to use them to eat. for ten dollars i can get a pair of wirestrippers, break em then go buy another, all day, over and over. pretty sure teeth only grow once. great advice from someone that boasts to be a pro. i think if ur trying to give advice, and claim to be a pro, u should act like a pro. sorry smoke n coke, just had to set it straight. waiting patiently for the next lesson.

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lol its all good. i have a few pairs of wire strippers. i use a utility knife for larger size wires.
beleive it or not i have used my teeth. but only on 22 and 24 awg wires like for a phone line or cat 5 cable and thats because my wire strippers dont go down that small.
i dont use my teeth anymore on the cat 5 cable, now i take my lighter and heat up the end just enough that you pull off the insulation with your fingers. got to be careful not to heat to much or it burns your fingers.

Excellent write-up . I will be purchasing one of those lights come next auction. Thank You

JerkMaine said:

Excellent write-up . I will be purchasing one of those lights come next auction. Thank You

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Me Too Great Write-up