How do i get solid heavy buds ?

Problem is this guys gonna spend forever composting,turning, ect..... And that not really going to make your nugs "harder" persay....in this aspect, genetics are going to be what does the most for you, but it IS ultimately up to you to bring out the best in your plants & bring them to theyre genetic potential, & a good soil will definately be a good start to get them there... But really you just need optimal climate, regular balanced feedings & id also use a finisher of some sort...

MustangStudFarm said:

Espoma plant food is what I was getting off of. If you are interested in composting, you can just add your amendments into it. I was using "down to earth" products after I got off of Espoma... This will get you really damn close. I think that I mostly had to add rock powder like basalt and soft rock phosphate... It would be best to source the ingredients individually so that you know exactly how much of everything being used, but that can be a hassel at first and I used this to get by until I had a better understanding. This stuff is much better than Espoma and super soil, I used Espoma because it was close to TGA's recipe, but I found full compost to work best. That and subbing blood/bone meal with fish/fish bone meal.

http://downtoearthfertilizer.com/products/blended_fertilizer/bio-live-5-4-2/

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so this is ready mixed organic food ? do you have to leave it to cook ? if that's the right word ... cook. leave for a few month till it's edible for the plant.

i make my own coffee grind compost atm, coffee grind, really composted down food stuff from the kitchen and it's fed my chillie plants all summer. it needs ph'ing tho, but the natural compost seems to do that anyways. It's a good free food i'v not tried it on cannabis yet.





So does that need cooking ? ^^

Everyone's saying genetics, so there must be a number one strain for hard heavy solid nugs no ?


I think the aspirin myths just harden not put on weight .... a bit like my dick, but that's another story

forgive him father for he know not what he do..
its just an avi to the gentile

Lacedwitgame said:

Problem is this guys gonna spend forever composting,turning, ect..... And that not really going to make your nugs "harder" persay....in this aspect, genetics are going to be what does the most for you, but it IS ultimately up to you to bring out the best in your plants & bring them to theyre genetic potential, & a good soil will definately be a good start to get them there... But really you just need optimal climate, regular balanced feedings & id also use a finisher of some sort...

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Skip the finisher unless you enjoy wasting money! Flushing is something organic growers don't have to do. And it's something synthetic growers can do without a flushing product.

And composting only take two or three months...three weeks if you're making a traditional bacterial heavy compost. Start it when you start your next round and it'll be ready when you're ready to start your next round.

Flushing is something organi gardners dont have to do.

There are different levels to organic gardening....
From using organic based bottled nutes to the straight up cult of popcorn teas...
Depending on what you use.......id still go with a week flush.

As far as the finisher goes....we'll see...... Im running the exact strain side by side...... One with it.... One without it. Well see how it goes & ill return with feedback.

qwizoking said:

forgive him father for he know not what he do..
its just an avi to the gentile

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i'v no idea what you just said.

primabudda said:

Everyone's saying genetics, so there must be a number one strain for hard heavy solid nugs no ?


I think the aspirin myths just harden not put on weight .... a bit like my dick, but that's another story

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Headband 818 from Cali Connection is the hard bud king in my growrooms. My LA Pure Kush is up there too but it's a cutting from California, not from a seed bank.

primabudda said:

Everyone's saying genetics, so there must be a number one strain for hard heavy solid nugs no ?

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Yes, genetics help. It really looks like you dont know how to mix your soil yet and I def would not over look that aspect. If you are looking for a mix that will "cook" faster, you could look into Cootz mix. It only has to sit for 2 weeks before using. The whole idea behind this mix is that Cootz claims that phosphates are hard on the microbe population, so he uses a mix that is light on P.


The price of the ammendments is not bad considering that you can buy the cheap peat moss from Lowes or home depot. Mix this to 1/3 peat moss, 1/3 compost/vermicompost, and 1/3 aeration then you let it sit for 2 weeks.

http://buildasoil.com/collections/amendments/products/the-clackamas-kit

Here is a section that explains how to mix the soil. It is very informative and you should really check it out. Look under the videos for the soil mixing explination. Hell, read the whole blog section, its great stuff and they even have the Adam fucking Dunn show. He is the breeder for T.H Seeds.


http://buildasoil.com/blogs/news?page=2

Lacedwitgame said:

Problem is this guys gonna spend forever composting,turning, ect..... And that not really going to make your nugs "harder" persay

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Man, you do know that your in the organic section! Why would you try to discourage someone from pursuing organic methods? I use rabbit manure and I barley have to pay for anything!!! Leaves, grass clippings, rabbit manure, and some minerals like kelp or rock dust. I spent $15 on kelp to recycle my Bio-Live soil, 300gallons.

Anyways, I thought that I would show my little spot for composting. My neighbor had a bunch of plastic pallets, so I made a worm bin out of it. Under the blue tarp is the amended compost and black composter in front of it is kind of like a "staging" area for the next round of compost, it gets a good start this way and cuts down the time it takes for leaves to break down. Also, I have a wood chipper that I run the leaves through. The cost of a grow cycle went down and the yield and quality went up.



The compost pile looks small but dont let it fool you. There was over 300 gallons. I had to use every container that I could find!

Coco, earthworm castings, compost, perilite, manures, meals, rock dusts/minerals, bennies. In that order from greatest to least. Aerated tea once a week works pretty damn good for soil.

I found a listing on Craislist for free rabbit manure, right. It turned out to be an old man with 160 rabbits. He was paying kids to shovel the manure, but they stopped showing up. So, I got a trailer full of rabbit manure for FREE... It filled my bins and I had to make a pile on the ground with the excess.

Rasta Roy said:

I'm using cow manure for the first time in my personal garden right now. I did a test this spring with my tomatoes outside and it went well so now I'm doing it with my medical garden indoors. Im doing a mix of my recycled soil (which was peat moss/compost/perlite), my first round of homemade compost, homemade worm castings, and cow manure. For amendments I just added Oyster Shell Flour for extra calcium (makes for stronger stalks!) and as a ph buffer. Along with granular humic acid (for chelation of nutrients, better nutrient uptake).

I'll alternate between doing worm teas, alfalfa and kelp teas, and plain waterings.

Im only in veg now, just freshly potted into 10 and 7 gallon smart pots. All good so far!

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I love the stuff, it's THE best for a slow release of nitrogen, and the cool thing about it, is it doubles as humus, as it continues to compost in the soil it turns into essentially pure humus
AND you can add a LOT of manure and it doesn't lock out of cause nitrogen toxicity.
I know of some hippies that use 1/4 of their entire mix as compost steer manure.
1/4!

side note, if you are using your own compost, you don't need any humic acid, you got pleeeenty

ganga gurl420 said:

Btw guys... I added the nutes because I'm using composted manure only. It's not enough on its own to give healthy plants and yields. At least cow manure is running about a .5/.5/.5 . This yr amending the manure I am growing the biggest plants I have ever had with stocks bigger then a wine bottle.
I would love to make my own compost one day and mix into the manure but for now til I own my own property espoma is going to have to do.

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I know guys that grow in ONLY steer manure, rock dust, and kelp meal.

outside, manure is almost crucial.

Lacedwitgame said:

Problem is this guys gonna spend forever composting,turning, ect..... And that not really going to make your nugs "harder" persay....in this aspect, genetics are going to be what does the most for you, but it IS ultimately up to you to bring out the best in your plants & bring them to theyre genetic potential, & a good soil will definately be a good start to get them there... But really you just need optimal climate, regular balanced feedings & id also use a finisher of some sort...

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if by forever you mean 3 months.
and I have a shitty back, and turning isn't that hard.
shit i'd do both of those six days a week and twice on sundays before having to muck around with PH, PPM, calmag, etc.
but it's all preference.
and a "finisher" isn't needed at all, not in the slightest.

ok guys, think i got enough info here to swell the earth, let alone the nugs.


Anyone know the sciencey bit in a calyx ? and why they swell ? whats actually swelling and putting on weight ? i'v come to see gods lovely earth is natural but weird and full of energy ..... so the sciencey bit, light spec etc etc would be nice to learn.


imma google it in the meantime.


and to answer above @greasemonkeymann ^^, no i'm not too clued up on compost, but i no what and what not to do is all, i understand our friends the bennies very important tho. that i do know, i also know this weed imma smowkin right now is good, so there's that that i understand .... women not too much.

primabudda said:

women not too much.

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show me a man that understands women, and i'll show you how to make gold from paper

greasemonkeymann said:

the cool thing about it, is it doubles as humus, as it continues to compost in the soil it turns into essentially pure humus

side note, if you are using your own compost, you don't need any humic acid, you got pleeeenty

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That's exactly why I wanted to use it, as a humus source. I also heard from a local vegetable gardener (and this might just be old hippie science) that composted cow manure has a lot of beneficial bacteria and microorganisms that arent in traditional compost because of the cows multiple stomachs.

Humic acid is definitely something I'm phasing out but I bought wholesale from an agriculture supplier over a year ago before I was making everything on my own. I have like a three year stockpile I'm slowly working my way through. Definitely probably a little redundant but I have hopes that it helps.

Rasta Roy said:

Skip the finisher unless you enjoy wasting money! Flushing is something organic growers don't have to do. And it's something synthetic growers can do without a flushing product.

And composting only take two or three months...three weeks if you're making a traditional bacterial heavy compost. Start it when you start your next round and it'll be ready when you're ready to start your next round.

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"flushing" is just starving the plant so it uses up what it has stored plus no fertilizer.

Im not discouraging organics at all....i believe organic is the best way to go... However, im not familiar with dudes garden size. If your doing more than a few yards.....go nuts....lol, if you own a tractor or a few tumblers than by all means go that route. I personally prefer a good organic soil base, combined with ACT's & organic bottled nutes (earth juice, ect).....

But......i will say there are also synthetic nutrients out there that are super simple & are fairly mild....max sea being one of them. Im going against my usual grain this year & running that...... I may regret it, i may not. Im just saying find something something well rounded & do what you can within your means to bring out the most in your plants.

Oh yeah & i am running a side by side with a finisher vs no finisher, ill bet my left nut the finisher will show to serve its purpose.
Well see....ill post pic results here....