Help With My RDWC Setup!!! Tips, Advice, Suggestions, Critiques, & Questions Welcome!

chadster152

chadster152

Well-Known Member
Alright so the purpose of this post is to get some feedback on how i plan to setup my RDWC system. Any tips, advice, changes, suggestions, and questions are welcome and appreciated.

RDWC Setup.jpg
***Sorry for the crappy drawing, i just scribbled it out during my lunch break.***

Equipment List (I have not bought anything yet)
  • 1 - 18 Gallon tote for Reservoir
  • 4 - 5 Gallon Buckets
  • 4 - 6" Net Pot Bucket Lids
  • 4 - 4" Hydrofarm Active Aqua Air Stones
  • 1 - Danner Pondmaster 350GPH Water Pump
  • 1 - Hydrofarm 25LPM Air Pump
  • 1" PVC Pipe & Fittings for Waterfall
  • 2" PVC Pipe, Fittings, Valve, etc.
  • 3/16th-Inch Air Lines
  • Uni-seals (for everything entering/exiting the res/buckets)

Is my air pump large enough to power four 4" air stones? Is my water pump large enough to get good re-circulation without flooding? Where do you buy uni-seals? Anything else that should be modified/changed in my system?

I plan on having the water pump and reservoir (and possibly the air pump) outside of my 4'x4' tent to keep clutter and temps down.

Thanks for looking,

Chadster152bongsmilie

​
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
Nice looking plans, I would definitely upsize the airpump. I'm moving towards one GH dual diaphragm pump for each 5gal bucket. Right now I only have 2(and an 8site rdwc), and have my other 6 buckets split between a 110lpm pump. That's almost as much per bucket as you plan to split 4 ways. It'll be enough, but not necessarily optimal. And yes, outside the grow area is definitely better. Helps run colder air through the water, keeping temps down. Another reason to go with the dual diaphragm pumps, no heat.

The water pump should be fine, set it on an interval timer if it floods. My 950gph pump will barely overflow my res if it runs constantly, and I'm not even running a real undercurrent, it's all 1/2" tubing so very little flow. I just use the pump to make sure the solution stays circulated, not necessarily with a current. Soon though....very soon.

Buy uni-seals online, haven't been able to find anything above 1" in my local stores.

What kind of nutrients do you plan on using? Lighting? Chiller size?
 
redi jedi

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
Everything looks good, I would use a slightly larger airpump, like 40-50lpm.

You can run the water pump 24/7. It cant flood as your only circulating the water not adding water. Trust me I run a DIY undercurrent thats identical to your drawing except mine has 8 sites. I use the same size water pump. Which reminds me, you only need 1/2" suction line. The pump will have 1/2" fittings.

I got my uni-seals from Fish Farm Supply, there in Ontario but will ship anywhere. They also carry PVC fittings that most building supply places dont carry. Like the 2" x 1\2"NPT x 2" tee your gonna need for the return manifold.
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
redi jedi said:
Everything looks good, I would use a slightly larger airpump, like 40-50lpm.

You can run the water pump 24/7. It cant flood as your only circulating the water not adding water. Trust me I run a DIY undercurrent thats identical to your drawing except mine has 8 sites. I use the same size water pump. Which reminds me, you only need 1/2" suction line. The pump will have 1/2" fittings.
Click to expand...
Not to argue semantics but water pumps can very easily flood an undercurrent without adding water. If the active flow rate of the pump is higher than the passive flow rate out of the res, it will inevitably fill, and eventually overfill.
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
redi jedi said:
Your right, thats why theres 2" feed lines (connecting the sites and control tote)
Click to expand...
There's some guys that have had issues with 3" pvc, especially once roots get in there. Not saying a 350gph, 950gph, or even 1800gph may be the pump that does it, but its a possibility. Low water level in the end buckets is a more common problem than flooding anyway(severe enough and its gonna back up enough to flood though), just giving a piece of advice that has worked for me in response to the specific question he had. Wasn't saying he would have a problem, just that there's an easy solution if there is one.
 
redi jedi

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
If the roots block the feed lines then the pump will run dry, because theres no water in the return manifold.

In other words, as the passive flow rate is reduced by blockage, than the active flow rate is also reduced, does that make sense?
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
And all the water that would have been filling that manifold and the last buckets still has to be somewhere, right? If it's all backed up in the res or first sites, that's likely more volume than it can hold, unless the system is massively oversized/underfilled.
 
redi jedi

redi jedi

Well-Known Member
Well if the feed lines where completely blocked so that no water could flow at all, then yes there could be some spillage.

Whats more likely is that water could not travel from the res to the sites fast enough to supply the pump.
 
chadster152

chadster152

Well-Known Member
mike91sr said:
Nice looking plans, I would definitely upsize the airpump. I'm moving towards one GH dual diaphragm pump for each 5gal bucket. Right now I only have 2(and an 8site rdwc), and have my other 6 buckets split between a 110lpm pump. That's almost as much per bucket as you plan to split 4 ways. It'll be enough, but not necessarily optimal. And yes, outside the grow area is definitely better. Helps run colder air through the water, keeping temps down. Another reason to go with the dual diaphragm pumps, no heat.
Click to expand...
OK, I think i will go with two 20LPM GH Dual Diaphragm pumps, so that will be 10LPM to each bucket...and i will probably buy another 2 when i have more money so i can get 20LPM going to each bucket....Thanks for the info.

mike91sr said:
The water pump should be fine, set it on an interval timer if it floods. My 950gph pump will barely overflow my res if it runs constantly, and I'm not even running a real undercurrent, it's all 1/2" tubing so very little flow. I just use the pump to make sure the solution stays circulated, not necessarily with a current. Soon though....very soon.
Click to expand...
I don't think it will flood, but i just wanted to get a second opinion. I plan to have it running all the time (unless flooding occurs...then it'll be on a timer like you suggested) so i can get a true undercurrent going. Good luck on your UC setup.

mike91sr said:
Buy uni-seals online, haven't been able to find anything above 1" in my local stores.
Click to expand...
Ok...any sites you recommend?

mike91sr said:
What kind of nutrients do you plan on using? Lighting? Chiller size?
Click to expand...
I plan on using Dyna-Gro Foliage-Pro (or just grow, whichever my local hydro shop has in stock), Dyna-Gro Mag-Pro, Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, and Botanicare Aquashield during Veg...and Dyna-Gro Bloom, Dyna-Gro Mag-Pro, Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, and Botanicare Aquashield during flower.

I will be running 1 600w Air-cooled MH/HPS for Veg/Bloom

As for a chiller, i was thinking of just putting two 2 liter bottles (filled with frozen water) into the res, and swapping them at the start of every light cycle, as i will be running 18/6 and 12/12. I don't have the cash for a chiller at the moment, so i just gotta do it ghetto style till i have extra cash.

Chadster152
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
chadster152 said:
OK, I think i will go with two 20LPM GH Dual Diaphragm pumps, so that will be 10LPM to each bucket...and i will probably buy another 2 when i have more money so i can get 20LPM going to each bucket....Thanks for the info.



I don't think it will flood, but i just wanted to get a second opinion. I plan to have it running all the time (unless flooding occurs...then it'll be on a timer like you suggested) so i can get a true undercurrent going. Good luck on your UC setup.



Ok...any sites you recommend?



I plan on using Dyna-Gro Foliage-Pro (or just grow, whichever my local hydro shop has in stock), Dyna-Gro Mag-Pro, Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, and Botanicare Aquashield during Veg...and Dyna-Gro Bloom, Dyna-Gro Mag-Pro, Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt, and Botanicare Aquashield during flower.

I will be running 1 600w Air-cooled MH/HPS for Veg/Bloom

As for a chiller, i was thinking of just putting two 2 liter bottles (filled with frozen water) into the res, and swapping them at the start of every light cycle, as i will be running 18/6 and 12/12. I don't have the cash for a chiller at the moment, so i just gotta do it ghetto style till i have extra cash.

Chadster152
Click to expand...
You'll be happy with 2 of those pumps, should still be plenty considering the turbulence of an uc.

And yea, I wouldnt imagine youd have any issues, just thought I'd throw it out there incase you do.

http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/829/Uniseals

Good choice IMO, DG grower here. Did some reading and asking around on other forums, seems that DG is one of only a few lines that doesn't precipitate under the agitation of an undercurrent system. Just curious, any reason you want to use the mag-pro in veg? I've started using it as a late bloom booster, as most annuals benefit from higher mag vs cal later on. DG has all the cal/mag you need otherwise.

You should be ok doing the ice bottles, but if youre interested in saving some coin when you do get a chiller look into using a modified dehumidifier. Bend the cooling coil right into your res, it gets super cold to condense air and pull the moisture out. It will freeze your res solid if you leave it on, so work out the timing and viola! Smaller system under 600w, youd be fine with a small unit that runs waay more efficiently than any chiller which will either have problems from salt build-ups, or require another external cooling res and a water pump/wort chiller to cool your nutrient res. Food for thought.

the farm is a good place to get a ton of undercurrent info from some real pros and a couple reps from a manufacturer.
 
chadster152

chadster152

Well-Known Member
redi jedi said:
Everything looks good, I would use a slightly larger airpump, like 40-50lpm.

You can run the water pump 24/7. It cant flood as your only circulating the water not adding water. Trust me I run a DIY undercurrent thats identical to your drawing except mine has 8 sites. I use the same size water pump. Which reminds me, you only need 1/2" suction line. The pump will have 1/2" fittings.

I got my uni-seals from Fish Farm Supply, there in Ontario but will ship anywhere. They also carry PVC fittings that most building supply places dont carry. Like the 2" x 1\2"NPT x 2" tee your gonna need for the return manifold.
Click to expand...
Ya im gonna go with two 20LPM air pumps.

Thanks for the tip on the 1/2" suction line.

I will definitely check out Fish Farm Supply...do they have a website? I'm in the US so im gonna try to find a closer store but i appreciate the info.

Chadster152
 
chadster152

chadster152

Well-Known Member
mike91sr said:
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/829/Uniseals
Click to expand...
Sweet thanks for the link.

mike91sr said:
Good choice IMO, DG grower here. Did some reading and asking around on other forums, seems that DG is one of only a few lines that doesn't precipitate under the agitation of an undercurrent system. Just curious, any reason you want to use the mag-pro in veg? I've started using it as a late bloom booster, as most annuals benefit from higher mag vs cal later on. DG has all the cal/mag you need otherwise.
Click to expand...
That's awesome I didn't even think of that, but I'm glad it holds up under the agitation. I was under the impression that a plant would benefit from Cal/Mag in veg if you use RO water, and depending on how hard my water is, i was gonna use it accordingly, but i just searched through homebrewer's Dyna-Gro threads and saw that the nute schedule doesn't call for Mag-Pro in veg, so ill probably save it just for flower. Thanks for the heads-up. +rep.

mike91sr said:
You should be ok doing the ice bottles, but if youre interested in saving some coin when you do get a chiller look into using a modified dehumidifier. Bend the cooling coil right into your res, it gets super cold to condense air and pull the moisture out. It will freeze your res solid if you leave it on, so work out the timing and viola! Smaller system under 600w, youd be fine with a small unit that runs waay more efficiently than any chiller which will either have problems from salt build-ups, or require another external cooling res and a water pump/wort chiller to cool your nutrient res. Food for thought.
Click to expand...
Ya I'm probably gonna stick with the ice bottles for the first 2 harvests because i would like to set up a mother/clone tent as well as a veg tent, so that is first on my list of improvements, but the modified dehumidifier trick sounds interesting...are there any threads on here about it you can point me towards?

mike91sr said:
the farm is a good place to get a ton of undercurrent info from some real pros and a couple reps from a manufacturer.
Click to expand...
The farm? are you referring to Fish Farm Supply in Ontario that redi jedi suggested?
 
chadster152

chadster152

Well-Known Member
mike91sr said:
https://www.rollitup.org/grow-room-design-setup/453857-cheap-effective-diy-water-chiller.html

thc farmer, another board. More professionals and less hobbyists than this site, so typically better info from what I've seen. And an undercurrent section worth spending some hours in.
Click to expand...
The design seems pretty legit...but it would cause fluctuations in the water temps from 65-70 pretty often...think that would cause any problems?

I'll definitely check it out, thanks for the heads-up.
 
mike91sr

mike91sr

Well-Known Member
Run it on short enough intervals and that won't happen. And if you're running the coil right in your system res and not an external with a wort chiller, you'll have a pretty large volume to cool so it won't change as quickly. But yes, you would generally want to avoid drastic temp fluctuations.
 
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